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AirBags - Timber Grove vs AirLift 5000 Ultimate Plus+

I have a lift, off road quite frequently and tow quite a bit during the summers and have had no issues with my Timber groves. Love them.
I have a 2020 stock quad cab Rebel and want to get these to help carry a Cirrus 620 truck camper. BUT I run around with the bed empty 99% of the time if not carrying the camper. I find the Rebel OEM suspension bouncy enough already when the bed is empty.

Honestly ,do the Timber grove ASAM bags add more bounce when empty ?? Even if the bags are at minimum pressure ?

Also you said you off road too ! Another huge concern is that they will not allow for full suspension droop & compression travel ? True? False?

I am seeing mixed reviews on this thread
 
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Anything you add to increase support will affect the ride. To help keep the bags from getting damaged, the manufacturers recommend that you keep a minimum amount of air in them. This is usually only 5 psi or so. This adds a little bit of resistance to the trucks suspension to move up and down as it normally would. I had the Air Lift 1000 HD bags for a while and did not care for them. I found they affected the ride too much. It felt very stiff with only 5 psi in them. I now have Timber Grove bags, but my truck is lowered and I have the CRM’s which replace the factory springs. So, I do not have personal experience with the ASAM’s (assist bags).
I was and still am considering the Timber grove CRM instead of the ASAM for my Stock rebel. I cant handle the ride getting ANY worse than stock when empty. I know you are lowered, but bet the ride is Cadillac ! ??
 
I was and still am considering the Timber grove CRM instead of the ASAM for my Stock rebel. I cant handle the ride getting ANY worse than stock when empty. I know you are lowered, but bet the ride is Cadillac ! ??

I also have Ridetech adjustable coilovers up front and Ridetech adjustable shocks in the rear. So, the overall ride is stiffer than stock, but I prefer a more responsive feel in suspension over the plush “Cadillac“ feel it was when stock. I think if you don’t want to stiffen the ride at all, stick with the stock springs and deal with the sag when towing. Anything you add most likely will change the feel of the suspension. I cannot comment on the effects of the ASAMs since I have never used them.
 
I have a 2020 stock quad cab Rebel and want to get these to help carry a Cirrus 620 truck camper. BUT I run around with the bed empty 99% of the time if not carrying the camper. I find the Rebel OEM suspension bouncy enough already when the bed is empty.

Honestly ,do the Timber grove ASAM bags add more bounce when empty ?? Even if the bags are at minimum pressure ?

Also you said you off road too ! Another huge concern is that they will not allow for full suspension droop & compression travel ? True? False?

I am seeing mixed reviews on this thread

My pair of pennies: you will be very unsatisfied hauling that camper with a 1500. 1600 lbs dry weight, before adding propane/water/food/cargo, then you need to climb into the truck at 150 lbs min, possibly your wife and/or other passengers. Not only will you exceed your payload (which can't be more than about 1600?) but a very good chance you exceed your RAWR as well. Even if you manage to stay under the ratings, that camper is top heavy and the rams suspension will not carry that well regardless of extra air bags. Even Ram 2500's do not haul truck campers well, the coil suspension is in board vs a more traditional leaf spring setup found on the Chevy/Fords, so they rock left to right more easily.

So there is a huge difference in performance carrying 1600 lbs of firewood vs 1600 pounds of truck camper. I would try to rent/beg/steal one for a day or two first before putting money down on one.
 
I was and still am considering the Timber grove CRM instead of the ASAM for my Stock rebel. I cant handle the ride getting ANY worse than stock when empty. I know you are lowered, but bet the ride is Cadillac ! ??
Timber Groves add some bounce if the bed is empty. Even at 5psi (measured by my onboard compressor) it lifted the back of the truck almost 1/2". They replace your bump stops, so at 5 psi they'll still allow for full suspension travel.
 
