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What did you do to your Ram today???

Good stuff. Much more detail than I remember from my engineering classes, and I was lazy and didn't bring the math into it. To add a little to what you're saying. Force = pressure X area or Pressure = F/A. so if your tires air pressure is constant then as the truck weight increases the contact area increases proportionally to satisfy the pressure equation. Now you can think of hydroplaning as the water has to cause an opposite force strong enough to separate the tire from the road. For a given situation, the tire pressure and contact area are constant and you basically have the air pressure working against the water pressure on road. water pressure will increase with speed. Therefore, the higher you run the air pressure the more force the water has to create to 'lift' the tire off the ground. Effectively improving your truck's resistance to hydroplaning. Or increasing the speed at which hydroplaning will occur (higher speed equals higher water pressure acting on tire). Higher air pressure won't stop hydroplaning, but it will improve resistance to it. Newer tires with full tread depth are of course better than worn tires. No matter what, the tire should be working to remove water from between the tire and road. I think it's safe to say that a tire at 65psi will 'push' the water out of the way better than a tire at 35 psi because it is applying more force to the water. I do not advocate running bald tires just because of the air pressure comments here. Run good rain tires, and if you are really worried about hydroplaning bump up those pressures a bit. Most 'comfort' tires can run 40 psi without issue. Heavy truck tires (LT and whatnot) can go much higher with their sidewalls designed for high loads. Higher tire pressures also have the benefit of reduced rolling resistance (better mpg), but you may lose contact patch (cornering ability). But you shouldn't be worried about that unless you're in your sports car.
I think tread design and the ability to shed water via water displacement would also be a key factor in the equation.
 
I am thinking about AlfaOBD, actually. Maybe get the OBDLink MX+. We'll see.
That’s what I did. Don’t forget about the Security Bypass Module. You’ll need that. I just left my SBM plugged into the panel and tucked it up under the dash for quick access when I want it.
 
14.8 is pretty low for a 58/42 split of highway/city, but until you calibrate your speedo your numbers are going to be artificially low.

What's the speed limit on the highway?
That’s pen and paper method, and I’m ignoring what the truck says. The percentage is actually more like 70/30 Highway/city. i’m usually at 68 to 70 mph on the highway because I have 3.92 gears, and that keeps the RPMs right under 2000.
 
I did the Amazon 3 today before the rain started. They are bolt/tape on, it took 2 hours, no gotchas. The cool thing was, the 3 parts at cost would have been $243, I bought them from the like new pile, and the total was $60, $12 for the aeroskin , $24 for the vent visors, and $24 for the mudguards. The only thing missing from the 3 parts were the alcohol pads for the visors. LatersView attachment 109834
What window visors did you get?
 
Just got my alignment done with my dad‘s new laser alignment machine. I was surprised when he said it cost $54,000, but was amazed with the speed that the alignment tech got it done in. The alignment tech recommended that we set the alignment for a rebel to prevent the common shimmy that happens with lifted trucks. Apparently, the caster is set farther forward on the rebels and that takes care of the problems. Here’s some pics from the alignment.

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Tread depth is probably the most important factor.

This is interesting reading (or a cure for insomnia ;) ): https://www.researchgate.net/public...Patterns_in_Reducing_the_Risk_of_Hydroplaning
for a pure discussion of hydroplaning yes. and when comparing different tires, yes, the tread depth and design are most important for how the tire tread is able to evacuate water from between the road and vehicle to improve resistance to hydroplaning. The previous discussion was purely for how tire air pressure was related to hydroplaning. Which for the same truck, on the same tire (tread, wear, etc), on the same road, where the only variable is the presence of water versus dry. then you can link the tire air pressure to the counteracting water pressure. In that situation the only variable becomes the water pressure caused by water depth (variable) and vehicle speed (variable). higher tire air pressure will increase water pressure needed to separate tire from road surface. The higher the water pressure needed to separate tire from road, the higher the speed or water depth needed to create said water pressure. AKA, more resistance to hydroplaning. I like to think in general principles and don't like beating people up with equations, but that is also useful at times.

Comparing different tires brings many more details into consideration. tread height reduces over time reducing the area (2D cross section) of channel between tread blocks to evacuate water. I have seen some new tires claim that the tread channels are wider at base than at the top so that as the tire wears the channel volume remains 'more' constant over time. I'm not sure how accurate that will be, but it's a good thought. A good tread design will allow the water to flow out from the center of the tire reducing the buildup of the 'water pressure' under the tire, thereby increasing the speed at which hydroplaning occurs or making 'normal' driving speeds safer. That's probably a subject that would need it's own thread.
 
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Just got my alignment done with my dad‘s new laser alignment machine. I was surprised when he said it cost $54,000, but was amazed with the speed that the alignment tech got it done in. The alignment tech recommended that we set the alignment for a rebel to prevent the common shimmy that happens with lifted trucks. Apparently, the caster is set farther forward on the rebels and that takes care of the problems. Here’s some pics from the alignment.

