5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[sjsleuth]

I'm putting in JL audio c2 speaker today. I did see the polarity was reversed so I guess I should keep it that way.

 

[Hackmunch]

Ah okay thank you. I was thinking a little bit more about that yesterday and I realize now that there wouldn't be any way to do that given the wiring diagrams that I found on here.

I think I'd rather have better sound than a quiet cabin. Same with you?

yes . i really didnt notice any differance with anc working and not working. the dsr1 is an amazing dsp. the interface with the factory head unit is cake.

 

[bbbeeennnjjjeee]

yes . i really didnt notice any differance with anc working and not working. the dsr1 is an amazing dsp. the interface with the factory head unit is cake.

Thanks man. Im gonna get all the components together and may hit you up if you're cool with that.

 

[DUG]

About to order a 3500 Tradesmen. Only have 2 options for stereo: 5" screen or 8.4", both with 6 speakers. Is there an advantage by going with one over the other for ease of future stereo upgrades? I apologize if its obvious from this thread but it's not to me.

 

[bbbeeennnjjjeee]

About to order a 3500 Tradesmen. Only have 2 options for stereo: 5" screen or 8.4", both with 6 speakers. Is there an advantage by going with one over the other for ease of future stereo upgrades? I apologize if its obvious from this thread but it's not to me.

I don't think so. Personally I think the factory screens are pretty nice so the 8.4 might be nice to have. When you go to replace your speakers, it's all going to be from the amp on anyways. Get whatever feels right, it's not going to affect what your choices are down the road.

 

[DUG]

I don't think so. Personally I think the factory screens are pretty nice so the 8.4 might be nice to have. When you go to replace your speakers, it's all going to be from the amp on anyways. Get whatever feels right, it's not going to affect what your choices are down the road.

Thanks!

 

[WickedPorter]

Hi guys, just picked up a Rebel with the Alpine system/12" screen + ANC. I'm pretty impressed with this system ... low/mid seems great to me but highs are lacking. Based on all my reading, I think I've gotten to the point of "slightly" less confused.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Replace Left/Right dash 3.5's with the Kicker's from Crutchfield. Was thinking the Infinity reference but resistance is too low, it seems? Or maybe not? I've heard different readings on resistance for the front dash "Alpine" speakers ... some say 8ohm, some say less than 3? Does anyone know what they actually are?
2. Switch polarity on the front left to get everything in the same phase. Reverse polarity or not, shouldn't all speakers be in a matching phase? Otherwise it seems to me that the one speaker out of phase (front left) would be working against the rest of the system...

Anyone with experience doing just this and nothing else? Does it mess with ANC (getting all speakers in matching phase?) Does it sound better/better highs? Assuming being in matching phase is an improvement as well?

Any other speakers I should consider aside from the Kickers or Infinity's, based on what the actual ohm/resistance target should be?

EDIT: Further research shows the factory speakers with the 2019 Alpine system are reading at 2.3ohms ... The Infinity REF-3032CFX say 3ohm, but then there's some fancy wording that says they're technically 4ohm. Ugh. All other 3.5" speakers I've found are typically 4ohm.

EDIT 2: Confirmed that all speakers are reverse polarity except front left dash just as others have reported.

Thanks guys!
Nick/WP

 

[WickedPorter]

Hi guys, just picked up a Rebel with the Alpine system/12" screen + ANC. I'm pretty impressed with this system ... low/mid seems great to me but highs are lacking. Based on all my reading, I think I've gotten to the point of "slightly" less confused.

OK guys ... I went ahead and replaced all three front dash speakers in the "Alpine" system with JBL GX302s (2019 Rebel). Further research indicates that the factory speakers are around 2.3Ohms, and these JBLs are pretty close to that according to the specs.

They don't fit "perfectly" but when you screw the tabs down, the thin metal surrounds bend to conform and fit very well/tight. I did put the adhesive foam surrounds on (the GX302s come with these).

Before doing anything, I tested phase on everything with the "Speaker Pop" app, all of my speakers are negative phase/polarity except the driver front dash. I went ahead and flipped driver front dash to be in negative phase as well to match the remaining speakers, so it's not "canceling out" any other sound. Not too worried about things being in negative phase as long as *all* of them are in negative phase.