My pair of pennies: you will be very unsatisfied hauling that camper with a 1500. 1600 lbs dry weight, before adding propane/water/food/cargo, then you need to climb into the truck at 150 lbs min, possibly your wife and/or other passengers. Not only will you exceed your payload (which can't be more than about 1600?) but a very good chance you exceed your RAWR as well. Even if you manage to stay under the ratings, that camper is top heavy and the rams suspension will not carry that well regardless of extra air bags. Even Ram 2500's do not haul truck campers well, the coil suspension is in board vs a more traditional leaf spring setup found on the Chevy/Fords, so they rock left to right more easily.

So there is a huge difference in performance carrying 1600 lbs of firewood vs 1600 pounds of truck camper. I would try to rent/beg/steal one for a day or two first before putting money down on one.
Payload for my truck believe it or not is 1810 lb. Don't plan on driving on the interstate with the camper. Just 55 mph highways with me at 220, dog at 50, a paddle board that's too damn big at 33, some clothes provisions and dog food for the weekend maybe another 150? So fully wet with I think it's 17 gallons of water 141.78 ? I may be pushing close to 500 hundred pounds over, I honestly haven't added it all up yet. But CRM full replacement bags can easily handle that, and I drive like Grandpa. The build has started: Timber Grove full replacement bags most likely(maybe ASAM), Bilstein 6112 in the front at circlip 7 w/ RC OEM UCA's, probably 5160s in the back we're going to see how the Rebel shocks work first, a metal cloak JT rear track bar, and more than likely the bigger fatter rear hell wig or somebody else's fatter sway bar. The Cirrus 620 truck camper might look top heavy but the center of gravity is 24.75 inches up from the base/ bed floor and the tanks minus propane are in the floor. That's top heavy? It may be overloaded a bit, aye, but I think she'll handle it.
 
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Check your driver door jam theres a sticker there on the B pillar don't rely on google the sticker will have “your” actually specs
 
Should say something like the combined weight should not exceed xx KG or xx lbs will also have your tire information on it. Just take a picture we can explain it. Should be right below the door latch.
 
Should say something like the combined weight should not exceed xx KG or xx lbs will also have your tire information on it. Just take a picture we can explain it. Should be right below the door latch.
yeah I found it with the tire info/inflation/size sticker
 
research and websites, jamb sticker is a bit lower

How much though, probably around 1500 to 1600?

As I suspected, you'll be over payload and more concerning you'll quite likely be over your rear axle limit. Could be wrong, but this is sort of the wrong truck for that camper despite how they market it.
 
Yep I haven’t heard of a rebel trim having 1800lb of payload.. the very few that I heard of having numbers anywhere close to that would be a tradesman/lower optioned big horn.

Maybe look into a small travel trailer or pop up camper or maybe the setup that @boogielander runs would fit your needs.
 
I have a 2020 stock quad cab Rebel and want to get these to help carry a Cirrus 620 truck camper. BUT I run around with the bed empty 99% of the time if not carrying the camper. I find the Rebel OEM suspension bouncy enough already when the bed is empty.

Honestly ,do the Timber grove ASAM bags add more bounce when empty ?? Even if the bags are at minimum pressure ?

Also you said you off road too ! Another huge concern is that they will not allow for full suspension droop & compression travel ? True? False?

I am seeing mixed reviews on this thread
I’ve noticed no bounce to the rear end. No issues with compression or droop travel when off roading and haven taken some pretty big hits. Usually ride around with 0-5psi daily or off-roading and never had issues with the bags tearing, busting lines or the schrader valves. Pics are not fool droop, and they can compress way more when I hook the trailer up and inflate.
 

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Not planning on losing my down payment. I don't know about the rear axle limit, but here's one thing I think everyone's forgetting about the 5th gen rear axle and that's how beefy these are for a 1500 truck. I do know for absolutely sure the tow rating on my truck is damn near 12,000 lb. Would I tow that amount? Hell no, & I don't want to tow anymore, been there done that. No more trailers. But, I think with the tow rating like that it's beefy enough to push it over a thousand pounds with all the suspension mods I'm planning. Doing all the suspension mods in stages to get it where I deem it functional.
 
