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Adding passive entry

Antenna: 52112203AB
I can send you instructions on where to tap (Two wires) into the rear-bumper body harness. Very easy and will save you a bunch of money and time looking for the right harness...
I was just messaging MahemMOORE about this- wondering if the antenna wires are populated all the way up to the rear facia connector with the lever? If so, I have the part numbers for those terminals and for the antenna connector and terminals. Very simple for anyone to make, and no different than factory.
 
I was just messaging MahemMOORE about this- wondering if the antenna wires are populated all the way up to the rear facia connector with the lever? If so, I have the part numbers for those terminals and for the antenna connector and terminals. Very simple for anyone to make, and no different than factory.
Yeah, you have the wiring at the main bumper connector. Can you send me the part #s for the terminals and connectors?
 
I was just messaging MahemMOORE about this- wondering if the antenna wires are populated all the way up to the rear facia connector with the lever? If so, I have the part numbers for those terminals and for the antenna connector and terminals. Very simple for anyone to make, and no different than factory.
These are terminal numbers
19 All Variants D928GY / DG0.35PASSIVE ENTRY ANTENNA 5 SIGNAL
20 All Variants D929GY / GN0.35PASSIVE ENTRY ANTENNA 5 RETURN

Courtesy of my man, Swifty :D
 
These are terminal numbers
19 All Variants D928GY / DG0.35PASSIVE ENTRY ANTENNA 5 SIGNAL
20 All Variants D929GY / GN0.35PASSIVE ENTRY ANTENNA 5 RETURN

Courtesy of my man, Swifty :D
Those two are TE Connectivity 1241380-1. The wire seals for them are 963530-1. The antenna connector is TE Connectivity 1-1438608-5. The terminals for the antenna connector are 1355717-1. The same wire seal above should work for those terminals, also.
 
I believe @MannyHen has been helping out some people with that as he seems to have a good way to get them via your VIN. Might try sending him a message directly and see if he can help you out.


And as @Jimmy07 mentioned, we are working back and forth trying to figure out the issue with fobiksafe to save everyone some headache, and he's been an indispensable help in this venture. The actual passive entry side of things works as intended; fob in pocket, grab handle, door unlocks, open door, get in, start the truck and drive away. It's the fobiksafe side that isn't quite right. For those of us that are accustomed to locking the door from the inside as we exit the vehicle, if you do so as you're used to, as soon as the door closes you get the 3 honks as it auto-unlocks. It doesn't matter if both fobs (or however many you have programmed), one fob, or no fobs are in or out of the cab, it still triggers the fobik safe. He believes, and it makes sense, that this is due to a system fault of not having the 5th antenna present (behind the rear license plate). This makes sense as we confirmed an error code present related to it.

So I will second the request to anyone who has had this feature enabled via the sales code addition from FCA and a had a dealership perform the restore process, but you did not add the 5th antenna...if you could please confirm whether or not you get the fobiksafe alert when you shut off the truck, open the door, step out with fob in hand/pocket, press the interior lock button, then close the door, ensuring the fob is outside the cab.

This will be a great help as I'm hoping that we can have this resolved or at least have a definitive answer before I push out a how-to.

I confirm that I get the alert (3 horn honks and doors unlock) in the scenario you describe (I've got driver door only installed and working - GXD code added and restore complete)

I posted awhile back that I believe the I get the alert because the system has 'errors' and thus is playing it safe by not locking the doors and for me it is logical that installing the other antenna, and possibly handles/sensors, it would then work 'like factory'.
 
I confirm that I get the alert (3 horn honks and doors unlock) in the scenario you describe (I've got driver door only installed and working - GXD code added and restore complete)

I posted awhile back that I believe the I get the alert because the system has 'errors' and thus is playing it safe by not locking the doors and for me it is logical that installing the other antenna, and possibly handles/sensors, it would then work 'like factory'.

Thanks for confirming this. If you have AlfaOBD and would be able to pull the faults from the RF Hub, I'd be curious to see if we are getting the same error code, and if you might be getting any additional ones from the missing handle.
 
Thanks for confirming this. If you have AlfaOBD and would be able to pull the faults from the RF Hub, I'd be curious to see if we are getting the same error code, and if you might be getting any additional ones from the missing handle.

Can also confirm this happens to me. Got everything installed other than the rear antenna.
 
Fobik safe is not a fault. It’s to
Prevent you from locking your fob in your car. My Acura and Chevy do the same thing if you leave the fob inside the car. Turn it off if you want to be able to use the door lock button on the door panel.
 
Fobik safe is not a fault. It’s to
Prevent you from locking your fob in your car. My Acura and Chevy do the same thing if you leave the fob inside the car. Turn it off if you want to be able to use the door lock button on the door panel.
If you turn off fobik safe, yes, the honks will go away, but you will also be able to lock the fob in the truck. This is NOT how a factory passive entry equipped 5th gen Ram (or 4th gen for that matter) operates. There is a failsafe error condition causing this because all the antennae are now not present once passive entry is enabled.
 
If you turn off fobik safe, yes, the honks will go away, but you will also be able to lock the fob in the truck. This is NOT how a factory passive entry equipped 5th gen Ram (or 4th gen for that matter) operates. There is a failsafe error condition causing this because all the antennae are now not present once passive entry is enabled.

