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Bilstein 5100

tank3011570

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Does anyone drive 2WD and have 5100 on? Does it give you the amount of lift that it says, or more gain for 2WD truck? My 2WD truck needs 2”, not sure what to do,#5 or #6?
 

Flemminr

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Ran the ReadyLift 3.5 on my 1500 for the past year or so and was generally pleased with it, but wanted an upgrade. Ordered 5100's for the front and rear. Pulled the pre-load spacer in the front and set the 5100's at position #5. Went in sitting at 40" from the ground to the fender and came out sitting at 40" 1/8. The ride is just ever so slightly more stiff, but it is way more controlled. Very pleased with the upgrade!
 

wpm1960

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Does anyone drive 2WD and have 5100 on? Does it give you the amount of lift that it says, or more gain for 2WD truck? My 2WD truck needs 2”, not sure what to do,#5 or #6?
I am in the same situation. Getting 5100's put on my 2WD truck tomorrow. My rake is almost 2.5 inches so #6 would make sense to get close to level. Reading these posts most everyone is using #5 ORP or not. I would say at 2" of rake stick to #5 since #6 is supposed to give 2.2" of lift and would put you nose high. I still haven't decided #5 or #6 but will let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

Installed 5100's on #6 yesterday. My rake before was 2.5" and is now about 1\4" so I got almost exactly what Bilstein said I would on #6. Now looking at tires for stock wheels. Had the shop show me some Nitto Terra Grapplers in 275/60 R20 and like the look of the tire, plus they are made right down the road from me. Don't want a 10 ply but am afraid this tire may still look too small for the new lift.
 

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JF19Longhorn

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Got my 5100's a week or so ago and am hoping to put them on later this week. (been really busy lately)

I have the ORP and tow a decent sized enclosed trailer (5-8k loaded - with a WDH), so I'm leaning towards #2 or maybe #3. I'm going to take some measurements to see how much rake I have and go from there.

I'll post pictures once I'm finished.
 

neeginan

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I don't know much about alignments on these trucks. I would align my cars back in the day by the old tape measure in the driveway method.

If you add the 5100's on setting #5 in the front like a lot of folks here have done, are the alignment specifications the same? Or would a new set of alignment specs be required? Reason I ask is because I am getting the alignment done and I want to know if they need to use stock specs or adjust for the level/lift. Thanks in advance.
 

swaldrum

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I am in the same situation. Getting 5100's put on my 2WD truck tomorrow. My rake is almost 2.5 inches so #6 would make sense to get close to level. Reading these posts most everyone is using #5 ORP or not. I would say at 2" of rake stick to #5 since #6 is supposed to give 2.2" of lift and would put you nose high. I still haven't decided #5 or #6 but will let you know how it turns out tomorrow.
I just had my truck come back from being levelled (bilsteins). To give a little info for folks with Canopy's/Toppers like me. After the canopy (~200lbs) went on the rear squatted almost 1/2".
With the Bilsteins set on #5 my truck is exactly level if measuring from the ground to the fenders. It would have around 1/2" of rake without the canopy.
 

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troymi

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Anyone have to re-aim the headlights after adding the 5100s on front? I drove in some pretty dark areas and the lights seemed up, and the high beams even more so. Then I got the occasional flash not in a good way.

I didn't search yet, but curious what others are doing if anything.
 

CJR28

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Anyone have to re-aim the headlights after adding the 5100s on front? I drove in some pretty dark areas and the lights seemed up, and the high beams even more so. Then I got the occasional flash not in a good way.

I didn't search yet, but curious what others are doing if anything.
Ive gotten that same “flash” from on-coming drivers. I found that my lights work better now and i can see a bit more.
 

ZonaRam44

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For reference
 

NorthernArea51

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For reference

Solid info...thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

brian42

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Anyone have to re-aim the headlights after adding the 5100s on front? I drove in some pretty dark areas and the lights seemed up, and the high beams even more so. Then I got the occasional flash not in a good way.

I didn't search yet, but curious what others are doing if anything.
If you raise or lower the truck you should have them adjusted. Not only for proper angles but to make sure you are getting the correct light pattern but to avoid blinding oncoming traffic.

Ive gotten that same “flash” from on-coming drivers. I found that my lights work better now and i can see a bit more.
Better or not you've raised the cut-off and are blinding oncoming drivers with your low beams.

I'm sure I'm in the minority but many vehicles here have eBay bulbs in the stock housings that are brighter than high beams or are lifted/leveled without adjusting the headlights (or both). I feel like I need to wear sunglasses at night to prevent retinal damage.

When I eventually install 5100s my first stop is going to be the alignment shop and the second one is going to be the dealership to have my headlights adjusted (if I don't do it myself).

Just my crotchety old guy 2¢. ;)
 

Bigdumps

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Alright, after lighting these boards up with questions and proposed setups, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered my set up!
Hopefully you guys can tell me if I should change/missed anything.
2020 Black Ram Sport every option, non orp with 22's(keeping factory rims after lift)
Goal is 3.5" lift, .5inch of rake and as close to OEM smooth ride quality as I can get. I understand tires make a big part of that.
Truck currently measures just 2 1/4" of rake.
Ordered
2" Readylift spacers with UCA's
Bilstein 5100s adjust strut and shock packages
Planning on running them on #4/5 setting and getting 1 more inch high in the rear.
Plan on running Toyo AT 3's 295/55/22

My CTE math calculated this should raise the truck roughly 5 inches with the added sidewall height.

