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1st Oil Change Questions - Warranty voiding...

Lawsuits aside, and I don't change my oil anymore except on my plane, but no one seems to have addressed technique since you're worried about warranty.

My dad always taught me you want to run the motor for about 5 minutes before you change the oil. This puts any particles at the bottom of the pan in suspension so they come out when you drain it, but doesn't get it so hot you burn you hand. Also, take a little bit of used oil on your index finger and apply it to the o ring on the new filter.

Matt
 
I like to fill the filter with a little oil, I know it's not much but it reduces the time the engine is running without oil. It made a lot more sense on my 5.9 Cummins, that filter held a full quart.

Amazon has been my new source for oil, 5 quart jugs of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are usually $23
 
They can only deny the claim if they can PROVE that the use of a non-oem product caused the damage.


Unfortunately that isnt the whole story.

I am someone who has had a dealer deny service (not on a Ram) because of aftermarket replacement parts. YES, technically there is a law protecting you from this kind of discrimination. But in practice, my dealer said no and my only recourse was to sue to get them to 'prove' it. You cant force them to cover the repair if they say no. Obviously you can start complaining up the chain and get a lawyer. But it will become a big pain very quickly if simply going to the manager or calling corporate doesnt work.



EDIT----- Sorry to beat the dead horse. Didnt read the rest of the thread to see some had already made the same point.
 
Wow, first, thank you for all the great advice! I plan to keep great records as I always have. I know it isn't necessary and overkill, but I'm going to change my first oil at 2500, then 5000 and then every 5000 after that.

Pennzoil platinum just dropped to $16.24 per 5qts at Walmart and Amazon, that is a big drop in price and I'm going to pick up a bunch at that price!

As for filter, I'm still on fence because everything I read gives the Mobil 1 filters great reviews and has same features as mopar one.

As for the dealer, I was there on Friday to have them look at my misaligned ram boxes and back door as well as my rusting lug nuts. I asked about an oil change package and they said they don't offer it right now as it's a losing dealing for them. I asked what an oil change go for, it is $39 for semi and $70 for full synthetic. Not including tire rotation. I scheduled service for fixes and added oil change for now unless I think better of it. They were adamant that I did not use synthetic.

So...yeah. I need to make decisions.
 
Wow, first, thank you for all the great advice! I plan to keep great records as I always have. I know it isn't necessary and overkill, but I'm going to change my first oil at 2500, then 5000 and then every 5000 after that.

Pennzoil platinum just dropped to $16.24 per 5qts at Walmart and Amazon, that is a big drop in price and I'm going to pick up a bunch at that price!

As for filter, I'm still on fence because everything I read gives the Mobil 1 filters great reviews and has same features as mopar one.

As for the dealer, I was there on Friday to have them look at my misaligned ram boxes and back door as well as my rusting lug nuts. I asked about an oil change package and they said they don't offer it right now as it's a losing dealing for them. I asked what an oil change go for, it is $39 for semi and $70 for full synthetic. Not including tire rotation. I scheduled service for fixes and added oil change for now unless I think better of it. They were adamant that I did not use synthetic.
For what it’s worth, “full synthetic” at the dealership is Pennzoil Platinum. They won’t even have Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in their inventory. My calculated cost for changing my own oil with just under 7 qts of PUP and a Mobil 1 EP filter a few weeks ago was $44.83. No need to schedule an appointment across town for more money and (arguably) inferior service. I enter service records both in my own spreadsheet and in the Mopar owner’s center online.

BUT I’ll also say this...it’s very important that your oil be changed on a regular basis with the recommended weight of oil. It’s far less important which brand or tier of oil you use; this is really just a strong preference for many of us. Motor oils have evolved significantly over the years, and even a “basic” oil can be “good”. Some of us just prefer what we view as “best”, taking into account Chrysler certification.
 
What is the right Mopar filter number? I'm finding different ones and want to confirm.
 
What is the right Mopar filter number? I'm finding different ones and want to confirm.
Just in case you need the OEM filter model #s: Filter from first oil change is 04892339AA / 50048919 which is the MO 339. FYI K&N filter is HP-1017 which has the "wrench off" feature on the filter.
 
Glad I was mailed the oem mopar 4 oil changes for $70 coupon/postcard. Made my decision easy.

And on a side note, was reading onthe oil usage 5.0 F150 thread, didnt realize they have such a large oil capacity now:
”The oil capacity of the 2018+ 5.0 is 9 quarts max and all the previous versions were 8 quarts max. From what I understand this was due to the new plastic oil pan design which increased capacity.”
Thats a lot of oil...
 
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My dealership offers the same deal however if you have a hemi or need more than 5qts there is a higher charge. Also they have to be used with-in two years. Anyone now how much extra they charge for the hemi and extra 2qts of oil?

Did you ever find out the answer to this?
 
