Thanks for the quick reply, picked up a 24" breaker bar and made quick work of it all. The TSB says no power tools, so that's the route I took as well. Took about an hour total from setup to take down.Probably PART of my problem was that i could just ughadugga them off my self with a long handle ratcheti have an extending handle hammer ratchet that is among my most used tools and gave me the leverage I needed.
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New Body Mount Parts, no more CLUNK!!
- Thread starter firemedic10584
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- body mount clunk
msnyder1112
Ram Guru
Finally!! That only took ya a year. Lol
Yeaaaaaaaaaa its been a wild year though. Glad I finally had the time
msnyder1112
Ram Guru
I’m glad it seemed to fix it.Yeaaaaaaaaaa its been a wild year though. Glad I finally had the time
For anyone curious about socket sizes and torque specs
18mm for the front 3 bolts (tow hook bolts, A pillar, B pillar) 80 ft lb
21mm for the C pillar mount 97 ft lb
Loose the Furthest forward bolt almost all the way and the C pillar. Should easily be able to slide the old mount out and the new mount in.
Happy Wrenchin!
18mm for the front 3 bolts (tow hook bolts, A pillar, B pillar) 80 ft lb
21mm for the C pillar mount 97 ft lb
Loose the Furthest forward bolt almost all the way and the C pillar. Should easily be able to slide the old mount out and the new mount in.
Happy Wrenchin!
WarOfGears3
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I want to tackle this on my truck in the next few weeks - don't have access to a lift so will be doing this on my driveway. Do you just break loose the bolts on the side you're NOT working on, but don't back them out at all? Or is it recommended to back out the front and C pillar bolts on both sides?
Just wondering how much give the mounts will have as the A pillar mount looks like you'll need about 2-2.5" of clearance to pop out the old one and install the new one. Just don't want to put stress on the side that's NOT being worked on.
Thanks!
Just wondering how much give the mounts will have as the A pillar mount looks like you'll need about 2-2.5" of clearance to pop out the old one and install the new one. Just don't want to put stress on the side that's NOT being worked on.
Thanks!
I didn’t loosen the bolts on the side I wasn’t working on..no idea if thats the best way. But its how I went about it. I did it in my driveway as well and used the jack along the body seem underneath of the B pillar to lift.
To be very specific I laid on my side and actually worked the handle of the jack with my leg to slowly lift the body little by little until I was able to get the a pillar mount out and put the new one in.
WarOfGears3
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Excellent - thank you, in the 2019 TSB they suggest just breaking loose the bolts on the opposite side.
I was probably overthinking this but since we're slightly lifting the cab upward to remove and replace the A pillar body mount I thought it might stress the opposite side. Just didn't want to deal with any alignment issues with bolts for the A and B pillar.
I did get the B pillar replacement mounts also but does that just replace the existing bottom portion only?
I was probably overthinking this but since we're slightly lifting the cab upward to remove and replace the A pillar body mount I thought it might stress the opposite side. Just didn't want to deal with any alignment issues with bolts for the A and B pillar.
I did get the B pillar replacement mounts also but does that just replace the existing bottom portion only?
Thats all i did. Top and bottom for A, and bottom only for B.
As a sad side note..my sound is still there. However its far less noticeable..so im moving on to suspension maxx end links at some point. Still debating if I want to just do the hellwig front sway bar at the same time or not.
WarOfGears3
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Ahh crap, that's what I was also worried about also...
If you have time, disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar and try to find a stretch of road where you can see if it still happens. Maybe an incline of some sort where you can stress the cab/frame in conjunction with the suspension/mounts without the sway bar attached. You can disconnect the swaybar via the brackets then the endlink from the control arm so it comes out as one unit.
Not sure what your mileage is like but it's a known issue that the swaybar bushings go bad on these trucks also. I had disconnected mine during the summer and the noise still persisted so I'm hoping it's just the mounts for me. The swaybar bushings looked good and the endlinks didn't show any signs of binding either. I couldn't replicate the clunk on a bad road - just those instances where the frame, cabin and suspension were on some type of grade.
My truck's a stock '23 Tradesman 5.7 eTorque with 18" factory wheels with under 15K KM (up in Canada) and the clunking is annoying - genuinely surprised it was not caught earlier by the engineers when they were working on the DT chassis trucks.
