New Body Mount Parts, no more CLUNK!!

[5thgenguy]

Probably PART of my problem was that i could just ughadugga them off my self with a long handle ratchet i have an extending handle hammer ratchet that is among my most used tools and gave me the leverage I needed.

https://a.co/d/iDkI7at

Thanks for the quick reply, picked up a 24" breaker bar and made quick work of it all. The TSB says no power tools, so that's the route I took as well. Took about an hour total from setup to take down.

 

[msnyder1112]

Well I finally found the time and did the mounts today.

Way easier than I made it out to be as I thought it through. And on the initial drive it didn’t make a single creek, grown, Pop, etc.

Old on the left, new on the right.

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Finally!! That only took ya a year. Lol

 

[Gren71]

Finally!! That only took ya a year. Lol

Yeaaaaaaaaaa its been a wild year though. Glad I finally had the time

 

[msnyder1112]

Yeaaaaaaaaaa its been a wild year though. Glad I finally had the time

I’m glad it seemed to fix it.

 

[5thgenguy]

For anyone curious about socket sizes and torque specs

18mm for the front 3 bolts (tow hook bolts, A pillar, B pillar) 80 ft lb
21mm for the C pillar mount 97 ft lb

Loose the Furthest forward bolt almost all the way and the C pillar. Should easily be able to slide the old mount out and the new mount in.

Happy Wrenchin!

 

[WarOfGears3]

I want to tackle this on my truck in the next few weeks - don't have access to a lift so will be doing this on my driveway. Do you just break loose the bolts on the side you're NOT working on, but don't back them out at all? Or is it recommended to back out the front and C pillar bolts on both sides?

Just wondering how much give the mounts will have as the A pillar mount looks like you'll need about 2-2.5" of clearance to pop out the old one and install the new one. Just don't want to put stress on the side that's NOT being worked on.

Thanks!

 

[Gren71]

I want to tackle this on my truck in the next few weeks - don't have access to a lift so will be doing this on my driveway. Do you just break loose the bolts on the side you're NOT working on, but don't back them out at all? Or is it recommended to back out the front and C pillar bolts on both sides?

Just wondering how much give the mounts will have as the A pillar mount looks like you'll need about 2-2.5" of clearance to pop out the old one and install the new one. Just don't want to put stress on the side that's NOT being worked on.

Thanks!

I didn’t loosen the bolts on the side I wasn’t working on..no idea if thats the best way. But its how I went about it. I did it in my driveway as well and used the jack along the body seem underneath of the B pillar to lift.

To be very specific I laid on my side and actually worked the handle of the jack with my leg to slowly lift the body little by little until I was able to get the a pillar mount out and put the new one in.

 

[WarOfGears3]

Excellent - thank you, in the 2019 TSB they suggest just breaking loose the bolts on the opposite side.

I was probably overthinking this but since we're slightly lifting the cab upward to remove and replace the A pillar body mount I thought it might stress the opposite side. Just didn't want to deal with any alignment issues with bolts for the A and B pillar.

I did get the B pillar replacement mounts also but does that just replace the existing bottom portion only?

 

[Gren71]

Excellent - thank you, in the 2019 TSB they suggest just breaking loose the bolts on the opposite side.

I was probably overthinking this but since we're slightly lifting the cab upward to remove and replace the A pillar body mount I thought it might stress the opposite side. Just didn't want to deal with any alignment issues with bolts for the A and B pillar.

I did get the B pillar replacement mounts also but does that just replace the existing bottom portion only?

Thats all i did. Top and bottom for A, and bottom only for B.

As a sad side note..my sound is still there. However its far less noticeable..so im moving on to suspension maxx end links at some point. Still debating if I want to just do the hellwig front sway bar at the same time or not.

 

[WarOfGears3]

Ahh crap, that's what I was also worried about also...

If you have time, disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar and try to find a stretch of road where you can see if it still happens. Maybe an incline of some sort where you can stress the cab/frame in conjunction with the suspension/mounts without the sway bar attached. You can disconnect the swaybar via the brackets then the endlink from the control arm so it comes out as one unit.

Not sure what your mileage is like but it's a known issue that the swaybar bushings go bad on these trucks also. I had disconnected mine during the summer and the noise still persisted so I'm hoping it's just the mounts for me. The swaybar bushings looked good and the endlinks didn't show any signs of binding either. I couldn't replicate the clunk on a bad road - just those instances where the frame, cabin and suspension were on some type of grade.

My truck's a stock '23 Tradesman 5.7 eTorque with 18" factory wheels with under 15K KM (up in Canada) and the clunking is annoying - genuinely surprised it was not caught earlier by the engineers when they were working on the DT chassis trucks.

The swaybar too looks like it had some revisions over the years with a C suffix for the part. Not even sure what our '23 trucks are using but it looks like RAM is aware and quietly making part revisions...

https://store.mopar.ca/v-2023-ram-1500--tradesman--5-7l-v8-electric-gas/front-suspension--front-stabilizer-bar

Good luck again!