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Best Dash Cam

Are there any decent dashcams that aren't hard wired? Not sure how feasible a battery operated one might be, but I really had any wires running around if I could avoid it.
 
Then you have something else going on there. Happy to help you figure it out if interested. There is clearly either something off in your settings or you have a bad camera. I have not seen any cameras with the issue you are referencing.
Thanks, I'll PM you.
 
How do you manually save a recording on the Blackvue cameras?
The manual imply's to use the motion sensor to trigger a manual recording but if the unit is mounted behind the mirror, that doesn't seem very convenient to reach.
 
Are there any decent dashcams that aren't hard wired? Not sure how feasible a battery operated one might be, but I really had any wires running around if I could avoid it.
You can plug every dash cam into a cigarette lighter plug...none have to be hardwired. Hardwired is just cleaner looking and provides the capability for Parking Mode which is an essential feature. No standalone battery powered cameras. To hardwire a camera on a RAM takes like 15-30 minutes tops...SUPER EASY!
 
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How do you manually save a recording on the Blackvue cameras?
The manual imply's to use the motion sensor to trigger a manual recording but if the unit is mounted behind the mirror, that doesn't seem very convenient to reach.
All recordings are automatically saved to the micro-SD card until they are overwritten when the card becomes full. When an IMPACT is detected by a camera sensor, it locks that file on the SD card so it cannot be overwritten until you unlock the file. All dash cams work the same way for the most part. If you have more questions, feel free to ping me. If you want to manually save a video, you can find that video on the SD card via the app and save that file to your cell phone or lock it on the SD card.
 
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You can plug every dash cam into a cigarette lighter plug...none have to be hardwired. Hardwired is just cleaner looking and provides the capability for Parking Mode which is an essential feature.

I should clarify, I don't want any wires. That's why I'm looking to see if there's a viable battery option.
 
Sure, that's how all dash cams work, I asked about flagging a section of footage manualy though. I see things of interest all the time and my previous cams have a manual save button so I could flag a section of recording...manually.... makes it so much easier to find a video of interest when it's sitting in the lock file.

That button looks to be on the end of the camera mixed in with the cable connection in a position that seem unreachable and inconvenient.
It's a feature I use alot so it may matter to m
 
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I should clarify, I don't want any wires. That's why I'm looking to see if there's a viable battery option.
You can find battery packs meant for dash cams; Black Box My Car and Dash Cam Store both sell from. However, they are large (relative to the size of the dash cam) and are meant for keeping the camera running is parking mode (rather than using your truck’s battery) rather than while you’re driving. You still have to wire up the camera to the battery, then have a way to wire up the battery so it can recharge. So they are for a different purpose than what you’re looking for.

I suppose you could find a way to mount the battery close to your camera, and disconnect it to recharge it. I just don’t think you’d find that practical, though.
 
I should clarify, I don't want any wires. That's why I'm looking to see if there's a viable battery option.
It wouldn't have the same features, or footprint of a dashcam but they do make wireless surveilance cameras that have been used in automotive scenarios before. Assuming you are even thinking of an automitive use at this point.

I have experience with both WiFi and Cellular based wireless cameras with lithium batteries that can last up to 2 weeks.
They are phasing out the replaceable battery packs though so I think the Argus 2 is the only left with an interchangeable battery.
 
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I should clarify, I don't want any wires. That's why I'm looking to see if there's a viable battery option.
I have my dashcam wired behind my rearview mirror with an 8" wire.



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Are there any decent dashcams that aren't hard wired? Not sure how feasible a battery operated one might be, but I really had any wires running around if I could avoid it.
You mean a battery that's independent of the car's power? I assume you plan to take it out and charge it at night? Not very practical. I mean, all you need is a USB cord and a Power Bank like this:
1650981199450.png
But at that point, just get the cigarette lighter adapter. Dash cams are USB powered.


Dash cams are meant to be powered by the car. Either you power it by the cigarette lighter or other similar 12V adapters, or you splice it into a powered connection in the headliner, like I do. I prefer to have something like this up in my headliner:
1650980381379.png

That said, many good cameras have a parking mode, so you have 4 options, using my A129 Pro Duo as an example:
1. Direct Wire/Cig Adapter to an ACC/IGN source that only records when you drive.
2. Direct Wire/Cig Adapter to an ACC/IGN source and an external parking-mode battery that will continue to record until the external battery runs out.
3. HK2 hardwire kit, will power the camera 100% of the time. Camera Automatically starts parking mode after 5min of no motion. HK2 will kill power if the car battery falls below 11.8V.
4. HK3 hardwire kit, will power the camera 100% of the time but will tell the camera when the car is off for parking mode. HK3 will kill power if the car battery falls below 11.8, 12.0, 12.2, 12.4V (selectable).

I like my A129 Pro Duo, which is in both of my cars:
1650981299640.png
I plan on getting the Viofo A139 Triple when the new truck arrives:
1650981371002.png

Videos (some of my old Aukey Cam is mixed in):
 
I have my dashcam wired behind my rearview mirror with an 8" wire.



