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What did you do to your Ram today???

Jlew593 said:
Finally got around to getting the level and new wheels and tires installed, along with a little extra growl from the exhaust. Will get some more pics soon. In the meantime here’s the details:

Bilstein 5100 front struts
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
Arena Wheel Co. Mission Wheels 20x9, 0 offset
LT285/65/20 Falken Wildpeak AT4w

Carven Competitor Series Cut and Clamp exhaust w/ stock resonators
Carven 5” Black ceramic tips

All the work done by DirtyDiesels in Birdsboro, PA. Drove nearly an hour to work with them due to a recommendation and couldn’t be happier with the deal they got me and the work they did. Highly recommend to reach out to them if you’re in the southeast/central PA region.
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I'm leaning towards that Carven setup too. Really like that sound.

Congrats on your glow up ;)
 
JerryBsizzle said:
Installed chase lights. NH Overland brackets and Auxbeam R4's. I'm impressed. Lots and lots of heavy fog down here on the bayou. A year and a half ago on a road I travel regularly there was a 160 car pile up and 7 dead because of superfog. Ill flip these to strobe anytime I feel like I need it. Could save a life.
View attachment 197824View attachment 197825
View attachment 197826View attachment 197827View attachment 197828View attachment 197829View attachment 197830View attachment 197831
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DAM THOSE ARE BRIGHT
 
Jlew593 said:
Finally got around to getting the level and new wheels and tires installed, along with a little extra growl from the exhaust. Will get some more pics soon. In the meantime here’s the details:

Bilstein 5100 front struts
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
Arena Wheel Co. Mission Wheels 20x9, 0 offset
LT285/65/20 Falken Wildpeak AT4w

Carven Competitor Series Cut and Clamp exhaust w/ stock resonators
Carven 5” Black ceramic tips

All the work done by DirtyDiesels in Birdsboro, PA. Drove nearly an hour to work with them due to a recommendation and couldn’t be happier with the deal they got me and the work they did. Highly recommend to reach out to them if you’re in the southeast/central PA region.
Click to expand...
Chop off those resonators you wont regret it! (rear ones)
 
1BADRAMLIMITED said:
DAM THOSE ARE BRIGHT
Click to expand...
photos outputs are misrepresentations unless the photographer set the camera perimeters to match human visual levels.
that said, they are bright for chinese standard, but not as bright as the American brand standards.

example:
taken with DJI drone, auto settings not adjusted (F2.8, 0.5s shutter). The area immediate in front of the truck is white, so is that bush to the right. That is over exposure to compensate for the night and not really representation of output. Think of it as "night mode" on phone cameras, where shutter is slowed down to allow more lights in to compensate for the dark environment.
1741847558770.png
The correct way would be to set the camera parameter to match naked eye, then take multiple shots of different lights on and stack in post. That will show the true output, since all the frontal lights (other than the 2 on hood) should be amber and not white.

But if I didn't say anything, viewers would think the frontal lights are bright AF white.
 
1BADRAMLIMITED said:
DAM THOSE ARE BRIGHT
Click to expand...
Yes they are. Boogielander wrote a bunch of stuff about parameters and camera jargon, but I'm not trying to "sell" something and get approvals. They are bright enough for me and my use, don't really care how they look on a forum to someone else. If anything I would say they are brighter in person.
 
I got her summer shoes put on yesterday. Amazing how much quieter the ride is on my Michelin’s compared to my Yokohama winter tires.
Just got up and looked outside and it’s friggin snowing and I’ve got 7 hours driving on the highway to do today!😳%#&@?
 
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Dogpatch said:
I got her summer shoes put on yesterday. Amazing how much quieter the ride is on my Michelin’s compared to my Yokohama winter tires.
Just got up and looked outside and it’s friggin snowing and I’ve got 7 hours driving on the highway to do today!😳%#&@?
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Rookie move bro!

Winters stay on until easter at least.
 
Ready Go said:
Yep, I've checked his (this) video. Carven w/o resonators..probably quite a bit different than G/T w/o resonators. I like it though, thanks!
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yea im sure it does not sure what all a g/t exhaust consist of so there are some variables to take into account
 
1BADRAMLIMITED said:
yea im sure it does not sure what all a g/t exhaust consist of so there are some variables to take into account
Click to expand...
I put Mopar exhaust on but don't like it, so the G/T is going back on next week..the Mopar is louder when hard on the gas, but almost silent when cruising.

My G/T exhaust has a little higher pitch and more consistent..can almost always hear it to some degree. Turns out, it's more my style after all..but maybe remove the resonators(?)..the G/T resonators have almost no perforations though so almost straight pipe like the G/T muffler (deleting resonators may not change much on a G/T).

