What ohm speakers did you use for the dash and doors?
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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?
- Thread starter WRH
- Start date
@bluearcade71 Did you or your friend pull new wires to the dash? The drivers side is cake, the passenger side with the A/C has me? I'm ready to go fully active, currently have my basic components (pioneer 6x9 T series) wired in parallel with factory wiring with dash out of phase from woofer just like factory. Made very similar bracket for dash myself. Haven't cut a single factory wire in my system yet!! With my DSP it sounds legit, not great. I now have an additional 4 channel amp! Side Note if you have the 8.4 U Connect with Base and ANC- get the amp pro for seamless integration and a clean single, all the other bypass/loop back/speaker adapter harness's are available- just do a little custom work and soundproofing- plastic doors are a killer for great sound!I use the tweeters (front are Infinity REF-9630cx components). Haven't tried the 3.5''. I have a Kicker Key 200.4 (setup in active 2-way front stage) for the front. The rear doors (Infinity REF-6530cx components) are powered off the factory radio (just for fill). My Sundown SD-4 10 is powered by a Sundown SFB-600D (600 watts @ 1 ohm).
My setup sounds pretty good, as far as I am concerned. Way better than stock, that's for sure.
U
User_63152
Guest
My guy ran new wires to the tweets. My system sounds great. Didn't use an Amp Pro.
I will say that if anyone is using a signal from the front speakers (the rear speaker signal voltage was absolute crap) for a sub, then wire it BEFORE an aftermarket amp (in my case, the Kicker Key 200.4). I had an issue with mine initially. It was wired after the amp, so, I couldn't use the crossover in the Kicker Key because it was cutting the low frequencies to my sub. Switched it to before the amp, problem solved.
RichInMN
Active Member
Fishing wires to the passenger dash...
There will be swearing!
The vents and glove box are right in the way and obstinate.
It's possible though - just not easy at all. I recommend heading generally towards the door from the top, and coming down inside that panel next to the kick. I used a flexible fiberglass rod (as opposed to a metal fishtape). Good luck!
EddieLee79
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All Infinity References which I believe are 4 ohm.
If someone doesn’t want to buy or can’t find fish rods, another option is to just cut a cheap metal coat hanger and electrical tape the wires to the end of it. I’ve been using the coat hanger method for almost 20 years and it works great.Fishing wires to the passenger dash...
There will be swearing!
The vents and glove box are right in the way and obstinate.
It's possible though - just not easy at all. I recommend heading generally towards the door from the top, and coming down inside that panel next to the kick. I used a flexible fiberglass rod (as opposed to a metal fishtape). Good luck!
U
User_63152
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Otto
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Sorry Ive been trying to digest this all tonight as I plan. Maybe reading this in one sitting was a bad idea.
I have a '19 Bighorn with 8.4" non NAV base 6 speaker with ANC. If I want to do a complete aftermarket install (yes running wire to all doors, new speakers, subs, and amps) I need the ANC-CH01 to bypass the ANC and can then use the AP4-CH41 (R.2) to integrate and get front, rear and subs outs while retaining all the factory sounds/beeps?
Assuming this is correct how flat is the signal coming out of the PAC unit? Will I need a DSP to help correct anything?
I have a '19 Bighorn with 8.4" non NAV base 6 speaker with ANC. If I want to do a complete aftermarket install (yes running wire to all doors, new speakers, subs, and amps) I need the ANC-CH01 to bypass the ANC and can then use the AP4-CH41 (R.2) to integrate and get front, rear and subs outs while retaining all the factory sounds/beeps?
Assuming this is correct how flat is the signal coming out of the PAC unit? Will I need a DSP to help correct anything?
RichInMN
Active Member
Definitely recommend a DSP, there are a few common ones folks use (as you've seen in the thread) - the factory output is pretty wonky and having digitally adjustable xovers/slopes/eq's will help a lot with the levels, not to mention the ability to "sum" channels because the fronts and rears are mixed a little differently.
I would recommend the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, it has the dsp built in and it completely bypasses the anc all together. It also has a lot of tuning features in it. I like that you can set your filters and the crossover points for each individual set of speakers without having to adjust them on your amplifiers at all. You can also customize your audio system layout. It can also do automatic time alignment base on how far the speaker is from you.
First off, this thread has been a god send of information! Finally got through all 2 bazillion posts and Woa. I think I am finally ready to get my install started.
This is all going into a 2021 2500 with the base 6 speaker system. Using a Pac Ap4-Ch41 to get a clean signal, running it to a dayton audio dsp. That will send the signal to my precision power 4 channel for a fully active 2 way system. Subs will be 2 sd3 8"s in a sealed box under the back seat powered by a rockford amp. Front stage will be some audiofrog 6x9s and SB Acoustic tweeters all in the stock location. Running 0 gauge to the back of the truck and 4 gauge to both amplifiers.
