Air conditioning Hack

[kliffy77]

Did the clamps yesterday absolutely works! aprox 20% improvement In AC performance, Shame having to do this to a $60K new truck!

 

[turkeybird56]

I have the thermal axle and there's an electric valve that splits the incoming coolant to go to the heater core and to the rear diff. It looks like flow to the rear diff is secondary to the heater core, but if the valve to the heater core is not closing all the way then this could be part of the issue. I found one article on this system but it doesn't state if there's isn't demand for heat then the heater core valve will shut. The assumption is it would close otherwise why have the valve, but it could just tee off the heater line and only open/close for the diff. It looks like it's part "Coolant 3 Way Valve - Mopar (68309834AC)". My AC is running at 50 deg. 2020 Laramie Ecodiesel

I could clamp above the valve but are there any thoughts on this or how it's supposed to work?

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The ED's, and the V6's are set up a lil diff, and PPL may need to research for best outcome. I have the Hemi and can only have an opinion for the V8. SOMEBODY who is a Good Mechanic and understands the differences on these system needs to CHIME in. Apparently depending upon truck, engine and rear axle there is the coolant line going to the rear end. SO where U may do a hack could have a Huge Impact, so do all at yer Own Risk. BOIRD not mechanic, just a driveway wonder, LOL. I am wondering, since I have not looked at the V 6's, if their is still a HCV installed in there like there was on MY 15 ED which I no longer have.

 

[turkeybird56]

Did the clamps yesterday absolutely works! aprox 20% improvement In AC performance, Shame having to do this to a $60K new truck!

If I clamp down all the way, I can get 40 degree AC. I have partially clamped, getting 44-47 AC, want a lil flow through core.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

Screw all you guys who said "only lost an ounce or two of fluid"! Did this to mine yesterday, and there was quite a bit of coolant in the lines, even with the one from the heater core clamped temporarily!

Not serious about the first sentence above. But seriously, it lost a little bit of fluid, I'd say at least a few ounces or more. May add a little bit to my reserve tank to make up for it.

 

[kliffy77]

Any side effect to clamping down the hose?

 

[turkeybird56]

Any side effect to clamping down the hose?

Not that has been reported and none that I know of. I am getting ready to order T-valve to put in there so not have to "clamp" hose.

Side effects: 40-47 degree vent air as opposed to 55-57 degree vent air

 

[Duran]

Not that has been reported and none that I know of. I am getting ready to order T-valve to put in there so not have to "clamp" hose.

Side effects: 40-47 degree vent air as opposed to 55-57 degree vent air

Omg that sounds great. Please post pics and whats the size of the hose.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

Omg that sounds great. Please post pics and whats the size of the hose.

If you look earlier in the thread, there are pics and hose sizes.
5/8"

Unless I'm mistaken on my definition of a T-valve.

 

[turkeybird56]

If you look earlier in the thread, there are pics and hose sizes.
5/8"

Unless I'm mistaken on my definition of a T-valve.

Where I am from, wat I/we would call it. Posted pic of 1 possible alternative, which is valve and all I ordered. Also posted pic of clamp method (Harbor Freight Line Clamp) for a temp fix till I get ordered parts to put in line.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

Where I am from, wat I/we would call it. Posted pic of 1 possible alternative, which is valve and all I ordered. Also posted pic of clamp method (Harbor Freight Line Clamp) for a temp fix till I get ordered parts to put in line.
View attachment 65099
View attachment 65100

Yup! I used the Murray climate control one referenced earlier in this thread, rather than the one you show here, but they both do the same thing. The ball valve one you have there is probably a better made unit.

 

[turkeybird56]

Yup! I used the Murray climate control one referenced earlier in this thread, rather than the one you show here, but they both do the same thing. The ball valve one you have there is probably a better made unit.

DUNNO, lol, not got yet. Just ordered today from Amazon. SO when all comes in, guess I'll have a lil project. For now, clamp work. Friggin temps, well it is TX. Other day in field loading hay was 102, that was on Sat. Today, I am paying for it, LOL... PIC showing temp setup with clamp, note "piece" of shirt wrapped on line under clamp, thought it gave the hack some style, ROFLMAO.....

 

[Duran]

If you look earlier in the thread, there are pics and hose sizes.
5/8"

Unless I'm mistaken on my definition of a T-valve.

Great cant wait to get to it . It get 112 here

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

Great cant wait to get to it . It get 112 here

If you go with a PEX route like turkeybird did, the valve will be a different size, as he showed.

 

[Duran]

If you go with a PEX route like turkeybird did, the valve will be a different size, as he showed.

That valve was at a 1/2 inch. The stock hose is what a 5/8th

 

[ColoradoCub]

Screw all you guys who said "only lost an ounce or two of fluid"! Did this to mine yesterday, and there was quite a bit of coolant in the lines, even with the one from the heater core clamped temporarily!

Not serious about the first sentence above. But seriously, it lost a little bit of fluid, I'd say at least a few ounces or more. May add a little bit to my reserve tank to make up for it.

Ive installed the valve on two separate 5th gen rams now. The trick to not losing any coolant is to clamp the hose that goes the heater core, then attach your new piece of hose to the new valve with clamp tight around valve and clamp loose around water pump tube end of hose and make sure valve is closed. Yank the hose off the water pump tube and quickly slip the valve with hose on the tube. If done this way you can prevent much leakage. Do not do this when the engine is hot or warm!

 

[turkeybird56]

Ive installed the valve on two separate 5th gen rams now. The trick to not losing any coolant is to clamp the hose that goes the heater core, then attach your new piece of hose to the new valve with clamp tight around valve and clamp loose around water pump tube end of hose and make sure valve is closed. Yank the hose off the water pump tube and quickly slip the valve with hose on the tube. If done this way you can prevent much leakage. Do not do this when the engine is hot or warm!

Hee hee, one would think PPL R smart enuf to do on an engine that has cooled, sat overnight, not run so pressures not built up, LOL.....

I have the parts ordered, valve and such, just waiting for all to be shipped and arrive so I can go outside and play real quick and change out clamp for manual valve. Waiting for FCA to figure out they screwed up, and come up with a repair., ie., put in a powered valve with rerouting, well U know that not gonna happen, since they removed the HCV used up to 2018. Now, I talked to a guy who has a 2019 DS, and Valve still there, so it was the redesign where they removed the HCV. Attach picture of HCV used up to 2018.

 

[Duran]

Ive installed the valve on two separate 5th gen rams now. The trick to not losing any coolant is to clamp the hose that goes the heater core, then attach your new piece of hose to the new valve with clamp tight around valve and clamp loose around water pump tube end of hose and make sure valve is closed. Yank the hose off the water pump tube and quickly slip the valve with hose on the tube. If done this way you can prevent much leakage. Do not do this when the engine is hot or warm!

Any pics of the process and a parts used would be greatly appreciated

 

[slicktop]

Can anyone identify what would plug in to this portion of this panel? I'm thinking of locating the switch for my solenoid valve in this location, but I don't want to screw myself later down the line if there's an upgrade that goes here that I may want. Thanks in advance!

 

[ColoradoCub]

Any pics of the process and a parts used would be greatly appreciated

theres 49 pages of pictures and parts list in this thread. Go to the original post.

 

[slicktop]

Finished swapping the manual valve for a solenoid last night. It took entirely too long, due in part to it being pitch dark outside and it taking forever for me to find a suitable switched hot circuit. Anyhow, for your viewing pleasure:




A humid August night is probably the worst time possible to do this, but when it FINALLY cools off here and I need heat, it'll be nice to just flick the switch and not have to pop the hood. Thanks to everyone on here for the inspiration!