What should I expect via ride quality? Should I get a sway bar? Will the bigger tires rub on the factory 22's?(increase 2.7" overall diameter)
Any issues or part swaps I should to? (Mopar UCA's instead of readylift, moto 2.5 spacer to run a lower Bilstein setting etc)
With the time of year, don't plan on having everything installed until the At3 is released in Canada. So I got time to get this right.
 

ksn240

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Alright, after lighting these boards up with questions and proposed setups, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered my set up!
Hopefully you guys can tell me if I should change/missed anything.
2020 Black Ram Sport every option, non orp with 22's(keeping factory rims after lift)
Goal is 3.5" lift, .5inch of rake and as close to OEM smooth ride quality as I can get. I understand tires make a big part of that.
Truck currently measures just 2 1/4" of rake.
Ordered
2" Readylift spacers with UCA's
Bilstein 5100s adjust strut and shock packages
Planning on running them on #4/5 setting and getting 1 more inch high in the rear.
Plan on running Toyo AT 3's 295/55/22

My CTE math calculated this should raise the truck roughly 5 inches with the added sidewall height.

What should I expect via ride quality? Should I get a sway bar? Will the bigger tires rub on the factory 22's?(increase 2.7" overall diameter)
Any issues or part swaps I should to? (Mopar UCA's instead of readylift, moto 2.5 spacer to run a lower Bilstein setting etc)
With the time of year, don't plan on having everything installed until the At3 is released in Canada. So I got time to get this right.
Sounds like a good setup. Readylift UCAs are top notch and much better than the Mopar for your amount of lift. I would recommend the Hellwig sway bar as it makes a huge difference, even when keeping everything stock. Much bigger difference when lifted.
 

Bigdumps

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Sounds like a good setup. Readylift UCAs are top notch and much better than the Mopar for your amount of lift. I would recommend the Hellwig sway bar as it makes a huge difference, even when keeping everything stock. Much bigger difference when lifted.
Thanks, I will find a sway bar for the 2-4" lift
I should mention I only have the 3.21 gears are those tires to big? Heard over 33" may cause increased wear and tear, will that be a significant mileage loss with the lift and tire size
 

ksn240

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Thanks, I will find a sway bar for the 2-4" lift
I should mention I only have the 3.21 gears are those tires to big? Heard over 33" may cause increased wear and tear, will that be a significant mileage loss with the lift and tire size
I've got 35s with 3.21s. There is some power loss but there is still plenty of power left. It does gear hunt a little bit on the highway. I will say that I do have a Pedal Commander and it makes a huge difference. My mpg did take a hit though. I average 12-13 but I have a lead foot. On the highway I still get about 15 and that's going 80 mph.
 

jjhall8

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Alright, after lighting these boards up with questions and proposed setups, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered my set up!
Hopefully you guys can tell me if I should change/missed anything.
2020 Black Ram Sport every option, non orp with 22's(keeping factory rims after lift)
Goal is 3.5" lift, .5inch of rake and as close to OEM smooth ride quality as I can get. I understand tires make a big part of that.
Truck currently measures just 2 1/4" of rake.
Ordered
2" Readylift spacers with UCA's
Bilstein 5100s adjust strut and shock packages
Planning on running them on #4/5 setting and getting 1 more inch high in the rear.
Plan on running Toyo AT 3's 295/55/22

My CTE math calculated this should raise the truck roughly 5 inches with the added sidewall height.

What should I expect via ride quality? Should I get a sway bar? Will the bigger tires rub on the factory 22's?(increase 2.7" overall diameter)
Any issues or part swaps I should to? (Mopar UCA's instead of readylift, moto 2.5 spacer to run a lower Bilstein setting etc)
With the time of year, don't plan on having everything installed until the At3 is released in Canada. So I got time to get this right.
How are you planning on lifting the rear? The 5100's will not provide any lift for the rear.
 

My_first_RAM

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Can you post some pictures of the top of your truck since you switched the fin? I’ve been looking at options to remove the extra inches so it fits in my garage. How much of an effort was it to switch out? Thanks!
 

AK11

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Have a 2019 1500 with ORP and trying to decide between the Mopar 2” lift and Bilstein 5100’s in front and back. The Mopar lift will add 2” to the already existing 1” from ORP from what I understand so it’ll be 3” total and I was hoping to top out around 2.5” but I guess the additional .5 won’t be that big of a difference. If I went the Bilstein route I would probably set it to 1-1.5” and call it good for a total of 2-2.5”. If I did go with the 5100’s would I need to replace UCA’s at that point? This is the only real hangup I’m having.
Also will the 5100 rears add any height in the back? I’d like to keep at least some of the rake. Thanks!
 

Truckguy

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Have a 2019 1500 with ORP and trying to decide between the Mopar 2” lift and Bilstein 5100’s in front and back. The Mopar lift will add 2” to the already existing 1” from ORP from what I understand so it’ll be 3” total and I was hoping to top out around 2.5” but I guess the additional .5 won’t be that big of a difference. If I went the Bilstein route I would probably set it to 1-1.5” and call it good for a total of 2-2.5”. If I did go with the 5100’s would I need to replace UCA’s at that point? This is the only real hangup I’m having.
Also will the 5100 rears add any height in the back? I’d like to keep at least some of the rake. Thanks!
5100 in the rear do not add height but they will accommodate up to 1” additional height with ttt he e ORP. You could add a spacer or replace the rear springs with taller springs such as bilstein or icon
 

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