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I’ve noticed no bounce to the rear end. No issues with compression or droop travel when off roading and haven taken some pretty big hits. Usually ride around with 0-5psi daily or off-roading and never had issues with the bags tearing, busting lines or the schrader valves. Pics are not fool droop, and they can compress way more when I hook the trailer up and inflate.
Nice, this is the. EXACT feedback I'm looking for!! May save me 500 bucks??!
 
So what about the trucks frame if it decides to bend on you. What about stopping the truck? Specs are there for a reason. I get it most the manuf bs advertise it can tow 7 zillion pounds blah its just marketing you’ll run out of hitch/payload before you will ever get close to that number. I would much rather lose a deposit on the camper then get stuck with it and realize your trucks not capable of using it then forcing you to take either a bigger lose or getting into a bigger truck. You can add all the mods you want to try to make it better but it doesn’t change that number on the sticker and actually takes away from the available payload.
 
More food for thought. Add any additional weight even if thats gear or pets/passengers etc that also subtracts from your available payload. Dry camping? Well then your hauling water as well.. water weighs something boom even less available payload. Get into any accident and boom sue city. I urge to think about this before you pull the trigger and make sure your within those numbers. Even going to a cat scale and getting the trucks number when empty with just you. Then with whatever you will typically carry with you. Would help get you actually numbers and not just not guesses.

SPECS​

Overall Length12' 8"
Overall Width8' 2"
Overall Height8' 2"
Primary Sleep Area60" x 76"
2nd Sleeping Area30" x 77"
Interior Height76"
Fresh Water Tank17 gal
Gray Water Tank13 gal
Black Tank5 gal
Center of Gravity24.75"
Gross Weight (Dry)1,593 lbs

Dry weight is the weight of the camper with standard equipment, excluding; propane, tank fluids, cargo, and optional equipment.

^^^^^ even less available payload if your bringing propane
 
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Not planning on losing my down payment. I don't know about the rear axle limit, but here's one thing I think everyone's forgetting about the 5th gen rear axle and that's how beefy these are for a 1500 truck. I do know for absolutely sure the tow rating on my truck is damn near 12,000 lb. Would I tow that amount? Hell no, & I don't want to tow anymore, been there done that. No more trailers. But, I think with the tow rating like that it's beefy enough to push it over a thousand pounds with all the suspension mods I'm planning. Doing all the suspension mods in stages to get it where I deem it functional.

I'm not giving you a hard time, just describing how it works.

Your tow rating is a myth. There are 4 important limits on your truck:
GCWR (what you can pull, and thats the 11k to 12k limit you noted)
GVWR (what your vehicle can weigh, most people use payload instead as its easier to do the math)
RAWR (rear axle)
hitch

The first limit you exceed, that's the limit on your truck. If you're pulling a boat, it puts 5 to 10 percent tongue weight on your truck, you can probably pull 10000 pounds which puts 500 to 1000 pounds on your truck leaving 200 pounds for driver and a bit extra for passengers + cargo.

If you're pulling a 5w, they typically put 15 to 20 percent or more on your bed, you can no longer pull a 10,000 pound 5w. That would put almost 2000 pounds on your truck + another 100 pounds for the 5w hitch itself.

So Ram doesn't know what you're pulling, thats why they give you multiple limits, and the first limit that you hit while pulling/carrying whatever it is you're doing, that's the limit.

Most people are limited to about 8000 lbs or less when it comes to common trailers. 5w's are pretty much not towable, and neither are slide in campers. You found one of the very lightest out there, but the important spec not to go past is the rear axle. It's rated at 4100 lbs, but you may want to run over a cat scale. There are a number of stories of guys bending their frames carrying/towing too much weight, especially offroad which really leans the truck and forces the weight temporarily over one spot.

Suspension mods don't help you carry additional weight beyond your original GVWR, they just control the weight you do add, better. Your payload is your payload, and no suspension mods you can do will fix that unless you start modifying the frame and rear axle as well.

But I'm not going to argue this to death, just letting you know a number of guys have wrecked their Rams/frames doing more then they thought it could do. If you bend your frame or damage it with that camper, Ram will deny you warranty as there is no way you can carry it with a driver and still be under payload.

(don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger 🤷‍♂️ )
 
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