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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I put 2 sundown 8" sd3s under my rear seat in a 1ft3 sealed box. The 10" version also does well in a .5 ft3 enclosure. Im blown away at how these sound. They are sundowns shallow mount option although they arent super shallow at about 4.5". Ive had a lot of different stuff in the past and these are by far my favorite for space saving applications.
 
I put 2 sundown 8" sd3s under my rear seat in a 1ft3 sealed box. The 10" version also does well in a .5 ft3 enclosure. Im blown away at how these sound. They are sundowns shallow mount option although they arent super shallow at about 4.5". Ive had a lot of different stuff in the past and these are by far my favorite for space saving applications.
 

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I recently installed some new dash speakers, JL Audio C2-350x, and they don't seem to have the punchy highs like they did in my previous truck (2017 Ram 2500 base 6 speakers).
This truck also has the base 6 speaker setup.
My question is, after reading through this thread, do I need to swap the polarity in the front left speaker as others have mentioned?
Treble on EQ is maxed out, for what it's worth.
Metra 72-7902 adapters in both trucks.
You need to keep the polarity reversed on both speakers. I cut off the connectors from the adapter and then spliced them back on after reversing them. All of the speakers in the 6 base system have polarity reversed.
 
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@7LParker As usual (y) I concur with @Patsy1099 ’s post, except you said the Kickers would be 88db not 81db, so they might be ok. I’ll leverage an old post format to predict how much volume those speakers you chose should generate. As a reminder I find my JL C2 volumes to be well balanced so I will use them as a (subjective) baseline; note I did not install amps or DSPs so this is just for a simple speaker swap.

First the 3.5” dash speaks: Need to make sure the quoted sensitivity ratings are all at the same power setting... drat! Kicker only gives 1W sensitivity, 88db. To compare we’ll have to adjust the others from the 2.83W spec I had originally checked.
- JL C2 3.5s = 4 ohm w/ 83 dB at 1W 86 dB (at 2.83 W)
- Infinity 3032s = 3 ohm w/ 88 dB at 1W (estimated from spec) 91 dB (at 2.83 W)
Not only lower impedance but also higher sensitivity. Therefore I would estimate the Infinity speakers to be about “two volume clicks” (~6 dB) louder than my 3.5s​
- @7LParker your Kicker 44KSC3504 = 4ohm 88db at 1W
Like the Infinitys 3032s, your dash Kickers would be louder than my JLs, but maybe by only “1.5 volume clicks” due to the higher impedance​

Next the 6x9s, as spec’d at 2.83W:
- JL C2s = 4 ohm 96 dB
- Infinity REF-9633 = 3 ohm 93 dB
- Infinity Kappa 93ix = 2.5 ohm 96 dB
I would expect the Infinity 9633 volume to be close to the PowerBass and JLs. Also higher impedance is nicer for your amp.​
I would expect the Kappa 93ix to be louder than all the other 6x9 options we discussed by “a notch”, so they actually might balance better with the louder Infinity 3.5s if you are sold on those... but at a higher price.​
- Rockford P1692 = 4 ohm 94 dB Fronts
- Rockford P1694 = 4 ohm 93 dB (estimated from 1W spec) Rears
In both cases I would predict the Rockford 6x9s to be “1 click” quieter than my JL 6x9s​

Conclusion: The numbers would predict that by combining the louder dash speaks with quieter doors it MAY result in overly loud dash/quiet doors. Two caveats though: 1) sound is subjective and you may actually prefer a louder dash than I do and 2) if you install an amp and/or DSP you can easily balance all six signals to your liking.

Hope that helps!
If you add a aftermarket amp, does any of this matter?
 
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I recently installed some new dash speakers, JL Audio C2-350x, and they don't seem to have the punchy highs like they did in my previous truck (2017 Ram 2500 base 6 speakers).
This truck also has the base 6 speaker setup.
My question is, after reading through this thread, do I need to swap the polarity in the front left speaker as others have mentioned?
Treble on EQ is maxed out, for what it's worth.
Metra 72-7902 adapters in both trucks.
I believe with the base system you need to add base blockers to the tweeters I did in my 2017 worked great
 
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I believe with the base system you need to add base blockers to the tweeters I did in my 2017 worked great
I wouldn't say you must if you listen at moderate volumes, but I don't... :D they are certainly a good idea if you don't want to blow those little speakers.
 
If you add a aftermarket amp, does any of this matter?
Well if you stick with four channels (and still run the fronts in parallel), regardless where your amplification comes from it would be advisable to balance the output of your door and dash speakers. Now if you go up to six channels you could set it all up to adjust their output separately and save these worries.
 
