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B2Fab Stainless 5" exhaust tips

Waterfowler41

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Waterfowler41

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Went to install my dads B2 tips on his 20 Limited (eTorque) and running into fitment issues. I noticed his OEM tips have a small crimp. The B2 tips sit deeper on the OEM exhaust and even with the exhaust clamps cranked all the way down (wouldn’t tighten any more) the tips do not tighten up to the OEM system at all. The second you let go of the tip they flop down.

Sent pictures to Matt at B2 and he suggested notching B2’s or returning the tips altogether.

Anyone every have this issue or notice notches on their factory tips? My Rebel’s weren’t notched like this.

The tips fit fine on my Kooks system on my truck but for some reason they don’t fit very well on my dads factory system.
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Well my tips finally arrived on Tueday, huge delays on the Canadian side of the border.

Some problems with the shipment. The powder coating on the tips is already chipped, powder coat done correctly shouldn't chip easy. I know the chipping occurred because the way it was packaged. The worst of the marks I assume is where the hanger on the resonator delete was hitting. The face of the tips I don't know if it was also from the resonators moving around or just bad powder coating. Several shops I contact in my area to have them redone have told me the prep work was not done correctly. All the shops I contacted assured me powder coat is all that is needed on exhaust tips, that it's more durable then ceramic coating. They told me ceramic coating is more expensive and not needed, only needed on high temp parts like manifolds, downpipe etc...

I think they powder coat is good enough to hold up to the heat, I just think that for impact like what happened in the box they powder coat can't withstand that which normally powder coat should. So anyone who has undamaged ones, I wouldn't worry so much about the heay

In any case, Matt @B2 Fabrication has made things right with me. I want to say thank you to him for his great customer service support and making sure I was a happy customer. So even though it sucks that they arrived like this, at least he didn't leave me hanging. So I will use the refund he gave me to have them stipped down to the stainless steel and reshot with new powder coat. Heck I might even get them done with a high gloss black or if the shop has something similar to the stock black chrome I might get that done. I did for a split second think about getting the blue to match my truck but then I figured that would like "ricey" and I would need to hang out with the Honda rice rockets.

Anyhow here are the pictures of my tips and deletes. I'm just waiting until next week when the shop has time to do them. I will repost updated pictures once I have them redone with powder coat. I am also thinking about getting the resonator delete powder coating while I am at it as well. If not, I will be spraying those with BBQ.

**this post is in no way intended to bash on Matt or his company, the powder coat isn't his fault and it seems he is just trying to give people an option for black since so many of us asked. I just think the prep process and coating process needs to be relooked at or using a different company for it. Like I said before they may be fine with the heat just be careful when handling them**


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ram!TH@rd

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Well my tips finally arrived on Tueday, huge delays on the Canadian side of the border.

Some problems with the shipment. The powder coating on the tips is already chipped, powder coat done correctly shouldn't chip easy. I know the chipping occurred because the way it was packaged. The worst of the marks I assume is where the hanger on the resonator delete was hitting. The face of the tips I don't know if it was also from the resonators moving around or just bad powder coating. Several shops I contact in my area to have them redone have told me the prep work was not done correctly. All the shops I contacted assured me powder coat is all that is needed on exhaust tips, that it's more durable then ceramic coating. They told me ceramic coating is more expensive and not needed, only needed on high temp parts like manifolds, downpipe etc...

I think they powder coat is good enough to hold up to the heat, I just think that for impact like what happened in the box they powder coat can't withstand that which normally powder coat should. So anyone who has undamaged ones, I wouldn't worry so much about the heay

In any case, Matt @B2 Fabrication has made things right with me. I want to say thank you to him for his great customer service support and making sure I was a happy customer. So even though it sucks that they arrived like this, at least he didn't leave me hanging. So I will use the refund he gave me to have them stipped down to the stainless steel and reshot with new powder coat. Heck I might even get them done with a high gloss black or if the shop has something similar to the stock black chrome I might get that done. I did for a split second think about getting the blue to match my truck but then I figured that would like "ricey" and I would need to hang out with the Honda rice rockets.

Anyhow here are the pictures of my tips and deletes. I'm just waiting until next week when the shop has time to do them. I will repost updated pictures once I have them redone with powder coat. I am also thinking about getting the resonator delete powder coating while I am at it as well. If not, I will be spraying those with BBQ.

**this post is in no way intended to bash on Matt or his company, the powder coat isn't his fault and it seems he is just trying to give people an option for black since so many of us asked. I just think the prep process and coating process needs to be relooked at or using a different company for it. Like I said before they may be fine with the heat just be careful when handling them**


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Black Chrome or Gloss Black... I went through the same dilemma with my powder coater.. Although he could have NOT said anything and made more money off me with Black Chrome, he steered me away from it.. He said that he couldn't guarantee Black Chrome would hold up over time especially during winter months when DOT throws down road salt. The stock black one are showing road wear and require buffing to make them shine.. I didn't want more cleaning so I went with Gloss Black and save the $$ from a meal. AND YES!! I thought about adding some other colors to my tips but, like you, I gave it second thought. These trucks are FAR from ricers..
 

securityguy

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Hey guys...a bit off topic, but related to powder coating. Thinking of having my 22" OEM Limited wheels black powder coated (either matte black or gloss black...not sure and open to your thoughts). Anyone have anything like this done and willing to share the cost and their experience with coating the rims? I'll post under the wheels section too but thought a few of you may have have done this. Thanks!
 

securityguy

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Went to install my dads B2 tips on his 20 Limited (eTorque) and running into fitment issues. I noticed his OEM tips have a small crimp. The B2 tips sit deeper on the OEM exhaust and even with the exhaust clamps cranked all the way down (wouldn’t tighten any more) the tips do not tighten up to the OEM system at all. The second you let go of the tip they flop down.