I seem to remember that some will charge the extra quarts at full price. Though I can't say for certain as I've not done a dealer change and never will.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 
My experience with multiple vehicles across brands has been the following. Can they (fca) deny warranty claims if you are under warranty and have properly maintained the vehicle? No. Does the MM act protect you? Yes. But sometimes short of threatening to sue and getting a lawyer, they can make your life extremely difficult.

Here’s why it isn’t as easy as it SHOULD be. All dealerships are independently owned and operated. They have agreements with the manufacturer, in this case FCA, but they aren’t obligated to work on any vehicle. The dealer makes their own independent decisions. FCA can pressure them but at the end of the day if the dealer makes up a bunch of excuses (or lies), the manufacturer will back off and the dealer does whatever they want.

So why would a dealer want to do this if the problem is covered under warranty and they are getting paid for the work anyway? Therein lies the answer. Because the dealer gets paid a fixed rate for jobs. Each issue has a rated number of hours allocated to it. The dealer has to get the issue fixed within those hours, at an agreed upon (reduced) rate. If not, they have to argue with corporate to get additional hours approved, etc.

That’s why when there is an undefined or unknown issue, the dealer doesn’t want to be bothered trying to figure it out, chasing down gremlins and going down rabbit holes. It’s hard for them to bill corporate for that time and again it’s at a reduced rate. So chasing down leaks and noises is going to be of zero interest to most dealers (not all, there are good ones) if it is a warranty issue. If you are paying out of pocket and not under warranty, it’s a whole different story. They will take all the time they need and bill you for it.

Ive been there several times before, not with FCA although I have no expectation they would be any different. I’d have a problem. It’s under warranty. Dealer can’t figure it out. Sorry, move along. Or we found it but we think it’s your fault (which translates to we aren’t going to get paid enough from corporate to fix it so we don’t want to do the work at a reduced rate). Move along. So you call corporate and they tell you that they will “try” to help and yes you are covered under warranty BUT they can’t force the dealer to do anything since they are independently owned. They will try to help you find another more reasonable dealer. That’s fine for the most part if you live somewhere where you can throw a quarter in any direction and hit a dealership but if you live somewhere where the dealers are separated by 100 miles, you better hope the dealer is good to work with because otherwise if you have issues you will learn that your warranty is only worth so much.

Anyway, that’s been my experience with warranties and dealers etc. I have found this to be the case across brands because it’s a dollars and cents thing. They are playing a volume game. Unfortunately no single customer is worth as much as you might like to think. Your experience is highly dependent on: 1:) luck 2.) dealer 3.) location 4.) willingness and ability to argue 5.) willingness and ability to litigate if necessary

end rant. YMMV

^THIS should be printed out on a leaflet, stapled to the "factory warranty" and supplied to/read by anyone who buys a new vehicle (not just FCA).
 
Did you ever find out the answer to this?
My dealer charges $2.50 extra per qt for dino oil. I've had it done twice there for the single $2.50 charge. My son, with the identical year hemi, took his to Firestone and they charged him $3 per quart (x 2) for the extra. oil Just varies by what they feel like doing. I would say that it takes more than 6 exact quarts, so charging for the 7th quart is likely fair.
(Like I said about the F150 5.0 for 2019, they are a 9 qt system. Now that's a lot to pay for, especially if full synthetic).
 
A read for all the non-believers out there


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Other than posting a sign that says there is a Moss-Magnuson Act what does it change. If they deny coverage it's still the long slog to rectify the situation. Don't get me wrong, the act is needed but it adds nothing to the enforcement nor recovery under the act AFAICS.
 
In this case, and overall, I believe the problem is more about the dealers and their employees misleading the average consumer that comes in buy a car.
Dealers hate well informed customers, because they can't get it over on them...but to be fair, there's a lot more people out there that don't know or don't care than do know and do care. So the majority of us here on the forum are in the minority
 
In this case, and overall, I believe the problem is more about the dealers and their employees misleading the average consumer that comes in buy a car.
Dealers hate well informed customers, because they can't get it over on them...but to be fair, there's a lot more people out there that don't know or don't care than do know and do care. So the majority of us here on the forum are in the minority

Yep...not to pat myself on the back but when I went to buy my new Ram, once they realized I did my research and knew my sh*t about pricing, financing, "extras", etc. they backed off and just wanted to get the deal done asap - the BS went out the window and we worked the numbers & got a deal done. In fact when I was "turned over" to the finance guy he didn't try to upsell me on anything - just handing me paperwork to read and sign off on. When I got back with my sales guy who asked how it went, I replied it went surprisingly easy and he didn't try to badger me at all - the salesman said that's because he "pre-warned" him that I wasn't going to budge on extras, extended warranty, etc.

Contrast this to many people who fall for their lines (not that I'm blaming them totally - their job is to maximize profit for their employer and hold down a job to provide for their families) and wind up like a deer in the headlights at the mercy of the dealership looking for an "easy kill".
 

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