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What did you do to your Ram today???

Which leveling kit did you use with the Mopar lift?
 
Have been working on my Mods on and off around and a busy work and travel schedule since taking delivery of my new truck a few weeks back. Just finished the last of it today (although I think I'm going to add some additional bed lighting and another switch in the very near future). This thread has been awesome, and cost me a ton of money! Here's the full list of what I've done and a few pics:

  • Ceramic Coating (cQuartz Finest Reserve - done professionally)
  • MOPAR RamAir Cold Air Intake
  • UPR Oil Catch Can
  • Right-On Brackets For MFT
  • Retrax PowerMaxPro Bed Cover
  • BedRug Impact Bed Liner
  • LED Bed Lights behind BUG Rails (Wired to OEM Bed Light Switch)
  • Hellwig 7709 Sway Bar (best Mod of them all)
  • Putco 60” Blade Light Bar
  • WeatherTech Bug Deflector
  • Husky Mud Guards
  • BlackVue DR900X-CH Plus Dash Cam
  • Motrobe Console Organizer
  • Motrobe Glove Box Organizer
  • KYKR Screen Protector
Do you have pics of the install of the lights behind the BUG?
 
It was a busy weekend. Added Ballistic Gernades 20x10 -24mm offset with NITTO 305/55/20's. Since the wheels had a chrome B in the center with red writing, my beautiful wife made me some inserts for the center caps to match the orange. Since my last name starts with an M, she used the Metallica symbol and I think they look amazing. She also did all my overlays for me since my hands are not steady enough. Then I clear coated all the overlays. I bought all the overlays from "The Overlay Guy".
What clear coat did you use on the overlays?
 
It's a diesel with a 1/4 tank of fuel remaining and the range is 51 miles? Must have been idling a lot?
Or they’re treating the gas pedal like a light switch
 
Ordered the dash and center channel speakers today.
Infinity Reference 3032CFX
 
It will protect them from fading from the sun and also keep them from pealing off in the future.
The purpose of using vinyl is so it can be peeled in the future. Otherwise, just paint them. And any decent vinyl meant for automotive use, and properly cared for, won't fade any faster than the paint on the car.
 
The purpose of using vinyl is so it can be peeled in the future. Otherwise, just paint them. And any decent vinyl meant for automotive use, and properly cared for, won't fade any faster than the paint on the car.
This reminds me of a pic I saw somewhere of someone with double rubber floor mats :ROFLMAO:
 
The purpose of using vinyl is so it can be peeled in the future. Otherwise, just paint them. And any decent vinyl meant for automotive use, and properly cared for, won't fade any faster than the paint on the car.
In SOME use cases using vinyl is so it can be removed, but in many cases the pattern/graphic option for vinyl is dramatically more wide than that of paint... at least in terms of ease of getting it done well... example in the image below.
1651521957444.png
also as someone who in the past managed a fleet of service vehicles that were fully wrapped I can tell you that those wraps needed to be repaired/replaced about every 2 years from road debrise, etc. The damage mostly occured in the lower quarter panels and front of the vehicles which in this example.. right on the grill, would take a beating from rocks, bugs, etc.
 
The purpose of using vinyl is so it can be peeled in the future. Otherwise, just paint them. And any decent vinyl meant for automotive use, and properly cared for, won't fade any faster than the paint on the car.
It doesn't matter how good the vinyl is. it the Texas heat and weekly car washes it will start to curl up and I really don't want to be dealing with it in a few months.
 
In SOME use cases using vinyl is so it can be removed, but in many cases the pattern/graphic option for vinyl is dramatically more wide than that of paint... at least in terms of ease of getting it done well... example in the image below.
View attachment 128413
also as someone who in the past managed a fleet of service vehicles that were fully wrapped I can tell you that those wraps needed to be repaired/replaced about every 2 years from road debrise, etc. The damage mostly occured in the lower quarter panels and front of the vehicles which in this example.. right on the grill, would take a beating from rocks, bugs, etc.
It would take a beating even if clear coated, and adding a clear coat would make replacing/repairing that much harder.
 
Do you have pics of the install of the lights behind the BUG?

Sorry, I didn't take a pic before reinstalling the BUG rails, but here's how I did the install and tap. . . Got 24" 12v LED light strips from Amazon and daisy chained them to run in two rows on each rail (one above and one below the opening that runs down the center of the back of each rail) and two rows on the back of the ReTrax canister at the top of the bed. I tapped the power source from the back of the OEM bed light on the driver's side of the bed at the tailgate. It's a simple tap. If you pull the bed light (the one with the switch built in) there are two wire harness connections coming in, one for the light and one for the switch. The top one is the source for the light and has a simple/standard red(+) and black(-) 2-wire setup. Tapped that set for the LEDs and the lights come on and off automatically with the OEM setup and also work with all the OEM switches. The wires are all hidden in combination of behind the BedRug liner and through the center opening on the back of the BUG rails.

As a secondary install I'm planning to put another run of two strips each up under the bed sides for more down lighting and put a secondary switch in between the OEM light and all my LED installs. That way I will have the choice of having them all on with the automatic OEM lighting or just the base OEM lights, but all powered from the same source.
 

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