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Fox Coilover Lift Kit

I don’t have the Fox kit, but I do have Kings. That said, I don’t see it being possible to gain 3” of lift over the OEM Rebel lift without some sort of spindle lift / new front crossmember. The kings are set from Thuren at + 2.5” which is over an OEM non- ORG or Rebel Ram 1500, so on the Rebel I netted around 1.5” which is enough for 35” tires and I still maintain good CV angles and a good amount of down travel. I’ve personally seen a Ram 1500 someone used a strut spacer on to net 3” over stock. The upper a-arm / CV joint angles were horrific and the down travel was hampered.

I know that’s not what you asked, but I hope it helped.
 
Ironic for me to have just seen this thread a few minutes ago as for the last few hours I have been researching front damper solutions to achieve the 2" front level (I already have RL UCA's) on the Rebel instead of using the front spacer that ever kit has (because it's cheaper for the consumer, so they sell more...).

The answer to your question is: No, it does not. It nets 2" over the Rebels stock height. The above dude is correct in that you can't go over 3" higher in a non-ORG Ram which equals you can't go higher than 2" on an ORG or Rebel model. Anything above the 3"/2" and your suspension geometry will be f****d, to the point you will prematurely damage components like he said. That's why 3" is like a grey area for us... starting at 4" lifts (4" over non-ORG/non-Rebel height, 3" over ORG/Rebel) you have start relocating your suspension components to offset the large height increase and get your geometry back into tolerance.

Bear with me man this will be a bit lengthy:

Most of my past and present "car mod" time is spent focusing on heavily modifying high performance cars (IE I'm building a Lotus Evora S now, and about to start on a new Z51 C8 as well this summer). I know a good bit from hipo cars, but I'm new to modifying trucks as I originally bought this Rebel for work, but of course had to start modding it. The point is, using a strut top mount spacer to achieve a 2" front level just doesn't sit well with me. For me, it's like just using progressive drop springs on a car to lower it and leaving the existing dampers... thereby completely throwing off the bump/droop ratio of the damper, riding the bump-stops, and eventually killing the damper. It's just not the right way to lower a car, yet many do it. Another example is using drop cups on struts (aka lowering the spring's bottom mount cup) to lower a car. Another short cut. The right answer: Adjustable coilovers at all 4 corners. This truck level scenario isn't as drastic, but using a spacer still feels like taking a short cut.

So naturally I have been trying to find either a front height adjustable coilover that can go to 3" (2" versus the Rebel stock height), preferably also with adjustable combined rebound/compression, or simply an appropriately extended shock/spring combo for the 2" height increase. IMHO, these 2 solutions are the correct way to level the front of the truck, albeit yes more expensive and thereby many wouldn't do it.

Regardless, I'm truly surprised that there are not more adjustable coilover options to reach 2" (ORG/Rebel) front level height (putting your geometry at the MAX side of the tolerance -- Geometry definitely not great) without having to use top strut mount spacers. I mean dude you're telling me I have to get Fox's $2100 Performance Elite Series to achieve that front 2" level...? The only other possibility I see is those Bilstein 5100's some get which have an adjustable lower spring seat for changing ride height.

/rant.

Sorry for somewhat hijacking...
 
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The 2-3" extended travel 2.5 DSC coilovers from Fox if set to 3" of lift (they come set at 2") will only net you 2" over a stock Rebel height.

The model number is : FOX-883-06-166. Fox lists this model to only be used with aftermarket UCAs.

Here is a picture of my Rebel with 35s and Fox 2.5 DSC front and back. 1" lift in the back as well.
PXL_20210120_215223784.PORTRAIT.jpg
 
How did you get 1’ extra lift in the back? Am I correct to say that Clayton springs will give you +/- 2 inch lift vs Rebel spring height?
 
Jeansebplante said:
How did you get 1’ extra lift in the back? Am I correct to say that Clayton springs will give you +/- 2 inch lift vs Rebel spring height?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what RebelWraith did, but the Clayton springs will give you 1.5 Inches of lift over the stock Rebel springs. I have a decent amount of weight in my bed which all the time (diamondback HD plus tray and gear) which lowers that by about .5 inches. I wanted a small rear lift because being perfectly level guaranteed that I was front heavy any time I put something in the bed.
 
Jeansebplante said:
How did you get 1’ extra lift in the back? Am I correct to say that Clayton springs will give you +/- 2 inch lift vs Rebel spring height?
Click to expand...
Replaced the factory rear rubber upper spring perch with the Daystar polyurethane upper spring perch that adds approximately 1".
 
@RebelWraith did you measure the before and after height change? For whatever reason it doesn’t look like it’s +2” over Rebel height. Are you running a true 35” tire or a metric equivalent like a 295 70 18??
 
RebelWraith said:
The 2-3" extended travel 2.5 DSC coilovers from Fox if set to 3" of lift (they come set at 2") will only net you 2" over a stock Rebel height.

The model number is : FOX-883-06-166. Fox lists this model to only be used with aftermarket UCAs.

