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What did you do to your Ram today???

1BADRAMLIMITED

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Winter prep with acf50 and stock wheels.
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DAM man your truck looks like it just drove off the showroom floor! how do you get you wheel-well liners to shine like that :ROFLMAO:
 

BowDown

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DAM man your truck looks like it just drove off the showroom floor! how do you get you wheel-well liners to shine like that :ROFLMAO:

I was going to ask the same thing because the undercarriage looks so clean but I saw his comment about applying acf50 which is an anti corrosion lubricant
 

1BADRAMLIMITED

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I was going to ask the same thing because the undercarriage looks so clean but I saw his comment about applying acf50 which is an anti corrosion lubricant
oh i see i thought it was like a coating or wax i know hes good about keeping his rig top notch. in oklahoma we dont really get bad winters but i wonder if it would help woth all the rain we see here
 

boogielander

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Last week the night I returned from MT:
drilled into the bed side and added stabilizing mounts for the GFC.
Through our testing on other two GFCs we have/ had in our Boogielanding group, we found out that although GFC mounts keep the camper secure to the bed, they don't do a good job preventing the camper from shifting forward when the rear end bucks around while boogieing. With these brackets/ tabs, the forward motion/ momentum created while boogieing are stopped and the camper stays in place.
1699761812338.png

Today:
I left for MT with about 1k mile left before my 5k oil change interval, so I knew this batch of oil would go for about 6K miles instead. We don't do oil change, fluid change, or major repair work before big trip just in case something fails or leaks, unless the repair work is required to return the vehicle back to proper working order. So I figured, screw it, I'll do maintenance work after I come back.
1699762502451.png
Fumoto valve is such a game changer. This is actually the first time I use it on my truck. No more messy oil drains!
Initially I thought I could do the oil change without removing my RCI skid. After I lifted the truck up and looked at it I realized my fat hand and fingers would make it an impossible task, so I removed the skid. I simply unbolted the 3 bolts in the rear and loosen the front two bolts and the whole thing slides out. Skid plate came off and back on in 30 seconds.
So if you're on the fence about the skid and worry about oil change, just know that it's not that difficult to remove the skid plate and go ahead and order them. RCI is doing Black Friday Sale RIGHT NOW for up to 25% off skid plates.
1699762722999.png
I also used the OilUdder thing to change the filter. It took some practice to get it in (hehehe ;) ) but once it's in it works wonders. (hahaha;))
First time ever with no mess oil change. I left the oiludder at the shop to make my life a lot more easier in the future.
While the truck was up in the air I also rotated the tires. It's been about 10k miles or so since these tires went on so... Since I have matching spare but spare has no TPMS and I'm planning to keep running AT3Ws for the next set, I only did 4 tires rotation instead of 5 like I usually do.

Then, owner of the shop next door saw me working alone and thought I was taking side jobs (which my friend/ boss is totally ok with) so we started chatting. Dude was impressed with the GFC when he was shaking on it.
1699763266013.png
Anyways, it was time for wiring inside the GFC. I started by disassembling the switch box I made for when I had the bed rack.
1699763140855.png
Made a plate for the fuse boxes and stuff. This is a temporary solution since I'm waiting on a few parts to come in and designing new plates and mount. That's why the bolts are way too long and I stacked washers and split washers lol (yes, my dumbass forgot to order bolts)
1699763476237.png
And the BlueSea System stuff are bolted in. Those will be exposed instead of inside a box since the GFC is technically a box that keeps water out, so no need for me to do another box.

Not pictured: cooking lights installed and hooked up, BD chase lights installed and cables extended.
I'm really not a big fan of these short sunlight days... it got dark at like 5PM and I had so much more to do! Guess I'll continue tomorrow.

Possible direction for future:
1. Since I have a MOLLE panel on order and I have no idea when that's coming in, the fuses may or may not be going to the MOLLE panel at the bulkhead. Pro: keeps everything clean and restore my bed rail for tiedown duty. Con: I have to redo all the wiring, which is not really a problem for me because that'd be just another day in the office.
2. Swap out the current mount with a custom plate to hide all the wires and call it a day. Pro: keeps everything simple. Con: Render part of the bedrail useless, but that's not 100% a problem because the usable space of the bed rail on the other side is shortened due to propane mount.

We'll see when we get there I guess.
 

Dogpatch

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I luv my Limited and treat it with good maintenance and cleaning practices.
However, I just simply don’t have the time or even the notion to be as anal as some of you in the depth of wheel well or underside cleaning. I limit that to an undercarriage wash when I go through the touchless car wash every few days.
Good on ya if you take it further than that! 😎
 
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1BADRAMLIMITED

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I don't think my truck was that clean when it rolled off the line. 🫤
Agreed I bought my truck used and when I got it the dealership did a half A$$ job detailing it. The following day I worked on it for 6-8 hrs and had it looking show floor ready! I try to keep it that way but work gets in the way with that plan time to time. @ferraiolo1 props to you man! I just bought some of that stuff you shared.
 

boogielander

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Today I finished some more wiring but not done yet since I started at 2PM and it got dark at 5PM.
1699845465789.png
BD chase lights went back on.
1699845499314.png
Tent lights went in. These are actually bed lights that I bought last year that I never used. I thought these were the red ones but turned out to be white. I wanted red to preserve my vision in the dark so I now either gotta take these off and use them elsewhere or add red.

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Look from outside with light on. Now when i'm changing inside it's visible lol
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With cooking lights on
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Using el cheapo chinese switches. One day I'll replace that with a switch pro when I find a deal. But for now it works

1699845726219.png
Propane tank also went back in.

