2020 Ram 1500 Will Not Reliably Start

[RamCares]

Hey everyone,
Have a 2020 Ram 1500 with 53k miles. Had battery replaced a couple months ago. Worked fine since then. Last few days I get a single click when trying to start. Hook it up to a jump starter or jump from my wife's SUV and it will eventually start, but takes quite a few tries. Once it starts it will start perfectly every time until it has sat and cooled down. Then it goes back to a single click. So, I can't imagine it is a fuse or relay since it does work eventually. Battery was replaced by warranty again last night just to be sure. Alternator should be fine since I am holding about 14.5V once started. Drives fine with no electrical power issues.
Next step is to take out the starter to get it tested, but wanted to see if anyone had other recommendations first. My fear is that the starter DOES work and when I take it in they will say it is working fine. Not easy having to wait until it cools completely to recreate the problem.

Appreciate the insight.
Nick

Sorry to hear you are experiencing this, we certainly understand why this would be concerning. If you end up addressing this with your local dealer, please let us know via PM. We'd be more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Callie
Ram Cares

 

[RDawJr722]

Morning, literally having the same issue. Has it come back or did the reboot seem to do the trick?

 

[Sniper75]

Any new update?

 

[Legal Brief]

So, they all look clean and well connected to me. I installed the new battery myself and they do not wiggle at all. I just removed the starter and am going to go get it tested to see if they can detect any problems. It wasn't terribly difficult to remove. I will report what they tell me at Autozone. I know that they are not always the best for testing equipment, but it is close and fast. I have a suspicion that it isn't the starter either, but eliminating one possibility after another.

I believe you have to marry the battery to the truck. You no longer can just swap it.

 

[T brandt]

Hey everyone,
Have a 2020 Ram 1500 with 53k miles. Had battery replaced a couple months ago. Worked fine since then. Last few days I get a single click when trying to start. Hook it up to a jump starter or jump from my wife's SUV and it will eventually start, but takes quite a few tries. Once it starts it will start perfectly every time until it has sat and cooled down. Then it goes back to a single click. So, I can't imagine it is a fuse or relay since it does work eventually. Battery was replaced by warranty again last night just to be sure. Alternator should be fine since I am holding about 14.5V once started. Drives fine with no electrical power issues.
Next step is to take out the starter to get it tested, but wanted to see if anyone had other recommendations first. My fear is that the starter DOES work and when I take it in they will say it is working fine. Not easy having to wait until it cools completely to recreate the problem.

Appreciate the insight.
Nick

I have the same truck and the same problem. Like yours if I jump it it starts up. It may start reliably for a day but the next morning it’s a roll of the dice. I replaced the battery twice in 2 months. I replaced all three relays related to the ignition. Decided to let the dealership check it out. The day before taking it in the AC suddenly went from low fan to high. Next I noticed It was taking more throttle to maintain speed on the freeway. The next day on the way to the dealership it did it again. The service rep says it’s throwing all kinds of codes. I’m waiting to hear the final verdict. Did you resolve your problem ? If so what was the problem?

 

[PaulGT]