Here is a picture of my Rebel with 35s and Fox 2.5 DSC front and back. 1" lift in the back as well.
View attachment 83774
Click to expand...
Are you able to get a measurement for me? center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender on the front.
 
SoCalBogey said:
@RebelWraith did you measure the before and after height change? For whatever reason it doesn’t look like it’s +2” over Rebel height. Are you running a true 35” tire or a metric equivalent like a 295 70 18??
Click to expand...

It's an optical illusion more or less because he also raised the rear by 1" as well, in which when you increase the rake (compared to a front level only truck) it will always make the front look lower than it really is via the increased rear wheel well gap visually minimizing the front wheel gap. If I only focus on the front I can confidently say his front end looks identical in overall height and wheel well gap as compared to mine which has 2" RL spacers also on true 35's.
 
seribralcrow said:
As perfectly described above, I netted about 1.5” from the Fox setup you listed.
Click to expand...

So I'm curious, why did you net only 1.5" from these extended length coilovers?

And as a question to both you and @RebelWraith : Are both of you guys maxed out on threads, like cant even go a fraction of a turn more?

As an unrelated general side note about these coils: At like $1000 per coilover, I would have expected an additional locking ring vs tightening screws on the perch ring to lock. Especially given these are meant for off-road trucks.
 
Boost Monkey said:
So I'm curious, why did you net only 1.5" from these extended length coilovers?

And as a question to both you and @RebelWraith : Are both of you guys maxed out on threads, like cant even go a fraction of a turn more?

As an unrelated general side note about these coils: At like $1000 per coilover, I would have expected an additional locking ring vs tightening screws on the perch ring to lock. Especially given these are meant for off-road trucks.
Click to expand...
There are still threads to go further down on the shock body. I was given data from FOX that to go further down the body and provide more lift I would need a different spring which they do not have yet. I'm not too worried about going any higher though as I don't want to limit the life of the CV axles anymore than I already am.

One thing to note is once you get to the point of compressing the spring enough to adjust the locking collar for 3" of lift the spring is touching the discs on a commercial grade spring compressor. So, what am getting at is if you do set the FOX coilovers at 3" of lift you have just enough spring gap that when the coilover is at full compression the spring almost becomes solid. Anymore adjustment and you'll hear clatter from the spring clapping it's coils while offroading.

FOX really cheaped out with just the one locking collar. If I had to guess too many people adjusted them incorrectly on their vehicle causing damage to the threads on the shock body (There is a proper way if you have both collars). The way it is set up by FOX now you need to remove the coilovers to adjust them or compress the springs on the truck and adjust the collar. I've seen some sketchy videos of people backing out the lock screw 1 turn and beating the collar around to compress the spring. The collar is rather soft metal and so is the shock body. I'd rather not destroy something this expensive.
 
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RebelWraith said:
There are still threads to go further down on the shock body. I was given data from FOX that to go further down the body and provide more lift I would need a different spring which they do not have yet. I'm not too worried about going an higher though as I don't want to limit the life of the CV axles anymore than I already am.

One thing to note is once you get to the point of compressing the spring enough to adjust the locking collar for 3" of lift the spring is touching the discs on a commercial grade spring compressor. So, what am getting at is if you do set the FOX coilovers at 3" of lift you have just enough spring gap that when the coilover is at full compression the spring almost becomes solid. Anymore adjustment and you'll hear clatter from the spring clapping it's coils while offroading.

FOX really cheaped out with just the one locking collar. If I had to guess too many people adjusted them incorrectly on their vehicle causing damage to the threads on the shock body (There is a proper way if you have both collars). The way it is set up by FOX now you need to remove the coilovers to adjust them or compress the springs on the truck and adjust the collar. I've seen some sketchy videos of people backing out the lock screw 1 turn and beating the collar around to compress the spring. The collar is rather soft metal and so is the shock body. I'd rather not destroy something this expensive.
Click to expand...
I could crank them more if I wanted, but I don't feel it is necessary or helpful. I'm running stock tires so the lift is really aesthetic right now. I also have plenty of clearance for 34's when I feel like I need an upgrade. With all the offroading I'm doing, I only run full size spares so I'm limited on tire size to what will fit under the truck. I bought spring compressors and adjusted them on the truck to get a little bit more lift. However, I'm quite happy with the stance and rake that I have now. When I first started, I thought I cared about the truck being level, but what I really hated was how low the front end sat. Once the truck was level (first with Bilstein 5100s and then the Fox coilovers) I realized that the rear was also too low and I HATED that the truck would be nose high with stuff in the bed. That's when I picked up the Clayton springs and Core Swaybar links. I'm extremely pleased with the stance and performance. I started with the 5100s and hated the ride. They were very stiff. My goal with Fox was to get enough functional lift without sacrificing the performance at all.
 
I'll also add that before I bought these I didn't think I cared about off-roading at relatively high speed. Wow did that change....

If I I was not hitting trails at speed, I don't know if I would drop this kind of coin again. YMMV of course, just my observations. The DSC is fantastic for adjustments between on and off road, but these really shine above 25 mph
 
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