5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Air conditioning Hack

I redid it this morning. Got 51.3 driver's side and 44 passenger side. Less than one degree change after clamping.

I am not clamping the whole house as tightly closed as I can. I figured clamping mostly closed would reduce temps. Am I not clamping enough to make a difference? I am cautious not to damage anything, hose or system. The OP method would be a full closure so maybe I am not going far enough. Thoughts?
When I first put the clamp on, I didn’t completely close off the hose and the temps really didn’t come down. I then tightened the clamp all the way down, and the driver’s side front vent now blows about 44 to 45. Before clamping, it blew about 52 to 53 degrees.
 
What trim / which HVAC system do you have? If its the manual A/C, then this is normal, if it's Climate Control and you have it on Auto this is not normal.
I Have a Bighorn 5.7 level 2 package, I always run it on manual at lowest it will go with the fan on 1 or 2 but it does have an Auto feature?? I've never used it on auto should I...?? Truck was built in Feb. 2019.
 
I Have a Bighorn 5.7 level 2 package, I always run it on manual at lowest it will go with the fan on 1 or 2 but it does have an Auto feature?? I've never used it on auto should I...?? Truck was built in Feb. 2019.

The auto setting will mitigate the condensation on the windshield on its own (for the most part). You're running the truck in manual a/c, so it can't vary the airflow, and condensation is forming in the warm spot
 
The auto setting will mitigate the condensation on the windshield on its own (for the most part). You're running the truck in manual a/c, so it can't vary the airflow, and condensation is forming in the warm spot

I see but it only blows on high in auto??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I see but it only blows on high in auto??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's because you have the temp set to Lo. You're essentially telling it "give me all you got" all the time. If you pick a temp number the system will automatically adjust fan speed, blend door mix, and vent mix all on its own.That's what it's for.
 
So the dealer said they found a leaking schrader valve on the liquid line. Is that the high or low side?

My guess is that’s not going to be the issue.
I see some fluid clamps in my future.
 
So the dealer said they found a leaking schrader valve on the liquid line. Is that the high or low side?

My guess is that’s not going to be the issue.
I see some fluid clamps in my future.
The smaller warm to the the touch line is the high pressure line (aka...liquid line, discharge line). Commonly it is not insulated.
 
The smaller warm to the the touch line is the high pressure line (aka...liquid line, discharge line). Commonly it is not insulated.
I can report that the repair has helped but its still not cold like the 2019 classic they gave me as a rental. Air vent temps are now around 55 degrees instead of 60 when idling. They go down while driving but go back up when I have to idle at all. The dealership did show me the spec sheet and 55 is in spec.
 
When I first put the clamp on, I didn’t completely close off the hose and the temps really didn’t come down. I then tightened the clamp all the way down, and the driver’s side front vent now blows about 44 to 45. Before clamping, it blew about 52 to 53 degrees.


After reading this, I went in and took the clamp off and added the valve. I did feel a difference, the AC is not blowing as hard to keep up with the temp.29707
 
Just found out online that O'Reillys stocks the same 84706 valve if you can't find it at Advance (mine was out). I'll be picking one up in the morning.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
OK, thank you.
And for those of you that notice that valve is 3/4" Pex ball valve, it is actually a perfect fit for 5/8" ID heater hose. Apparently PEX hose goes by OD dimensions so 3/4" is outside measurement of PEX. Here is my plan to actually use 2 valves so I have complete bypass control of heater coolant flow. Perform at your own risk but don't cut the factory heater hose so you can return to stock in future without a trace. Just buy a foot or so of 5/8" from local auto parts store.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3083.jpg
    IMG_3083.jpg
    92.9 KB · Views: 103
And for those of you that notice that valve is 3/4" Pex ball valve, it is actually a perfect fit for 5/8" ID heater hose. Apparently PEX hose goes by OD dimensions so 3/4" is outside measurement of PEX. Here is my plan to actually use 2 valves so I have complete bypass control of heater coolant flow. Perform at your own risk but don't cut the factory heater hose so you can return to stock in future without a trace. Just buy a foot or so of 5/8" from local auto parts store.

You have posted that plan a thousand times, when are you going to do it? LOL
 
Sorry if this is posted above but those using the 84706 valve, are you totally closed off or cracked open? If so how many turns? It's hard to see how many turns would allow some flow.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Mine is closed all the way and stays closed. It gets so cold now that the airflow coming from the drivers left starts to numb my hands.
 
Got the valve in. My engine out hose was unmarked for whatever reason and it would not budge no matter the amount of twisting, pulling or cursing involved. I had to cut a 1/2" slit at the end, work it off and then cut it flush. I doubt anyone will notice if I go back to stock.

It was an immediate success! I got the following results after testing. I was interested in how much heat we could also get out of the system with the valve in different positions for some reasons ppl mentioned above so tested that as well.

Conditions - 84F ambient, 85% humidity, truck in the garage, garage doors open, engine at 1000 RPM, Max AC, recirc on

Temp readings below taken from left to right. Heat testing done in drivers center vent only.

Stock Max AC
51 53 45 46

Valve full closed Max AC
45 44 44 46

Valve full closed Max heat
Ambient

Valve one turn open Max AC
46 45 44 46

Valve one turn open Max Heat
Ambient +5F

Valve two turns open Max AC
46 45 44 46

Valve two turns open Max Heat
Ambient +20F

I repeated the above test at two turns open twice with the same result and stopped there leaving the valve at that position.

I thought it was pretty interesting I could get from 45F to 104F in about 5 minutes and then back down in another 5.





Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You have posted that plan a thousand times, when are you going to do it? LOL
Fair response...lol. ("Tough crowd" .....like Rodney Dangerfield use to say) We have had a cool summer so far in Portland, Oregon so I have been dragging my feet as there are now 3 recalls due on my truck and squeaky console lid. (airbag, steering ground, etc) Thinking I should get it to dealer before adding the valves. Mine is one of the better stock AC trucks with 52 from drivers center. :cool:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top