Sent pictures to Matt at B2 and he suggested notching B2’s or returning the tips altogether.

Anyone every have this issue or notice notches on their factory tips? My Rebel’s weren’t notched like this.

The tips fit fine on my Kooks system on my truck but for some reason they don’t fit very well on my dads factory system.
Are you using the OEM tip clamps? They should work just fine based on your pics. I had no issues with mine and they fit just like the stock tips. Weird that your's are different and that they don't remain in place once tightened.
 
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Well messed around a little today making sure everything was going to fit properly and give me a tight fit. @Waterfowler41 , after test fitting the 5" pipe to my resonator and the resonator delete I had no problem getting a tight clamp down. In fact I find the clamp around both was tighter then the factory. By the time the clamp was tight the factory pipe I only had about 1/8" gap still to go. With the 5" tip I had 1/4 gap left to keep tightening.

Anyhow my resonator delete and tips are going to the powder coasters tomorrow. Still debating between satin or gloss black as while I am there in going to ask about getting my rims powder coated within the spokes (pictures of my ideas in the tire/wheel section)

I removed the tap from the bracket as its not used with the resonator delete. Grinded down the spot weld so that I can get that powder coated as well. Gonna have to rise with no tips for 1 week until next weekend when I can hopefully finally install this stuff lol.

Removed tap and grinded smooth.
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Comparison shot 5" left and factory 4.5" right
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How I'm gonna roll for a week
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Check out my powder coat ideas if you want on my other thread.


The front axle us the design I think I'm gonna do
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Waterfowler41

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We are going to try and buy new clamps. I suspect the factory ones are stretched out which is why the tips are notched. Not really sure why but it is what it is.

The clamps on my Rebel fit OK so new clamps may be the solution here.
 

securityguy

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Check out my powder coat ideas if you want on my other thread.


The front axle us the design I think I'm gonna do
I like the rears without the chrome/silver on them. Thinking about blacking out my 22" Limited rims.
 
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I like the rears without the chrome/silver on them. Thinking about blacking out my 22" Limited rims.

So all black like in this crappy picture I edited lol....

When I dropped my pipes and tips of at the powder-coater today, I asked about the rims. He said he couldn’t do the silver/black because there is no definitive line to go by. And something about with the heat etc, when it goes into the oven. No really sure.

Basically I have to do all black if I do this, which I would choose satin the colour I am getting the tips done. But the issues is he has no tire machines. So it makes this difficult, as I don’t have a spare set of rims. So I’d have to try to borrow some, then I’d have to get the tires removed and then reinstalled which drives the price up another $200cad or so on top of the very reasonable $100cad/rim.

I might just end up trading for the 22” Sport rims as that’s just a matter of swapping them. The buyer already has his off the truck so it would only require removing mine. Driveway job for about 1hr.
 

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securityguy

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I found a highly reputable shop in my area that does the full monty. Unmount, powder coat, remount and balance and guarantees a scratch free installation. 48-hour turnaround.
 
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Well I got my stuff back from the powder coating shops and I have to say it’s looking awesome. I can’t put the resonator deletes on just yet, as I had been rear ended back in December and I need to go back to dealer to get an exhaust issue fixed. If the passenger side pipe is push all the way to where it’s suppose to be (there is a slit that is on the pipe that meets up to a alignment/stop rivet) my exhaust tip would be back about 2” under the bumper.

In the meantime I have installed the 5” tips which look great and way bigger then the factory black chrome ones. So I measured both, the factory tips are 4.5” OD and 3 3/4” IN and the B2 tips are 5” OD and 4 3/4” ID. So the B2 are 1/2” bigger outside and because the B2 tips are tapered in (rather then a rolled edge like factory the insides are 1” bigger)

Anyhow once I get the resonators installed I will post a video, just not sure when that is going to happen.

I’m glad I choice to get the reasontors powder coated as well as getting the tips fixed and recoated.

Enjoy,

Sorry for some grainy photos of the tips, but it’s way over cast and raining. I will get new ones on a sunny day.

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ktl5005

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Bumping this. Just got my polished B2Fab tips yesterday and noticed the stock tips have a tab and holder opposite side of the bolt clamp, while the B2Fab tips have neither. Just un-bolt and bolt up the new B2Fab ones?
 

securityguy

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Bumping this. Just got my polished B2Fab tips yesterday and noticed the stock tips have a tab and holder opposite side of the bolt clamp, while the B2Fab tips have neither. Just un-bolt and bolt up the new B2Fab ones?
Yep! The tabs are not necessary.
 

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