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What did you do to your Ram today???

Went in for an oil change.

Left with the knowledge that I have a leaking VVT solenoid gasket and Transfer case.
 
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well since the December Henderson to Laughlin run I noticed my front end seems like it's sitting lower than it should, and rides softer than it should too. I suspected all the weights I have put in last year for Alaska (and left in the truck because I'm too lazy to keep load and unloading the truck... much prefer just to be able to hop in and go) have done their damages on the springs.

I've lost about at least 1" in the front, and about .5" in the rear. Fox recommends 550lb as "it will be plenty enough" but lowkey I'm thinking 600lb... not touching the rear for now, since Carli said upping the front shouldn't be messing with the rear too much.
hmm decision decision.


I know its apples to turnips but I have read a lot of spring rate posts for S10s that 600 for soft 750 for sports and anything higher recommended is just selling off your kidneys before you turn them to mush.
 
Went in for my first recall on the ABS system, got it all updated. 75B/NHTSA 24V-653.

And was told my transmission has been assigned a shipping tracking number. Pretty stoked to get this taken care of ASAP.
 
I know its apples to turnips but I have read a lot of spring rate posts for S10s that 600 for soft 750 for sports and anything higher recommended is just selling off your kidneys before you turn them to mush.
in my case the heavier spring rate is to compensate for the now constant weight, not for increasing the ride height.
upping the spring rate for ride height actually reduces suspension travel, but in my particular case, the additional weight is more than what the current spring specs are capable of handling. therefore, at this time, the spring is actually compressed and my up travel is reduced.
what is interesting here, is that Kings/ Carli Kings come with 550 (iirc) springs, but the free length remain the same while Fox comes with 450lb
 
Went in for my first recall on the ABS system, got it all updated. 75B/NHTSA 24V-653.

And was told my transmission has been assigned a shipping tracking number. Pretty stoked to get this taken care of ASAP.
very nice that the ball is rolling for your transmission!
 
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in my case the heavier spring rate is to compensate for the now constant weight, not for increasing the ride height.
upping the spring rate for ride height actually reduces suspension travel, but in my particular case, the additional weight is more than what the current spring specs are capable of handling. therefore, at this time, the spring is actually compressed and my up travel is reduced.
what is interesting here, is that Kings/ Carli Kings come with 550 (iirc) springs, but the free length remain the same while Fox comes with 450lb
Time for that Power Wagon
 
@1BADRAMLIMITED



This is a link the guy who turned me on to them and why he uses them, which is what I'm using them.

I bought a set of ebay mounts, and they don't fit level, but I think it helps in what I'm using them for. It tips the beam so that the main light pattern runs further down the road.
 
Installed these Husky mudflaps on the front last night. My previous white truck had a tonnnnnn of stone chips in the rockers and even the rear fender flares, so I'm hoping that this alleviates a bit of that. I'm content with the look - it's neither an aesthetic upgrade or downgrade imo.

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This morning's project...

Installed the Mopar (Borla) exhaust on my '24 Larry-G/T...and before your say "hey, dude, you have a G/T so why bother?"

Well, even though the G/T barks fairly well, it has a bit of a muffley sound at idle, and I like a hollower sound...so there you go.

Fairly straight forward and great Mopar/OEM-quality fitment.

I found that to get the edge of the tailpipes the exact same distance from the bumper edge, I had to bottom all the joints, mildy tighten the clamps, then twist/torque the tailpipe to the correct alignment with the bumper cutout, then torque down the clamp.

I honestly thought it would be harder to get the pipes/tips symmetrical, but it really wasn't at all that difficult..Mopar/OEM ball joints for the tips definitely help!

Fairly incognito look since I stayed with the OEM tips..and can't really see that the resonators are gone unless you know or really look closely..but the sound will give it away!

Haven't fired it up yet..I used muffler joint sealer on all the joints to avoid condensation leakage & sputter..it takes about 4hrs to fully set up.
 

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Today’s project was the first one I do with every vehicle. Debadging. However I’m undecided on whether to get rid of the rear RAM or not.

Edit: after thinking about it, I think I’m gonna leave it. Unless I can get rid of the one in the front. Just seems to look better.

Getting ppf, tint, and ceramic next week. Probably going to tint the lights in the mirrors tomorrow or Friday.
 
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View attachment 197404View attachment 197405View attachment 197406

Today’s project was the first one I do with every vehicle. Debadging. However I’m undecided on whether to get rid of the rear RAM or not.

Edit: after thinking about it, I think I’m gonna leave it. Unless I can get rid of the one in the front. Just seems to look better.

Getting ppf, tint, and ceramic next week. Probably going to tint the lights in the mirrors tomorrow or Friday.
Looks fantastic! I thought the tailgate RAM was held with pushpin retainers (therefore holes in the tailgate skin(?).
 
Wheels and tires!
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Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
 

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