So if rear antennae are present then the door lock button can be used? I wouldnt need to use door lock if truck would auto lock after I leave the truck. Is this possible after passive entry is put into place? I am still trying to get wiring harness part # for my 2500
 
So if rear antennae are present then the door lock button can be used? I wouldnt need to use door lock if truck would auto lock after I leave the truck. Is this possible after passive entry is put into place? I am still trying to get wiring harness part # for my 2500

I would imagine the 2500's would function the same as the 1500's. There is no "auto-lock" feature, with or without passive entry, at least in regards to exiting the truck. As it is now, without the rear antenna in place, I can still press the button on the outside door handle once it is closed and it works fine, as well as using the fob to lock. The issue at the moment is when depressing the lock button on the inside door panel. If you do so and then close the door it unlocks immediately and gives 3 chirps of the horn. This is the fobiksafe response due to the fault in the rf hub of not having the last antenna. Hopefully, once the antenna is in place and the code is cleared the whole thing will work as if it was from the factory.
 
First off I would like to thanks all of the people here that have put time in to this project, Very well done! There is a ton of great info here.

Before I go ahead and order the bypass harness, OBDLink MX+ and AlfaOBD, I would like to know, when changes have been made using AlfaOBD, would the dealer be able to tell that I/someone has been in there and made changes even if the bypass has been removed? I wouldn't want the dealer to come back on me and void the warranty. I understand that if I do the Passive Entry mod they will know something is up.
 
Those two are TE Connectivity 1241380-1. The wire seals for them are 963530-1. The antenna connector is TE Connectivity 1-1438608-5. The terminals for the antenna connector are 1355717-1. The same wire seal above should work for those terminals, also.

Y’all lost me there. If anyone wants to detail this when they do this maybe that would help and be greatly appreciated.


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First off I would like to thanks all of the people here that have put time in to this project, Very well done! There is a ton of great info here.

Before I go ahead and order the bypass harness, OBDLink MX+ and AlfaOBD, I would like to know, when changes have been made using AlfaOBD, would the dealer be able to tell that I/someone has been in there and made changes even if the bypass has been removed? I wouldn't want the dealer to come back on me and void the warranty. I understand that if I do the Passive Entry mod they will know something is up.
He will know that you did something unless you install everything, Door Handles/Caps and rear bumper antenna. You'll have trouble codes for non-operational/missing parts if not.
I can't guarantee anything and i don't want to take responsibility but he can't just void your warranty, He won't service your door handles and cylinder for example because you installed it.
Anything you install yourself, They won't touch, It's on you.
That's what my tech told me when i started messing with my truck. Also, When i did the Leveling kit, He told me they can't just not service your truck anymore, they need to prove that your mod caused the problem you have. let's say you have a bad tranny, they can't say it's on you because the truck is leveled, it doesn't make any sense. But if a year after the leveling you have a leaky shock, that's definitely something that your mod can cause...
 
I would imagine the 2500's would function the same as the 1500's. There is no "auto-lock" feature, with or without passive entry, at least in regards to exiting the truck. As it is now, without the rear antenna in place, I can still press the button on the outside door handle once it is closed and it works fine, as well as using the fob to lock. The issue at the moment is when depressing the lock button on the inside door panel. If you do so and then close the door it unlocks immediately and gives 3 chirps of the horn. This is the fobiksafe response due to the fault in the rf hub of not having the last antenna. Hopefully, once the antenna is in place and the code is cleared the whole thing will work as if it was from the factory.
This behavior is due to the error codes, if the system have error codes, it's just not gonna take the chance of you leaving your fob in there and locking yourself out. The RF hub says i can't rely on the other parts because they can give false info too...
 
Y’all lost me there. If anyone wants to detail this when they do this maybe that would help and be greatly appreciated.


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Rather than buy the whole rear facia harness that has the connector for the antenna that mounts behind the license plate, those are the exact same connectors and terminals that FCA uses when they build that harness that includes the two wires for the antenna. Same with the door harnesses- it makes no sense to buy an entire door harness just to gain two wires for the handle, when you can just add them to your existing door harness exactly like factory with the same terminals and connectors. And there is no cutting, splicing or soldering involved.
 
Rather than buy the whole rear facia harness that has the connector for the antenna that mounts behind the license plate, those are the exact same connectors and terminals that FCA uses when they build that harness that includes the two wires for the antenna. Same with the door harnesses- it makes no sense to buy an entire door harness just to gain two wires for the handle, when you can just add them to your existing door harness exactly like factory with the same terminals and connectors. And there is no cutting, splicing or soldering involved.
BUT WHAT IF I LIKE THE CUTTING, SPLICING AND SOLDERING?????? :(
 
BUT WHAT IF I LIKE THE CUTTING, SPLICING AND SOLDERING?????? :(
LOL, that works too! I know some guys are picky about that, and will balk at adding the two wires to the existing door harnesses, but getting the the correct terminals and handle connector is cheap and easy, too, and no different than factory.
 
Rather than buy the whole rear facia harness that has the connector for the antenna that mounts behind the license plate, those are the exact same connectors and terminals that FCA uses when they build that harness that includes the two wires for the antenna. Same with the door harnesses- it makes no sense to buy an entire door harness just to gain two wires for the handle, when you can just add them to your existing door harness exactly like factory with the same terminals and connectors. And there is no cutting, splicing or soldering involved.

Thanks, I should have elaborated my confusion. I understand tapping into the harness vs buying one. I was lost at the part numbers, what and where to spice and where to get all the connections. I’m competent enough to complete the work just need detailed instructions if anyone is able to provide.


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Thanks, I should have elaborated my confusion. I understand tapping into the harness vs buying one. I was lost at the part numbers, what and where to spice and where to get all the connections. I’m competent enough to complete the work just need detailed instructions if anyone is able to provide.


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It will cost you some $$$ ;)
 

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