First impressions are *very* good. I have the highs/mids I've been missing. I was able to turn the treble and mid down a bit and everything seems far more balanced. I believe matching the phase/polarity on the front left has improved the sound stage as well ... it sounds far more "stereo"... better separation and staging with high quality and lossless tracks played from my (cabled) iPhone.

Incredible, easy, cheap upgrade to the sound system. The stock speakers are not that great, there are no tweeters. It sounds OK but not what I would expect from something labeled as a "premium" sound system. The GX302s adds the mids and highs that this system desperately needs. The amp does appear to provide a good amount of power to everything ... there is no distortion throughout the entire volume range on well-produced/encoded/lossless tracks + direct cable connection. It sounds very, very good and I'm a bit of an audiophile.

No ANC issues. The blinker sound as well as the tactile "beeps" when navigating UConnect is a bit softer after this upgrade ... only downside, if you want to call that a downside.

 

[Hockeydad]

Hi guys, just picked up a Rebel with the Alpine system/12" screen + ANC. I'm pretty impressed with this system ... low/mid seems great to me but highs are lacking. Based on all my reading, I think I've gotten to the point of "slightly" less confused.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Replace Left/Right dash 3.5's with the Kicker's from Crutchfield. Was thinking the Infinity reference but resistance is too low, it seems? Or maybe not? I've heard different readings on resistance for the front dash "Alpine" speakers ... some say 8ohm, some say less than 3? Does anyone know what they actually are?
2. Switch polarity on the front left to get everything in the same phase. Reverse polarity or not, shouldn't all speakers be in a matching phase? Otherwise it seems to me that the one speaker out of phase (front left) would be working against the rest of the system...

Anyone with experience doing just this and nothing else? Does it mess with ANC (getting all speakers in matching phase?) Does it sound better/better highs? Assuming being in matching phase is an improvement as well?

Any other speakers I should consider aside from the Kickers or Infinity's, based on what the actual ohm/resistance target should be?

EDIT: Further research shows the factory speakers with the 2019 Alpine system are reading at 2.3ohms ... The Infinity REF-3032CFX say 3ohm, but then there's some fancy wording that says they're technically 4ohm. Ugh. All other 3.5" speakers I've found are typically 4ohm.

EDIT 2: Confirmed that all speakers are reverse polarity except front left dash just as others have reported.

Thanks guys!
Nick/WP

lled the

Hi guys, just picked up a Rebel with the Alpine system/12" screen + ANC. I'm pretty impressed with this system ... low/mid seems great to me but highs are lacking. Based on all my reading, I think I've gotten to the point of "slightly" less confused.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. Replace Left/Right dash 3.5's with the Kicker's from Crutchfield. Was thinking the Infinity reference but resistance is too low, it seems? Or maybe not? I've heard different readings on resistance for the front dash "Alpine" speakers ... some say 8ohm, some say less than 3? Does anyone know what they actually are?
2. Switch polarity on the front left to get everything in the same phase. Reverse polarity or not, shouldn't all speakers be in a matching phase? Otherwise it seems to me that the one speaker out of phase (front left) would be working against the rest of the system...

Anyone with experience doing just this and nothing else? Does it mess with ANC (getting all speakers in matching phase?) Does it sound better/better highs? Assuming being in matching phase is an improvement as well?

Any other speakers I should consider aside from the Kickers or Infinity's, based on what the actual ohm/resistance target should be?

EDIT: Further research shows the factory speakers with the 2019 Alpine system are reading at 2.3ohms ... The Infinity REF-3032CFX say 3ohm, but then there's some fancy wording that says they're technically 4ohm. Ugh. All other 3.5" speakers I've found are typically 4ohm.

EDIT 2: Confirmed that all speakers are reverse polarity except front left dash just as others have reported.

Thanks guys!
Nick/WP

i installed the 3032’s and they are only 3 ohms

 

[C.AdamsMo.RAM]

The thread is crowded and confusing - all the different systems require different solutions. The good news is, the non-alpine 6 speaker is the easiest to work with - all you need is a bare-bones line output converter or an amp with high level inputs as a minimum. And resistors if your LOC or AMP doesn't present a load.

I bought the Dayton 4x8 DSP, it does both LOC and DSP functions for me while presenting a slight load, so didn't need the resistors I bought; I love it.

