What did you do to your Ram today???

[Belvedere]

Thanks. It took me a couple of iterations to arrive at this setup, but I think I mostly nailed it this time.

There's another advantage to having these Anderson connections: I can temporarily disconnect the tent and hookup my air compressor. Previously, I'd have to connect the air compressor to the battery box I keep in the bed, but having an external connector should be much more convenient. (If I wanted to keep the tent connected while using the air compressor, I could build a simple Anderson Y-cable).

Nice!

Do you have your battery tied into the truck to charge?

Was thinking of doing something like that, but we may put the tent on the wife's Jeep some too. We've been looking into Jackery and EcoFlow options.

 

[jimothy]

Nice!

Do you have your battery tied into the truck to charge?

Was thinking of doing something like that, but we may put the tent on the wife's Jeep some too. We've been looking into Jackery and EcoFlow options.

No, I've got a separate battery that's currently not tied into the truck's electrical system at all. It's a box I built myself from a 24V 50Ah battery and a Front Runner Wolf Pack Pro box (which is convenient because it is the exact height to just slide under the canister for my retractable tonneau cover). Then I've got a 24V to 13.8V regulated converter, to power my 12V devices, which honestly, is everything other than my fridge, which can operator on 12V or 24V (In retrospect, a 12V battery with a 13.8V regulator would have worked just as well, and been a somewhat simpler setup).

I built my own because the commercial offerings focus mainly on AC outlets, which just low amperage DC outlets. They seem to be in an arms race of one-upping each other in number of AC outlets and AC wattage. I don't need AC, and if I do, I could either add a small inverter, or I do have a small Bluetti EB7A with up to 400W AC (or use the 400W inverter in the back seat). Plus, I've got the advantage that this fits under the tonneau canister (I actually re-did the box once, because the first box I put it in didn't fit under there).

On top of the tent, I have 350W of flexible solar panels. When we took a trip to the Rockies this past summer, they performed like a champ, easily topping off the battery each day. Around where I live (Georgia), we have a lot more trees and clouds, but for a weekend trip, this should do fine.

We are planning a fall trip up the East coast, and for that, I'm thinking about adding a DC-DC charger to help keep the battery charged, as I'm less confident the solar will be sufficient on that trip.

I've consider—and to some extent, still am considering—other setups, like a dual purpose (starter/deep cycle) battery from Antigravity and others, or relocating the aux battery to either under or behind the rear seats, but my current setup works well enough. Having the batteries inside the cab would be beneficial in hot and cold weather. LiFePO4 batteries can't be charged below 32º, but the Victron system I've got will shut off solar charging (and DC-DC, if I add that) in low temps. So my current setup is more than sufficient. I just can't stop my brain from thinking about other approaches.

In this photo, you'll see the solar charge controller (blue box, mounted to the bed), and some wires: from the tent-mounted solar panels to the charge controller, from the charge controller to a Anderson port on the side of the box, and from an Anderson port out through the front stake pocket hole to the junction box you saw on my previous photo. That last pair of wires feeds power to the tent, as well as some pod lights I added to the rack.

On the front of the battery box are two more Anderson SB50 ports. The blue on left is 24V, and I mostly use it to charge the battery with an AC-DC charger to top it off before leaving on a trip. Grey on the left is 13.8V, and before I made the changes in my last post, is where I would have connected my air compressor. Below each of the SB50 ports are Anderson Powerpole connectors; I use the 24V connectors for my fridge, and the 12V connectors are there just for the heck of it.

The LED light strip above the battery box is on the underside of the canister, and it's tied into the factory bed lights (there are also strips on each side of the bed). They are not tied to the battery box in anyway.

Long story short, I might have done things a little differently, but this works well. It was also a fun project. Systems from Jackery, Bluetti, EcoFlow, etc. would be more turn-key, but none of them offer exactly what I'm looking for.