I'm planning to upgrade my speakers only and I have the stock base system with 6 speakers. I'm trying to figure out which speakers to get. Since the stock speakers are 2ohms, if I get 4ohms speakers they should be quieter but I read on here that sensitivity can can make up for the lost volume if the sensitivity is high. So a speaker like the JL audit C2 should have the same volume as stock because its sensitivity is high although is 4ohms. Am I correct?
 
Yep sure enough, you need to order the 5.7 e-torque to get the 9-speaker with subwoofer. Looks like the sub needs the extra amps LOL.

I grabbed mine off the lot no E torque and with the 9 speaker system.. kinda wish I had ET
 
I'm planning to upgrade my speakers only and I have the stock base system with 6 speakers. I'm trying to figure out which speakers to get. Since the stock speakers are 2ohms, if I get 4ohms speakers they should be quieter but I read on here that sensitivity can can make up for the lost volume if the sensitivity is high. So a speaker like the JL audit C2 should have the same volume as stock because its sensitivity is high although is 4ohms. Am I correct?
Yep you've got the impedance, sensitivity, volume relationship correct, A+ @sman301 ! Since I didn't have sensitivity ratings for the stock speakers it was hard to predict an exact volume match so some guessing/trial and error was required.

Once I installed the JL C2s all around, I achieved nicely balanced volumes (front door vs dash as well as fader front vs rear), which were overall perhaps a bit louder at a lower volume setting than stock... so I just run it at a lower setting.
 
Following thread...excellent info...I also have the stock 6 speaker system and was stuck...thx!
 
I removed the seats to take a look at the back, and here is what we have. Not much there, but enough room for an amp and a ultra thin sub.

From what I can tell, it looks like the folding seat mod would work too for the passenger side. Although they have reinforced the clamp with steel (I think it was just plastic before...?).

I'll have to do some more measuring to decide what I'll stick back there. But this is a start at least.

Still am not sure what the free harness connector is near the middle... anyone know what that device mounted on the right is. in the schematic (that I don't have on my truck)?

Anyone want any more pics or info before I put the seats back together?

What is this folding seat mod? i did a search and found nothing..Any links?
 
What is this folding seat mod? i did a search and found nothing..Any links?

here ya go

 
Does anyone have pictures of how they ran the power cable from the battery to cab? I know some ran under the truck and some firewall. Old 1500 had the clutch delete plate, is that still there?
 
Does anyone have pictures of how they ran the power cable from the battery to cab? I know some ran under the truck and some firewall. Old 1500 had the clutch delete plate, is that still there?
There’s a large rubber grommet above and to the left of the brake pedal. There is already wires coming through. You can poke/cut an additional hole and run your wire thru
 

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Hey - good luck with your system, it can be a real bear.

You don't need to mess with the mic wires, I strongly recommend you get a PAC wiring harness, it gives you all the pigtails you need from the head unit (tapped under the driver seat). Those go into the DSP, and from there RCAs to the amps.

For remote I tapped an ignition source at the fuse box. I think it was #66?

I put a lot of details and pictures in my build thread, check that out and PM me if you have issues along the way. :cool:

The link to your build does not appear to be working. I've previously read through it but can no longer access it.
 
I'm still confused on the polarity. I replaced my 6 speaker setup with Kickers in the cab corners, i just plugged the adapters in as-is. I didnt use speaker pop but did a youtube in-phase/out-of phase speaker test and everything sounded ok to me, AKA in phase sounded in phase and out of phase sounded out of phase per the video instructions. Do i still need to reverse polarity on the front left?
Thanks
 
I'm still confused on the polarity. I replaced my 6 speaker setup with Kickers in the cab corners, i just plugged the adapters in as-is. I didnt use speaker pop but did a youtube in-phase/out-of phase speaker test and everything sounded ok to me, AKA in phase sounded in phase and out of phase sounded out of phase per the video instructions. Do i still need to reverse polarity on the front left?
Thanks
If it sounds good to your ears I’d leave well enough alone.
 
I grabbed mine off the lot no E torque and with the 9 speaker system.. kinda wish I had ET
same here, 9 channel I thought was a unconnect 12 issue, and that often was bundled with ET.

I got the uconnect 12, no ET tow package.
 
Still confused on this phase stuff. I have a 6 speaker with ANC. (Also E-torque if that makes a difference.) I just want better sound by upgrading speakers. Looking at the JL 3.5's mentioned predominantly, with bass blockers. Back to the phase, I should I install the new speakers phased the same as the ones being removed? Or make sure all are installed in phase? I would prefer to retain the ANC. Also, understanding the ohm difference in the factory vs aftermarket 3.5's, what are the suggestions for the door speakers, front and rear.
 

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