Hi, just looking for clarity! I have the base 6 speaker with anc, same as you? I want to disable the anc by un hooking at mic in roof and run amps for doors and sub. Did you do this? The dayton 408 intercepts the speaker wires going to the little "amp" looking thing under seat? So basically cut the wires going to it rendering it useless? Then from dayton dsp, run rca's to amps and speaker wire out to door speakers? Where did you get remote turn on for amps? Any help would be very much appreciated! Thanks!

 

[RichInMN]

Hi, just looking for clarity! I have the base 6 speaker with anc, same as you? I want to disable the anc by un hooking at mic in roof and run amps for doors and sub. Did you do this? The dayton 408 intercepts the speaker wires going to the little "amp" looking thing under seat? So basically cut the wires going to it rendering it useless? Then from dayton dsp, run rca's to amps and speaker wire out to door speakers? Where did you get remote turn on for amps? Any help would be very much appreciated! Thanks!

Hey - good luck with your system, it can be a real bear.

You don't need to mess with the mic wires, I strongly recommend you get a PAC wiring harness, it gives you all the pigtails you need from the head unit (tapped under the driver seat). Those go into the DSP, and from there RCAs to the amps.

For remote I tapped an ignition source at the fuse box. I think it was #66?

I put a lot of details and pictures in my build thread, check that out and PM me if you have issues along the way.

5,000 Watt stereo upgrade from 8.4 6-Speaker non-nav | 5th Gen Modifications/Accessories

First off, I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed their own stereo projects and pictures on this forum - without this resource the project would have been much more difficult to plan and execute. In particular the posts of what to expect behind the backseats, in the door panels, etc...

5thgenrams.com

 

[C.AdamsMo.RAM]

Hey - good luck with your system, it can be a real bear.

You don't need to mess with the mic wires, I strongly recommend you get a PAC wiring harness, it gives you all the pigtails you need from the head unit (tapped under the driver seat). Those go into the DSP, and from there RCAs to the amps.

For remote I tapped an ignition source at the fuse box. I think it was #66?

I put a lot of details and pictures in my build thread, check that out and PM me if you have issues along the way.

5,000 Watt stereo upgrade from 8.4 6-Speaker non-nav | 5th Gen Modifications/Accessories

First off, I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed their own stereo projects and pictures on this forum - without this resource the project would have been much more difficult to plan and execute. In particular the posts of what to expect behind the backseats, in the door panels, etc...

5thgenrams.com

Wow! Thanks for all this amazing info!! You didn't lose any features with this dayton dsp? Just a little louder on calls and parking sensors? the only real question I have at this point is that I would like to put in a Rockford fosgate P300-10T or 12T. They are thin, pre loaded, 300rms powered truck boxes. I would love to put 1 or 2 behind the seats as opposed to doing an underseat. They are wedge shaped with a flat back and 4.8" deep at the top, and very in size at the bottom, sizes are: 10- 4.8" top and 7.9" bot. and 12- 4.8" top and 8.5" bottom. They also have a 8" ported that is flat at like 5.5" depth.. since you have been back there and really analyzed it, thought you might have insight! ? Thanks!

 

[RichInMN]

I'll get you some good measurements when I get home tonight - didn't drive the Ram today. My guess would be 6" depth at the bottom, 3" at the top, about 16-17" height.

 

[RichInMN]

Wow! Thanks for all this amazing info!! You didn't lose any features with this dayton dsp? Just a little louder on calls and parking sensors? the only real question I have at this point is that I would like to put in a Rockford fosgate P300-10T or 12T. They are thin, pre loaded, 300rms powered truck boxes. I would love to put 1 or 2 behind the seats as opposed to doing an underseat. They are wedge shaped with a flat back and 4.8" deep at the top, and very in size at the bottom, sizes are: 10- 4.8" top and 7.9" bot. and 12- 4.8" top and 8.5" bottom. They also have a 8" ported that is flat at like 5.5" depth.. since you have been back there and really analyzed it, thought you might have insight! ? Thanks!

Height at the "indent" is right at or just below 16".

Interestingly, on my non-reclining seats, when you lift the seat bottoms, the seat backs push towards the rear wall to the tune of about an inch.

