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Rebel Falcon Shocks/Lift/TFL Truck

Steelwheelz

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Any comments on this set up? Doesn’t seem like they change the upper control arms. Link attached below:



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Billet1500 4x4

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Any comments on this set up? Doesn’t seem like they change the upper control arms. Link attached below:



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Teraflex might be the first to the market with some good aftermarket shock options. Very pricey when compared to a set of Bilstein 5100 but they are a much more robust shock. A comparable Bilstein would be a 6112 and 5160 if they ever release them for the Ram. I contacted them back in October of last year to ask if they had anything for the new Ram which they didn't at the time. Glad to see something should be out pretty soon.

teraflex.JPG
 

SilverSurfer15

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Good find

Teraflex is legit stuff. I bet these would do really well swapped out with the factory strut/preload spacer in most 6” kits. I was looking at getting custom kings made, but this is a lot cheaper route and might ride as nice.

But kings do look sweet.

Edit: so I just called king:

(These are for 2018 shocks but I assume they will be the same price for the 19)

1599 - coilver
200 - custom length
300 - custom colors

949 - rear shocks
200 - custom length
300 - custom colors

So pretty price. Even without any mods, 2600 bucks. This is full retail, you can get them on sale and what not through 3rd party so probably 2300-2500. Let’s call it 1k more than teraflex.

So looks like bilstein will probably be sub 400 for the basic 5100 front only, these are 1500 for the adjustable compression units, and then kings are 2500 for full out coilover.

Is bilstein still Doing the 5100 for cheap? I think they have a newer model that’s similar to these units? 5200 or something?
 
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SilverSurfer15

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Any comments on this set up? Doesn’t seem like they change the upper control arms.

To answer this part, you don’t need to change the control arms with this or any setup where the lift being achieved by preloading the spring/strut (or cycling the suspension. On most trucks anyways.

The control arm issue really only comes into play when you are changing the length of the actual strut itself.

For a quick example, let’s say you have a 20” long strut. It moves 4” up and 4” down all within the stock geometry and the ride height is set in the middle there. Well, you can preload this spring 2”, so now your ride height is 2” higher, but you’ve extended the strut itself by 2” thus limiting the available travel. Now you can only extend this strut another 2” before it’s tapped out. Leaving you back in the same spot as you were with the stock setup, it only extended 4” in total. So your UCA is still in the max droop, you just happen to be riding in a different area of the travel. And there are limits this too, you obviously don’t want to be riding around at full droop. Besides the bad ride quality, your UCA won’t be great there either just because it’s at the very edge of its limits. It’s designed to operate in this 4 up 4 down range, but not to be ran 24/7 at one extreme end. That’s why you typically see about 2” of max lift on this types of deals (bilsteins) and it differs from truck to truck a bit just depending on their geometry limitations.

With a spacer, you add 2” to the overall length of the strut. So now your strut is 22” long, but still has 4” of droop. So it’s no longer in stock spec, the whole geometry has now been changed. You can now basically over extended that UCA by those 2” from the spacer which can cause issues. It starts at 2” droop if you will, and can still go down the full 4” because nothing is stopping it from doing so since the strut doesn’t know it’s now 2” longer.

The aftermarket control arms adjust the position of the balljoint to allow for this extra travel. Or at least that’s their goal.

So same thing happens with a lift kit right, only this time you’ve got a ~6” spacer, you get new taller spindles where they have moved the balljoint again to a new location that will ideally be back similarly to the stock geometry, and then the diff drop brackets for the CV shafts and driveshaft angles.

Long post, but hopefully this makes sense.
 

Steelwheelz

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To answer this part, you don’t need to change the control arms with this or any setup where the lift being achieved by preloading the spring/strut (or cycling the suspension. On most trucks anyways.

The control arm issue really only comes into play when you are changing the length of the actual strut itself.

For a quick example, let’s say you have a 20” long strut. It moves 4” up and 4” down all within the stock geometry and the ride height is set in the middle there. Well, you can preload this spring 2”, so now your ride height is 2” higher, but you’ve extended the strut itself by 2” thus limiting the available travel. Now you can only extend this strut another 2” before it’s tapped out. Leaving you back in the same spot as you were with the stock setup, it only extended 4” in total. So your UCA is still in the max droop, you just happen to be riding in a different area of the travel. And there are limits this too, you obviously don’t want to be riding around at full droop. Besides the bad ride quality, your UCA won’t be great there either just because it’s at the very edge of its limits. It’s designed to operate in this 4 up 4 down range, but not to be ran 24/7 at one extreme end. That’s why you typically see about 2” of max lift on this types of deals (bilsteins) and it differs from truck to truck a bit just depending on their geometry limitations.

