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What did you do to your Ram today???

Well this seems to be the theme here recently... Got the tires rotated, changed the oil, deep cleaned and clay barred the glass and I'm happy to report the new transmission is a night and day difference. No more slipping, even when it's cold. Eventually I'll use some iron & fallout remover on the paint, especially on the stock fender flares to remove all the crap still stuck on there from winter. For now though, it's mostly clean and the interior is detailed and the windows are nice and shiny.

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20250413_124959.jpg

Next plan of action is the diffs and t-case fluid. I'd like to go with Amsoil for that but I'm not sure what I need so I'll start checking all that out. I did notice when I got under there for the oil today and checking the transmission out for leaks (I assume it came with the pan already installed), that there was a drop forming on the seal from the t-case to the driveshaft. So I sprayed some brakleen and will monitor it over the next week. Trying to get all this stuff taken care of under the warranty as soon as possible before I pull the trigger on the extended, which should be early next year.
 
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Today-
Out with the old (Carli Rebel HD)
1744510136643.png
In with the new (Clayton 2.5" HD Triple Rate) - 30 minutes job:
1744510164217.png
1744510177667.png
1744510192404.png
Don't mind the surface rust... that's what happens when averaging 60+ on wet Dempster and Dalton and then a full day at Bonneville on the same trip can do. Nothing concerning just surface rust that doesn't look good but oh wells, it's a truck built to perform not to be hard parked at the mall to attract more guys.

The result:
1744510351467.png
40" fender to ground all around (measured on level ground) an 1.5" improvement in the front and an 1" improvement in the rear.
Ride quality test on Monday.

I will say though, these should ride more firmer than Carli and shouldn't settle any more than it already is, judging by how much more strength it required 2 people to get them in without unbolting the rear arms (only the lower shock mount and sway bar were unbolted) Carli HD are already a PITA to get in and get out, these are even worse.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with Carli HD rears. The ride quality WAS GREAT and it provided A LOT OF DROOP. Even though they arrived on Monday, I was on the fence about swapping the Carli's out all week even until this morning. What finally pushed me over was seeing that 1" difference between front and rear, and knowing that the 800s lb of constant weight will not go anywhere. I mean, I could probably just remove all the stuff I brought to Alaska and Arctic Ocean from August and September, but I'm too lazy to do that everytime I go out to play.
So far, I am quite happy with the additional $700s in springs (of course, I didn't pay that much) despite the headache I had with the front.

Oh and I put the sidewall tumor spare back on:
1744510827627.png
Since I am still trying to figure out what to do with the tires situation (40k miles already with like 90% tread left still) but have a 3 days trip to DV next week. I don't think I'll ever need spare (well, F rated 12 ply tires...) but i like to be prepared lol. a bulged sidewall spare is still better than no spare, i suppose.
 
Today-
Out with the old (Carli Rebel HD)
View attachment 199541
In with the new (Clayton 2.5" HD Triple Rate) - 30 minutes job:
View attachment 199542
View attachment 199543
View attachment 199544
Don't mind the surface rust... that's what happens when averaging 60+ on wet Dempster and Dalton and then a full day at Bonneville on the same trip can do. Nothing concerning just surface rust that doesn't look good but oh wells, it's a truck built to perform not to be hard parked at the mall to attract more guys.

The result:
View attachment 199545
40" fender to ground all around (measured on level ground) an 1.5" improvement in the front and an 1" improvement in the rear.
Ride quality test on Monday.

I will say though, these should ride more firmer than Carli and shouldn't settle any more than it already is, judging by how much more strength it required 2 people to get them in without unbolting the rear arms (only the lower shock mount and sway bar were unbolted) Carli HD are already a PITA to get in and get out, these are even worse.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with Carli HD rears. The ride quality WAS GREAT and it provided A LOT OF DROOP. Even though they arrived on Monday, I was on the fence about swapping the Carli's out all week even until this morning. What finally pushed me over was seeing that 1" difference between front and rear, and knowing that the 800s lb of constant weight will not go anywhere. I mean, I could probably just remove all the stuff I brought to Alaska and Arctic Ocean from August and September, but I'm too lazy to do that everytime I go out to play.
So far, I am quite happy with the additional $700s in springs (of course, I didn't pay that much) despite the headache I had with the front.

Oh and I put the sidewall tumor spare back on:
View attachment 199546
Since I am still trying to figure out what to do with the tires situation (40k miles already with like 90% tread left still) but have a 3 days trip to DV next week. I don't think I'll ever need spare (well, F rated 12 ply tires...) but i like to be prepared lol. a bulged sidewall spare is still better than no spare, i suppose.
What do you think of the Falcons? (Granted those are replaced with the AT4W). Have to replace my STT Pros with something 12 ply with an HD sidewall. They were good tires, and incredible in mud but as most M/T tires, wore relatively quickly and got loud on road. Most of my off-roading is Utah (slick S Utah mud) and alone which is why I opted for a more aggressive tire.
 
what would you recommend?
I still have my tophats in but I've already been forced to change one control arm.

Shocks and springs seem to be a better bet.

The more learned among here will chime in with specifics.

ALERT! - Boogielander rolls deep so he is gonna tell you to use gold-plated stuff. Follow his advice if your pocket isn't nervous.
 
What do you think of the Falcons? (Granted those are replaced with the AT4W). Have to replace my STT Pros with something 12 ply with an HD sidewall. They were good tires, and incredible in mud but as most M/T tires, wore relatively quickly and got loud on road. Most of my off-roading is Utah (slick S Utah mud) and alone which is why I opted for a more aggressive tire.
Falcons? or Falkens? lol
the AT3w are good. 40k miles on them and the treads are still near new. I got sidewall bulge because I was doing freeway speed across some rough desert terrain and did not see the giant rocks hiding in the shadow. If I slowed down i'd be fine.

For slick s utah mud, perhaps go with Toyo RT Pro. it's a new release of hybrid MT tires, mirroring the RT Trail (AT hybrid) that we love at our shop.
 
what would you recommend?
Bilstein 5100s if your pocket is not deep.
Bilstein 5100 all around with UCA.
or Ironman 4x4 FCP all around with UCA.

if you're on pavement only then Carli Commuter PACKAGE. Comes with EVERYTHING you need and no more. Saves you all the head scratching.

If you go hard off pavement then King or Fox 2.5.
But for the price of those, you might as well get Carli Performance Pack which comes with everything you need and no more.
Or, if you want more custom valving that tailors to 20% of the people who are very specific about their shock tuning and performance, Thuren Kings and Thuren arms and springs.

Bilstein 5100 is the very bare minimum.
No Icon, No RC, No Falcon, nothing else.
Avoid pucks like a plague.
I still have my tophats in but I've already been forced to change one control arm.

Shocks and springs seem to be a better bet.

The more learned among here will chime in with specifics.

ALERT! - Boogielander rolls deep so he is gonna tell you to use gold-plated stuff. Follow his advice if your pocket isn't nervous.
lol i only tell people to use gold plated stuff if they can afford it or use it.
ironman and bilstein are nowhere near gold plated lolll
 

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