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Exhaust Manifold Options

What's in the blue circle?
Nothing, there is a hole in the manifold and the gasket but not in the head so just a "stain" for the lack of better word.
PHO00097.JPG
edit: I really like the display quality on my 3 camera depstech 520 but the still shots are pretty poor.
 
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Easy broken stud extraction. Rent a mig welder (120v) from Home Depot and weld a nut to the broken stud and spin right out. Did both exhaust manifolds on my 2011 Hemi Ram with broken rear studs, common problem.
I have an 250 amp ESAB, no matter what, still a pain in the butt.
 
I was given a date for the repair that was requested prior to warranty expired. RAM dealerships sucks DICKS.
Take a look at this. Has anyone tried to seal it with JB weld. this isnt a warp or a small crack. i technically have two headers as it split in halve.
 

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I was given a date for the repair that was requested prior to warranty expired. RAM dealerships sucks DICKS.
Take a look at this. Has anyone tried to seal it with JB weld. this isnt a warp or a small crack. i technically have two headers as it split in halve.
Can't blame the dealer if the parts aren't available.
 
Just dropped fluffy at the dealer. 34k, right side leak. (Didn’t look not sure how bad - stud or crack). This thread started mid/late 2023 and an early post says that dealers are limited to 4 a month (one every 7 days). Service writer confirmed this and then stated they have a SIX (6) page list! If each page only has 30 lines that 6 x 30 x 7 = 1260 days! 3.5 YEARS.
 
Has anyone installed the BD manifolds on only one side without upgrading the other? I confirmed my passenger side is cracked on my 2020 with 64K miles tonight. The driver’s side is fine. Have our first baby coming in the next three weeks and not looking to spend more than necessary if I can avoid it. At the same time if the BD replacements are better I would rather buy for the one side and hopefully not have to replace the passenger side again. Otherwise I will be scrounging for an OEM replacement online, unless the allocation/supply chain issues have been resolved.IMG_1878.jpeg
 
I would buy the pair and just replace the problematic side and wait and replace the other when the time comes.. I say when because the other side will eventually crack and have the same fate. I will also check the opposite side to make sure it isn’t also cracked during the installation.


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Honestly, do both and call it a day since the other will most likely happen and you already spent the money, plus possible less chance of breaking bolts in the process.
 
You might be surprised once you do one side check the other it might be cracked as well.


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You might be surprised once you do one side check the other it might be cracked as well.


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I did take the heat shield off the drivers side and verified no cracks. Bolts all appear to be fine as well. Aside from the observed crack on the passenger side, on a cold start you can clearly hear the hissing/ticking from the passenger side. Put my ear in the driver’s side wheel well and nothing. After 10 seconds or so you can also start to smell exhaust fumes on the passenger side as well.

I guess in short, aside from visually confirming the crack on the passenger side vs no crack on the driver’s side, the other signs of a leaky manifold are not present on the driver’s side (yet).

I am leaning towards just replacing the passenger side with the BD manifold for now and hold off on replacing the driver’s side until there’s a problem.

What I’m not sure about is whether there is a difference in performance between the BD and OEM manifolds? I can’t find any evidence that there is a difference, but wondering if anyone can confirm that this could be done without causing issues.
 
No performance difference yes you can just do one side and save the other for when the time comes.

Thats how I figured out mines was cracked.. fumes in the inside. Removed passenger heat shield and bam… luckily I already had the BD headers sitting on the shelf months prior figuring I was gonna eventually get the typically manifold crack and wanna risk them being out of stock or backordered when the time came. I was fortunate when it came to the driver side for the hell of it I removed the heat shield and bam also cracked so the was the next days adventure.

I will suggest this might have been just an issue with my pair but I received two different brand of replacement bolts.. both grade 8.8 both identical other than the markings. I snapped two of the same brand. First one I initially set the torque wrench to 10 ft lbs for a first pass and snapped the bolt in the head. Thought maybe my torque wrench was screwed up swapped to another one and even cleaned the threads.. snapped that bolt as well. Dorman sells replacement bolts locally in the same size but grade 10 yellow zinc as a pair but you can order replacement through Fastenal for cheap if you can wait a few days. Had I know what I know now I would of went ahead and just ordered the grade 10 yellow zinc bolts and used those all the way around a much stronger bolt and you won’t risk breaking one torquing them down (at least you shouldn’t at 18 ft lbs) just my $.2


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