Best Dash Cam

[Cocheese]

I have that adapter installed in my truck. It's powering a Garmin Mini 2 dash cam. No issues so far.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I just want to mention, most recent vehicles I've owned have either had a sunroof, compass mirror, auto-dimming mirror, or some sort of electronic device in the front headliner that is only powered when the key is in the ignition. Most dual (F&R) dash cams run 0.2-0.4A, they're not going to fry the circuit. I simply take out the front map light, look for any switched +12V, and a decent ground terminal/screw. I'm not a licensed installer of anything, but I'm the closest thing and an Engineer. I've wired my own car alarms, I've wired my own race car harnesses, so I am FAR more trusting of hunting down my own wires and tapping using a quality device.

I don't like this product/hack because it's some janky little part made in China that, for some reason, might not work in all models with all options. It scares me a little bit to think that I'm trusting my wiring system wont get screwed up by this little device. Our electrical system is 12-14VDC. USB is 5VDC, so there's a tiny little Voltage Regulator inside this little circled area. I'm willing to bet the circuitry is as cheap as the rest of the unit looks.
View attachment 127893
I don't want that in my $65,000 truck.

If you're comfortable with a direct-wire, I trust only these:
USB-A: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Reduced-Voltage-Regulator-Interface/dp/B08F9QYJV2
HK2: https://www.adorama.com/vfhk2.html
HK3: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Enables-Parking-Protection/dp/B07KZGM9LS
HK3-C: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-HK3-C-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection/dp/B08TW9BBGB
HK4: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection-Parking/dp/B09MRVP2PX

(Keep in mind, the HK3/4 are parking-mode power supplies, so they need 3 wires: +12V-Batt, +12V-Ign, Gnd.)

If you're not comfortable with direct-wire, this is Plug & Play:
Fuse: https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-Dashcam-Plozoe-Installation-Tool（11-5ft）/dp/B07FXJD8W1
OBD2: https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-Hardwire-Charger-Cable-Other/dp/B07HQ6D8RG
Cig: Amazon.com


See above.

So what exactly makes one "janky" part made in China(links you provided) better than any other "janky" part made in China? I'd be willing to bet the circuitry inside the viofi adapters do the same thing as the adapter that plugs in behind mirror. Only difference is packaging.

 

[bigdodge]

I just want to mention, most recent vehicles I've owned have either had a sunroof, compass mirror, auto-dimming mirror, or some sort of electronic device in the front headliner that is only powered when the key is in the ignition. Most dual (F&R) dash cams run 0.2-0.4A, they're not going to fry the circuit. I simply take out the front map light, look for any switched +12V, and a decent ground terminal/screw. I'm not a licensed installer of anything, but I'm the closest thing and an Engineer. I've wired my own car alarms, I've wired my own race car harnesses, so I am FAR more trusting of hunting down my own wires and tapping using a quality device.

I don't like this product/hack because it's some janky little part made in China that, for some reason, might not work in all models with all options. It scares me a little bit to think that I'm trusting my wiring system wont get screwed up by this little device. Our electrical system is 12-14VDC. USB is 5VDC, so there's a tiny little Voltage Regulator inside this little circled area. I'm willing to bet the circuitry is as cheap as the rest of the unit looks.
View attachment 127893
I don't want that in my $65,000 truck.

If you're comfortable with a direct-wire, I trust only these:
USB-A: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Reduced-Voltage-Regulator-Interface/dp/B08F9QYJV2
HK2: https://www.adorama.com/vfhk2.html
HK3: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Enables-Parking-Protection/dp/B07KZGM9LS
HK3-C: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-HK3-C-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection/dp/B08TW9BBGB
HK4: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection-Parking/dp/B09MRVP2PX

(Keep in mind, the HK3/4 are parking-mode power supplies, so they need 3 wires: +12V-Batt, +12V-Ign, Gnd.)

