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Air conditioning Hack

Regardless of the maker, the ingenuity of our forum members is higher than their engineers. Bravo to hacks like this.
Now that cooler weather is starting here in the East, I will wait till late next spring to do this if its still needed. That gives RAM time to step up.
Course Ford never stepped up in like 5 years on their cooled seats issues...I might have a long hot wait!
 
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Did any of you with valve hack noticed that air blows with less force and sound with valve closed vs. Open valve for the same blower speed?
 
Did any of you with valve hack noticed that air blows with less force and sound with valve closed vs. Open valve for the same blower speed?

I haven't noticed that. Of course the valve alters air temperature but not blower pressure/speed.

However sometimes it seems there's a sw bug with the fan blower control. Specifically, after first getting into the truck with a/c on and with fan blower set to max the blower goes to a slower blower speed after viewing the blower control level. Things that make you go hmmm.
 
After unusually high temperatures I'm a bit fed up with the AC but I'd really like it to be able to open and close the valve from the cab. I went out the other night time and wanted the heating on so it would have been a nuisance to stop and open the valve under the bonnet.

I'm thinking of fitting an electric valve with dash switch so I can have it fully closed for my own version of MAX AC or open to use the AC/heater as normal:

I think this should work OK as designed for auto use with anti-freeze but I'm a bit nervous that it can only handle temps of 110C/230F.
Around 210F seems to be around half way up the gauge, I'm not sure how linear the gauge is but if the engine did start getting hot the max of 230 doesn't sound that high and if the valve melted it would be a disaster.

Any thoughts please?
 
Question for those that have dealt with the dealer on this issue? Has anyone ever had the dealer calibrate the blend door actuator? It is common, when a blend door actuator is replaced, the dealer will have to calibrate it. Otherwise, the settings will be off. I wonder if it's possible that the blend door actuators were installed incorrectly at the factory, or were not calibrated correctly. This would explain why heat is getting in, when the blend door should be shut completely.
 
After unusually high temperatures I'm a bit fed up with the AC but I'd really like it to be able to open and close the valve from the cab. I went out the other night time and wanted the heating on so it would have been a nuisance to stop and open the valve under the bonnet.

I'm thinking of fitting an electric valve with dash switch so I can have it fully closed for my own version of MAX AC or open to use the AC/heater as normal:

I think this should work OK as designed for auto use with anti-freeze but I'm a bit nervous that it can only handle temps of 110C/230F.
Around 210F seems to be around half way up the gauge, I'm not sure how linear the gauge is but if the engine did start getting hot the max of 230 doesn't sound that high and if the valve melted it would be a disaster.

Any thoughts please?
I'd probably go with this one, as it's specifically designed to control coolant flow to/from a heater core - so I doubt it'll melt down:

Simple 3-wire hookup - black to ground, red to a switched +12V supply, and blue to your in-cab switch (which is also wired to a +12V feed).
 
I'd probably go with this one, as it's specifically designed to control coolant flow to/from a heater core - so I doubt it'll melt down:

Simple 3-wire hookup - black to ground, red to a switched +12V supply, and blue to your in-cab switch (which is also wired to a +12V feed).

And it uses 5/8 heater hose which makes it even better.
 
I'd probably go with this one, as it's specifically designed to control coolant flow to/from a heater core - so I doubt it'll melt down:

Simple 3-wire hookup - black to ground, red to a switched +12V supply, and blue to your in-cab switch (which is also wired to a +12V feed).
And it uses 5/8 heater hose which makes it even better.
Thanks for the replies, I was trying to find one the UK to avoid import, its probably best Summit isn't in the UK or I'd have bought an engine for a reject car and all sorts by now :D
I haven't done any heavy towing to see what difference that will make but I've had a read of this thread and think I was being a bit overly cautious and should be OK with 230F.

Pretty busy with work unfortunately so won't have time to do it soon but will post up how I get on if/when I do.
 
So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.
 
So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.

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So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.

Your tech/dealership seems to be the most thorough yet on this matter. I bet you are correct regarding the design snafu. Stock blending heavily favors the heater core or the hot water isn't isolated from the cool air path. It's hard imagine how this craptastic effort made the 2019 production let alone 2020.
 
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So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.



Pull the dash ..WOW!

I turned my valve to open last week and my truck sat outside in the sun all morning. I drove about a half a mile before I pulled over and shut it. Yea the AC sucks. Of course it had to cool the black interior down but knew it was going to be a while. I'll open it back up at the end of month once we are clear of the heat.
 
So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.
If you are not willing to pull the dash, can you ask them to recalibrate the blend door actuator. I have not heard of any dealer performing this yet. It could be a simple fix.
 
So my truck is back at the dealership for the AC again, they finally decided to clamp off the heater core and confirm the AC temps. 38 at the compressor and 43 at the vents. They said this proves that there is something going on in the plenum (airbox) they want to pull the dash and check but with no codes from the BCM and the dozens of people on here with the same exact issue it would seem to me that its a design issue more than a faulty part. I dont think I am going to let them pull the dash.
I would ask if they can snake a camera on a cable down into the plenum before the dash gets pulled apart. Take the air cleaner out behind the glove box and enter from there. Shine a light up from the floor vent on the driver's side. If you can see light from below, good chance that will point in the direction of the fix.

Someone correct me if I wrong here. I thought I read or saw a diagram that puts the actuator arms on the back side of the plenums. Is there enough clearance between the firewall and plenum. Some trucks don't seem to have a problem, other's of us do.

The cameras that blue tooth to a phone or iPad are under $50. I bought one just for this, but it will not connect. I'm going round and round with the manufacturer at this very moment. Go figure!
 
i think we can confidently confirm that there is no question this is a design flaw. it will never get fixed by fca until the 6th gen comes out, or they somehow can miraculously come up with a band-aid similar to the valve, but then that would point the fingers directly at fca. so my uneducated guess is not a peep from the mouths of fca no tsb, and certainly no recall affecting the entire fleet from the 1st born to the current one. i hope i'm wrong, but i doubt it.
 

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