WARNING: FCA will void your warranty if you do this.

[msherwood87]

So I just bought my 2021 Ram 1500 Big Horn night edition on 11/10/2020. I took it in on 11/25 with some electrical issues consisting of a battery drain and inoperable headlamp switch. I had installed an aftermarket radar detector using a fuse jumper and a kit from the radar detector manufacturer. I connected it to fuse F66 under the steering wheel. This fuse is marked as "Run - Accessory Fuse" meant it turns on in ACC mode and off after a short delay when mode is OFF. My truck's instrument cluster was constantly turning on and off causing the battery drain but the source of this has yet to be found. On 12/9, I received the following portion of a message from the dealer's service director. "Also I was informed that after your conversation with Danielle [FCA rep] she has informed me that all repairs, diagnostics and parts will not be covered due to the installation of an aftermarket radar detector wired into the factory electrical system." This was all of the justification I received. Earlier, on 12/4, I received a note from this same person that they hadn't informed FCA of the aftermarket accessory because they would just deny warranty immediately upon this information. Let me tell you, there is no way this caused the problem. The radar detector and the relay circuit continued to operate as normal. They are replacing the BCM but they admitted they aren't sure that's the issue. This is in violation of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act; however, you will have to take it up in litigation.

BUYERS BEWARE. From what I was told, if you connect anything to the electrical system (which is anything powered in your truck, light bars, brake controllers, etc.), they will deny warranty. It really just happened to me on a truck that just turned 1 month old, and is going to be in the service center for likely 45 consecutive days.

 

[Sam_The_RAM_Man]

It is pulling too much power off that fuse because it is not designed for that. I'm not sure why you don't just plug it into the 12V outlet as it is designed for use with the standard "cigarette lighter" style plug and a maximum power of 160 Watts/13 Amps. The 115V power inverter would be my second choice of plugging it as it will power up to 400 Watts and has a fail-safe where it shuts down if the power rating is exceeded.

From the Owner's Manual:
This 12V auxiliary power outlet can be found in the tray on top of the center stack. This power outlet only works when the ignition is in the ON/RUN or ACC position. When the vehicle is turned off, be sure to unplug any equipment as to not drain the battery of the vehicle. All accessories connected to the outlet(s) should be removed or turned off when the vehicle is not in use to protect the battery against discharge. Accessories that draw higher power (i.e. coolers, vacuum cleaners, lights, etc.), will discharge the battery even more quickly. Only use these intermittently and with greater caution.

A 115 Volt (400 Watts Maximum) inverter may be located inside the center console towards the right hand side. This inverter can power cellular phones, electronics and other low power devices requiring power up to 400 Watts. All power inverters are designed with built-in overload protection. If the power rating of 400 Watts is exceeded, the power inverter shuts down. Once the electrical device has been removed from the outlet the inverter should reset. If three outlets are in use, 400 Watts is shared amongst the devices plugged in. The power inverter only turns on if the ignition is in the ACC or ON/RUN position.

Additionally, fuse F66 isn't designed for running auxiliary equipment off of. It is designed for the "accessory mode". With mistakes like that, to me it shouldn't be covered under warranty. There are ways around it for sure to get it covered under warranty, but you have to go around certain things. I personally would have contacted the dealership I purchased from or an electrician before wiring into a fuse bank. With my limited electrical understanding, I think you could have wired into the upfitter or auxiliary switch fuses and it wouldn't have been an issue. Not 100% sure that it will work.

Internal Power Distribution Center - located under the drivers side instrument panel

• F55 UPFITTER

External Power Distribution Center - located in the engine compartment near the battery

• F06 OUTPUT TO UPFITTER PDC
• F42 AUX SWITCH #5
• F50 AUX SWITCH #6

 

[securityguy]

It is pulling too much power off that fuse because it is not designed for that. I'm not sure why you don't just plug it into the 12V outlet as it is designed for use with the standard "cigarette lighter" style plug and a maximum power of 160 Watts/13 Amps. The 115V power inverter would be my second choice of plugging it as it will power up to 400 Watts and has a fail-safe where it shuts down if the power rating is exceeded.

Sam...I have to disagree BIG time with you here my friend. As an EE, and an avid electronics installer, a radar detector typically draws less than 1A. To do a fuse tap of a fuse circuit that is rated at 10+ amps, based on which fuses you use, is negligible and will have ZERO impact on that circuit. Using the cigarette lighter plug is outdated as most all people today want the cord hidden, and even attempting to use a 115V inverter for this type of scenario is just a very poor recommendation IMPO.

I did this exact same setup in my 2019 with both a radar detector AND a Dash Cam...zero issues in 2 years. His issue has ZERO to do with his install of his radar detector.