If you're not comfortable with direct-wire, this is Plug & Play:
Fuse: https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-Dashcam-Plozoe-Installation-Tool（11-5ft）/dp/B07FXJD8W1
OBD2: https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-Hardwire-Charger-Cable-Other/dp/B07HQ6D8RG
Cig: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Garmin-Vehicle-Charging-Dashcam/dp/B07RYND2TR


See above.

much better explanation


have not seen any posts that it causes harm

 

[bigdodge]

So what exactly makes one "janky" part made in China(links you provided) better than any other "janky" part made in China? I'd be willing to bet the circuitry inside the viofi adapters do the same thing as the adapter that plugs in behind mirror. Only difference is packaging.

exactly

 

[jofo]

Good morning! Looking for any input/experience from Blackvue owners on the Blackvue 750X Model differences.
Is the only difference the included LTE module? The descriptions seem to be the same otherwise. Potentially size difference?

Very much appreciate any light that can be shed on the subject!

 

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

So what exactly makes one "janky" part made in China(links you provided) better than any other "janky" part made in China? I'd be willing to bet the circuitry inside the viofi adapters do the same thing as the adapter that plugs in behind mirror. Only difference is packaging.

Brand name helps. I get that everything is made in China, but it's not just packaging, the actual components are better and better made, sorry if you don't believe me.

This is probably similar to the adapters I linked. This is an isolated DC/DC converter with a protection circuit. It isolates the device from noise, steadies the output, and protects against overcurrent:


Based on what I see underneath the heat shrink: This is probably similar to what's inside that 'janky' little device. This is the simplest, 'dirtiest' way to convert 12V to 5V. There is no isolation or voltage/current protection, I wouldn't be surprised it it was put together with solder and electrical tape:


Brand names usually protect their image by at least trying to use a reliable and safe device, even for simple tasks. Here's an example of a 'counterfeit' wall charger vs a brand name:

 

[HSKR R/T]

Brand name helps. I get that everything is made in China, but it's not just packaging, the actual components are better and better made, sorry if you don't believe me.

This is probably similar to the adapters I linked. This is an isolated DC/DC converter with a protection circuit. It isolates the device from noise, steadies the output, and protects against overcurrent:
View attachment 127990

Based on what I see underneath the heat shrink: This is probably similar to what's inside that 'janky' little device. This is the simplest, 'dirtiest' way to convert 12V to 5V. There is no isolation or voltage/current protection, I wouldn't be surprised it it was put together with solder and electrical tape:
View attachment 127991

Brand names usually protect their image by at least trying to use a reliable and safe device, even for simple tasks. Here's an example of a 'counterfeit' wall charger vs a brand name:
View attachment 127994

Without opening them up, one is just assuming. And since the adapter that plugs in behind mirror is on a regulated circuit for the electronics behind and for the mirror, you probably don't need all the extra voltage protection as the circuit already has that. Just need to drop it down to 5vdc output. I highly doubt Ram would allow large voltage fluctuations to it's own electronics in the vehicle. And yes, alternator and battery voltage will change, but that doesn't effect every circuit in the vehicle.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Brand name helps. I get that everything is made in China, but it's not just packaging, the actual components are better and better made, sorry if you don't believe me.

This is probably similar to the adapters I linked. This is an isolated DC/DC converter with a protection circuit. It isolates the device from noise, steadies the output, and protects against overcurrent:
View attachment 127990

Based on what I see underneath the heat shrink: This is probably similar to what's inside that 'janky' little device. This is the simplest, 'dirtiest' way to convert 12V to 5V. There is no isolation or voltage/current protection, I wouldn't be surprised it it was put together with solder and electrical tape:
View attachment 127991

Brand names usually protect their image by at least trying to use a reliable and safe device, even for simple tasks. Here's an example of a 'counterfeit' wall charger vs a brand name:
View attachment 127994

And do you honestly think a $6 adapter, the HK2 you linked, is going to have a lot of over engineering built in? A hobbyist wouldn't be able to built that themselves for that price using the circuit board you showed with voltage protection. To include wiring and connectors.