I'll have pics of the RC DRL/LED lightbar and LED Reverse Lights soon..and will post pics. Was very time consuming mounting switches into the OEM light switch panel, rebuilding the Relay Wire Harnesses to use a switched trigger 12v input from the fuse box, mountingbthe RC Curved Dual row LED/DRL Lightbar (I put it as far forward as possible..so getting the push locks and top bolts back in were an exercise in patience!), I ran a redundant switch line from the Vice Design Reverse Lights this morning..again, an exercise in patience! Both switches are mounted and tested..work!! All harnesses are in place..just have to make the connections yet and they'll be operational, yeah! I made a 4-way splitter that starts from a WireTap on #44fuse (I think) to trigger the Light bar switch, Reverse Light switch, my Silverholder hood LED strip, and the RC DRL LEDs on the Lightbar..all will only be powered when the Ram is running. The Reverse Lights can be switched on or work when shifted to Reverse. The LB DRLs and Hood strip will always be on with Ignition.

I'll get Night and Day pics of the lights in the next few days..got a busy weekend.

I'm thinking to order the B2 Fab resonator delete pipes so that when I take the Mopar exhaust back off and put the G/T exhaust back on, I can swap the Right resonator pipe with the B2 Fab delete pipe (since the Right side slips on) and run it a few days to see if I can tell a difference from the Left Resonator side and the Right Delete side..a side to side comparison..and then decide if worth it to cut the Left resonator off. I was surprised that those resonators have almost no real holes in them.
 
JerryBsizzle said:
Yes they are. Boogielander wrote a bunch of stuff about parameters and camera jargon, but I'm not trying to "sell" something and get approvals. They are bright enough for me and my use, don't really care how they look on a forum to someone else. If anything I would say they are brighter in person.
Click to expand...
sorry i just like to be technical.
my bad.
 
Ready Go said:
I put Mopar exhaust on but don't like it, so the G/T is going back on next week..the Mopar is louder when hard on the gas, but almost silent when cruising.

My G/T exhaust has a little higher pitch and more consistent..can almost always hear it to some degree. Turns out, it's more my style after all..but maybe remove the resonators(?)..the G/T resonators have almost no perforations though so almost straight pipe like the G/T muffler (deleting resonators may not change much on a G/T).

I'll have pics of the RC DRL/LED lightbar and LED Reverse Lights soon..and will post pics. Was very time consuming mounting switches into the OEM light switch panel, rebuilding the Relay Wire Harnesses to use a switched trigger 12v input from the fuse box, mountingbthe RC Curved Dual row LED/DRL Lightbar (I put it as far forward as possible..so getting the push locks and top bolts back in were an exercise in patience!), I ran a redundant switch line from the Vice Design Reverse Lights this morning..again, an exercise in patience! Both switches are mounted and tested..work!! All harnesses are in place..just have to make the connections yet and they'll be operational, yeah! I made a 4-way splitter that starts from a WireTap on #44fuse (I think) to trigger the Light bar switch, Reverse Light switch, my Silverholder hood LED strip, and the RC DRL LEDs on the Lightbar..all will only be powered when the Ram is running. The Reverse Lights can be switched on or work when shifted to Reverse. The LB DRLs and Hood strip will always be on with Ignition.

I'll get Night and Day pics of the lights in the next few days..got a busy weekend.

I'm thinking to order the B2 Fab resonator delete pipes so that when I take the Mopar exhaust back off and put the G/T exhaust back on, I can swap the Right resonator pipe with the B2 Fab delete pipe (since the Right side slips on) and run it a few days to see if I can tell a difference from the Left Resonator side and the Right Delete side..a side to side comparison..and then decide if worth it to cut the Left resonator off. I was surprised that those resonators have almost no real holes in them.
Click to expand...
Sounds like some good progress made! look forward to seeing the pics and mods. i think i may pull the trigger on the rc curved double row also.

i just used a auxbeam panel and love it i can do momentary strobe and always on/off and adjust brightness and use the app
 
boogielander said:
sorry i just like to be technical.
my bad.
Click to expand...
Photonerd :ROFLMAO::p

I did photography as a hobby for over 10years so I understood everything. I haven't touched my DSLRs for years (Canon 5D & 60D). I have an event this June and need to check if my batteries will hold a charge. Been thinking about transitioning to mirrorless.

I have a Tshirt that says "I Shoot Raw" :LOL: There's a "photography" thread in another car forum I use to frequent.
 
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