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What did you do to your Ram today???

Had a solid start to the weekend - installed a set of Baja Designs LP6 Lights on my 2025 Rebel using our new OEM+ Light Mounting Kit. Love how the amber backlight matches all the marker lights and how the 6" light fills the open grille area.

https://www.vicedesign.ca/collections/2025-ram-1500-rebel/products/oem-led-bumper-light-mount-set-2025-ram-rebel-rho
IMG_8170.jpg


VICE OEM+ 2025 LIGHT MOUNTS LP6 001.JPG

Also received my new Toyo's, Methods, Bilstein's and BDS parts.. Let the next stage of the build begin! 😃
 
boogielander said:
at 11PM:
looked at my leaky washer bottle to see if it's a loose connection causing the leak or a crack on the bottle. Couldn't see anything. Determined if I was gonna take the bottle out to check I might as well just replace it.
Started to take apart the front, then 15 minutes later as I got the grille loose I realized I need to remove the LP9s on the bumper to fully remove the front to gain access. Reconsidered my options, and decided I can probably live with leaky washer bottle and refilling it every 4-5 days until I get annoyed enough to remove the whole front end. said F it and put everything back and called it a night.

also i found like 20 dead bees (road kills from Alaska trip) and heavy layer of dust/ dirt in the front. i'll hose all that when I redo it... just don't know when.

oh also upgraded my wireless charger in the OE phone holder location (I do not have the MOPAR wireless charger, never did. I just put a wireless charger there) and upgraded the 110v -> USB-C adapter. Now i have true 15w wireless charging on my iphone. Never understand why people with wireless carplay/ android auto need to put their phone on the top with dash mounts so they can see it...
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Maybe as a temporary fix, if you find where leak is, use some butyl tape to stop leak, warm it up and will stick forever. Is cheap, same stuff people use to seal rv roofs. Could put water with some color in it to see leak better or tape top and put pump on it to pressurize it a little so leaks easy to see.
 
New shoes for the 2020 Laramie Longhorn. I was still on the original Bridgestone Duelers with a bit less than 25K, but had gotten some uneven wear on the passenger side pair.

Replaced them with a set of Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent on Saturday, will be going in for alignment on Monday.

Old tires
PXL_20250416_135915558c.jpg
PXL_20250416_135938279c.jpg
They were being rotated at about a 5K interval.

New tires
PXL_20250427_124951365.jpg

PXL_20250427_125003479.jpg

So far I haven't noticed any road noise to speak of.
 
Nikdfish said:
New shoes for the 2020 Laramie Longhorn. I was still on the original Bridgestone Duelers with a bit less than 25K, but had gotten some uneven wear on the passenger side pair.

Replaced them with a set of Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent on Saturday, will be going in for alignment on Monday.

Old tires
View attachment 200276
View attachment 200277
They were being rotated at about a 5K interval.

New tires
View attachment 200278

View attachment 200279

So far I haven't noticed any road noise to speak of.
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Looks good, that is what I am thinking about going with, let us know how they do. I looked at my stock Alenza's today and they do look almost half worn only at 10,500 miles so will probably need them by 25K.
 
rotwiler said:
Maybe as a temporary fix, if you find where leak is, use some butyl tape to stop leak, warm it up and will stick forever. Is cheap, same stuff people use to seal rv roofs. Could put water with some color in it to see leak better or tape top and put pump on it to pressurize it a little so leaks easy to see.
Click to expand...
oh yeah if i had the patience to take the bottle out and didn't already have the dealer deliver new bottle already hahaa honestly for under $50 for the bottle that comes with new sensor and new pump I can't complain ahhaha
 
Well, nothing to my 1500, but I had to remove the seats in my families 2500 (2019). Something failed under the seat and it got stuck in the forward position. Of course it happened after they had moved the seat all the way forward to vacuum under it. Those rear bolts were RUSTED. wow. Had to get up under the truck and clean off as much of the rust as I could and still use a torch to loosen them.

No idea what caused the issue, everything looks fine. No frayed wires, nothing caught on the tracks, fuses are good (checked the passenger one too and even swapped them and the passenger still worked), nothing disconnected or loose.

Any ideas? Maybe I missed something aside from testing every wire and trying to trace a bunch of electronics. Either way, they are taking it in tomorrow (going to be an uncomfortable drive) so we'll see what they say.

And then I disabled mine again lol.

Mine has given me nothing but problems and constantly even loses it's entire memory settings where I press "1" and nothing happens. So I just disabled it, again. I caved not long ago as I was cleaning it out because I like the feature and it helps reduce the tearing up of the seat on that side where I slide in and out or even turn to get out, but it's obviously not worth this level of crap so I'm just going to disable it and never buy that feature again. Manual cloth seats from here on out.
 
Montana_ said:
Well, nothing to my 1500, but I had to remove the seats in my families 2500 (2019). Something failed under the seat and it got stuck in the forward position. Of course it happened after they had moved the seat all the way forward to vacuum under it. Those rear bolts were RUSTED. wow. Had to get up under the truck and clean off as much of the rust as I could and still use a torch to loosen them.

No idea what caused the issue, everything looks fine. No frayed wires, nothing caught on the tracks, fuses are good (checked the passenger one too and even swapped them and the passenger still worked), nothing disconnected or loose.

Any ideas? Maybe I missed something aside from testing every wire and trying to trace a bunch of electronics. Either way, they are taking it in tomorrow (going to be an uncomfortable drive) so we'll see what they say.

And then I disabled mine again lol.