Hello Tbrandt, I am currently having the exact same issue everyone has listed here, and my motor IS an e-torque.
As I’ve discovered, there seem to be many folks having the same issue with their truck as we are.
I just hung up with the dealers service advisor, and while they have not uncovered the issue totally, they have done this so far:
1. They replaced the e-torque part. I believe he called it an MCD unit. He said there was a bad bearing in it which was quite noisy. That was a no-resolution result.
2. They installed a new battery. This was a no resolution result too.
3. They are isolating fused circuits right now as we speak. They have found one circuit which has a huge draw on it, but he didn’t tell me the details yet; other than there are about 15 things on this circuit that could possibly draw the current this much.
I will definitely let you know what the final resolution is after they tell me.
One thing to note: I do have the extended Mopar warranty on this truck, and I’m glad! 61K miles and so far they are into my truck repair over $2,000. The e-torque unit, I was told, is considered part of the emissions system, so any and all work they have done has been covered 100% by my OEM warranty.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Hello Tbrandt, I am currently having the exact same issue everyone has listed here, and my motor IS an e-torque.
As I’ve discovered, there seem to be many folks having the same issue with their truck as we are.
I just hung up with the dealers service advisor, and while they have not uncovered the issue totally, they have done this so far:
1. They replaced the e-torque part. I believe he called it an MCD unit. He said there was a bad bearing in it which was quite noisy. That was a no-resolution result.
2. They installed a new battery. This was a no resolution result too.
3. They are isolating fused circuits right now as we speak. They have found one circuit which has a huge draw on it, but he didn’t tell me the details yet; other than there are about 15 things on this circuit that could possibly draw the current this much.
I will definitely let you know what the final resolution is after they tell me.
One thing to note: I do have the extended Mopar warranty on this truck, and I’m glad! 61K miles and so far they are into my truck repair over $2,000. The e-torque unit, I was told, is considered part of the emissions system, so any and all work they have done has been covered 100% by my OEM warranty.

A key to having happy electronics is a solid B+(good battery) and sound grounds. Just my opinion...

 

[raygun9]

any updates on this, my 2020 Rebel is doing the same thing. Thought it was a battery issue so bought a new battery. Was fine for a week then started with the single click again, thinking its the starter going bad.

 

[PaulGT]

Ok… so the mechanic finally got me back on the road after Almost a month of working with my truck.. At the time of my last post, they had isolated the fuse with the heavy draw going through it, and isolated it to the connection to my BCM (Body Control Module). The connection was bad at the BCM, which was causing it to draw a huge amount of power, which eventually ruined the connection within the factory connector. They removed the factory connector, cleaned the individual wire connections on both sides of the connection point, and re-connected them using a new harness connector. Once the connections were cleaned and renewed, the dealership kept my truck for an additional 4 days, and had no issues with it. I then picked it up, and have been happily and successfully driving my truck with zero issues. It starts, runs, and works as perfect as ever.

I hope this helps someone… because this was a pain to wait for this to be resolved. Good luck everyone getting this resolved!!

PaulGT

 

[PaulGT]

any updates on this, my 2020 Rebel is doing the same thing. Thought it was a battery issue so bought a new battery. Was fine for a week then started with the single click again, thinking its the starter going bad.

Hey Rayburn…. See my reply above. I finally got my truck back and it works perfectly…

PaulGT

 

[PaulGT]

I have the same truck and the same problem. Like yours if I jump it it starts up. It may start reliably for a day but the next morning it’s a roll of the dice. I replaced the battery twice in 2 months. I replaced all three relays related to the ignition. Decided to let the dealership check it out. The day before taking it in the AC suddenly went from low fan to high. Next I noticed It was taking more throttle to maintain speed on the freeway. The next day on the way to the dealership it did it again. The service rep says it’s throwing all kinds of codes. I’m waiting to hear the final verdict. Did you resolve your problem ? If so what was the problem?

Hey T Brandt, check out my response above… but I will say I got my truck back, and it’s been perfect! It was the connection at the body control module.. They pulled it apart, cleaned all the connections, and put it back together, and it’s perfect! Good luck buddy!

PaulGT

 

[kapinallinen2]

I so wanted to be done with dealing with electronics trouble shooting, done it for 33 years as a career.
Consumer, commercial, marine, industrial and then some.
And, no, back in the game again.

 

[TBMSport]

Ok… so the mechanic finally got me back on the road after Almost a month of working with my truck.. At the time of my last post, they had isolated the fuse with the heavy draw going through it, and isolated it to the connection to my BCM (Body Control Module). The connection was bad at the BCM, which was causing it to draw a huge amount of power, which eventually ruined the connection within the factory connector. They removed the factory connector, cleaned the individual wire connections on both sides of the connection point, and re-connected them using a new harness connector. Once the connections were cleaned and renewed, the dealership kept my truck for an additional 4 days, and had no issues with it. I then picked it up, and have been happily and successfully driving my truck with zero issues. It starts, runs, and works as perfect as ever.

