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Best Dash Cam
- Thread starter Cliffrunner88
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- dash cam
I have the ThinkWare, it uses the same 3 conductor hard wire harness as the BlackVue with the 2 amp glass fuses. I cut the glass fuses out. However, I replaced the 5 amp fuses in the fuse taps with 2 amp fuses feeding the camera.
c3k
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First...okay?
Second...why would two fuses (in-line) be something I'd want to keep?
securityguy
Legendary member
The glass fuses are sized correctly to protect the camera...like 1 amp fuses. The fuse taps require a far larger size fuse (based on availability and you can't find a 1-2 amp fuse for our taps) then what's truly required. Secondly, if you don't get the polarity of the fuse tap correct, whereby the fuse in the tap will actually blow if there's an issue, the glass fuses are a great "back-up" against fuse taps installed backwards or in the case you have no choice but to install the fuse tap backwards based on the design of the fuse box.
Leave them on...it can only help and not hurt. You want them left in the circuit. Trust me, I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night
securityguy
Legendary member
Are you sure the polarity of the fuse taps are correct?
The lead feeding the camera is always fused at 2 amps regardless of polarity. The polarity affects 15 amp fuse going back into the fuse block. If inserted properly the 12v feed will directly feed both fuses. If reversed the primary fuse will carry the load of both fuses, not good. The 12 v side of the fuse block "hot leg" needs to be identified with a voltmeter or test light. The fuse tap lead opposite from the wire should go to the 12v side of the fuse block. Made a quick Vizio drawing to illustrate,
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c3k
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So...just getting into doing this.
15-30 minutes? Yeah, no.
I've checked the hot legs of the F33 and F66 pins on the fuse panel. Here's the pic:
Since the hot legs (not just labeled, but silver sharpie dotted
), need to be on the side AWAY from the cable lead on a fuse tap, that means the line on F66 will point left and the line for the fuse tap on F33 will point right. I've seen some folks do it differently in some of these threads.
I'll see about posting a lot more pix once I'm done.
FWIW, to set up the rear camera, fishing a wire across the headliner is NOT going to happen. There's a LOT of stuff in the way up there in the way and blocking my fiberglass rod. Instead, I'll run it inside the roof frame (avoiding the curtain airbags) over the driver's side doors, then across the back of the headliner.
15-30 minutes? Yeah, no.
I've checked the hot legs of the F33 and F66 pins on the fuse panel. Here's the pic:
Since the hot legs (not just labeled, but silver sharpie dotted
), need to be on the side AWAY from the cable lead on a fuse tap, that means the line on F66 will point left and the line for the fuse tap on F33 will point right. I've seen some folks do it differently in some of these threads. I'll see about posting a lot more pix once I'm done.
FWIW, to set up the rear camera, fishing a wire across the headliner is NOT going to happen. There's a LOT of stuff in the way up there in the way and blocking my fiberglass rod. Instead, I'll run it inside the roof frame (avoiding the curtain airbags) over the driver's side doors, then across the back of the headliner.
All depends on the fuse taps you buy and how you wire them.So...just getting into doing this.
15-30 minutes? Yeah, no.
I've checked the hot legs of the F33 and F66 pins on the fuse panel. Here's the pic:
View attachment 139859
Since the hot legs (not just labeled, but silver sharpie dotted
I'll see about posting a lot more pix once I'm done.
FWIW, to set up the rear camera, fishing a wire across the headliner is NOT going to happen. There's a LOT of stuff in the way up there in the way and blocking my fiberglass rod. Instead, I'll run it inside the roof frame (avoiding the curtain airbags) over the driver's side doors, then across the back of the headliner.
securityguy
Legendary member
Are all fuse taps not the same??? How else can you do it besides selecting a different fuse to tap???
securityguy
Legendary member
I wasn't thinking about it correctly.
c3k
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Okay...it's installed.
Thanks to everyone who has posted.
I'll toss some pix later. For now? Well, for now I'll ***** about running the line to the rear camera.
