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2025 Ram 1500 Current Owners - Discussion, Feedback, and Problems

I switched my fuse over today to make the 12V power outlet on top of the Uconnect (i.e. on the dash) turn on and off with the truck instead of being always on.

It was a huge pain to figure out which fuse needed to be moved. I swear it is not in the location that the owner's manual shows (in its super crappy stick figure drawing).

This is in my '25 1500 Limited.

If you're looking to do the same:

- remove two screws at the bottom of the dash that hold the big panel below the steering wheel. You will need a 7mm socket.

- pull the panel off. It has clips holding it even after you remove the screws, so don't be surprised by some resistance.

- the interior fuse panel (versus the engine compartment fuse panel) is up under the steering column - making it a literal pain in the neck to get at.

- the fuse is F54 and needs to be moved 1/2 a space to the right, from F54A to F54B.

I had to stick my phone up in there and take a picture to be able to read the lightly printed/molded labels on the fuse panel in order to figure out which one was F54.

In the attached picture, it is the yellow 20A fuse that is closest to the lower right corner. As shown, it is in the A (always on) position. I pulled it out and moved it over a half space to the right, to the B (keyed on) position.

If you zoom in, you can make out where the panel itself says "A F54 B".

Now, my radar detector turns on and off with the truck, so I don't have to remember to unplug it.

View attachment 206759

I've been wanting to know this since I got the truck.... THANKS

I sure HOPE this is the same as in my 2022

UPDATE: found it in my Manual

Screenshot 2025-10-27 223132.png
 
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I had already posted this as a separate thread, but perhaps it should have been posted to this one. Any input would be much appreciated. I've since put probably 250 miles on the truck with no further problems.

New member here. Recently bought a new 25 limited specifically for towing a small travel trailer. While leaving hotel to pick up the new trailer, started truck cold in morning and had check engine light while idle was fluctuating and running rough. Drove .5 mile, then flashing check engine light came on, and became undriveable. Had towed to nearest dealer, and they found multiple misfire codes (write up says misfire to p0016-00 crankshaft/camshaft timing bank 1 sensor one and b0300 multiple cylinder, DTC card present p0301,2,3,4,5,6 present store codes). Dealer says they were told to erase all codes and test drive for 15 miles. Drove normally, and no codes returned. They also checked spark plug and crank and cam sensor connections, all fine. I cancelled the trailer pickup due to not wanting to risk a roadside problem with truck and trailer combo far from home. Truck drove nearly 100 miles home normally of course. Dealer told me that if recurs with flashing check engine light, could require engine tear down. This seems illogical to me, as it seems like more of a sensor related problem. Any insight from you folks would be appreciated. We're wanting to do some long trips with the new RV, but the idea of being stranded 1000 miles away from home on the side of the road with a trailer attached and vacation plans ruined by a major engine problem is not appealing. How concerned should I be at this point? Is this a very unusual occurrence? Suggestions on next steps...aside from driving it more to see if it recurs. Thank you.
Vince
Check the TSBs could just need a PCM update
 
Quick follow up with my busted screen. Huge shoutout to @AnthonyRI and Joe at Mark Dodge for the assist. Joe called his local Warranty guy in Louisiana and got him to contact the warranty guy here in Vegas and told him to replace my screen with a new one instead of waiting perpetually for a refurbished screen. Just like that, the screen is on order and it’s scheduled to get fixed next week. My local dealer wasn’t willing to ask the local warranty guy to make an exception because they’ve been burned twice before. I’ve been waiting since end of April for this stupid thing to get fixed and it finally is. Hallelujah!
Finally! Congrats! 🤞🏻
 
Go to Facebook and you'd swear these trucks were made by the 3rd shift at a Yugo factory
Fairly sure mine was. Plenty of issues in the first 3k miles to the point that we were considering a durango to replace our suv but decided on anything but a stellantis product.
 
And the sad part is, they won’t stand behind their product anymore. Once you put your money down, they forget about you and focus solely on the next sale.
 
Drivetrain control module probably needs to be replaced. There’s been issues with them killing batteries.
Got the screen fixed and it FEELS like a whole new truck again. I can actually do stuff instead of struggling through trying to change settings with voice control. Almost 6 months to the day to get it fixed.

