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My Level 8 18's are a gnat's *** hair away from the calipers. Seriously though, I think there's only about 3mm of clearance. If they're not careful where they put the balancing weights they'll get ripped off.
White and bronze also isn't too bad. My friend put bronze wheels on his white Xterra...
Just need to be careful of caliper clearance. Some 18's fit, some don't. I used to hate bronze wheels, but they've grown on me and I think they work really well with a black truck. Very similar size/offset to mine of 18x9 +0.
Because I can get oil for around $25 per 5 quart jug if I wait for sales and buy bulk, and I can get filters for $10 or less at Walmart. I usually average about $45 per oil change, know exactly what goes into the truck and what comes out, and it takes me 20 minutes without having to jack the...
Dead blow hammer won't give the impact force required to knock the ball joint loose. You want a heavy metal hammer, hit the UCA not the knuckle. I usually use my 2lb and start with smaller hits ramping up to what I need. Agree with the Kroil, I use that on anything stuck.
Just make sure the shop places the weights with the caliper in mind for both front and rear wheels. My OEM wheels were fine, but my Level 8's are mm's from touching. Rotated my tires for the first time a while back and Discount Tire didn't take the calipers into account with the rear weights so...
I have tracked every fill up (different app) for my Rebel as well. I have bigger AT tires, and the truck is fairly heavy but without E-torque. In about 3850 gallons I've average 15.6mpg hand calc. Truck says about 16. If I can cruise 55-60 getting in and out of ECO on some rolling hills I can...
Agreed. That's something I never think about because I've run E rated tires for the last 15 years basically. Just something I automatically plan on having.
Maximum towing is mainly based on engine and rear differential gears. Like @Eighty said, you're almost always going to hit your payload limit on a 1500 truck before you hit towing capacity.
Per your sticker, the GVWR is 7100 and your curb weight is 7100-1422 = 5678. GCWR is 17000-5678, so max...
55k miles on my spacers, should get another 40k or so until I replace my struts at 100k and go with leveling struts or coilover setup. No sense wasting my OEM struts or trying to sell for pennies on the dollar.
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Nah. Your Band-aid example was perfect. Why get stitches for a paper cut when a Band-aid will work perfectly fine? On the flip side of that, a Band-aid won't work on a 2cm wide cut. They have separate use cases. The people that don't understand that and expect spacers to equal struts or...
Haha, don't try to tell Cheyenne anything suspension, he's the expert. Spacers don't work and will make your ball joints fail 100% of the time. Completely disregard the millions of people that use them within their use case that have zero issues.
Nobody said anything about what the OP asked for either. Spacers are just fine if you understand that they are the budget option to get a lift and don't treat them like high end components.
To answer your question @tkee, I have 2" spacers (not pre-load spacers) and Rough Country UCA's on my truck. Spacers have been on for 55k miles, and the UCA's have been on for 20k miles with mild off-roading. As long as you're not doing really aggressive off-roading, any billet aluminum spacer...
It's possible. Your thoughts on it rubbing while backing up are also possible. Someone standing outside the truck while it happens would be the best source.
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