Air conditioning Hack

[Huskymush]

@KcRay When installing the valve is it necessary to bleed the system?

 

[Huskymush]

Just installed the brass valve that @Jhill recommended, definitely quality piece, just wondering if its up to the temperature task, but no leaks whatsoever.

As for the A/C performance right now is on par with other vehicles, very satisfactory results, it's working as it should be from the factory now.

Did some tests when I was purging the system of air after the the valve install, closed and opened the valve while the engine was running and radiator cap off, there is no added pressure on the system when closing the valve.

Very happy now, thanks @KcRay !

What's the process to purge the system? Totally forgot to do this...hope It doesn't mess anything up.

 

[rceagle1a]

It may be for your specific build date. Following to see if there is a recall/TSB indeed out there. But a bolt which caused all of the refrigerant to leak out would mean the AC system would stop blowing cold completely, not just on humid/hot days.

Something smells bad on what that dealer said.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Let's not de-rail this thread talking about ford's a/c and seat issues . . .

Thats true, my bad.

 

[KcRay]

@KcRay When installing the valve is it necessary to bleed the system?

I did not, I bet I lost a spoonful of coolant and I had the hose clamped.

 

[Magredvet]

why is 40 degree vent temps at 92 outside a problem?

40 degrees is not so bad, but if it's like my truck, that's only the pass side vent. The drivers side won't get below 52, hence the issue with the blend door.
The evaporator is obviously getting cold enough to supply 40 degree air BUT, on the DS heat from the heater core is bleeding into the airstream, and so it won't get below 52. Not good enough in a Texas summer

 

[KcRay]

What's the process to purge the system? Totally forgot to do this...hope It doesn't mess anything up.

I did not need to purge because I did the deed very quickly, and had the hose clamped off. With the engine "Cold" take off the metal radiator cap. Start engine and let idle till it gets up to temp, "with the cap off". Top off the radiator with the engine still running, replace cap.

 

[James Cole]

Very easy to bleed the system.

-Let the truck sit overnight
-Open the radiator cap cover right next to the coolant reservoir
- Fill it and start the truck, you will see in about 3-5 minutes bubbles coming out and the coolant level getting lower, continue toadd coolant until you see no more bubbles.
-When system reaches 194F close the cover and turn off truck
-Next day remove the radiator tab again when engine cold, if you dont see coolant on the hole add more until you see it, close tab and thats it, no need to start the truck again.

Very important to follow this steps or you might get coolant spill and or burns. Never open the radiator cap while hot.

 

[James Cole]

I did not need to purge because I did the deed very quickly, and had the hose clamped off. With the engine "Cold" take off the metal radiator cap. Start engine and let idle till it gets up to temp, "with the cap off". Top off the radiator with the engine still running, replace cap.

You need to bleed the system depending how much coolant you lost. If its minimal its not really necessary.

 

[Hackmunch]

i had the hvac tsb done last week. didnt notice any difference. installed clamp on heater core hose and holy **** is this thing a ice box.

 

[Snakes709]

Idont

It may be for your specific build date. Following to see if there is a recall/TSB indeed out there. But a bolt which caused all of the refrigerant to leak out would mean the AC system would stop blowing cold completely, not just on humid/hot days.

I dont have any cold air. My wifes suv blows colder air just by going to the lowest temp and no ac on then mine does with ac on with recirculation.

 

[Gman]

I dont have any cold air. My wifes suv blows colder air just by going to the lowest temp and no ac on then mine does with ac on with recirculation.

Sounds like it's broken. Time for a warranty repair.

 

[Snakes709]

Not much on the work order but here it is

 

[Gman]

...and there you go. Plug in the condenser leaked and allowed the freon to escape = no AC. Once it's fixed, let us know how it performs.

 

[silverbullet]

Tfl truck released a video comparison between ram and Ford a/c performance... You'll never guess... Lol
I wonder if this will shut that one guy up that keeps ****ting on our a/c issues

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk

 

[Gman]

I can't find a specific link on TFLTruck's YouTube channel. Got a link?

 

[dutchman187]

I can't find a specific link on TFLTruck's YouTube channel. Got a link?

See if that works

 

[Gman]

OK, was on TFLnow. No wonder I couldn't find it. Thanks.

Sheesh. Drive the damn trucks. Checking AC performance at idle? Do both trucks have the same cooling fans pulling the air through the condensors? My truck AC is much cooler as it's moving.

 

[BeauxXL1200]

OK, was on TFLnow. No wonder I couldn't find it. Thanks.

Sheesh. Drive the **** trucks. Checking AC performance at idle? Do both trucks have the same cooling fans pulling the air through the condensors? My truck AC is much cooler as it's moving.

Driving mine doesn’t make a difference. If the hose isn’t clamped off, it will only blow about 53 degree air out the center, driver’s side vent. With hose clamped off, it blows about 44 degrees, which is tolerable.

 

[KcRay]

OK, was on TFLnow. No wonder I couldn't find it. Thanks.

Sheesh. Drive the **** trucks. Checking AC performance at idle? Do both trucks have the same cooling fans pulling the air through the condensors? My truck AC is much cooler as it's moving.

Man that pudding is so much better with "proof" in it! That is a good controlled test, driving the trucks would not be as controlled. Driving styles, acceleration, gearing and rpms would all be different. FCA should be embarrassed.