What did you do to your Ram today???

[boogielander]

View attachment 201512
I bought these a while back. I doubt Ill keep them. I just bought them to upset my best friend and it will
If you want to see more I can take a few more pictures

lol i guess im your best friend now

 

[HSKR R/T]

Thanks. I was not aware of that. Eons ago (1991), I had a Ford Ranger on which I used a pressure washer under the hood, which caused me a massive headache. For the past 30 years, I've been afraid to do it again. I've been using a steam cleaner for the past 10 years or so, and it works reasonably well, with a little wiping up in some areas.

Just don't sprays directly onto the fuse box or electrical connectors with the direct stream and you are fine. You have to realize, when driving in the rain, everything under the hood gets wet, so they have to build them to be able to handle that.

 

[TNRamGuy]

Just don't sprays directly onto the fuse box or electrical connectors with the direct stream and you are fine. You have to realize, when driving in the rain, everything under the hood gets wet, so they have to build them to be able to handle that.

Agreed, been doing it for 25 years with 10 different vehicles. Never had any issues. I don't spray the battery or fuse blocks.

 

[TNRamGuy]

You in West Knoxville? I'm NOT a stalker but that's what a stalker would also say...

Yeah, Loudon actually

 

[Didz]

Opened up all the door panels and installed sound proofing on all the door cards and changed my passenger side door handle (passive entry) still not working though. Didn't think it would either, dealer tells me they need to program it, I'm going to take a look at the AlfaOBD I have and see if there is anything for it on there. Otherwise I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pay the dealer $200 to do the programming. They wanted to pay 186 Bahraini dinars ($494) for the door handle and wait 3 months to get it among other parts, I ordered everything myself at a fraction of what the dealer wanted to charge me.

It's only 5pm and the sun is still out so I'm going to give the interior a once over since I'm out here.

As for my drivers side mirror, friend of mine found me a full mirror in Kuwait for $100 from a rear end wreck.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Agreed, been doing it for 25 years with 10 different vehicles. Never had any issues. I don't spray the battery or fuse blocks.

Did you have a tornado warning this morning?
I'll 3rd the washing of the engine compartment. When I was 16 working at a detail shop all engines were washed it didn't matter.
The only car I ever had trouble with was RX-7s. It was just water in spark plugs wells and easy fix

lol i guess im your best friend now

They are a little much and probably not legal. I do like the grill without the lights.
The look will be priceless when I pull in his driveway. It'll be recorded

 

[Gren71]

Installed core 4x4 2in rear sway bar end links.

Also replaced my messed up drivers side from sway bar end link. Ive had the clunk for a while and was trying to ignore it. Didnt last. While i was under there though i did find out the newer end link i got uses a 19mm nut on the bottom instead of an 18. hopefully this helps the clunk.

I also noticed that the retention bolt on my rotor was hand loose..enough the rotor moved while putting the wheel back on. Wonder if maybe that was also part of my clunk…though i suspect not since i assume it all sits tight when the wheel is on.



Last week i recentered my my rear axle, very easy and definitely helped the truck drive normal again…the added height of the tow springs had it shifted to the passenger side with the stock track bar

https://a.co/d/0q0ZfCQ

Heres what I used. No greasing required and it will work for road duty and trailer pulling.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Installed core 4x4 2in rear sway bar end links.

Also replaced my messed up drivers side from sway bar end link. Ive had the clunk for a while and was trying to ignore it. Didnt last. While i was under there though i did find out the newer end link i got uses a 19mm nut on the bottom instead of an 18. hopefully this helps the clunk.

I also noticed that the retention bolt on my rotor was hand loose..enough the rotor moved while putting the wheel back on. Wonder if maybe that was also part of my clunk…though i suspect not since i assume it all sits tight when the wheel is on.

View attachment 201630

Last week i recentered my my rear axle, very easy and definitely helped the truck drive normal again…the added height of the tow springs had it shifted to the passenger side with the stock track bar

https://a.co/d/0q0ZfCQ

Heres what I used. No greasing required and it will work for road duty and trailer pulling.

