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1st Oil Change Questions - Warranty voiding...

Forget the bags & jugs....we're living in the modern age and there are solutions to almost any problem (well...except understanding women..lol):


I also saw something like this at Walmart - a cheaper knockoff made of all plastic/rubber with a drain tube but still seemed ok for a once or twice a year job.
 
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Is the filter straight up and down or sideways? If sideways, the above tool will not work..but it is very creative.
 
Forget the bags & jugs....we're living in the modern age and there are solutions to almost any problem (well...except understanding women..lol):


I also saw something like this at Walmart - a cheaper knockoff made of all plastic/rubber with a drain tube but still seemed ok for a once or twice a year job.

I don't think this would fit and there isn't a way to remove it out of the space without tipping it.
 
I changed mine at 1000 and then again at 5000 and will do every 5000 going forward. I use PP oil and will be using Wix XP filters going forward.
 
I don't think this would fit and there isn't a way to remove it out of the space without tipping it.

Good point...from what I see it is very tight and you wouldn't be able to get it out without trouble....there's also this (which comes in an extended version for trucks) which might work :



Gets decent reviews on Amazon:

 
I haven't been changing my oil all that long... (almost 30 years...) and my 2019 truck is on oil change #6 currently. I have learned over the years to never let your local Meineke, Grease Monkey, Jiffy lube, brakes plus, walmart, or any other minimum wage daily rotating employees shop to do work on your car.... After dealing with their mistakes a couple of times, I only trust myself and allow the dealer to do it if it is cost and time effective (if their giving me the first 4 free oil changes). I change my own oil for between $24-36. Don't have to worry about the dealer scheduling, loaner car, or dropping my other car at the dealer the night before to have a vehicle.

I recommend the following.

1. Filter - Mobil 1, Mopar, Wix, Napa Gold, Bosch, or Purolator.
2. Oil - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 full synthetic. If you have a little extra change laying around feel free to go with Royal Purple, or Amsoil.
3. Gallon zip lock bag over the filter once you break it loose and pull it out inside the bag.
4. Recommend to get a quick drain valve for the oil. Fumoto, or what I prefer the Valvomax or the Femco. Super quick and easy and no tools needed and with the supplied spout you can drain into just about any size oil container.

Happy motoring, driving, towing, or off roading!
But you miss the popcorn and coffee!
Course I drink “swill” so whatever they have is usually ok, except for my neighborhood Firestone which leaves the carafe on for hours and its tar.
I’ve been known to go to the RAM dealer locally and drop off for service then walk down the street and stop into the Lexus store, they have nicer food...:whistle:
 
But you miss the popcorn and coffee!
Course I drink “swill” so whatever they have is usually ok, except for my neighborhood Firestone which leaves the carafe on for hours and its tar.
I’ve been known to go to the RAM dealer locally and drop off for service then walk down the street and stop into the Lexus store, they have nicer food...:whistle:
I stop into the Mercedes dealership and get a free made to order breakfast...really:giggle:
 
The finance person is full of ****. Use a Mopar filter and the oil within specs. Keep the receipts.
They put the sneakiest greaseball top sales dog in this position for a reason....to make you spend more than you need to all for pure profit and fill their pockets they will lie , lie , lie to keep you spending...30 cars I have been through in my life so far and I NEVER talk to "finance guy" Last 3 purchases I spent less than 30 mins total doing my paperwork I bought exactly what I wanted at the time nothing else.
 
The only way changing you own oil would ever be questioned by the dealer would be if it were a lubrication related failure. And then all you need to do is show your recipts for oil and filters to document your maintenance.

I have changed my own oil from the get go on all the new vehicles I've ever owned. I have never had a dealer question a warranty issue or ask to see my oil change documentation.
 
The only way changing you own oil would ever be questioned by the dealer would be if it were a lubrication related failure. And then all you need to do is show your recipts for oil and filters to document your maintenance.

I have changed my own oil from the get go on all the new vehicles I've ever owned. I have never had a dealer question a warranty issue or ask to see my oil change documentation.
^^^ This ^^^
 
This thread stayed pretty civil, this topic usually gets people pretty fired up. I’m going to throw my two cents in.
Your first oil change shouldn’t be done early. I learned this from my neighbor who was a master mechanic for GM. I changed my oil as a teenager on my moms new car at 3k miles and he scolded me. He said that’s a urban myth. He said that the engine should go until the maintenance light comes on. The assembly lube is absolutely necessary to allow proper break in of the engine. He said the myth was true back in the day when engines were built with much looser tolerances and machining media was sometimes not completely cleaned out. Today’s engines are much higher tolerances and much cleaner. He said the higher tolerances make the assembly lubricants much more important for proper break in. Will it damage your engine to change it early, probably not, but it is a waste to do it early.

As far as changing your oil yourself, there’s pride in knowing the job is done right. I’ve never heard of anyone having a warranty claim being denied because of it. As mentioned, it is a sales tactic to sell maintenance plans. Should everyone change their own oil, no, you need basic mechanical knowledge and not everyone has that skill. You can make costly mistakes if it’s done wrong.

The oil you use is important, but I’ve had friends that use regular conventional oil and the cars last well over 200k. The engines do get stained with some build up over time with regular oil versus clean and pretty with only synthetic.

