I didn't. I changed them before I did the doors.Did check to see if the dash was out of phase as well?
Their sound gave me no reason to check them.
They only take about 5 minutes to get out so I may do it tomorrow.
I didn't. I changed them before I did the doors.Did check to see if the dash was out of phase as well?
I didn't. I changed them before I did the doors.
Their sound gave me no reason to check them.
They only take about 5 minutes to get out so I may do it tomorrow.
I have the JBL in the dash to.I was reading somewhere that coaxials may have the tweeter out of phase, but the driver is in phase. Might be the case with the HK’s
When attempting to re-pin, how do you depress the tab, from the front of the harness or the rear? What tool did you use?So I repinned the metra plugs for the doors today.
They were definitely reversed.
Now they sound like they should.
I took a quick drive around the hood, the low rumble seems to be gone. But I was only at 25 mph. Ill see tonight if it fixed that issue.
Am I the only one that the JBL dash speakers dropped right in for? I did no trimming. Just a little wiggle to get them in. They do have to go in a certain direction. If they dont for, turn is 180 and try again.
When attempting to re-pin, how do you depress the tab, from the front of the harness or the rear? What tool did you use?
Sorry, I was actually referring to the GX305's and the Metra harnesses for the dash speakers. Does the same process apply?I have a really fine point punch. You could probably use a needle or paperclip
If you go in from the side that you can the the pins, insert on top of the pin.
The top of the plug has the extra hole on top
The just pull out the wire.
There is a small tab that you are pushing down on top of the pin.
That's a bad way of explaining, but I don't know the proper terms.
It's really not that hard.
Took me about 20 minutes to get both door panels off, repin the pulg and get it back together
I would assume so.Sorry, I was actually referring to the GX305's and the Metra harnesses for the dash speakers. Does the same process apply?
Ok, I had a bear of a time figuring this out, bring a flashlight and maybe reading glassess!When attempting to re-pin, how do you depress the tab, from the front of the harness or the rear? What tool did you use?
Ok, I had a bear of a time figuring this out, bring a flashlight and maybe reading glassess!
After prying up the “pin lock bar”...
View attachment 9612
Use a straight pin...
View attachment 9613
Place it where I drew the red arrow, in order to pry (gently) the little plastic tab in the direction of the blue arrow to release the “foot” of the pin.
View attachment 9614
See last picture for how the plastic tab holds the pin. My art skillz need work but hopefully you get the point!
View attachment 9615
Thx for the feedback, but nothing I've tried will release the pin. I have used the smallest allen wrench I have, a watch repair screw driver, etc... It's driving my crazy.Ok, I had a bear of a time figuring this out, bring a flashlight and maybe reading glassess!
After prying up the “pin lock bar”...
View attachment 9612
Use a straight pin...
View attachment 9613
Place it where I drew the red arrow, in order to pry (gently) the little plastic tab in the direction of the blue arrow to release the “foot” of the pin.
View attachment 9614
See last picture for how the plastic tab holds the pin. My art skillz need work but hopefully you get the point!
View attachment 9615
I disco’d the ANC until I can get it into the shop. I also had to repin my front left signal since that corner was wired out of phase.Did you repin your speakers at the amp connector? Or did you disconnect the ANC?
You’ve gotta have a point on the tip to grab the teeny weeny plastic tab, without deforming it too... use a sewing pin or needle... carefully!Thx for the feedback, but nothing I've tried will release the pin. I have used the smallest allen wrench I have, a watch repair screw driver, etc... It's driving my crazy.
Nicely done... the work AND your diagram.For anyone looking to make changes to the Alpine system. I traced everything out and the phases are reversed at the speakers themselves in all 4 doors I have attached a schematic with the connector layout. I swapped all 4 door speakers with JBL GX962 and used road kill on the inside of the door skin of all four door skins directly behind the speakers. I made some foam rings out of 1-1/4" AC foam from home depot ($1.98 each) and 3M double stick tape. Then road killed the backside of the all the door panels. Mid base response was greatly improved. The JBL's in the front doors are much tighter and more accurate than the factory speakers and compliment the GX302s in the dash nicely the rear doors or just fills, ideally you shouldn't hear them from the front seat which I was hearing more highs from behind me because of the tweeter in the JBL that's not there in the factory speakers. Faded the system to the front a few notches to reduce it. Going to run it like this for a while but ultimately I will probably replace all 4 doors with CDT audio CL-69S.2.
Did you repin your speakers at the amp connector? Or did you disconnect the ANC?
Oh baby! Check out the surround... that is some excursion.Ultimax 10" underseat
Awesome! Glad to hear the front doors sound better and I will go ahead with my GX963s there as well. I hopefully will have the time this weekend to switch everything out. The dash speakers were out of phase as well correct? I haven't had a chance to pull them back out yet to test.For anyone looking to make changes to the Alpine system. I traced everything out and the phases are reversed at the speakers themselves in all 4 doors I have attached a schematic with the connector layout. I swapped all 4 door speakers with JBL GX962 and used road kill on the inside of the door skin of all four door skins directly behind the speakers. I made some foam rings out of 1-1/4" AC foam from home depot ($1.98 each) and 3M double stick tape. Then road killed the backside of the all the door panels. Mid base response was greatly improved. The JBL's in the front doors are much tighter and more accurate than the factory speakers and compliment the GX302s in the dash nicely the rear doors or just fills, ideally you shouldn't hear them from the front seat which I was hearing more highs from behind me because of the tweeter in the JBL that's not there in the factory speakers. Faded the system to the front a few notches to reduce it. Going to run it like this for a while but ultimately I will probably replace all 4 doors with CDT audio CL-69S.2.
I think so, I checked the factory speakers, but ended up doing the work at my family's place out of town and didn't take a factory speaker with me to verify and was going off memory, the metra connector was for sure backwards from the factory leads but I wasn't sure if the factory speakers were in phase or not, I repinned the metras to match the wiring polarity, I need to check the voice coil on the stock speaker to verify it matches. Either way I don't think the 3.5s matter as much on the alpine as they dont participate in the ANC, it's more critical on the 6 speaker system because they are wired in parallel with the front doors.Awesome! Glad to hear the front doors sound better and I will go ahead with my GX963s there as well. I hopefully will have the time this weekend to switch everything out. The dash speakers were out of phase as well correct? I haven't had a chance to pull them back out yet to test.