2” or 2.5” level. Please help me decide!

[theblet]

Non ORP bighorn 4x4. Will be ordering my motofab top hat spacers soon. I can’t decide between 2” and 2.5”. I’ve read the many many threads here. My measurements are just over 2” difference between front and rear. I think the 2.5 would look better but, will the extra .5” be too much for the stock UCA angle?

Looking for opinions and testimonials. Thanks!

 

[Saddlerocker]

I would do 2" personally, but im shooting for .5" rake. I would rather have a little rake than squatted even if barely noticeable.
Plus the bonus of not worrying about your UCA's

 

[BowersFJ]

No way 2.5” …. Our wagons look silly when they are nose high … 1.5” just to level …. 2” with 1/2” rear spacer …. 2.5” with UCA’s and 1” rear spacer


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[Black19]

I just ordered the RC 2” leveling struts and 275/60/20 on stock night edition wheels.
2019 Bighorn night edition all black.

 

[Shots]

2.5" on my Big Horn (non-orp). I added a spacer to the rear as well because I wanted a little rake too (although I probably could have gotten away with a 1" spacer instead of 1.5"). If you don't plan on adding to the rear I'd stick with 2".
I ordered UCA's just to be safe, but it doesn't look like the stock set have any issues. I've attached 2 photos of the ball joint angles before/after (technically the same photo, but one is zoomed in).

 

[theblet]

2.5" on my Big Horn (non-orp). I added a spacer to the rear as well because I wanted a little rake too (although I probably could have gotten away with a 1" spacer instead of 1.5"). If you don't plan on adding to the rear I'd stick with 2".
I ordered UCA's just to be safe, but it doesn't look like the stock set have any issues. I've attached 2 photos of the ball joint angles before/after (technically the same photo, but one is zoomed in).

Thanks guys. So you pic after 2.5” is before the UCAs we’re changed?

 

[Shots]

Correct it's after the lift with stock UCA's. When I did the install I was planning on swapping the UCA at the same time, but I couldn't get the ball joint to release. So instead of beating on it, and/or destroying a perfectly good ball joint with a pickle fork I left the stock ones on. I got a lifetime alignment so I figure I'll replace them when they start to ware.

Even if you swap them though, it should look the same. I bought the OEM UCA's sold with the Mopar 2" lift and as I understand it the only difference is a higher angle ball joint with all other dimensions being the same. Looking at mine, I don't think the angle has really changed an appreciable amount so I doubt they're necessary unless you're doing serious and/or regular off roading. I haven't put them on yet and at this point don't know if I will ever need to so I may have $125 of parts sitting in my garage that won't get used. Oops.

 

[Whoa_Ram]

I would go with 2". It will settle down to 1-3/4" but it looks good and leaves a little rake for when or if you tow. I think if I would have went 2.5" it would have been nose high and I would have had to add a 1/2" or 1" spacer in the rear. Also it depends on the tire size you are going with. If you do 2.5" front and 1" rear a 33" tire might still look small. Just my opinion though.

 

[theblet]

Thanks y’all.

 

[Saddlerocker]

No way 2.5” …. Our wagons look silly when they are nose high … 1.5” just to level …. 2” with 1/2” rear spacer …. 2.5” with UCA’s and 1” rear spacer


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Do you know of a 1/2" spacer for the 5thgen?

 

[Shots]

I would go with 2". It will settle down to 1-3/4" but it looks good and leaves a little rake for when or if you tow. I think if I would have went 2.5" it would have been nose high and I would have had to add a 1/2" or 1" spacer in the rear. Also it depends on the tire size you are going with. If you do 2.5" front and 1" rear a 33" tire might still look small. Just my opinion though.

See my photos above for 33's with a 2.5" kit.
Could they be bigger? Sure, but I don't think they look disproportionately small either.

As for the kit settling. In my experience none have settled to less than the designated height, but that may depend on brand and if you're using top hat or pre load spacers. This has been my experience based on 4 of the Rams I've had ('07, '12, '14 and '21) and 2 of my brother's F150's (not sure the years on those), all with top hat spacers of various brands.

I agree that 2.5" without a rear spacer will be nose high. That probably depending on the truck but mine had 2.25" of rake when it was at stock configuration, so no rear spacer would have left me 1/4" nose high.

With the 2.5/1.5 kit, I've got 1.25" of rake. If I had gotten the 1" set for the rear instead of the 1.5" set I would have 3/4" of rake now which is about perfect. Doing it all again, I'd do that. Actually, since I have the lifetime alignment, I'm considering swapping the rear spacers but that'll probably be a project for spring since I don't like working on cold trucks.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Correct it's after the lift with stock UCA's. When I did the install I was planning on swapping the UCA at the same time, but I couldn't get the ball joint to release. So instead of beating on it, and/or destroying a perfectly good ball joint with a pickle fork I left the stock ones on. I got a lifetime alignment so I figure I'll replace them when they start to ware.

Even if you swap them though, it should look the same. I bought the OEM UCA's sold with the Mopar 2" lift and as I understand it the only difference is a higher angle ball joint with all other dimensions being the same. Looking at mine, I don't think the angle has really changed an appreciable amount so I doubt they're necessary unless you're doing serious and/or regular off roading. I haven't put them on yet and at this point don't know if I will ever need to so I may have $125 of parts sitting in my garage that won't get used. Oops.

How did you install a lift in the front without separating the ball joints?

 

[HSKR R/T]

2" if you don't have the ORP. As mentioned if you go 2.5" you will need to lift rear some to avoid being nose high.

 

[Shots]

How did you install a lift in the front without separating the ball joints?

Adaptability
Seriously though, I just unbolted the UCA from the frame and swung it out of the way still attached to the knuckle. The attached image is not from my truck (it's random image I found on a search for "Ram front suspension") but it shows you where to find the 2 bolts you need to remove (I marked them with red).
You'll still need to release the one on the tie rod but that released just fine.

 

[theblet]

Adaptability
Seriously though, I just unbolted the UCA from the frame and swung it out of the way still attached to the knuckle. The attached image is not from my truck (it's random image I found on a search for "Ram front suspension") but it shows you where to find the 2 bolts you need to remove (I marked them with red).
You'll still need to release the one on the tie rod but that released just fine.

Whatever works!

 

[Brunzca]

I'm having mine installed today - Motofab 3" front, 1.5" rear, with RC UCAs, and putting on 34" Nitto Recons. I measured a 2.5" rake with stock rims/tires.

 

[Shots]

So you should have 1" of rake after the install, that sounds great. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Also looking forward to seeing those Recons. I just looked them up and they look nice.

 

[german88]

No way 2.5” …. Our wagons look silly when they are nose high … 1.5” just to level …. 2” with 1/2” rear spacer …. 2.5” with UCA’s and 1” rear spacer


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Agree with this^^^^ I went with 1.5" and there's 1/2" rake left and no need for UCA's.

 

[EJ84]

Agree with this^^^^ I went with 1.5" and there's 1/2" rake left and no need for UCA's.

Any pictures?

 

[Idahoktm]

Agree with this^^^^ I went with 1.5" and there's 1/2" rake left and no need for UCA's.

What's odd is I went with the ReadyLift 2" kit, and I have almost 1" of rake. Right after install, I had 1/2" of rake. I suppose each truck is a little different, so you may need to measure before deciding how much lift you need/want.