 

[Ickabod]

Good morning! Looking for any input/experience from Blackvue owners on the Blackvue 750X Model differences.
Is the only difference the included LTE module? The descriptions seem to be the same otherwise. Potentially size difference?

Very much appreciate any light that can be shed on the subject!

View attachment 127971

I currently have the BlackVue DR750X-2CH Plus camera. It works perfectly. I have had no issues what so ever. I plan on purchasing another one for my 2500. The only difference between the 2 models is the LTE module, which I don't need. I would highly recommend getting a better microsd card. This samsung card is the one I purchased and have never filled it up yet (I reformat every month after I download the video to my computer).
Edit:
I will also get the battery for my 2500 so it can record and not drain the truck battery when parked.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I just want to mention, most recent vehicles I've owned have either had a sunroof, compass mirror, auto-dimming mirror, or some sort of electronic device in the front headliner that is only powered when the key is in the ignition. Most dual (F&R) dash cams run 0.2-0.4A, they're not going to fry the circuit. I simply take out the front map light, look for any switched +12V, and a decent ground terminal/screw. I'm not a licensed installer of anything, but I'm the closest thing and an Engineer. I've wired my own car alarms, I've wired my own race car harnesses, so I am FAR more trusting of hunting down my own wires and tapping using a quality device.

I don't like this product/hack because it's some janky little part made in China that, for some reason, might not work in all models with all options. It scares me a little bit to think that I'm trusting my wiring system wont get screwed up by this little device. Our electrical system is 12-14VDC. USB is 5VDC, so there's a tiny little Voltage Regulator inside this little circled area. I'm willing to bet the circuitry is as cheap as the rest of the unit looks.
View attachment 127893
I don't want that in my $65,000 truck.

If you're comfortable with a direct-wire, I trust only these:
USB-A: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Reduced-Voltage-Regulator-Interface/dp/B08F9QYJV2
HK2: https://www.adorama.com/vfhk2.html
HK3: VIOFO HK3 ACC Hardwire Kit for A129, A129 Plus, A129 PRO, A129 IR, A119V3, Enables Parking Mode, Low Voltage Protection : Electronics
HK3-C: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-HK3-C-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection/dp/B08TW9BBGB
HK4: https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Hardwire-Voltage-Protection-Parking/dp/B09MRVP2PX

(Keep in mind, the HK3/4 are parking-mode power supplies, so they need 3 wires: +12V-Batt, +12V-Ign, Gnd.)

If you're not comfortable with direct-wire, this is Plug & Play:
Fuse: https://www.amazon.com/Hardwire-Dashcam-Plozoe-Installation-Tool（11-5ft）/dp/B07FXJD8W1
OBD2: https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-Hardwire-Charger-Cable-Other/dp/B07HQ6D8RG
Cig: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Garmin-Vehicle-Charging-Dashcam/dp/B07RYND2TR


See above.

I get what you're saying. Makes sense to want to use quality & safe products that won't potentially mess up our truck's wiring.

I'll keep an eye on mine. I have Viofo A119V3 running on it. From my online searches, I haven't come across anyone reporting a problem.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I currently have the BlackVue DR750X-2CH Plus camera. It works perfectly. I have had no issues what so ever. I plan on purchasing another one for my 2500. The only difference between the 2 models is the LTE module, which I don't need. I would highly recommend getting a better microsd card. This samsung card is the one I purchased and have never filled it up yet (I reformat every month after I download the video to my computer).
Edit:
I will also get the battery for my 2500 so it can record and not drain the truck battery when parked.

I would recommend any microsd card with an 'endurance' designation for use with dash cams and security cams.

• https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Endu...64854&sprefix=endurance+sd,aps,72&sr=8-3&th=1
• https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Endu...1651164854&sprefix=endurance+sd,aps,72&sr=8-4
• https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Endu...1651164854&sprefix=endurance+sd,aps,72&sr=8-5
• https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-En...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

 

[HSKR R/T]

I get what you're saying. Makes sense to want to use quality & safe products that won't potentially mess up our truck's wiring.