Oil filters also give you headaches since Fram filters are cheap and the most widely available. Always spend a little more and get a better filter. There are tons of videos on YouTube where guys cut into the filter and show you the guts. It makes the decision much easier.
 
This thread stayed pretty civil, this topic usually gets people pretty fired up. I’m going to throw my two cents in.
Your first oil change shouldn’t be done early. I learned this from my neighbor who was a master mechanic for GM. I changed my oil as a teenager on my moms new car at 3k miles and he scolded me. He said that’s a urban myth. He said that the engine should go until the maintenance light comes on. The assembly lube is absolutely necessary to allow proper break in of the engine. He said the myth was true back in the day when engines were built with much looser tolerances and machining media was sometimes not completely cleaned out. Today’s engines are much higher tolerances and much cleaner. He said the higher tolerances make the assembly lubricants much more important for proper break in. Will it damage your engine to change it early, probably not, but it is a waste to do it early.

As far as changing your oil yourself, there’s pride in knowing the job is done right. I’ve never heard of anyone having a warranty claim being denied because of it. As mentioned, it is a sales tactic to sell maintenance plans. Should everyone change their own oil, no, you need basic mechanical knowledge and not everyone has that skill. You can make costly mistakes if it’s done wrong.

The oil you use is important, but I’ve had friends that use regular conventional oil and the cars last well over 200k. The engines do get stained with some build up over time with regular oil versus clean and pretty with only synthetic.

Oil filters also give you headaches since Fram filters are cheap and the most widely available. Always spend a little more and get a better filter. There are tons of videos on YouTube where guys cut into the filter and show you the guts. It makes the decision much easier.
You mean clearances, not tolerances. Clearance is the distance between moving parts, tolerance is the allowable amount of variation, or error, allowed in the target clearance dimension. The Fram Ultra is one of the best oil filters available, while it's relatively inexpensive it is not cheaply made. Two layers of synthetic filtering material with wire backing for support that traps 99% of particles as small as 20 microns. With a silicone ADBV and it's capability of being used up to 20,000 miles, it's very difficult to find a better filter.
 
Some people have way too much free time on their hands. Why on earth anyone would want to rotate their own tires is beyond me. Discount Tire does it for free. I'm in & out of there in 30 minutes. Oil changes at the dealership. Semi synthetic is fine. I also use 87 octane gas which some people spaz out about on this forum. It's just a truck. I also go to a car wash with brushes. 🤪
 
Some people have way too much free time on their hands. Why on earth anyone would want to rotate their own tires is beyond me. Discount Tire does it for free. I'm in & out of there in 30 minutes. Oil changes at the dealership. Semi synthetic is fine. I also use 87 octane gas which some people spaz out about on this forum. It's just a truck. I also go to a car wash with brushes.
Everyone's level of OCD is different, for me it's that I don't have to leave the house to do this stuff. I can do it when it's convenient for me and I don't have to wait at the shop for them to do it. Time is precious.
Plus, I've seen and experienced enough filters that you can't get off or oil drain plugs you can't get out or are stripped. Who knows if they're using the right stuff or if it's cheap bulk crap....

I prefer AMSOIL and will continue to use it and do my own maintenance until I can no longer do it myself.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 
This thread stayed pretty civil, this topic usually gets people pretty fired up. I’m going to throw my two cents in.
Your first oil change shouldn’t be done early. I learned this from my neighbor who was a master mechanic for GM. I changed my oil as a teenager on my moms new car at 3k miles and he scolded me. He said that’s a urban myth. He said that the engine should go until the maintenance light comes on. The assembly lube is absolutely necessary to allow proper break in of the engine. He said the myth was true back in the day when engines were built with much looser tolerances and machining media was sometimes not completely cleaned out. Today’s engines are much higher tolerances and much cleaner. He said the higher tolerances make the assembly lubricants much more important for proper break in. Will it damage your engine to change it early, probably not, but it is a waste to do it early.

As far as changing your oil yourself, there’s pride in knowing the job is done right. I’ve never heard of anyone having a warranty claim being denied because of it. As mentioned, it is a sales tactic to sell maintenance plans. Should everyone change their own oil, no, you need basic mechanical knowledge and not everyone has that skill. You can make costly mistakes if it’s done wrong.

The oil you use is important, but I’ve had friends that use regular conventional oil and the cars last well over 200k. The engines do get stained with some build up over time with regular oil versus clean and pretty with only synthetic.

Oil filters also give you headaches since Fram filters are cheap and the most widely available. Always spend a little more and get a better filter. There are tons of videos on YouTube where guys cut into the filter and show you the guts. It makes the decision much easier.
This is an example of the difference between theory and practice. In theory, the assembly lube is useful the whole time it’s there. In practice, at least there factors affect that: - 1) lithium assembly grease is diluted beyond effectiveness in the first minutes of oil flow 2) molybdenum disulfide assembly lubricants have relatively short lives, are difficult to stay suspended and are bad at corrosion inhibtion, 3) at 3000 miles or 50 hours of operation, the engine is broken in.

With all due respect to the mechanic, the factory fill, even with assembly lubes diluted into it, is no better than a top quality lubricant, after break-in. I see lots of value to replacing the oil filter at that point, and the oil with it.

oh, and BTW, tolerances are essential tools for engineering clearances...
 
I have been changing my own oil for over 20 years, but I definitely don’t want to void the warranty by doing it myself.
 

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