I hope this helps someone… because this was a pain to wait for this to be resolved. Good luck everyone getting this resolved!!

PaulGT

Mine has been doing this click no start thing for the past 2 months unless you put jumpers on it , until last . At that point it just absolutely refused to start. I gave in and had it towed to the dealership and they just got back to me with $1,000 bill for a new starter. Now I'm suspicious that that's actually the problem as it always did a click and seem to show a drain on the instrument panel's battery meter.

 

[TBMSport]

Considering over the past year and a half my Ram has been experiencing weird interior function glitches such as the entire touch screen just not coming on at all, intermittent disconnects from XM Radio, intermittent charging functionality of the USB ports, voltage warning light on the instrument panel claiming something was wrong with the hybrid battery system, and then more recently in the past 3 months intermittent clicking of the starter no start and then delayed start issues, I'm beginning to think the BCM may have been getting moisture from either defrosting the windshield or just general condensation that may build up and run down during air conditioning use on hot and humid days. Seems a little bit of poor design if misting water on the inside of a windshield can cause the BCM to freak out. I mean how many times has someone probably spray the inside of their windshield with Windex and attempt to properly maintain their vehicle only to possibly destroy their BCM? I think I'm going to report this to the NHTSA.

 

[Darksteel165]

Considering over the past year and a half my Ram has been experiencing weird interior function glitches such as the entire touch screen just not coming on at all, intermittent disconnects from XM Radio, intermittent charging functionality of the USB ports, voltage warning light on the instrument panel claiming something was wrong with the hybrid battery system, and then more recently in the past 3 months intermittent clicking of the starter no start and then delayed start issues, I'm beginning to think the BCM may have been getting moisture from either defrosting the windshield or just general condensation that may build up and run down during air conditioning use on hot and humid days. Seems a little bit of poor design if misting water on the inside of a windshield can cause the BCM to freak out. I mean how many times has someone probably spray the inside of their windshield with Windex and attempt to properly maintain their vehicle only to possibly destroy their BCM? I think I'm going to report this to the NHTSA.

You shouldn't be spraying windex on the inside of your windshield. Any glass surface that you are spraying upside down on is a bad idea.
I always spray it on a towel and work it in.

You can't just say getting water inside your truck is normal and X and Y should be done. Don't get water inside your truck on electronics. Windshields don't\shouldn't leak when properly installed, and you should know when they are.
Go ahead and report it to NHTSA that someone\something got water inside your dash and your truck doesn't work properly I wish you luck with that.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Considering over the past year and a half my Ram has been experiencing weird interior function glitches such as the entire touch screen just not coming on at all, intermittent disconnects from XM Radio, intermittent charging functionality of the USB ports, voltage warning light on the instrument panel claiming something was wrong with the hybrid battery system, and then more recently in the past 3 months intermittent clicking of the starter no start and then delayed start issues, I'm beginning to think the BCM may have been getting moisture from either defrosting the windshield or just general condensation that may build up and run down during air conditioning use on hot and humid days. Seems a little bit of poor design if misting water on the inside of a windshield can cause the BCM to freak out. I mean how many times has someone probably spray the inside of their windshield with Windex and attempt to properly maintain their vehicle only to possibly destroy their BCM? I think I'm going to report this to the NHTSA.

There is no way you are getting enough moisture on your windshield running the A/C to run down and damage the BCM. You would have to carry a rag with you and constantly wiping your windshield to see out

 

[HSKR R/T]

You shouldn't be spraying windex on the inside of your windshield. Any glass surface that you are spraying upside down on is a bad idea.
I always spray it on a towel and work it in.