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I'm curious with this system why the down arrows on diagrams for the front L/R are in different locations when the values are the same. It looks like the L/R settings are not mirrored based on small numbers in the green boxes, which is odd.

I love seeing these diagrams cause it lets you know if the technician took the time to dial in the vehicle to the center values. I've seen some where they just get it into the recommended window, but don't bother to try centering it. Awesome job here.
 
I'm curious with this system why the down arrows on diagrams for the front L/R are in different locations when the values are the same. It looks like the L/R settings are not mirrored based on small numbers in the green boxes, which is odd.

I love seeing these diagrams cause it lets you know if the technician took the time to dial in the vehicle to the center values. I've seen some where they just get it into the recommended window, but don't bother to try centering it. Awesome job here.
I can’t answer that because it’s been so long since I’ve done alignments and I don’t remember. I’ll ask the next time I talk to them.
 
@ferraiolo1 this last tank using pen and paper is much worse than I thought it would be, and I still babied it for this whole tank. The middle number is the last tank. I do the same 30 mile route each day and don’t deviate much, so the drive is pretty similar every day.

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I'm not remotely a gas expert, but is there a seasonal blend that's now being delivered? Same gas stations?

The thing that really bothers me is the sticker, which said 17 city, 22 highway. Not only can I not average 22 on the highway, I can't even get close to 17 on the highway. If I can get the truck into eco mode on a flat straight stretch, maybe it'll hold at 18-21, but it's temporary. And that's *indicated*! I've found by tank calculation that it's about 10% optimistic.

Ram's EPA numbers are egregiously erroneous. You'd think after 20 years of engine technology evolution that I'd be able to do better than my 2001 4.7L Dodge Dakota. Sure, the Ram's is a bigger engine and a heavier car, but it's still supposed to be wildly improved after all this time.
 
Leave it in its stock form, and be Easy in the right pedal and the numbers are damn close to what ram estimates.

And yes it’s winter blend time for most states which decreases efficiency


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Leave it in its stock form, and be Easy in the right pedal and the numbers are damn close to what ram estimates.

And yes it’s winter blend time for most states which decreases efficiency


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree about the right pedal but even with a lift and bigger tires, I'm still able to get close to the EPA numbers.
 
Just got my alignment done with my dad‘s new laser alignment machine. I was surprised when he said it cost $54,000, but was amazed with the speed that the alignment tech got it done in. The alignment tech recommended that we set the alignment for a rebel to prevent the common shimmy that happens with lifted trucks. Apparently, the caster is set farther forward on the rebels and that takes care of the problems. Here’s some pics from the alignment.

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I’m in Maryland. I’ll come see the shop once I’m lifted and need that alignment!!
 
Installed some visors that The wife got me for my BD.

Was wondering what the bend is for. Both windows have it.

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I’m in Maryland. I’ll come see the shop once I’m lifted and need that alignment!!
No problem, let me know and I’ll tell them about you. My dad asked me to help him out part time, so there’s a chance I’ll be there also.
 
I agree about the right pedal but even with a lift and bigger tires, I'm still able to get close to the EPA numbers.
I definitely envy that. I don’t know why my drop was so drastic. My wheels and tires are a total of 83lbs each, but I’m guessing the high rolling resistance is the biggest part of the equation. I bet the tires sticking out from the sides probably has an effect also.

I was just talking to the head manager at the family business about how I kind of wish I got a diesel for that gas mileage. He instantly said “it’s good and bad” and then went into the $13k he’s spent on two of his personal diesel trucks in the last 3 months and 3 others that were all in the shop for injection pumps. Coming from a guy who’s spent his entire life immersed in diesels, it caused me to pause a little and not be so hard on the hemi.
 
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I definitely envy that. I don’t know why my drop was so drastic. My wheels and tires are a total of 83lbs each, but I’m guessing the high rolling resistance is the biggest part of the equation. I bet the tires sticking out from the sides probably has an effect also.
Mine are -12 so not much different than yours. I bet you gain 1-1.5 mpg when you calibrate your speedo.
 
Installed some visors that The wife got me for my BD.

Was wondering what the bend is for. Both windows have it.

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Probably for when you fold the windows in.


2019 Ram 1500 ORP “long bed” - setting #5 bilsteins, 2”mopar ucas, hellwig sway bar, tonneau cover, bed mat, 20” Laramie sport wheels on 285/60r20 falkens. Flowmaster outlaw.
 
Mine are -12 so not much different than yours. I bet you gain 1-1.5 mpg when you calibrate your speedo.
I’m still not understanding that when everything I’m talking about is from using mileage and the gallons I’ve used on paper. Really, it’s in Fuelly but it’s still the same thing as the paper method. This whole time, I’ve been ignoring the gas mileage estimator that the truck has.
 

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