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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I am in agreement with @Billet1500 4x4 regarding the post-speaker swap ANC problems being caused by polarity problems... and I also believe the vehicle wiring has something to do with it as I had ANC problems before swapping anything.

Recap: I swapped all six base system speakers using Metra harnesses, connecting the positive white lead to what was supposed to be the positive truck wires, and have found polarity mismatches around the cab.

Using a program called “Speaker Pop” on my iPhone (buggy but it works) I confirmed I have two speakers in-phase (right doors) and four out of phase (entire left side, plus the right dash). I will report my findings after confirming all six speakers are in phase and the ANC is reconnected.

FYI regarding releasing pins from connectors, although I used a sewing straight pin, you can buy little tools that release those pins safely without damage. The tools vary in size, not sure which one is correct for the amp connector under the seat but it would be small, around 1mm-ish.
 
I working on a sub setup now. I'm hoping the ac will not be an issue. I'm doing a single 10" dvc ultimax in 1 cft ported under the passenger rear seat. At 1st I'm going to run 2 channels from the stock alpine amp to the ultimax and the 3rd to one of the coils on the stock sub. I want to experiment with the anc running both. After I'm done experimentin with the stock amp I'll be installing a sundown 1500 on the ultimax 10"
 
I am in agreement with @Billet1500 4x4 regarding the post-speaker swap ANC problems being caused by polarity problems... and I also believe the vehicle wiring has something to do with it as I had ANC problems before swapping anything.

Recap: I swapped all six base system speakers using Metra harnesses, connecting the positive white lead to what was supposed to be the positive truck wires, and have found polarity mismatches around the cab.

Using a program called “Speaker Pop” on my iPhone (buggy but it works) I confirmed I have two speakers in-phase (right doors) and four out of phase (entire left side, plus the right dash). I will report my findings after confirming all six speakers are in phase and the ANC is reconnected.

FYI regarding releasing pins from connectors, although I used a sewing straight pin, you can buy little tools that release those pins safely without damage. The tools vary in size, not sure which one is correct for the amp connector under the seat but it would be small, around 1mm-ish.


I'm going to get to this soon.
How can I check to make sure the wiring is correct before putting everything back together?
 
I'm going to get to this soon.
How can I check to make sure the wiring is correct before putting everything back together?
When in doubt, you can use a battery (like a double or triple a) to test polarity. Plus to positive wire, minus to negative wire, touch briefly. The speaker should pop forwards if the polarity is correct, otherwise it will move inwards.
 
Do you mean coming out of the amp? How to make sure what is positive and what is negative?
 
Do you mean coming out of the amp? How to make sure what is positive and what is negative?
Yes.
Seems like everone is different.
I'm doing the front doors first. The dask speakers seem fine.
 
Do you mean coming out of the amp? How to make sure what is positive and what is negative?
I sort of jumped into this midstream - but I believe the context is that the plug polarity on the Metra adapters going to the speakers is backwards... that can be tested using a small battery. Always good to double-check speaker polarity that way, even you ran your own wiring.

Also, you can always test the system out with the speakers hanging out of the doors, door panels off, etc. before you button it all back up.
 
It’s been awhile since I was in this stuff so I may have lost some knowledge. I think if you play a test tone like 1khz, use multi-meter on AC volts, that if in polarity the reading will be positive and if not the volts will read negative at the plug to the speaker (unhooked) or the amp outputs.

Again, it’s been a long time, but seems that’s what we did. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
 
Do you mean coming out of the amp? How to make sure what is positive and what is negative?
The battery test tells you which terminal on the speaker is positive.

We normally trust the labels on our amps, and the markings on the wires to tell us the polarity of the amp signal. Since I am questioning the wiring coming out of the amp under the seat, I bought a $5 app call Speaker Pop which sends a test “pop” from my iPhone, through the radio/amp, and out the speaker which is then recorded by the microphone... if the timing and profile of the pop sound matches then the program tells you it is “+” in phase. If it doesn’t match it tells you “-“ out of phase. So now I know 4 of my 6 speakers are out of phase for some reason. I’m going to try and get all my speakers in phase, then I’ll test, probably this week sometime. Will tell y’all what I learn.
 
Do you mean coming out of the amp? How to make sure what is positive and what is negative?
Just match polarity at the speaker you can do this with a 9v battery. make sure whatever is positive on the stock speaker is connected to the positive on your replacement speakers, if you need to repin do it with the Metra adapter, I didn't touch any of the factory wiring, just repinned the Metra as needed.