I've replaced about a dozen headliners in my life. Half of them on Volkswagens. (<- If you haven't done that (VW), well, nothing else compares.)
I ran the line for the rear camera along the front driver's headliner to the A-pillar, routed it behind the curtain airbag (closer to the roof/door than the airbag). The little sticky clips (included in the 750 kit) were useful to keep the line from falling. Upon arriving at the C pillar...the frustration kicked in. I could NOT get the line above the headliner over the rear window. The headliner curves into the roof, hard. Plus, the rear window frame cuts down on space.
I pushed a lot of line up into it and reached in from the (removed) center brake light hole. There's a double metal structure, the brake light assembly holes are small, and my hands are large.
It took me SEVERAL HOURS... I created a workaround solution.
I've got most things on the camera sorted. Now, I've just got to figure out how to get it to use non-metric measurements.
More later. Some pix. I stopped documenting sometime after the third curse session (plus the sweat running into my eyes and my sliced fingers would've made any pictures pretty lousy).
Thanks to everyone who has posted.
I'll toss some pix later. For now? Well, for now I'll ***** about running the line to the rear camera.
I've replaced about a dozen headliners in my life. Half of them on Volkswagens. (<- If you haven't done that (VW), well, nothing else compares.)
I ran the line for the rear camera along the front driver's headliner to the A-pillar, routed it behind the curtain airbag (closer to the roof/door than the airbag). The little sticky clips (included in the 750 kit) were useful to keep the line from falling. Upon arriving at the C pillar...the frustration kicked in. I could NOT get the line above the headliner over the rear window. The headliner curves into the roof, hard. Plus, the rear window frame cuts down on space.
I pushed a lot of line up into it and reached in from the (removed) center brake light hole. There's a double metal structure, the brake light assembly holes are small, and my hands are large.
It took me SEVERAL HOURS... I created a workaround solution.
I've got most things on the camera sorted. Now, I've just got to figure out how to get it to use non-metric measurements.
More later. Some pix. I stopped documenting sometime after the third curse session (plus the sweat running into my eyes and my sliced fingers would've made any pictures pretty lousy).
securityguy
Legendary member
Happy to help you if you need it. PM me and we can chat off line.Okay...it's installed.
Thanks to everyone who has posted.
I'll toss some pix later. For now? Well, for now I'll ***** about running the line to the rear camera.
I've replaced about a dozen headliners in my life. Half of them on Volkswagens. (<- If you haven't done that (VW), well, nothing else compares.)
I ran the line for the rear camera along the front driver's headliner to the A-pillar, routed it behind the curtain airbag (closer to the roof/door than the airbag). The little sticky clips (included in the 750 kit) were useful to keep the line from falling. Upon arriving at the C pillar...the frustration kicked in. I could NOT get the line above the headliner over the rear window. The headliner curves into the roof, hard. Plus, the rear window frame cuts down on space.
I pushed a lot of line up into it and reached in from the (removed) center brake light hole. There's a double metal structure, the brake light assembly holes are small, and my hands are large.
It took me SEVERAL HOURS... I created a workaround solution.
I've got most things on the camera sorted. Now, I've just got to figure out how to get it to use non-metric measurements.
More later. Some pix. I stopped documenting sometime after the third curse session (plus the sweat running into my eyes and my sliced fingers would've made any pictures pretty lousy).
GriffinHayes
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Recently purchased a used Garmin Dash Cam 55,
Using the Garmin Express software it will offer to update from 4.10 to 4.40, everything installs the way it should and once disconnecting the Dash Cam from the PC it turns off and is still at version 4.10…
but I am facing problem in how to reset dash cam , anyone here who can guide me?
Using the Garmin Express software it will offer to update from 4.10 to 4.40, everything installs the way it should and once disconnecting the Dash Cam from the PC it turns off and is still at version 4.10…
but I am facing problem in how to reset dash cam , anyone here who can guide me?