Really looking forward to getting started on this thing! Bought all this stuff a couple years ago for an install in my silverado that never happened because life gets in the way when you have a 4 year old and a 1 year old. Going to start today with some planning for speaker fitment and if I can get a decently warm day I will begin the deadening process in the doors. I've installed a handful of systems in my vehicles in the past but I've never gone fully active. Really interested to see how it goes. Still not sure if I need an ANC harness to make sure my HU still sees the resistance or if my PAC unit will take care of it. I guess we'll find out!
My systems in the past have been good but I want this one to be REALLY good and clean. Planning on taking my time and doing it the right way. They got loud, and sounded good but they were kind of sloppy. I want this one to look as close to professional (5 star) as possible while also sounding really good. The stock system, as it is, absolutely sucks. Like, pure garbage. My stock chevy got louder and sounded way better. I can't handle that for much longer!
I will post again when I finally get it all done and let y'all know how it turned out! Thanks again for this abundance of information
Adam
This is all going into a 2021 2500 with the base 6 speaker system. Using a Pac Ap4-Ch41 to get a clean signal, running it to a dayton audio dsp. That will send the signal to my precision power 4 channel for a fully active 2 way system. Subs will be 2 sd3 8"s in a sealed box under the back seat powered by a rockford amp. Front stage will be some audiofrog 6x9s and SB Acoustic tweeters all in the stock location. Running 0 gauge to the back of the truck and 4 gauge to both amplifiers.
Really looking forward to getting started on this thing! Bought all this stuff a couple years ago for an install in my silverado that never happened because life gets in the way when you have a 4 year old and a 1 year old. Going to start today with some planning for speaker fitment and if I can get a decently warm day I will begin the deadening process in the doors. I've installed a handful of systems in my vehicles in the past but I've never gone fully active. Really interested to see how it goes. Still not sure if I need an ANC harness to make sure my HU still sees the resistance or if my PAC unit will take care of it. I guess we'll find out!
My systems in the past have been good but I want this one to be REALLY good and clean. Planning on taking my time and doing it the right way. They got loud, and sounded good but they were kind of sloppy. I want this one to look as close to professional (5 star) as possible while also sounding really good. The stock system, as it is, absolutely sucks. Like, pure garbage. My stock chevy got louder and sounded way better. I can't handle that for much longer!
I will post again when I finally get it all done and let y'all know how it turned out! Thanks again for this abundance of information
Adam
ramButz
Ram Guru
its why i gutted my to
For those above mentioning wiring in a kicker key. How did you do that? I used a T harness from and old 8.4 cherokee and grabbed signal from before the hk amp and it acted like it could adjust properly. Would a better solution be to use a ANC bypass harness to grab the speaker signal after the HK amp and then amp that?
Do you have a link for the one you used by chance? What stereo do you have? HK, Alpine?
2008-2020 select Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep Factory AMP Harness
This audio harness is designed to work with the Alpine, Harmon Kardon and Beats factory amplified system. This specific connector is only compatible with the 12 or 16 speaker set up, our 9 speaker connector will be available very soon. If you are planning to add a sub or amplify your speakers to...
lljcustoms.com
I'm thinking at least a couple of those are there for temp ascertainment for the auto climate control system where each person can have a different temp. I'm thinking they may have them there even on the ones without that option as it is likely cheaper to make ONE than two or three different tops.
Just installed Infinity Ref 3032cfx speakers in the dash corners of my 2019 Ram 2500 with 8.4 base 6 speaker system. Even someone with 30 years experience as an electronic tech can be a Homer on occasion. Read on and many may find out they'd made the same wiring mistake.
My mistake was wiring the included 270uf capacitor in series with a 4 ohm resistor to the positive speaker terminal. Sounded awful. Then I thought, why do I need two capacitors? Should I remove the 4.7uf that's already mounted to the speaker from the factory. So I searched on this double capacitor situation. I found a formula and a chart all should have, chart at least, https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-17962-The-Install-Bay-BB99.html.
If you use the formula, a x b/a +b where a,b are the two cap values, the answer became kinda stupid, 4.62uf. Remember the premounted cap value is 4.7uf. All this work to get the same result if I'd done nothing adding the big cap in line.
I also mounted a 4 ohm resistor, so even then, should that not have done something? Please, all look at the chart and see how putting a resistor in series to make the speaker 8ohms also changes the crossover point. I had taken a stock speaker with a 8000 hz crossover and made it 4000hz based on the chart. Should have a little better low endish sound I thought.
No matter with my first wiring above, the speakers sounded like there was no low end, low mid nothing, no mids at all, just tin high end. This sounded like a hole between my front door speakers and the dash, not full sounding between both. So I re-wired the speakers removing the 4.7uf caps. I was a bit concerned that now, according to the chart I was putting the cross over at around 100hz and that could damage the speakers by using just the 4ohm resistor and the 270uf cap in series with the positive terminals.
