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Maximum towing is mainly based on engine and rear differential gears. Like @Eighty said, you're almost always going to hit your payload limit on a 1500 truck before you hit towing capacity.
Per your sticker, the GVWR is 7100 and your curb weight is 7100-1422 = 5678. GCWR is 17000-5678, so max...
55k miles on my spacers, should get another 40k or so until I replace my struts at 100k and go with leveling struts or coilover setup. No sense wasting my OEM struts or trying to sell for pennies on the dollar.
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Nah. Your Band-aid example was perfect. Why get stitches for a paper cut when a Band-aid will work perfectly fine? On the flip side of that, a Band-aid won't work on a 2cm wide cut. They have separate use cases. The people that don't understand that and expect spacers to equal struts or...
Haha, don't try to tell Cheyenne anything suspension, he's the expert. Spacers don't work and will make your ball joints fail 100% of the time. Completely disregard the millions of people that use them within their use case that have zero issues.
Nobody said anything about what the OP asked for either. Spacers are just fine if you understand that they are the budget option to get a lift and don't treat them like high end components.
To answer your question @tkee, I have 2" spacers (not pre-load spacers) and Rough Country UCA's on my truck. Spacers have been on for 55k miles, and the UCA's have been on for 20k miles with mild off-roading. As long as you're not doing really aggressive off-roading, any billet aluminum spacer...
It's possible. Your thoughts on it rubbing while backing up are also possible. Someone standing outside the truck while it happens would be the best source.
I have about 2" in the rear (including OEM 1") on my stock Bilsteins on the Rebel. As long as you're not doing aggressive off roading where you're maxing out travel you won't see any issues.
Went with a Viofo A229 Pro front and rear. Put the rear cam where everyone else has and the front above the mirror driver side. Very happy with it so far. Used to have a cheap Rexing, and while it did the job it definitely lacked a lot of the features I wanted.
Just know that any weight you add to the truck after it was manufactured lowers the payload rating and therefore the tow rating of the truck. Lift, tires, wheels, jumper cables, trailer hitch, McDonald's wrappers, etc.
He bought it, the next day he took it to a car wash, and 20 minutes after the car wash he had issues.
@tomd2657 I agree with mike. It sounds like water intrusion. Do you have e-torque? Water coming in the back through the window, third brake light, or shark fin and hitting the e-torque module...
Jumping on this for the same reasons. Going to HF and getting a welder (along with a few other things) is on my weekend to-do list. Recently upgraded trailers, and I want to put expanded metal on the sides.
Dremel with a plastic cut wheel then exacto knife for the corners to finish it off. I was covering with the Bull Rings so I knew it didn't need to be super clean.
On 33's the 3.21 gears won't have any issues. Guys really don't see issues until moving to 37's. I have basically 35's (295/70R18's) on the 3.92's and I didn't notice any difference from 33's. Bigger sidewall and bigger tires will usually be smoother unless you're moving from P to E rated tires...
Unfortunately in the 275/70R18 you're not going to find many tires outside of the E load range. I've been extremely happy with my Cooper AT3 XLT's, but they're definitely a heavy AT tire.
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