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2019+ Rams with Lifts/Levels, and/or aftermarket wheel tire setups

CHeYeNNe71 said:
Finally did the lift, this is right after and I still have some work to do. I've got the rear full Core4X4 Arms, Panhard, Hellwig to install. Sits at 40 Front/40.5 Rear, but also have old suspension in bed at moment.

BDS 3" w/ FOX Elite 2.5's. KMC Technic 20X9 Powder coated Maximum Steel Metallic, same as truck. Falken Wildpeak AT4W 285/65

View attachment 202516View attachment 202517
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Badass brother!
 
just realized i never posted my most updated suspension package here:
1750828147899.png
Just kidding.
I went from this:
1750828256053.png
To this:
1750828305913.png

Suspension package:
F&R - Fox 2.5 DSC
UCA - Carli
Front end link - suspension max 2" (or whatever the equivalent is)
Rear end link - Carli
Rear spring - Clayton 2.5" HD Triple Rate (Jeep JT Springs)

Things changed:
Front - Stock Fox 450lb spring swapped to Eibach 700lb spring
Rear - Carli Rebel HD springs (1.5") swapped to Clayton 2.5" HD Triple Rate
All 4 corners - nitrogen recharged to 250psi (went higher than Fox recommended long time ago. it was at 230psi all around before I replaced the springs)

Benefits:
  1. Fixed the sagging due to weight and possibly spring fatigue due to high speed suspension travel
  2. Fixed the front end bottoming out when hitting big dips or jumps despite full stiff everything
  3. Retained the stance, does not look "stock height" anymore
  4. No more rubbing at full lock
  5. Rear can handle my full overland weight without sagging now.
Drawbacks:
  1. Sacrificed down travel and droop due to higher ride height (6" of down travel now down to 4" of down travel)
    1. Not really a big deal because with 6" of down travel and 2" of up travel I was hitting fender too often. sacrificed some droop for up travel and no more bottoming out
  2. Much stiffer ride on road. (mitigated through turning low speed compression to 1 click instead of full max, but still on stiff side. However that means I still have good handling)
  3. I am at near 0 preload adjustment due to not enough weight in the front.
 
CHeYeNNe71 said:
New Updated and Cleaned Pics!! Loving the ride. Adjusted them for a firmer ride. Highly Recommend! :cool:


View attachment 202781View attachment 202782View attachment 202783View attachment 202784View attachment 202785
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I used a white paint marker to mark my on road settings. That way I can move them right back to those settings after the dirt. And, I have actually had some ****head **** with my settings in a parking lot when I wasn't around. Makes it quick and easy to get back to your preferred settings. I make my adjustments while airing up or down. I also got this wrench off of Etsy for the 2.5's It really helps when they decide to be tight.Fox Wrench.jpg
 
range-industries.com

Fox DSC Adjustment Helper Knob

CNC machined helper knob for turning Fox's high speed DSC adjuster. Knob is made from Delrin to prevent damage to shocks. Note: If backordered parts typically ship within 2 weeks.
range-industries.com range-industries.com
this is the tool I got for my DSC high speed knob because it is a royal PITA to turn beyond the initial 3 clicks. The small knob is fine as long as you clean it up after going through places with really sticky mud (Dempster, Dalton, etc)

$30 for molded tool is not that bad of a deal.
 
1BADRAMLIMITED said:
looks sweet man! is that GCM or what paint is that? really wish i could find a topper for my truck close/cheap!
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Thanks!! Maximum Steel Metallic. I see them all the time on FB Marketplace. I found mine on Offerup and this color is very hard to find anything for. I got lucky, plus I was otw to buy a color matched Tonneau when I came across this. Top of line Leer. Love the solid side window.

Try this site, searches Craigslist by distance SearchTempest: Search all of Facebook Marketplace, craigslist & more
 
CHeYeNNe71 said:
Yes with Adjustable Struts from Bilstein, Eibach or Fox Coilovers. The difference being, with new engine weight difference, you might get a different amount of lift from say the Hemi settings shown in their instructions, until they specify for 25+
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Do you think 2" front "pucks" would work? Or do i have to actually swap shocks like you mention above.
 