The swaybar too looks like it had some revisions over the years with a C suffix for the part. Not even sure what our '23 trucks are using but it looks like RAM is aware and quietly making part revisions...
Good luck again!
If you have time, disconnect and/or remove the front sway bar and try to find a stretch of road where you can see if it still happens. Maybe an incline of some sort where you can stress the cab/frame in conjunction with the suspension/mounts without the sway bar attached. You can disconnect the swaybar via the brackets then the endlink from the control arm so it comes out as one unit.
Not sure what your mileage is like but it's a known issue that the swaybar bushings go bad on these trucks also. I had disconnected mine during the summer and the noise still persisted so I'm hoping it's just the mounts for me. The swaybar bushings looked good and the endlinks didn't show any signs of binding either. I couldn't replicate the clunk on a bad road - just those instances where the frame, cabin and suspension were on some type of grade.
My truck's a stock '23 Tradesman 5.7 eTorque with 18" factory wheels with under 15K KM (up in Canada) and the clunking is annoying - genuinely surprised it was not caught earlier by the engineers when they were working on the DT chassis trucks.
The swaybar too looks like it had some revisions over the years with a C suffix for the part. Not even sure what our '23 trucks are using but it looks like RAM is aware and quietly making part revisions...
Good luck again!
msnyder1112
Ram Guru
Damn dude!
Do the sway bar too. Screw it.
Seriously, have you checked your intermediate shafts play? Mine wiggled a lot. Once the drivers side shaft was replaced, most of my clunks were gone. Just that annoying one when slamming on the brakes, or mashing the go pedal. Then all I did was tighten up the loose jack under the passenger seat.
Had the similar sounds after installing the new cab mounts but the truck felt wayyyyyy better in all other aspects. Figured sway bar bushing was the next cheap option mine seem totally fine and like I wouldn't need to replace them. I replaced them anyways and my clunks are now all gone and the truck feels like it was new again. Try it out for a cheap option, if it doesnt work you still got brand new bushing and for almost no effort.
Keep in mind I have also replaced my lower control arms which had enough play after like 60000km to not even be able to align properly.
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Had a 2” leveling kit installed on my ram1500 2022 Laramie night edition with 33” Toyo open country A/T on the 22” stock rims, replaced the sway bar links, cuz the shop said that was causing the weird knocking bumping noise that only seems to come from the right front passenger side. Drove home seemed fine,after 10 miles and few speed bumps and turns the bumping noise is back…. Is anyone else experiencing this? If so has anyone have been able to fix it or got a solution to it ? Thanks
Funny enough… I found the front sway bar on eBay from someone who was accepting offers and I was able to buy it for $70 less than the Hellwig website and the free shippingDamn dude!
Do the sway bar too. Screw it.
Seriously, have you checked your intermediate shafts play? Mine wiggled a lot. Once the drivers side shaft was replaced, most of my clunks were gone. Just that annoying one when slamming on the brakes, or mashing the go pedal. Then all I did was tighten up the loose jack under the passenger seat.
So now I wait for the front sway bar to come in and I’ll do it and the suspension max and links at the same time
I’ve never messed with intermediate shafts so I don’t really know what to look for or how to go about diagnosing that. I’ll give it a Google but if you have a link to a video that could point me in the right direction I would certainly appreciate it
Edit:
Well here is the video I found showing how to remove and install them… This looks deceptively easy and it honestly seems like the hardest part is just making sure the blinds are lined up before tapping the intermediate and shaft in. I’ve replaced my front struts so I’m familiar with taking apart the front end
Now to try and find a video on diagnosing problems with it before just ripping the truck apart for funsies
And im wondering if its okay/worth it to just replace the intermediate shaft. Theyre not all too expensive.
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The bushings were the first thing that I tried replacing saddly and even after getting new ones on the clunk persists like a pimple that just won’t go away
WarOfGears3
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What's your mileage? Start with the TRX cabin mounts in this thread and if your mileage is >40000 KM try the sway bar bushings next.
Its the passenger side intermediate shaft that is the hard one, the drivers side will be fairly easy! I would replace the CV axle at the same time so the splines wear evenly
So i took the truck back to the shop after doing a lot of research and i asked to check the sway bar bushings or the struts ….. so happens to be a bad strut got replace with a new one and sound gone
Good to know! I hope thats not my issue since i replaced my oem struts with billstein 5100s. A new one would be an expensive fix