 
The battery test tells you which terminal on the speaker is positive.

We normally trust the labels on our amps, and the markings on the wires to tell us the polarity of the amp signal. Since I am questioning the wiring coming out of the amp under the seat, I bought a $5 app call Speaker Pop which sends a test “pop” from my iPhone, through the radio/amp, and out the speaker which is then recorded by the microphone... if the timing and profile of the pop sound matches then the program tells you it is “+” in phase. If it doesn’t match it tells you “-“ out of phase. So now I know 4 of my 6 speakers are out of phase for some reason. I’m going to try and get all my speakers in phase, then I’ll test, probably this week sometime. Will tell y’all what I learn.

I can’t find that app. It’s in the Apple App Store called “Speaker Pop”? I like the idea of this amp for verifying factory speaker wire out of the amp to ensure the OEM side is right.
 
It’s been awhile since I was in this stuff so I may have lost some knowledge. I think if you play a test tone like 1khz, use multi-meter on AC volts, that if in polarity the reading will be positive and if not the volts will read negative at the plug to the speaker (unhooked) or the amp outputs.

Again, it’s been a long time, but seems that’s what we did. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
Yeah this would also work if you have a multimeter, just like checking 110v power in your house if you put the positive probe of the meter to ground, I know fluke meters will show a negative voltage measurement.
 
I can’t find that app. It’s in the Apple App Store called “Speaker Pop”? I like the idea of this amp for verifying factory speaker wire out of the amp to ensure the OEM side is right.

I think I found it in my AudioTools app. Wish it would play over Bluetooth and just hold the phone up to the speaker. Cool though!!
 
I am in agreement with @Billet1500 4x4 regarding the post-speaker swap ANC problems being caused by polarity problems... and I also believe the vehicle wiring has something to do with it as I had ANC problems before swapping anything.

Recap: I swapped all six base system speakers using Metra harnesses, connecting the positive white lead to what was supposed to be the positive truck wires, and have found polarity mismatches around the cab.

Using a program called “Speaker Pop” on my iPhone (buggy but it works) I confirmed I have two speakers in-phase (right doors) and four out of phase (entire left side, plus the right dash). I will report my findings after confirming all six speakers are in phase and the ANC is reconnected.

FYI regarding releasing pins from connectors, although I used a sewing straight pin, you can buy little tools that release those pins safely without damage. The tools vary in size, not sure which one is correct for the amp connector under the seat but it would be small, around 1mm-ish.
You have to figure out who makes the connector they used, possibly Molex or maybe an in house design, I have a couple of molex release tools but never messed with the connectors at the amp, GM used a mix of molex and Delphi weather pack so I have a couple Delphi pin tools as well, the pin tools are expensive if you can even figure out which one you need, so I usually just use a pick or needle or whatever gets the job done but in the case of the Delphi the tool is the only thing that would work.
 
I think I found it in my AudioTools app. Wish it would play over Bluetooth and just hold the phone up to the speaker. Cool though!!
Oops sorry, it’s called Speaker Polarity by Andrew Smith - I think the old name was pop. It will play through BT and over CarPlay but it has a weird bug where it also plays your music over the top of the pop sound messing with polarity detection... I avoided this problem by emailing myself the sound file from their website and playing it through my email, then opening the app. Pain but it worked.
 
Does anyone have photos of the HK 3.5’s they took out? Curious to what they look like quality wise.
 
Just match polarity at the speaker you can do this with a 9v battery. make sure whatever is positive on the stock speaker is connected to the positive on your replacement speakers, if you need to repin do it with the Metra adapter, I didn't touch any of the factory wiring, just repinned the Metra as needed.

So, getting ready to replace the headliner speakers, figure'd I would go ahead and repin the adapter which was a pain, but finally got it down. The covers for the rear headliner speakers are TIGHT. Held in by 4 clips, one on each corner. Once you get one pulled out the rest are pretty easy, but the first one is tough. However, it appears the polarity for the headliner speakers are NOT reversed, therefore I repinned the adapter for nothing. Also, mounting the headliner speakers is going to be a pain as there is zero room. The plastic housing around it does not allow you to spin the speaker at all, so the mounting holes do not line up, and as it sits, even if you were going to make new holes, you could only make one in the back. The front part is open for the plug.
 
You guys are right. Using that app, I found the top left dash out of phase and the left bottom door speaker. The top door speaker was in phase and so was the center channel. I have the HK. Must be that way for imaging and timing. I did not check them all. Just those four.

Crazy they would even do that with a built in DSP.
 
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