That bolt/screw on the rotors is only for assembly at the factory to keep the rotors from falling off as it moves down the line to where calipers are installed. I would have just remkved it completely before it gets rusted in and has to be drilled out when you need to change rotors.

 

[Wild Bill]

I'm a little embarrassed to post this after reading all the repairs you DIY'ers are doing...
Gave her the full spa treatment and now she is demanding premium gas...

 

[CeramicGrey]

Installed marker lights and ditch lights.

 

[John Kloehr]

... now she is demanding premium gas...

Give her a tank of 89 and tell her to like it. Then go back to 87. I am half way through my experiment evaluating fuel economy comparing 87 and 89, right now it looks like the additional mileage from 89 is not worth the extra cost. There is an improvement, just not enough. Mine is a Rebel so the gearing means I can not use any additional power.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Installed marker lights and ditch lights.

What marker lights did you use?

 

[mtvlac1971]

What did I do to my Ram today? Wished I had it back from the dealer. Currently held hostage awaiting a new instrument cluster.

I bought mine needing the instrument cluster... it was xmas when it came in and was installed... Love my Forged Blue 2025 Bighorn Hurricane SO...huge upgrade from my 2022 Delmonico Bighorn.

 

[BowDown]

Took the driveshaft out and greased it up again; the notorious bump when stopping came back after about 40k miles since last time. 30 minutes in and out, done.

Grease pretty much worn away and the rear of the shaft looked dry



I did notice some wear marks that weren't there previously, I applied extra grease towards the rear of the shaft


Ready to go back in




New dust boot clamp and done

 

[BowDown]

I had noticed some rough shifting also. Looks like the drive shaft was binding up and causing that as well because that's now gone which tells me that it wasn't the transmission shifting rough but the drive shaft binding up and then suddenly releasing tension

 

[A-TEAM]

My westin pro mod front end has taken a beating over the last 4 years and some rust starting to show up so I wire wheeled and sanded it down a bit and gave it a fresh coat of rustoleum satin black. I wanyed to blackout the screws and fog logos too so i taped it all off and went at it. Eventually im going to pull it and have it blasted and powdercoated but this should buy me a year or two! Time 1 hour with prep, cost $6.

 

[ryandm1984]

Pulled the trigger on som Katzkin leather seats to replace my factory cloth. I traded my 2019 Laramie for a newer big horn night edition in red. This is a pic from when I picked it up from the upholstery shop. My daughter obviously had to get her attention fill in it. The last few days it’s baked in the sun and all the creases and loose sections are completely tight now, which the shop told me it would. Very happy with the way they turned out! $2200 which included install for my set up. It’s less if you opt for the standard inserts. I went with diamond inserts and retained the factory heated seats. It’s an additional $750 per seat (as of now) if you want the AC option but disables your factory controls.

If anyone else is curious or thinking about going this route, I’d recommend calling a nearby authorized Katzkin installer before ordering from Katzkin if you have one near you. The shop told me they have samples of all options. Also, if I’d ordered thru them, the price would’ve been less and all warranty claims would be done thru them as well, vs dealing with Katzkin customer care. Which isn’t bad but local would be easier. Overall, very simple process when ordering direct from Katzkin and would definitely recommend!

 

[Insanity]

My larger crotch goblin dose the same when I try to take a picture.

 

[Gren71]

Still had a gnarly clunk even after replacing the front driver side, sway bar, and link. So I got underneath and pulled the 1/2 inch rear spacers I had previously installed. 90% of the sound is gone.… It was 100% gone until I went through a car wash to get the undercarriage good and wet…and the front and clunk returned ever so slightly. I’m going to double check the sway bar end link torque specs and make sure the rear axle is centered after removing the 1/2 inch in the rear tomorrow in the daylight. But man… Chasing this damn clunk is just as frustrating for me as it has been for basically everyone else that has gone down this bumpy path.


You can see a little on the spacer, but the spring was definitely shifting a little bit, causing the wire marks right where the end of the spring made contact with the spacer.

 

[Dogpatch]

Huh, I foam cannon a pressure rinse mine.

I use some engine cleaner and pressure washer. As @Montana_ says, I’ve pretty much given up on regular cleaning. Mine gets done with the spring detailing.