Next weekend will be installing red strips around the inside of GFC on the lower floor and add/ change to red on the top. I also have a set of footwell lights with module that I got for free that I never used and I'll probably add that to the wings so I have dancing RGB lights.
Hopefully next week I will also find time to make a new plate with metal for the switches, fuse blocks, etc and add a 12v socket there.
 

JamRam

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Do any of these conditions apply? If so, remote start won't work.

View attachment 170646
So it seems by battery might very well had been the culprit.

Went out to find a dead truck this morning even though last night only went down to -2. Had to call on a neighbor for a boost as both of my battery packs were dead (highlighting one part of my winter prep that was overlooked). SO....I guess I'm shopping for a new battery.

Anyone ever had any luck getting a battery changed under warranty at 48K Km?:cry:
 

ferraiolo1

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Agreed I bought my truck used and when I got it the dealership did a half A$$ job detailing it. The following day I worked on it for 6-8 hrs and had it looking show floor ready! I try to keep it that way but work gets in the way with that plan time to time. @ferraiolo1 props to you man! I just bought some of that stuff you shared.

A little goes a LONG way. It’s an oil that “creeps” so I’ll usually spray it up under my bed and then it creeps down if you’re talking about acf50.


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Adjutant

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Last week the night I returned from MT:
drilled into the bed side and added stabilizing mounts for the GFC.
Through our testing on other two GFCs we have/ had in our Boogielanding group, we found out that although GFC mounts keep the camper secure to the bed, they don't do a good job preventing the camper from shifting forward when the rear end bucks around while boogieing. With these brackets/ tabs, the forward motion/ momentum created while boogieing are stopped and the camper stays in place.
View attachment 170887

Today:
I left for MT with about 1k mile left before my 5k oil change interval, so I knew this batch of oil would go for about 6K miles instead. We don't do oil change, fluid change, or major repair work before big trip just in case something fails or leaks, unless the repair work is required to return the vehicle back to proper working order. So I figured, screw it, I'll do maintenance work after I come back.
View attachment 170888
Fumoto valve is such a game changer. This is actually the first time I use it on my truck. No more messy oil drains!
Initially I thought I could do the oil change without removing my RCI skid. After I lifted the truck up and looked at it I realized my fat hand and fingers would make it an impossible task, so I removed the skid. I simply unbolted the 3 bolts in the rear and loosen the front two bolts and the whole thing slides out. Skid plate came off and back on in 30 seconds.
So if you're on the fence about the skid and worry about oil change, just know that it's not that difficult to remove the skid plate and go ahead and order them. RCI is doing Black Friday Sale RIGHT NOW for up to 25% off skid plates.
View attachment 170889
I also used the OilUdder thing to change the filter. It took some practice to get it in (hehehe ;) ) but once it's in it works wonders. (hahaha;))
First time ever with no mess oil change. I left the oiludder at the shop to make my life a lot more easier in the future.
While the truck was up in the air I also rotated the tires. It's been about 10k miles or so since these tires went on so... Since I have matching spare but spare has no TPMS and I'm planning to keep running AT3Ws for the next set, I only did 4 tires rotation instead of 5 like I usually do.

Then, owner of the shop next door saw me working alone and thought I was taking side jobs (which my friend/ boss is totally ok with) so we started chatting. Dude was impressed with the GFC when he was shaking on it.
View attachment 170891
Anyways, it was time for wiring inside the GFC. I started by disassembling the switch box I made for when I had the bed rack.
View attachment 170890
Made a plate for the fuse boxes and stuff. This is a temporary solution since I'm waiting on a few parts to come in and designing new plates and mount. That's why the bolts are way too long and I stacked washers and split washers lol (yes, my dumbass forgot to order bolts)
View attachment 170893
And the BlueSea System stuff are bolted in. Those will be exposed instead of inside a box since the GFC is technically a box that keeps water out, so no need for me to do another box.

Not pictured: cooking lights installed and hooked up, BD chase lights installed and cables extended.
I'm really not a big fan of these short sunlight days... it got dark at like 5PM and I had so much more to do! Guess I'll continue tomorrow.

Possible direction for future:
1. Since I have a MOLLE panel on order and I have no idea when that's coming in, the fuses may or may not be going to the MOLLE panel at the bulkhead. Pro: keeps everything clean and restore my bed rail for tiedown duty. Con: I have to redo all the wiring, which is not really a problem for me because that'd be just another day in the office.
2. Swap out the current mount with a custom plate to hide all the wires and call it a day. Pro: keeps everything simple. Con: Render part of the bedrail useless, but that's not 100% a problem because the usable space of the bed rail on the other side is shortened due to propane mount.

We'll see when we get there I guess.
What wheels are you running? I love the look. Especially the bronze.
Im not doing crazy overlanding, so Im probably going to opt for simulated bead lock rims
 

HSKR R/T

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So it seems by battery might very well had been the culprit.

Went out to find a dead truck this morning even though last night only went down to -2. Had to call on a neighbor for a boost as both of my battery packs were dead (highlighting one part of my winter prep that was overlooked). SO....I guess I'm shopping for a new battery.

Anyone ever had any luck getting a battery changed under warranty at 48K Km?:cry:
Batteries usually have a timeframe warranty not mileage warranty. That being said, you'd be better off just spending the money for a good AGM battery. RockAuto has some decent deals. I was just looking at them yesterday.

A/C Delco Gold high reserve for $182 with 900CCA, and 170amp reserve
 

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