 

[6of36]

Let it have some fun in the snow since we are finally getting enough to do it. View attachment 151938

We finally got 6" last night in mid upper Michigan. There had been nothing but cancellations of winter festivals this year. Houghton Lake, has a festival called " Tip Up Town" at the end of January, that still happened. No ice slide, no ice sculptures, no snowmobile or SxS races. The only interesting thins they had, was a dog show, and a polar bear dip. It is held at a boat launch, and the dip is in the little launch lagoon. During the dip, a spectator went through the ice in about 3 or 4 feet of water.

 

[Brunzca]

Today- tint done. Tomorrow - power run to amp so I can finish my sub install. Sun/Mon - hoping to get ceramic coating on

 

[D-dub]

Cold day here in Michigan. I know it isn't much, but installed my Husky liners 3pc. Weather Beater floor mats.

 

[Jeepdinger]

Something about the 12.5 tire being too wide for the stock rim and not being able to seal properly.

Tire manufacturers will list a min/max rim size for each tire. This will tell you what works for the tire. It's not really a matter of factory rims or not. These are usually recommendations for best performance and warranty. If you don't like rules though, I'm sure you could try whatever you want.

 

[Trooper4]

Does rim width matter for tires?

Answer (1 of 5): Yes, every given rim width has a range of tire widths that will work on it. Rims too wide/tires too skinny. You could start with the rims then pick the right tyre width or decide which tires you want then look and see which rim width is suitable.

www.quora.com

 

[familywagon]

Has anyone ever tried the carbon fiber interior parts on Ali express? Looks like real carbon by the pictures. im aware of the fake ones on Amazon, I prefer real carbon.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804953434260.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%2471.80%21%2458.88%21%21%21%21%21%402103239c16766699982575403e72e3%2112000031822648980%21btf&_t=pvid%3Afc5e1c01-8651-4e03-a11f-350d2c57626c&afTraceInfo=1005005139749012__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1676669998&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

 

[6of36]

Cold day here in Michigan. I know it isn't much, but installed my Husky liners 3pc. Weather Beater floor mats.

How the heck did you get them? Mine were ordered 10 days ago and it says order being processed. I called and they told me three week delay.

 

[Belvedere]

Taking the new tent out. Loving it so far. Met some friends with their trailer.

 

[JamRam]

Taking the new tent out. Loving it so far. Met some friends with their trailer.

View attachment 152145

While I am still shoveling my driveway!

Life is really unfair.....

 

[Belvedere]

No, I've got a separate battery that's currently not tied into the truck's electrical system at all. It's a box I built myself from a 24V 50Ah battery and a Front Runner Wolf Pack Pro box (which is convenient because it is the exact height to just slide under the canister for my retractable tonneau cover). Then I've got a 24V to 13.8V regulated converter, to power my 12V devices, which honestly, is everything other than my fridge, which can operator on 12V or 24V (In retrospect, a 12V battery with a 13.8V regulator would have worked just as well, and been a somewhat simpler setup).

I built my own because the commercial offerings focus mainly on AC outlets, which just low amperage DC outlets. They seem to be in an arms race of one-upping each other in number of AC outlets and AC wattage. I don't need AC, and if I do, I could either add a small inverter, or I do have a small Bluetti EB7A with up to 400W AC (or use the 400W inverter in the back seat). Plus, I've got the advantage that this fits under the tonneau canister (I actually re-did the box once, because the first box I put it in didn't fit under there).

On top of the tent, I have 350W of flexible solar panels. When we took a trip to the Rockies this past summer, they performed like a champ, easily topping off the battery each day. Around where I live (Georgia), we have a lot more trees and clouds, but for a weekend trip, this should do fine.

We are planning a fall trip up the East coast, and for that, I'm thinking about adding a DC-DC charger to help keep the battery charged, as I'm less confident the solar will be sufficient on that trip.

I've consider—and to some extent, still am considering—other setups, like a dual purpose (starter/deep cycle) battery from Antigravity and others, or relocating the aux battery to either under or behind the rear seats, but my current setup works well enough. Having the batteries inside the cab would be beneficial in hot and cold weather. LiFePO4 batteries can't be charged below 32º, but the Victron system I've got will shut off solar charging (and DC-DC, if I add that) in low temps. So my current setup is more than sufficient. I just can't stop my brain from thinking about other approaches.