Top depth 5 1/4, Bottom depth about 5 3/4 - that is with the seat folded up. Add an inch if you are OK to lose that ability. Of course you need 1 to 1 1/2" front clearance for your sub as well. Going to be tough to fit in that space without buying a specialty pancake sub of the Sundown/JL/Pioneer etc. variety. If it were me, that's the way I'd go with a behind the seat box - those pancake subs are only 3-4" deep.

 

[Feltcycle]

Does anyone know of a prefab single 10” sub enclosure that will fit under the rear passenger side seat and not go all the way across the entire rear seat? I have found plenty of dual 10” options, but not many single 10” options.

 

[C.AdamsMo.RAM]

Height at the "indent" is right at or just below 16".

Interestingly, on my non-reclining seats, when you lift the seat bottoms, the seat backs push towards the rear wall to the tune of about an inch.

Top depth 5 1/4, Bottom depth about 5 3/4 - that is with the seat folded up. Add an inch if you are OK to lose that ability. Of course you need 1 to 1 1/2" front clearance for your sub as well. Going to be tough to fit in that space without buying a specialty pancake sub of the Sundown/JL/Pioneer etc. variety. If it were me, that's the way I'd go with a behind the seat box - those pancake subs are only 3-4" deep.

Thank you very much for your help! You are a godsend to me! Haha I see what you're talking about with the seats moving back, just took one out and put the tape measure to the other.. So incase this was the case, I had a backup plan lol I think I'm going with Rockford fosgate T1693 doors 100watts RMS and 2 Rockford P3SD4's at 300 RMS each, in parallel running off a T1000X5ad amp. I'll put subs in fox acoustic dual 10" ported enclosure under seat. They leave access to floor storage boxes. I guess I'll do the back seat mod to allow them to fold down for storage! Haha I'll be purchasing my gear over the next few months and taking lots of pics and notes when installing to help others in the same manner you have done for us! Thank you so much for bringing clarity to my project!

 

[RichInMN]

Does anyone know of a prefab single 10” sub enclosure that will fit under the rear passenger side seat and not go all the way across the entire rear seat? I have found plenty of dual 10” options, but not many single 10” options.

Something like this should fit a shallow 10 - not the prettiest but you could recarpet or repaint it:

SEALED SHALLOW-MOUNT UNDER-SEAT SUB ENCLOSURE SPEAKER BOX FOR 10" CAR SUBWOOFER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for SEALED SHALLOW-MOUNT UNDER-SEAT SUB ENCLOSURE SPEAKER BOX FOR 10" CAR SUBWOOFER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[rah6887]

I recently installed some new dash speakers, JL Audio C2-350x, and they don't seem to have the punchy highs like they did in my previous truck (2017 Ram 2500 base 6 speakers).
This truck also has the base 6 speaker setup.
My question is, after reading through this thread, do I need to swap the polarity in the front left speaker as others have mentioned?
Treble on EQ is maxed out, for what it's worth.
Metra 72-7902 adapters in both trucks.

 

[Feltcycle]

Something like this should fit a shallow 10 - not the prettiest but you could recarpet or repaint it:

SEALED SHALLOW-MOUNT UNDER-SEAT SUB ENCLOSURE SPEAKER BOX FOR 10" CAR SUBWOOFER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for SEALED SHALLOW-MOUNT UNDER-SEAT SUB ENCLOSURE SPEAKER BOX FOR 10" CAR SUBWOOFER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Thanks for the recommendation! That box would fit perfectly under the rear seat, but the calculated sealed volume would be a little small for the TW3 sub I’ve already bought. I’m currently working with Sound Off Audio in developing a 10” sub enclosure ~ 0.5 cu ft that should fit perfectly under rear passenger seat even with all weather mats. I’ll post it here when it’s finished in case anyone is looking for the same enclosure.

 

[rah6887]

Thanks for the recommendation! That box would fit perfectly under the rear seat, but the calculated sealed volume would be a little small for the TW3 sub I’ve already bought. I’m currently working with Sound Off Audio in developing a 10” sub enclosure ~ 0.5 cu ft that should fit perfectly under rear passenger seat even with all weather mats. I’ll post it here when it’s finished in case anyone is looking for the same enclosure.

Crew or Quad Cab?
I'm looking to get one fabbed up for my QC