Hayride said:
Do you think 2" front "pucks" would work? Or do i have to actually swap shocks like you mention above.
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My opinion, spacers are garbage and do not allow for a proper working suspension. They limit up travel and don't limit down travel. Always do a suspension swap for any level or lift. I also recommend doing rear shocks even when doing level, so all 4 corners have the same valving.

1752242403963.png
 
CHeYeNNe71 said:
My opinion, spacers are garbage and do not allow for a proper working suspension. They limit up travel and don't limit down travel. Always do a suspension swap for any level or lift. I also recommend doing rear shocks even when doing level, so all 4 corners have the same valving.

View attachment 203268
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yeah, thing is i know you are right. I've aways done full suspension lifts, i'm just asking the dumb question because i'm being lazy. I'll hold off and do the full swap later on as a truck refresh. Thanks for the input and logic check.
 
Not true. If the coil spring is the same length, then you're getting the lift from extending the effective length of the strut assembly. Now, you can do this by putting a spacer on top, or by moving the collar on the bottom up as in the case of the Bilstein, but in BOTH cases the way it all works is going to be the same and you're going to have the same range of motion.

The reason spacers are my preference is because they do not alter ride quality nearly as much from stock, they are far less expensive, and it's more predictable how much lift you're going to end up with.

I've got one truck in my driveway right now with 231,000 miles on it and it's had a 3" spacer lift on it for the last 15 years. And I just put a 1.5" spacer lift on the front of my new 2025 this past weekend actually. I'm very happy with both of them. I've done the Bilsteins in the past on other 4x4s but they ride stiff and I just don't like them.
 
WXman said:
Not true. If the coil spring is the same length, then you're getting the lift from extending the effective length of the strut assembly. Now, you can do this by putting a spacer on top, or by moving the collar on the bottom up as in the case of the Bilstein, but in BOTH cases the way it all works is going to be the same and you're going to have the same range of motion.

The reason spacers are my preference is because they do not alter ride quality nearly as much from stock, they are far less expensive, and it's more predictable how much lift you're going to end up with.

I've got one truck in my driveway right now with 231,000 miles on it and it's had a 3" spacer lift on it for the last 15 years. And I just put a 1.5" spacer lift on the front of my new 2025 this past weekend actually. I'm very happy with both of them. I've done the Bilsteins in the past on other 4x4s but they ride stiff and I just don't like them.
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You're entitled to your opinion while I'll deal with the facts from suspension experts. They are NOT the same, or even close. If you want to go cheap, that is your option. I will not recommend garbage spacers as I love a proper working suspension. Tell that to others that have popped ball joints.
 
Spacers could be ok if a) you stay on road and b) do not have progressive rate coils.

And by ok, I mean just ok.

They do preserve the stock ride quality better - on smooth surfaces, anyway - but whether or not that is a good thing is an opinion that obviously varies widely.

If the suspension is likely to see any material articulation, spacers are a big problem due to unlimited down travel and stymied up travel.

But I’d argue an even bigger problem is a spacer gives someone room to run massive tire setups, and the stock suspension is not suited to managing massive unspring weight. And that’s what adversely affects rude quality IMHO.

Not everyone, but tons of folks spend $200 on spacers so they can run $4k wheels and tires that add 80 lbs more per corner.

I’m more of a function over form person, and that’s why I cannot abide strut spacers.
 
This is not a new issue. Pucks have been ruining front ends for decades. You have info from people who been doing this for decades. Take the excellent advice and stay away from pucks. There are better alternatives for not much more money and they've all been dicussed here.
 
H2OMAN said:
This is not a new issue. Pucks have been ruining front ends for decades. You have info from people who been doing this for decades. Take the excellent advice and stay away from pucks. There are better alternatives for not much more money and they've all been dicussed here.
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I can attest to that. New cvs, uca, lca, intermediate shafts, end links. You name it.
Drop the pucks and go for a real lift.

You want to be taller? Break your legs like a man, don’t wear heels.
 
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