In this photo, you'll see the solar charge controller (blue box, mounted to the bed), and some wires: from the tent-mounted solar panels to the charge controller, from the charge controller to a Anderson port on the side of the box, and from an Anderson port out through the front stake pocket hole to the junction box you saw on my previous photo. That last pair of wires feeds power to the tent, as well as some pod lights I added to the rack.

On the front of the battery box are two more Anderson SB50 ports. The blue on left is 24V, and I mostly use it to charge the battery with an AC-DC charger to top it off before leaving on a trip. Grey on the left is 13.8V, and before I made the changes in my last post, is where I would have connected my air compressor. Below each of the SB50 ports are Anderson Powerpole connectors; I use the 24V connectors for my fridge, and the 12V connectors are there just for the heck of it.

The LED light strip above the battery box is on the underside of the canister, and it's tied into the factory bed lights (there are also strips on each side of the bed). They are not tied to the battery box in anyway.

Long story short, I might have done things a little differently, but this works well. It was also a fun project. Systems from Jackery, Bluetti, EcoFlow, etc. would be more turn-key, but none of them offer exactly what I'm looking for.

View attachment 152023

Out with the tent and wife. We're just at a campground this weekend with some friends, so we have 120v power, but I think we like your idea for our setup. Going to dig more into this and try to build something before our next trip with the tent in April. Was thinking about just pulling the 12v battery off our camper for now, but a dedicated battery and maybe look more into solar for recharging.

If you don't mind I might bug you a little more about your build and specific parts.

We are still interested in the Jackery and it's AC for one of our other campers. I collect old car projects, and my wife collects campers it seems.

 

[BowDown]

Washed it and applied a coat of Tacsystem Moonlight

 

[weswoody2004]

Got some new shoes today....Michelin Defenders. Have had them on three diff cars/suvs and love them. Let's see how they are on the truck.

 

[Av1]

Installed a bed extender today. Should have done it sooner.

 

[cskindt]

I removed the air dams.
After lifting the front end, they just didn't look like they belonged there.

I have no errors, yet. I did disable the Active Air Dam present with AlfaOBD.

 

[cskindt]

I found another chip on my bumper.
I'm no pro at chip touch-ups, but silver must be one difficult color to repair seamlessly.
I used the mopar paint touch-up stick with the clear coat. The first touch-up was a real test of my patience. It sucks, but I've accepted it. While removing the air dams, I found this other one. I'm just repeating the process and living with it.

Please let me know how to make it look better for next time this happens. Apparently, sanding the final coat of metallic paint is a no-no.

New chip.


Repaired chip.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I removed the air dams.
After lifting the front end, they just didn't look like they belonged there.

I have no errors. I did disable the Active Air Dam present with AlfaOBD.

View attachment 152215
View attachment 152216 View attachment 152217 View attachment 152218 View attachment 152219 View attachment 152220 View attachment 152221

Mine has been off for two months, and today I just started popping codes for it. Will check connector to make sure it isn't filled with water

 

[6of36]

I found another chip on my bumper.
I'm no pro at chip touch-ups, but silver must be one difficult color to repair seamlessly.
I used the mopar paint touch-up stick with the clear coat. The first touch-up was a real test of my patience. It sucks, but I've accepted it. While removing the air dams, I found this other one. I'm just repeating the process and living with it.

Please let me know how to make it look better for next time this happens. Apparently, sanding the final coat of metallic paint is a no-no.

New chip.
View attachment 152222

Repaired chip.
View attachment 152223

I used to have a friend that was a painter years ago. It was long before pearls and tricoats, but at that time , silver and white were the worst.

 

[cskindt]

I used to have a friend that was a painter years ago. It was long before pearls and tricoats, but at that time , silver and white were the worst.

I can see why.
After watching many videos of on-line pros, I have the general idea. I just don't see how metallic colors can be blended to get a seamless look without just respraying the whole part. I'd rather put stickers over the chips than respray.