I'm surprised the DR590X has hardly been mentioned in this thread as a budget alternative. I'm looking at the DR590X-2CH vs. the DR750X-2CH-PLUS. Cost difference at TheDashCamStore is about $140. I don't care about cloud features and I don't want GPS speed logging. With that in mind, am I getting anything more than a little better image quality for the extra $140?
In researching dash cams I've noticed the app ratings are terrible, at least for Android. Not just the BlackVue app but the VIOFO and Thinkware apps too. Are there any users of the BlackVue app on Android that can attest it's not completely unusable? Because when I read recent reviews on the Play Store it sounds completely unusable.
@securityguy, early in this thread you mentioned the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo 4K as the best budget option. Does that still stand, or is there something else newer you would recommend as the best budget option now?
In researching dash cams I've noticed the app ratings are terrible, at least for Android. Not just the BlackVue app but the VIOFO and Thinkware apps too. Are there any users of the BlackVue app on Android that can attest it's not completely unusable? Because when I read recent reviews on the Play Store it sounds completely unusable.
@securityguy, early in this thread you mentioned the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo 4K as the best budget option. Does that still stand, or is there something else newer you would recommend as the best budget option now?
securityguy
Legendary member
I am not a fan of the DR590. How much do you want to spend? It's not only about cost, but what you are interested in. Low profile? Need a viewing screen or OK with downloading video from the camera to your phone? Lots of nice options and the newer VIOFO cameras are a great option.
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I don't have a specific amount I want to spend, but I also don't want to spend more on features I'm not interested in. I prefer low profile without a viewing screen. I like the integrated power management instead of needing a separate PMP. I don't care about cloud or GPS. I'm willing to pay more for a higher quality product that will likely last longer and will have good support if/when I need it. I prefer to avoid purchasing electronics from Chinese companies.
Besides the lower video quality, are there other reasons that you're not a fan of the DR590X?
The VIOFO model that sticks out as best fitting my needs is the A139, although there's not much talk of it on this forum. For 2 channel there are 2k and 4k versions available, about $100 difference. One thing I don't like about the VIOFO models is the connectors being on the top of the unit vs. the side.
Did you return your A139 for a replacement? If so, how was the customer service, and what are your thoughts on the A139 a few months later?Something like that. They'll honor my warranty, but I'm about to go on vacation, so I don't have time to go through the whole process of RMA until I return. I contacted them and they told me they'll keep the ticket open.
There's a lot of little components in there, unfortunately, the SD won't stay locked into place.
As far as heat in parking mode. I live in Florida. Even with the windows cracked, the inside of the car is ridiculously hot, plus the camera is getting hit directly from the sun, plus it's generating a little heat on its own. After a few hours, it's simply heat-soaked and I wouldn't put it past a tiny component to warp or break from the heat. Even without parking mode, I can't touch the unit when it's been in the sun.
I have no trouble using the camera when the AC is running.
Did you ever find a resolution to the heat issue, or are you just not using parking mode in the summer?
If you want ease of use, dash cams with a led display are much easier to configure, unless you can connect with an app through your phone. Being able to see the menu option in the display makes set up a breeze. I have the VIOFO 119. You can take the GPS module off if you don't want that's or just turn off the onscreen overlay of GPS data. But it's good to have that in he case of an accident when you need video evidence to defend yourself
securityguy
Legendary member
The A139 is a nice unit. I'm not a VIOFO fan because of the design and the connector placement. Have you looked at the Venture? I bought this one for my brother who drives for Lyft and it's very nice and economical.
Vantrue N2 Pro Dual Lens Dual 1080p Dash Cam for Front and Inside Recording
Dual lens inside and outside recording dashcam for taxi, rideshare, teen drivers, business fleets, etc. Vantrue's N2 Pro includes IR LEDs for night vision
www.thedashcamstore.com
VIOFO A139:
VIOFO A139-2CH | 2K Front and Rear Dash Cam w/ GPS & WiFi
New VIOFO A139 2CH Dash Cam: 2K dual-channel dashcam for front + rear recording. WiFi, GPS. Optional Bluetooth Remote, Parking Mode, and more!
www.thedashcamstore.com