You can't just say getting water inside your truck is normal and X and Y should be done. Don't get water inside your truck on electronics. Windshields don't\shouldn't leak when properly installed, and you should know when they are.
Go ahead and report it to NHTSA that someone\something got water inside your dash and your truck doesn't work properly I wish you luck with that.

I use the Stoner's Invisible Glass foaming glass cleaner. It doesn't run down the glass.

 

[Darksteel165]

There is no way you are getting enough moisture on your windshield running the A/C to run down and damage the BCM. You would have to carry a rag with you and constantly wiping your windshield to see out

Assuming it's really the BCM, which I don't think so. Can the BCM really fry a starter? I mean anything is possible when it comes to technology\electronics.

I use the Stoner's Invisible Glass foaming glass cleaner. It doesn't run down the glass.

The inside of my glass is always very clean. I just use a towel or a microfiber cloth dry. I have used rainx spray on the inside before but it didn't seem anything special at least on the inside.
I always get massive water spots on the outside windows (non-windshield) even if I dry my truck though. I wonder how that spray might work

 

[TBMSport]

I'm always intriguiged by how many "confident keyboard experts" absolutely know for sure how XYZ absolutely can't work or could never happen in a truck that they haven't built or assembled or disassembled simply because, well they said so. Having owned tens of new and used cars, amd worked as a dealer service advisor/manager from several makes and having experienced interior water damage from the darndest of places, I find it audaciously arrogant to reason that anything around the glass insulated by rubber to steel and known to collect very visible condensation/frost could not possibly leak (particularly when our trucks are already known to leak in the back glass and sunroof). And particularly in light of the fact that already supporting evidence to the contrary that was already posted and stated.

Nonetheless, it has already been reported to the NHTSA. But no worries. Something that might benefit you, cost you no money, cost you no effort, is definitely something that you should publicly just take a huge great dump and **** on. So, if they do have substantial findings that Stellantis does have a problem and your truck is covered under a recall, you have the constitutional right to not partake in that recall, and pay out of pocket for any repairs that your truck has related to the problem. So you're welcome.

 

[Darksteel165]

I'm always intriguiged by how many "confident keyboard experts" absolutely know for sure how XYZ absolutely can't work or could never happen in a truck that they haven't built or assembled or disassembled simply because, well they said so. Having owned tens of new and used cars, amd worked as a dealer service advisor/manager from several makes and having experienced interior water damage from the darndest of places, I find it audaciously arrogant to reason that anything around the glass insulated by rubber to steel and known to collect very visible condensation/frost could not possibly leak (particularly when our trucks are already known to leak in the back glass and sunroof). And particularly in light of the fact that already supporting evidence to the contrary that was already posted and stated.

Nonetheless, it has already been reported to the NHTSA. But no worries. Something that might benefit you, cost you no money, cost you no effort, is definitely something that you should publicly just take a huge great dump and **** on. So, if they do have substantial findings that Stellantis does have a problem and your truck is covered under a recall, you have the constitutional right to not partake in that recall, and pay out of pocket for any repairs that your truck has related to the problem. So you're welcome.

My windshield doesn't **** water in this truck or any car\truck I have ever owned so i'm all set.

If you are leaking water from your windshield you need to seal it, as it was sealed incorrectly (obviously). As by you, I mean a windshield installation company (which normally results in needing a new windshield).

The rear window leaks have 0 to do with improperly sealed equipment, and is almost always because it gets broken.
I have not seen anyone having a windshield with the same synonyms of the rear window leak, as the rear window cracks on plastic and allows water to come through.

Are you like putting water bottles with loose caps on your dash? I don't understand how you can possibly think you are getting water up there, nor how this is some worldwide problem that Ram needs to have a recall for from NHTSA

Funny you talk about "confident keyboard experts" and then say "glass insulated by rubber to steel".
You don't even have the slightest clue what compounds are used to seal windshields to your truck, rubber LOL. Urethane or Polyurethane are generally used now and neither of which are rubber.

Maybe do a little research and look around and see what is going on vs asking the internet for help and just get mad with the info you get.