With a spacer, you add 2” to the overall length of the strut. So now your strut is 22” long, but still has 4” of droop. So it’s no longer in stock spec, the whole geometry has now been changed. You can now basically over extended that UCA by those 2” from the spacer which can cause issues. It starts at 2” droop if you will, and can still go down the full 4” because nothing is stopping it from doing so since the strut doesn’t know it’s now 2” longer.

The aftermarket control arms adjust the position of the balljoint to allow for this extra travel. Or at least that’s their goal.

So same thing happens with a lift kit right, only this time you’ve got a ~6” spacer, you get new taller spindles where they have moved the balljoint again to a new location that will ideally be back similarly to the stock geometry, and then the diff drop brackets for the CV shafts and driveshaft angles.

Long post, but hopefully this makes sense.

Thanks! Makes sense. Those Falcons look nice and beefy! Hope they rollout soon. I also heard ready lift is dropping a 6” kit for Ram in the fall.


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67Woody

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Talked to Teraflex about the Falcon shocks today. They said they may possibly have production Sport/Haul model for the Rebel by the end of the year. Did not sound like they would have anything for the rest of the Ram 1500 line up. Not very committed that they will be in production by then but they are trying.
 

Steelwheelz

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Any update on these?

I emailed them recently and they just keep saying they are dropping soon. They have numerous test rigs out there and should be in final stages for release in 2020.


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67Woody

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I hope they release them soon. I would like to get the kit for extra clearance for my snow plow. When mounted and you go through some deep ruts/dips in the road the blade does barely touch with the factory shocks and no lift kit.
 
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I'm not sure if Icon are popular choice with out trucks, they have different stages available for 5th Gen.
 

Downytide

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I'm not sure if Icon are popular choice with out trucks, they have different stages available for 5th Gen.

I'm curious about their stage 1 vs Falcon's design, seems very close in design, but Falcon has remote reservoir built in for rear shocks and you can change dampening for when towing.

And I think Falcon prices should be in line with their 4th gen kit, which is about 200-300 cheaper than Icon's, but then almost everyone that I know ran with Icon has had good experience with them, hard call.

 

Billet1500 4x4

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I'm curious about their stage 1 vs Falcon's design, seems very close in design, but Falcon has remote reservoir built in for rear shocks and you can change dampening for when towing.

And I think Falcon prices should be in line with their 4th gen kit, which is about 200-300 cheaper than Icon's, but then almost everyone that I know ran with Icon has had good experience with them, hard call.

depending on what plan on doing with the truck the icon stage is batter setup. it's a true 2.5" coil over 7/8" shaft with fully adjustable pre-load. Completely rebuildable and the valving can be changed or tuned to suit damping requirements. The falcon is is more of beefier Bilstein 5100 but with 2.25" body and 3/4" shaft but uses the same snap ring style preload as the 5100 but with fewer height options. I've seen the icon set-up priced at 1500 on a couple websites. For the price the icon is a better set-up.
 

Hallbag

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I agree that the icon is a better setup but if you have a Rebel or ORG springs, wont it only get you 1.5" of lift in the front? Same with the king coilover setup? So while your actual suspension setup is better all around, you're still not level unless I am wrong here.
 

SilverSurfer15

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I agree that the icon is a better setup but if you have a Rebel or ORG springs, wont it only get you 1.5" of lift in the front? Same with the king coilover setup? So while your actual suspension setup is better all around, you're still not level unless I am wrong here.

Yea you’d probably need to get a base spring for the rear to lose that inch. The truck that icon posted looked good to me though, I wouldn’t say it’s level but it definitely doesn’t have that over aggressive raked look like they do stock.
 

Downytide

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depending on what plan on doing with the truck the icon stage is batter setup. it's a true 2.5" coil over 7/8" shaft with fully adjustable pre-load. Completely rebuildable and the valving can be changed or tuned to suit damping requirements. The falcon is is more of beefier Bilstein 5100 but with 2.25" body and 3/4" shaft but uses the same snap ring style preload as the 5100 but with fewer height options. I've seen the icon set-up priced at 1500 on a couple websites. For the price the icon is a better set-up.

Honestly, I'd love to have similar ride as Tundra TRD Pro or Raptor on the pavement, and on rough service roads so I can maintain speed, as it sits, I have plenty of clearances, but may be 1 or 2" up front with 35"s and that's just about perfect.
 

7amada

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Yea you’d probably need to get a base spring for the rear to lose that inch. The truck that icon posted looked good to me though, I wouldn’t say it’s level but it definitely doesn’t have that over aggressive raked look like they do stock.
What pic?
 

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