Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
[/QUOTE]
Really great trucks, sucky AC. Do the hack and enjoy that truck!
Do you have a pic of the valve and set up
Nice hook up. You crimped off the hose on two sides before cutting into it and putting in the valve??
The last time I had a leaking heater core, was in my wife's 1990 Chevy Lumina V6 FWD. I just bypassed and looped hose till I had the time, money and the 4 hours of swearing to pull all dat chit apart, come along motor to front, replace heater core and put all back. WAT a major PITA....Went to Harbor Freight and bought their fluid line clamp set with the ubiquitous 20% off coupon and installed it in literally 30 seconds. Six bucks. Even with residual 200F coolant in the heater core it brought the right vent temp down. I saw as low as 40F during a 20 minute drive. Low 90s ambient here today. Cheap fix. 30 seconds to reverse with no tools.
FWIW, Ram is never going to fix this problem, so why wait. How could they really fix it? What are they going to do... redesign the HVAC system on a million trucks in service?
What puzzles me is that this blocking-the-heater-core solution is not uncommon (looking at all the reviews on these valves and clamps being used just like this: to cut-off flow to heater cores for lots of vehicles). You'd think there'd be a universal design approach after 100 years of liquid cooled thermal-engined vehicles to get the heat or even the heater core out of the cabin when cabin heating is not needed. And who among us a half century old or older hasn't faced the issue of heater core problems or inaccessible heater cores leaking in history. Sorry, for the mini rant. At least the AC is cool now! Not quite in the upper 30s as I've noted in my other cars, but close.
View attachment 26151View attachment 26152
Used a clamp on the stock heater hose, like a wood working clamp. Had the short hose on the valve already (valve closed), pulled stock hose off and shoved the valve and hose on to where the stock hose was. Lost maybe an ounce or two of fluid. This is a really easy mod, just have everything in place and ready to go. The hardest part is bending over and reaching everything, LOL
I have the valve and the switch on my desk and plan on changing out my manual valve to the solenoid this weekend. Any chance I could get a pic of where you installed your switch? I was thinking below the power pedal adjustment switch, but I'd love to see what you did before I go drilling holes. Also, where exactly did you pull power from?
www.motor.com
I have the thermal axle and there's an electric valve that splits the incoming coolant to go to the heater core and to the rear diff. It looks like flow to the rear diff is secondary to the heater core, but if the valve to the heater core is not closing all the way then this could be part of the issue. I found one article on this system but it doesn't state if there's isn't demand for heat then the heater core valve will shut. The assumption is it would close otherwise why have the valve, but it could just tee off the heater line and only open/close for the diff. It looks like it's part "Coolant 3 Way Valve - Mopar (68309834AC)". My AC is running at 50 deg. 2020 Laramie Ecodiesel
I could clamp above the valve but are there any thoughts on this or how it's supposed to work?
'Bright Idea' For Short Detection | MOTOR
How many times have you had customers bring their vehicles in for electrical problems? I’m sure this happens quite frequently. Of course, when an
Ok i see what your saying. The stock hose got pulled off . Then you installed the end of the valve with the hose on the condenser. And the stock hose went on the other end of the valve. And problem loosing that amount of fluid. And thanks for the detail
I would like to know about the E Torque as well