I'll keep an eye on mine. I have Viofo A119V3 running on it. From my online searches, I haven't come across anyone reporting a problem.

Ive been running the adapter that plugs in by mirror in my truck for over 18 mo that with zero issues. I have one of the Apeman cameras, which has also been flawless. It's a shame they aren't sold through Amazon anymore.

 

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

Without opening them up, one is just assuming. And since the adapter that plugs in behind mirror is on a regulated circuit for the electronics behind and for the mirror, you probably don't need all the extra voltage protection as the circuit already has that. Just need to drop it down to 5vdc output. I highly doubt Ram would allow large voltage fluctuations to it's own electronics in the vehicle. And yes, alternator and battery voltage will change, but that doesn't effect every circuit in the vehicle.

And do you honestly think a $6 adapter, the HK2 you linked, is going to have a lot of over engineering built in? A hobbyist wouldn't be able to built that themselves for that price using the circuit board you showed with voltage protection. To include wiring and connectors.

Look, I can only give you so much. Enjoy putting a trash Alibaba USB adapters in your $60,000 truck.

Everything is made in China, but not all of it is crap. The HK2 is so cheap because it's discontinued, replaced by the HK3 and HK4.
Honest opinion. Viofo, BlackVue, and Vantrue are your top 3 high-quality dash cam makers. I'd rather go with their adapter, regardless of what I *think* might be inside.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

Look, I can only give you so much. Enjoy putting a trash Alibaba USB adapters in your $60,000 truck.

Everything is made in China, but not all of it is crap. The HK2 is so cheap because it's discontinued, replaced by the HK3 and HK4.
Honest opinion. Viofo, BlackVue, and Vantrue are your top 3 high-quality dash cam makers. I'd rather go with their adapter, regardless of what I *think* might be inside.

The Dongar company is based out of San Francisco, CA. But I'm not sure if their adapters are made in China. I couldn't find anything.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

Ive been running the adapter that plugs in by mirror in my truck for over 18 mo that with zero issues. I have one of the Apeman cameras, which has also been flawless. It's a shame they aren't sold through Amazon anymore.

Good to know. Over 1k reviews on Amazon too.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Look, I can only give you so much. Enjoy putting a trash Alibaba USB adapters in your $60,000 truck.

Everything is made in China, but not all of it is crap. The HK2 is so cheap because it's discontinued, replaced by the HK3 and HK4.
Honest opinion. Viofo, BlackVue, and Vantrue are your top 3 high-quality dash cam makers. I'd rather go with their adapter, regardless of what I *think* might be inside.

So you are calling another part trash just because it doesn't carry the same brand name you think is high quality. Got it.

 

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

So you are calling another part trash just because it doesn't carry the same brand name you think is high quality. Got it.

I'm calling another part trash because it's put together like trash and appears to be made with various pieces of trash. If you think I'm wrong, buy one, take off the heat shrink (lol) tubing and let's see what's underneath.

Again. $60,000 truck and this is what you choose to buy. Good luck to you, fella.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I'm calling another part trash because it's put together like trash and appears to be made with various pieces of trash. If you think I'm wrong, buy one, take off the heat shrink (lol) tubing and let's see what's underneath.

Again. $60,000 truck and this is what you choose to buy. Good luck to you, fella.

I have one in my truck. Been there for over 18 months. Zero issues. No wires to route down to fuse panel. No splicing, no taping into fuse panel, just plug and play. No need to cut it apart, it works as advertised.

 

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

I have one in my truck. Been there for over 18 months. Zero issues. No wires to route down to fuse panel. No splicing, no taping into fuse panel, just plug and play. No need to cut it apart, it works as advertised.

OK, enjoy.

 

[bigdodge]

I'm calling another part trash because it's put together like trash and appears to be made with various pieces of trash. If you think I'm wrong, buy one, take off the heat shrink (lol) tubing and let's see what's underneath.

Again. $60,000 truck and this is what you choose to buy. Good luck to you, fella.

why don't you buy one and take it apart?
seeing how you claim to be an expert.