When I mentioned the drivetrain control module the rep had no idea what I was referring to but put it in the notes and was going to leave it up to the techs. After the service, he said both batteries were bad and replaced them but didn’t mention anything about the drivetrain control module. I don’t think he was a particularly competent service guy because on the work list it mentioned flashing the DT WCPM from …AH to …AI. Hopefully between the new batteries and the updated Drivetrain control module I’ll be done with the dead batteries.
 
And the sad part is, they won’t stand behind their product anymore. Once you put your money down, they forget about you and focus solely on the next sale.
This is how it feels on their customer service side of things. Every single person I’ve dealt with on the customer support side of things has absolutely no power to do anything. Just a bunch of people from India answering phone calls and emails so it SEEMS like they are working for you but they don’t have the power to do anything.

Early on in my process of getting the infotainment screen replaced, I was offered an extension of my warranty since the truck was paid off and I was still able to drive it. When it came time to get that extension added to my account (6 months and 13k miles were put on the truck in the duration), I was given a phone number to call. That call resulted in 4 separate transfers with each person saying “that’s not our department, you need to talk to this department.” @RamCares who do I need to talk to on this? I’ve been given both 866-818-9929 and 800-521-9922 and neither have been able to help me.
 
I created a separate thread with video.

Do any of y'all have the same issue, where having the tailgate open makes the interior overhead lights come on and they won't turn off? And the tailgate open makes the wireless phone charging pad not work?

 
I currently have a 2020 Limited, and it's been a pretty good truck. I intend to trade it next year for an RHO. I also considered getting the new Charger EV (since they are practically giving them away) for local trips to save miles on the RHO.

After reading up on both models/engines, the thing that stands out to me is that the Charger owners are having the exact same problems with the batteries going dead. In their case, it seemed to be related to the proximity sensors, and I read references to that here as well. It boggles the mind that Stellantis can't get this right. And also that the majority (if not all) of the problems seem to be software-related. Makes me wonder if they outsourced to a software sweatshop somewhere, instead of developing in-house?
 
I created a separate thread with video.

Do any of y'all have the same issue, where having the tailgate open makes the interior overhead lights come on and they won't turn off? And the tailgate open makes the wireless phone charging pad not work?

There is a sensor for if the tailgate is open. To get the lights to turn off you just have to click the overhead button that turns off the lights for the doors. It is interesting that having a tailgate open disabled the charging pads. I just verified and it does the same thing on mine. I know that if you buy the ram tailgate extender, there are these metal pieces tied to some chords that you put into the tailgate. Originally, I thought that was just to keep it from lifting, but that actually tricks the tailgate into thinking that it is closed so all of the other things don’t happen.
 
There is a sensor for if the tailgate is open. To get the lights to turn off you just have to click the overhead button that turns off the lights for the doors. It is interesting that having a tailgate open disabled the charging pads. I just verified and it does the same thing on mine. I know that if you buy the ram tailgate extender, there are these metal pieces tied to some chords that you put into the tailgate. Originally, I thought that was just to keep it from lifting, but that actually tricks the tailgate into thinking that it is closed so all of the other things don’t happen.
Can someone post pictures or directions for these metal pieces that trick the sensors? I have the bed divider, and I installed the parts that let me use it as an extender—- but don’t know about the parts you speak of. Very interested
 
There is a sensor for if the tailgate is open. To get the lights to turn off you just have to click the overhead button that turns off the lights for the doors. It is interesting that having a tailgate open disabled the charging pads. I just verified and it does the same thing on mine. I know that if you buy the ram tailgate extender, there are these metal pieces tied to some chords that you put into the tailgate. Originally, I thought that was just to keep it from lifting, but that actually tricks the tailgate into thinking that it is closed so all of the other things don’t happen.

I tried clicking all the light-related buttons in the overhead console and nothing would turn them off. I clicked the buttons for the individual reading lamps, and I clicked the button that normally turns all the overhead lights on and off.

It SEEMED like MAYBE clicking the button in the bed that turns off the bed lights MIGHT have also turned off the interior lights, but the way I noticed that means it could have just been a coincidence and I need to try it again.

I also tried the control wheels next to the headlight switch (left of the steering wheel) and the buttons on the headlight switch for the fog lamps and the cargo bed light.

I can't see how any of it would turn off the wireless charging pad, so I think there is just something wrong. What I don't know is if it's a programming issue or a mechanical (i.e. physical wiring) issue.

