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Bilstein 5100

Using the 2” Mopar UCAs on a Rebel set at circlip #5 will improve the Angles?.. I know with this setup, I’m at 3” total.


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Using the 2” Mopar UCAs on a Rebel set at circlip #5 will improve the Angles?.. I know with this setup, I’m at 3” total.


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Did I waste my money?


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They're not that expensive and have more range than stock. I don't think it's a waste for the money.
 
They're not that expensive and have more range than stock. I don't think it's a waste for the money.

I know but I could put the $120 towards a UCA that is better for a lift over 2”


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What lift are you running? How are you going to be using it? Street queen (I'm including dirt roads on this on)? True offroading? That's important to know. You're posting in the Bilstein and Mopar lift threads.

From my research, Bilstein designed the struts to work with stock a-arms. So that means if you have a non ORP/Rebel/North/BTS truck, you can set them at the highest setting 2.6" and be fine with the stock a-arms. Adding the a-arms from Mopar will work in this scenario as well. Plenty of guys also run the Mopar lift plus ORP springs up front for a 3" lift and run the Mopar a-arms without issue.

If you decided to do Bilstein's at 2" and add a 1.5" tophat spacer, or do any other combo for a 3-3.5" lift, then I'd suggest moving to a different a-arm. But it's not imperative, unless you're going to wheel your truck hard off-road and maxing out your droop going over obstacles etc. Again, this is just from my research.
 
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What lift are you running? How are you going to be using it? Street queen (I'm including dirt roads on this on)? True offroading? That's important to know. You're posting in the Bilstein and Mopar lift threads.

From my research, Bilstein designed the struts to work with stock a-arms. So that means if you have a non ORP/Rebel/North/BTS truck, you can set them at the highest setting 2.6" and be fine with the stock a-arms. Adding the a-arms from Mopar will work in this scenario as well. Plenty of guys also run the Mopar lift plus ORP springs up front for a 3" lift and run the Mopar a-arms without issue.

If you decided to do Bilstein's at 2" and add 1.5" tophat spacer, or do any other combo for a 3-3.5" lift, then I'd suggest moving to a different a-arm. But it's not imperative, unless you're going to wheel your truck hard off-road and making out your droop going over obstacles etc. Again, this is just from my research.

Thank you!.. I do some light off-roading upstate NY when hunting. Also, a lot of beach driving in the warmer months fishing.. I do a fair share of off-roading. Just trying to improve all components.


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Anyone recommend?


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There’s certainly expensive UCA options. Ready lift, rough country, etc. I found some Mopar UCAs on Ebay that come with the 2” Mopar leveling kit. But you can get just the UCAs for around 120 before tax and shipping. Just make sure you’re looking at the ones for the 2” leveling kit and not the stock mopars
 
I would really hate to spend a couple thousand dollars on King Coilovers and still have the same problem.
I have the Bilsteins set to 5 with some Zone UCA's and am getting a similar clunk at full droop that is driving me nuts. Might be the shocks topping out. Did you resolve yours yet? I'm almost pulling the trigger on some extended Fox 2.5 coilovers..
 
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What lift are you running? How are you going to be using it? Street queen (I'm including dirt roads on this on)? True offroading? That's important to know. You're posting in the Bilstein and Mopar lift threads.

From my research, Bilstein designed the struts to work with stock a-arms. So that means if you have a non ORP/Rebel/North/BTS truck, you can set them at the highest setting 2.6" and be fine with the stock a-arms. Adding the a-arms from Mopar will work in this scenario as well. Plenty of guys also run the Mopar lift plus ORP springs up front for a 3" lift and run the Mopar a-arms without issue.

If you decided to do Bilstein's at 2" and add 1.5" tophat spacer, or do any other combo for a 3-3.5" lift, then I'd suggest moving to a different a-arm. But it's not imperative, unless you're going to wheel your truck hard off-road and making out your droop going over obstacles etc. Again, this is just from my research.
+1
 
I have the Bilsteins set to 5 with some Zone UCA's and am getting a similar clunk at full droop that is driving me nuts. Might be the shocks topping out. Did you resolve yours yet? I'm almost pulling the trigger on some extended Fox 2.5 coilovers..
Have you checked, retorqued/tightened to spec all your front suspension components, particularly front sway bar end links? When I was getting clunking that resolved it for me.
 
Doesn't the Rebel come with the upgraded UCA's?

The UCAs are the same across the board as mentioned, the Rebel has different springs that I think are slightly stiffer, hence the 1" lift, though I think not even that is from just the spring, I think it's including the 33" tires as part of the 1" height difference.
 
The UCAs are the same across the board as mentioned, the Rebel has different springs that I think are slightly stiffer, hence the 1" lift, though I think not even that is from just the spring, I think it's including the 33" tires as part of the 1" height difference.
So the ORP has the same lift as a Rebel, just smaller wheel/tire package? Does that mean when I was 'stock' I could fit the Rebel wheel/tire package on my ORP Longhorn?

*I have the Bilstein's on setting #2 w/ORP, so I'm sure I have the clearance now.
 
So the ORP has the same lift as a Rebel, just smaller wheel/tire package? Does that mean when I was 'stock' I could fit the Rebel wheel/tire package on my ORP Longhorn?

*I have the Bilstein's on setting #2 w/ORP, so I'm sure I have the clearance now.

I fit the rebel wheel/tire package on my non ORP bighorn prior to my Bilstein install with no rub


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So the ORP has the same lift as a Rebel, just smaller wheel/tire package? Does that mean when I was 'stock' I could fit the Rebel wheel/tire package on my ORP Longhorn?

*I have the Bilstein's on setting #2 w/ORP, so I'm sure I have the clearance now.

Rebel comes with Bilsteins.. Others come with Hitachis..


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Have you checked, retorqued/tightened to spec all your front suspension components, particularly front sway bar end links? When I was getting clunking that resolved it for me.
Thanks, I'll drive it a few miles and retorque everything.
 

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