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do all ram models have this power in the mirror area or only the higher trims?
 
do all ram models have this power in the mirror area or only the higher trims?
Just too be clear...this is a hack using this product. Will it work? Yes it will. It is a recommended approach? No, it is not. It is far too easy to run a wire in the these trucks to the fuse panel than to do a hack on the mirror...just my professional opinion. There are reasons why these are not used professionally.
 
Just too be clear...this is a hack using this product. Will it work? Yes it will. It is a recommended approach? No, it is not. It is far too easy to run a wire in the these trucks to the fuse panel than to do a hack on the mirror...just my professional opinion. There are reasons why these are not used professionally.
so you would rather tear into a truck just to run a wire when you have this easy way to get power?
it seems it is no difference then jumping a fuse or jumping a wire, just more clean.
what am I missing?

maybe this is your way of running up the labor tab.
 
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so you would rather tear into a truck just to run a wire when you have this easy way to get power?
it seems it is no difference then jumping a fuse or jumping a wire, just more clean.
what am I missing?

maybe this is your way of running up the labor tab.
I’m semi-handy but not a professional at all, and I was able to easily hardwire a dash cam into the fuse box. I wouldn’t call it tearing into the truck at all.

Hardwiring a front cam takes maybe 15 minutes, or less. A rear cam is more challenging and time consuming, but this mirror adapter isn’t going to help with a rear cam anyway.

Maybe there is or maybe there isn’t harm in using such an adapter; I don’t know. But I do know that it’s not difficult to wire into the fuse box for a front cam, so I wouldn’t be weary of giving it a go.
 
I’m semi-handy but not a professional at all, and I was able to easily hardwire a dash cam into the fuse box. I wouldn’t call it tearing into the truck at all.

Hardwiring a front cam takes maybe 15 minutes, or less. A rear cam is more challenging and time consuming, but this mirror adapter isn’t going to help with a rear cam anyway.

Maybe there is or maybe there isn’t harm in using such an adapter; I don’t know. But I do know that it’s not difficult to wire into the fuse box for a front cam, so I wouldn’t be weary of giving it a go.
better explanation
 
Just too be clear...this is a hack using this product. Will it work? Yes it will. It is a recommended approach? No, it is not. It is far too easy to run a wire in the these trucks to the fuse panel than to do a hack on the mirror...just my professional opinion. There are reasons why these are not used professionally.
Explain how putting an adapter behind the mirror is a hack. What are the reasons these are not used? But running a wire, up the headliner, down the pillar, under the dash, and into the fuse box with a hard wire kit is not a hack?
 
Just too be clear...this is a hack using this product. Will it work? Yes it will. It is a recommended approach? No, it is not. It is far too easy to run a wire in the these trucks to the fuse panel than to do a hack on the mirror...just my professional opinion. There are reasons why these are not used professionally.
I just want to mention, most recent vehicles I've owned have either had a sunroof, compass mirror, auto-dimming mirror, or some sort of electronic device in the front headliner that is only powered when the key is in the ignition. Most dual (F&R) dash cams run 0.2-0.4A, they're not going to fry the circuit. I simply take out the front map light, look for any switched +12V, and a decent ground terminal/screw. I'm not a licensed installer of anything, but I'm the closest thing and an Engineer. I've wired my own car alarms, I've wired my own race car harnesses, so I am FAR more trusting of hunting down my own wires and tapping using a quality device.

I don't like this product/hack because it's some janky little part made in China that, for some reason, might not work in all models with all options. It scares me a little bit to think that I'm trusting my wiring system wont get screwed up by this little device. Our electrical system is 12-14VDC. USB is 5VDC, so there's a tiny little Voltage Regulator inside this little circled area. I'm willing to bet the circuitry is as cheap as the rest of the unit looks.
1651087492207.png
I don't want that in my $65,000 truck.

If you're comfortable with a direct-wire, I trust only these:
USB-A: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Reduced-Voltage-Regulator-Interface/dp/B08F9QYJV2
HK2: https://www.adorama.com/vfhk2.html
HK3: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Enables-Parking-Protection/dp/B07KZGM9LS
HK3-C: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-HK3-C-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection/dp/B08TW9BBGB
HK4: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection-Parking/dp/B09MRVP2PX

(Keep in mind, the HK3/4 are parking-mode power supplies, so they need 3 wires: +12V-Batt, +12V-Ign, Gnd.)

If you're not comfortable with direct-wire, this is Plug & Play:
Fuse: https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-Dashcam-Plozoe-Installation-Tool(11-5ft)/dp/B07FXJD8W1
OBD2: https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-Hardwire-Charger-Cable-Other/dp/B07HQ6D8RG
Cig: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Garmin-Vehicle-Charging-Dashcam/dp/B07RYND2TR

so you would rather tear into a truck just to run a wire when you have this easy way to get power?
it seems it is no difference then jumping a fuse or jumping a wire, just more clean.
what am I missing?

maybe this is your way of running up the labor tab.
See above.
 

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