Mine has given me nothing but problems and constantly even loses it's entire memory settings where I press "1" and nothing happens. So I just disabled it, again. I caved not long ago as I was cleaning it out because I like the feature and it helps reduce the tearing up of the seat on that side where I slide in and out or even turn to get out, but it's obviously not worth this level of crap so I'm just going to disable it and never buy that feature again. Manual cloth seats from here on out.
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Possibly bad switch panel
 
JamRam said:
I ....... WANT.....THAT!!!

was it hard to do?
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If you meant me....

I'm no mechanic by any stretch and it's not hard. It's the usual little things that are tough like fishing wires through those really tight boots between the door and cab, working in tight spaces, making sure you have the right tools (a long T25 to get the door handle off).

It did take a while, several hours in my case, but I was taking my time. I also managed to damage one of the connections so I took some time trying to find one at the auto parts stores (3 of them) before coming home and just rigging it up. I ordered replacements in case this one fails.

All of my cars have had that feature for the last decade plus, this was a MUST HAVE as far as I'm concerned.

I used wires from Jimm07 and followed a combo of the dedicated thread and the video out there by Infotainment.
 
boogielander said:
#goodasnew
View attachment 200328
I did pick an angle that makes it really visible lol but still better than the "before":
View attachment 200327

I only did it to prevent further paint chip or rust. by no means this is a professional job (body work and paint are not my expertise)
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Don't remember, but was that a tree limb that hit it? If that's all the damage you have with all the exploring you do you are doing well.
I can buff a truck/car to be shinny, but any type of body work I'll make a mess of it. I have zero artistic ability at all.
Have you or has anyone else here made a list of supplies needed when exploring/traveling?
 
RAM REAPER MAN said:
Don't remember, but was that a tree limb that hit it? If that's all the damage you have with all the exploring you do you are doing well.
I can buff a truck/car to be shinny, but any type of body work I'll make a mess of it. I have zero artistic ability at all.
Have you or has anyone else here made a list of supplies needed when exploring/traveling?
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it was a hidden road post/ reflective marker thing hiding inside a bush lol
that's the only damage, aside from all the pin stripes on the paint (which i don't care about because they only show when truck is caked in dust). this one was kind of visible even without dust on truck and it did went through paint (but not primer)

i don't think there's a list of supplies, but the basics are:
  • recovery gear (traction board if travel solo), tow strap and kinetic strap, winch (i say it's not necessary because i know my limits and if i go out of my comfort zone there's always other vehicles to yank me out. we usually have at least 1 winch on group outings and for the past 5 years we only used it once)
  • air hose system and compressor for airing up and down. you don't have to have a 4 way hose system but with a 4 way system you can air down and up all4 tires at the same time, and keep the pressure equal among all 4 tires.
  • air plug kit (ive been using ARB kit both at the shop and in my truck. I do not trust gluetread thing)
  • full size, matching spare. imagine running 35s or 37s and have a stock 33 spare. or imagine running negative offset wheels and then having a postive offset spare that will hit your UCA.
  • first aide/ trauma kit and know how to use it. wilderness first aide classes are recommended, though I never took it lol
  • med kit and make sure the meds are not expired/ up to date
  • sat communicator (Garmin inReach, iphone with sat capacity)
  • starlink (optional, but keeps internet access available 24/7 as long as you have proper power source) - most people use it for entertainment purpose, but it allows your homebase (spouse, family, friends, etc) to track you and give you a second lifeline
    • cellular boosters used to be a top contender for boosting cell signal, but you can't boost what you don't have. if you're really off grid then booster will not work.
    • starlink has put weboost out of equation for overland/ expedition travel. but it's still useful for fleet or truckers since there's no monthly charge.
  • the regular food, drink, camping stuff etc.
  • spare fuel jug/ jugs, depending on where you going and your vehicle's range.
I always ALWAYS have redundancy when it comes to things like these, especially when venturing into unknown or remote places. Sure, iphone has sat communication capability, but I still carry an inreach on my person just in case i lose the phone or phone dies, I still have a way to communicate and get help.

same thing with spare. i see people have bigger tires and aftermarket wheels, but only in set of 4. It doesn't make sense at all, because if one of the 4 is unusable and you're off grid, how are you going to get out with a stock spare? highway profile tires not going to work on rough terrains, and if that one goes you're down to 3. i understand it doesn't make financial sense to buy set of 5 matching wheels and tires, but then if cost of the 5th is an issue... maybe this is not something you should do (the "you" here is not directed at you, but in terms of people in general - ive had my fair share of leading and inviting people to runs who are just to cheap to buy proper equipment and things have gone terribly wrong before, and ending up babysitting those people and waste my time. hope that clears up why I HATE people who put financial sense over safety)

i have a post about things I brought to Alaska/ Arctic last year somewhere. I just have to redo it in English and I'll put it up, hopefully before end of summer lol
 
boogielander said:
#goodasnew
View attachment 200328
I did pick an angle that makes it really visible lol but still better than the "before":
View attachment 200327

I only did it to prevent further paint chip or rust. by no means this is a professional job (body work and paint are not my expertise)
Click to expand...
That's how you know this guy off roads, didn't even wash that puppy first! :LOL:

I kid, looks way better than it did. I did a little slow parking lot curb job on a Scat Pack Widebody I had, turned too tight. Man it made me so mad, car only had like 2k miles. I found a legit wheel repair guy who made that ridiculously priced wheel look like new for like $20. Amazing what can be done with the right skill and/or tools.
 
bushman77 said:
Mocking up some brackets to mount 3” cubes into the winch control holes in my fabfours bumper
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3/16” thick stainless sheet cut and bent by a local shop, test fit and then painted them and installed today
 

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