I think you are saying that with your tailgate open, your overhead lights stay on - until you click the button in the overhead console to turn the interior overhead lights off, and then they go off. That would confirm (to me) that there IS something wrong with my truck. Well, duh. I mean, obviously there is something wrong with my truck.... lol!
 
I tried clicking all the light-related buttons in the overhead console and nothing would turn them off. I clicked the buttons for the individual reading lamps, and I clicked the button that normally turns all the overhead lights on and off.

It SEEMED like MAYBE clicking the button in the bed that turns off the bed lights MIGHT have also turned off the interior lights, but the way I noticed that means it could have just been a coincidence and I need to try it again.

I also tried the control wheels next to the headlight switch (left of the steering wheel) and the buttons on the headlight switch for the fog lamps and the cargo bed light.

I can't see how any of it would turn off the wireless charging pad, so I think there is just something wrong. What I don't know is if it's a programming issue or a mechanical (i.e. physical wiring) issue.

I think you are saying that with your tailgate open, your overhead lights stay on - until you click the button in the overhead console to turn the interior overhead lights off, and then they go off. That would confirm (to me) that there IS something wrong with my truck. Well, duh. I mean, obviously there is something wrong with my truck.... lol!
It’s the button that overrides the lights if a door is ajar. For me, if the tailgate is open and I press this button, none of the interior lights turn on.
 

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Can someone post pictures or directions for these metal pieces that trick the sensors? I have the bed divider, and I installed the parts that let me use it as an extender—- but don’t know about the parts you speak of. Very interested
These guys. They lock in to the actual tailgate and makes the truck think the tailgate is latched.
 

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It’s the button that overrides the lights if a door is ajar. For me, if the tailgate is open and I press this button, none of the interior lights turn on.

Okay, I am a big old dumbA$$!!

I never tried that button. I thought that button was to turn on/off the mirror auto-dimming. Obviously, I did not look at it closely enough.

The button to the right of that turns on/off the interior lights. It never occurred to me that there would be second button there that ALSO turns the interior lights on/off.

DUUUUHHHH!!!

So, that button (on the left) does indeed turn off the interior lights for me when the tailgate is open.

And, it seems that when the interior lights are on or the driver's door is open, the wireless charger turns off. That is still dumb, I think. But, the wireless charger seems to work when the overhead lights are off and the door is closed, even if the tailgate is down.

So.... I am all good now. Thank GOD I didn't take it to the dealer and go through all that just for them to go "watch this" and then push that button... lolol!!!
 
Okay, I am a big old dumbA$$!!

I never tried that button. I thought that button was to turn on/off the mirror auto-dimming. Obviously, I did not look at it closely enough.

The button to the right of that turns on/off the interior lights. It never occurred to me that there would be second button there that ALSO turns the interior lights on/off.

DUUUUHHHH!!!

So, that button (on the left) does indeed turn off the interior lights for me when the tailgate is open.

And, it seems that when the interior lights are on or the driver's door is open, the wireless charger turns off. That is still dumb, I think. But, the wireless charger seems to work when the overhead lights are off and the door is closed, even if the tailgate is down.

So.... I am all good now. Thank GOD I didn't take it to the dealer and go through all that just for them to go "watch this" and then push that button... lolol!!!
In my truck, turning on the overhead lights does not disable the wireless charging pads. Only having the door open disables them.
That is a weird design choice.
 
In my truck, turning on the overhead lights does not disable the wireless charging pads. Only having the door open disables them.
That is a weird design choice.

Mine might be the same. Probably is. I definitely do not understand why the charger ever gets disabled...
 
This is how it feels on their customer service side of things. Every single person I’ve dealt with on the customer support side of things has absolutely no power to do anything. Just a bunch of people from India answering phone calls and emails so it SEEMS like they are working for you but they don’t have the power to do anything.

Early on in my process of getting the infotainment screen replaced, I was offered an extension of my warranty since the truck was paid off and I was still able to drive it. When it came time to get that extension added to my account (6 months and 13k miles were put on the truck in the duration), I was given a phone number to call. That call resulted in 4 separate transfers with each person saying “that’s not our department, you need to talk to this department.” @RamCares who do I need to talk to on this? I’ve been given both 866-818-9929 and 800-521-9922 and neither have been able to help me.
Hi there, thanks for bringing this to our attention. Feel free to send our team a detailed private message for an extra layer of support.

Diamond
Ram Cares
 

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