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What did you do to your Ram today???

Alter Ego Trip

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Plus, it adds an easy 10hp.😎
Took me longer to get switch out of packaging, then to actually install it.

For those installing; it's waaay easier to pull lower panel and pop switch out from behind, then to remove panel switch button is mounted in. That panel is a prick to sneak by instrument cluster bezel when re installing
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Dewey

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Yesterday I stopped in by my local body shop after seeing they had a sign up for paintless dent removal. I had 6 door dings on my truck and they bothered me every single time I detailed and wanted to get an estimate for repair.

Apparently they now have a full time PDR guy working there. He looked at my truck and said $200 cash and he will do it right now and will be done in an hour. Being Saturday I was quite shocked but happily jumped on that offer. One hour later it was done and looks absolutely perfect. To say I was happy is an understatement. Now that’s what I call service.👍🏻

I’m amazed at the PDR work those guys do. My wife had two cars get hit really bad with hail and both looked absolutely perfect after.
 

JamRam

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Not something I give two $%^@ about. :p

It was cheaper and better to swap the TRX interior than to reupholster my existing seats. My passenger seat was originally manual. Already sold the original seats and console so the whole thing cost me less than $800. I am picking up two front TRX door panels later this week. Still working on the rear door panel options.
When does the engine and tranny swap happen?
 

JamRam

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Haha! Not something I have any plans for. But I did find out I can flash the TCM to a GT calibration and have working manual shift. May look into that down the road.


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Make sure to research any necessary brake upgrades as well.

Too often we seek out more 'go' and forget to ensure that we can stop too.
 

billfraley

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[QUOTE="JamRam, post:]Make sure to research any necessary brake upgrades as well.

Too often we seek out more 'go' and forget to ensure that we can stop too.[/QUOTE]

Don’t see that as giving any real go improvement. It would just be a manual shift capability that doesn’t currently exist in my truck. I have no need to go faster at this point in my life.


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Andrec

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Did some maintenance at 85k miles.

- Bought some BFGoodrich trail-terrain T/A's to mount and get a wheel alignment
- Cleaned out K&N filter
- Ordered new K&N cabin filter

The 2021 1500 is still on the original brake pads and rotors, and they still have some life left in them. This is the longest car I've owned that's on original pads/rotors. To be fair though, I am now going on my 3rd set of tires...
 

CalvinC

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I've always been curious. What's the extra benefit of the Obdlink MX+ ? What are you getting for $140?

I spent $32 on Amazon for both the bypass cable and a bluetooth OBD2 reader. It works perfectly with AlfaOBD and Torque.

If you want to go Bluetooth then it has to work. No dropped connections, plenty of bandwidth, no latency. A problem with either in the middle of a flash can be bad.

MX+ has been exceptionally reliable for me in this regard for a few years.

Going Bluetooth is just a preference. I don’t like cables. But if you go the cable route it saves some money.
 

HSKR R/T

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If you want to go Bluetooth then it has to work. No dropped connections, plenty of bandwidth, no latency. A problem with either in the middle of a flash can be bad.

MX+ has been exceptionally reliable for me in this regard for a few years.

Going Bluetooth is just a preference. I don’t like cables. But if you go the cable route it saves some money.
Jimmy07 has said the cheaper V-linker Bluetooth scan tool works as good as the MX+ and is half the cost.
 

Brutal_HO

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The VGate Vlinker MC+ is solid.

It's the cheaper ELM327 BT readers that are problematic. Seen plenty of reports of failed settings, etc using those $20 adapters.
 

Biggiehorn

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Spent the better half of the morning chasing down diagnostic trouble codes. Left for work this morning at 06:00 and everything seemed fine. I got about 10 minutes away from the house and a check engine light popped up on the dash. Within seconds, my headlights went out. Signature lights, low beams, high beams, markers, blinkers, everything.... I also noticed that my AC started to blow warm shortly thereafter. Knowing that warm air can often relate to increased engine operating temps, decided to check the coolant temp and it was at 251F. I pulled my scanner to check codes and found numerous DTCs for the headlamps and also PCM P0480-00 for a cooling fan control circuit malfunction.

Long story short, it was a poor connection at the N08 high current fuse located at the fuse block under the hood. N08 goes to the radiator fan. It didn't feel super loose, but it also didn't take much effort to break free with a ratcheting wrench. I wiped down the contact area, reinstalled, and then double checked a few other fuses and relays while I was in there just to make sure there weren't any "smoking guns" that jumped out as problem areas.

I'm running Retroshop's LED adapter harnesses for my OEM LED headlight conversion and per their instructions, one of the wires is installed at the N08 fuse. I installed these lights a couple years ago so it took me a few minutes to retrace my steps, but once I remembered that, it immediately explained why the headlights also went offline at the exact same time. Everything appears to be working just fine now (knocking on wood) but will drop an update if anything changes.
 

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boogielander

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Spent the better half of the morning chasing down diagnostic trouble codes. Left for work this morning at 06:00 and everything seemed fine. I got about 10 minutes away from the house and a check engine light popped up on the dash. Within seconds, my headlights went out. Signature lights, low beams, high beams, markers, blinkers, everything.... I also noticed that my AC started to blow warm shortly thereafter. Knowing that warm air can often relate to increased engine operating temps, decided to check the coolant temp and it was at 251F. I pulled my scanner to check codes and found numerous DTCs for the headlamps and also PCM P0480-00 for a cooling fan control circuit malfunction.

Long story short, it was a poor connection at the N08 high current fuse located at the fuse block under the hood. N08 goes to the radiator fan. It didn't feel super loose, but it also didn't take much effort to break free with a ratcheting wrench. I wiped down the contact area, reinstalled, and then double checked a few other fuses and relays while I was in there just to make sure there weren't any "smoking guns" that jumped out as problem areas.

I'm running Retroshop's LED adapter harnesses for my OEM LED headlight conversion and per their instructions, one of the wires is installed at the N08 fuse. I installed these lights a couple years ago so it took me a few minutes to retrace my steps, but once I remembered that, it immediately explained why the headlights also went offline at the exact same time. Everything appears to be working just fine now (knocking on wood) but will drop an update if anything changes.
dang it took all these years for this issue to show up?! good thing you remembered it lol
that'd be the last thing I'd think about given the long time between issue popped up and initial install
 

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