Well folks, I got my magic. If you wire it like my last sentence you'll see. If this is all you plan to do mod wise it's the best way to go. With just the stock system, blue door speakers and these speakers you'll get the best sound out of your stock system. Quite frankly I was shocked and for the first time I like my radio. I blasted it and so far nothing popped so alls good. Voices and guitar, anything mid is smooth and full. I'll post a picture of my wiring and how I mounted the components on the back of the speaker magnets. Also I'll have a comparison then with faisal 8ohm speakers I ordered to see if I can get rid of the extra resistor.
edited to remove 4k ohm resistor and put 4 ohm instead, my apologies to those that read it before the change
My mistake was wiring the included 270uf capacitor in series with a 4 ohm resistor to the positive speaker terminal. Sounded awful. Then I thought, why do I need two capacitors? Should I remove the 4.7uf that's already mounted to the speaker from the factory. So I searched on this double capacitor situation. I found a formula and a chart all should have, chart at least, https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-17962-The-Install-Bay-BB99.html.
If you use the formula, a x b/a +b where a,b are the two cap values, the answer became kinda stupid, 4.62uf. Remember the premounted cap value is 4.7uf. All this work to get the same result if I'd done nothing adding the big cap in line.
I also mounted a 4 ohm resistor, so even then, should that not have done something? Please, all look at the chart and see how putting a resistor in series to make the speaker 8ohms also changes the crossover point. I had taken a stock speaker with a 8000 hz crossover and made it 4000hz based on the chart. Should have a little better low endish sound I thought.
No matter with my first wiring above, the speakers sounded like there was no low end, low mid nothing, no mids at all, just tin high end. This sounded like a hole between my front door speakers and the dash, not full sounding between both. So I re-wired the speakers removing the 4.7uf caps. I was a bit concerned that now, according to the chart I was putting the cross over at around 100hz and that could damage the speakers by using just the 4ohm resistor and the 270uf cap in series with the positive terminals.
Well folks, I got my magic. If you wire it like my last sentence you'll see. If this is all you plan to do mod wise it's the best way to go. With just the stock system, blue door speakers and these speakers you'll get the best sound out of your stock system. Quite frankly I was shocked and for the first time I like my radio. I blasted it and so far nothing popped so alls good. Voices and guitar, anything mid is smooth and full. I'll post a picture of my wiring and how I mounted the components on the back of the speaker magnets. Also I'll have a comparison then with faisal 8ohm speakers I ordered to see if I can get rid of the extra resistor.
edited to remove 4k ohm resistor and put 4 ohm instead, my apologies to those that read it before the change
Last edited:
Infinity Ref 3032 manufacturer must have wanted the enduser to remove the 4.7uf cap. Why would they include the 270uf cap if adding it in line with the 4.7uf cap still in place still gives you a 4.6uf total cap value? Same as what's there. Following this assumption then if they intended you to remove the smaller cap from the speaker and use the big 270uf cap, they must have been comfortable with the customer using this speaker at 4 ohms and a 150hz crossover point. Allowing more bass and possible damage? So still keeping to this assumption, this is why my moving it to just under 100hz crossover point, 50 less hz than they did, by using a 4 ohm resistor inline, is why I was able to drive around for 2 hours and blast the system between 27 and 30 on the volume indicator and not pop anything. If it has problems of any sort I can change the cap to 99uf and make it a 200hz crossover. I doubt I'd like it then.
Speaker as supplied, 4 ohms, 4.7uf capacitor has an 8000hz crossover point. Result, too loud in front, no midrange or bottom to speak of, lot of posters here didn't like it.
Speaker wired with a series resistor of 4 ohms in series with the supplied 270uf and little 4.7uf cap still in place makes the speaker 8 ohms and a 4000hz crossover point. Still awful
Speaker wired with a 4 ohm resistor in series with the supplied 270uf and the little 4.7uf cap removed, blends with rest of truck speakers and has audiophile quality sound.
What got me in trouble is I watched the Crutchfield video where the gentleman wires the 270uf cap inline on the positive and the 4.7uf cap is still on the speaker. I was rolling dumb.
Probably where a lot of folks here got anyway but I read many posts where people did what I did so I hope this helps. 96 pages this thread so I hope I haven't duped
Speaker as supplied, 4 ohms, 4.7uf capacitor has an 8000hz crossover point. Result, too loud in front, no midrange or bottom to speak of, lot of posters here didn't like it.
Speaker wired with a series resistor of 4 ohms in series with the supplied 270uf and little 4.7uf cap still in place makes the speaker 8 ohms and a 4000hz crossover point. Still awful
Speaker wired with a 4 ohm resistor in series with the supplied 270uf and the little 4.7uf cap removed, blends with rest of truck speakers and has audiophile quality sound.
What got me in trouble is I watched the Crutchfield video where the gentleman wires the 270uf cap inline on the positive and the 4.7uf cap is still on the speaker. I was rolling dumb.
Probably where a lot of folks here got anyway but I read many posts where people did what I did so I hope this helps. 96 pages this thread so I hope I haven't duped
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