 

[msherwood87]

Sam...I have to disagree BIG time with you here my friend. As an EE, and an avid electronics installer, a radar detector typically draws less than 1A. To do a fuse tap of a fuse circuit that is rated at 10+ amps, based on which fuses you use, is negligible and will have ZERO impact on that circuit. Using the cigarette lighter plug is outdated as most all people today want the cord hidden, and even attempting to use a 115V inverter for this type of scenario is just a very poor recommendation IMPO.

I did this exact same setup in my 2019 with both a radar detector AND a Dash Cam...zero issues in 2 years. His issue has ZERO to do with his install of his radar detector.

I agree. I had this same exact setup in my f150 for 2 years no issues. I'm going to contact the radar manufacturer to get the actual amperage of the device, but it's probably next to nothing. I guess it'll be up to the arbitrators to sort this out... and the state AG office.

 

[Bram2019]

So I just bought my 2021 Ram 1500 Big Horn night edition on 11/10/2020. I took it in on 11/25 with some electrical issues consisting of a battery drain and inoperable headlamp switch. I had installed an aftermarket radar detector using a fuse jumper and a kit from the radar detector manufacturer. I connected it to fuse F66 under the steering wheel. This fuse is marked as "Run - Accessory Fuse" meant it turns on in ACC mode and off after a short delay when mode is OFF. My truck's instrument cluster was constantly turning on and off causing the battery drain but the source of this has yet to be found. On 12/9, I received the following portion of a message from the dealer's service director. "Also I was informed that after your conversation with Danielle [FCA rep] she has informed me that all repairs, diagnostics and parts will not be covered due to the installation of an aftermarket radar detector wired into the factory electrical system." This was all of the justification I received. Earlier, on 12/4, I received a note from this same person that they hadn't informed FCA of the aftermarket accessory because they would just deny warranty immediately upon this information. Let me tell you, there is no way this caused the problem. The radar detector and the relay circuit continued to operate as normal. They are replacing the BCM but they admitted they aren't sure that's the issue. This is in violation of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act; however, you will have to take it up in litigation.

BUYERS BEWARE. From what I was told, if you connect anything to the electrical system (which is anything powered in your truck, light bars, brake controllers, etc.), they will deny warranty. It really just happened to me on a truck that just turned 1 month old, and is going to be in the service center for likely 45 consecutive days.

The techs there are clueless. The reason your cluster is turning on and off is because a module is not properly going to sleep. This can be incredibly hard to figure out. This has nothing to do with you connecting to fuse F66. But using a fuse jumper is a terrible way to connect to an electrical connection on a modern vehicle. The proper way to do this is to solder a wire directly or install the proper pin to pin 9 of the C1 circuit of that pdc and solder that in. That pin directly connects to the F66 fuse. That eliminates the possibility of corrosion or arcing causing a potential high draw. Now do most people do this? Of course not. But a good tech always does.

 

[HSKR R/T]

The techs there are clueless. The reason your cluster is turning on and off is because a module is not properly going to sleep. This can be incredibly hard to figure out. This has nothing to do with you connecting to fuse F66. But using a fuse jumper is a terrible way to connect to an electrical connection on a modern vehicle. The proper way to do this is to solder a wire directly or install the proper pin to pin 9 of the C1 circuit of that pdc and solder that in. That pin directly connects to the F66 fuse. That eliminates the possibility of corrosion or arcing causing a potential high draw. Now do most people do this? Of course not. But a good tech always does.

You really want to cause them to void your warranty, start cutting the factory wiring and soldering your own wires on. A fuse tap, or add a circuit, whatever you want to call it, is a perfectly fine way to tap for power ina fuse box. While I agree solder connections are the best option, I sure a hell wouldn't be cutting and soldering to the factory wiring while still under warranty.

 

[Bram2019]

You really want to cause them to void your warranty, start cutting the factory wiring and soldering your own wires on. A fuse tap, or add a circuit, whatever you want to call it, is a perfectly fine way to tap for power ina fuse box. While I agree solder connections are the best option, I sure a hell wouldn't be cutting and soldering to the factory wiring while still under warranty.

I never said to cut and solder anything to the factory wiring. I said to solder a pin to a wire and install it in pin 9 of the C1 connector. This connection is direct to the same power relay circuit as the power outlet. It is a blank unused socket which is fused by the F66 fuse. Ask any electrical engineer what they think of a power tap on a modern Can bus vehicle. There is one commenting on this thread. I can tell you any chance of arc or corrosion will drive a can bus vehicle crazy as it depends on multiplex resistance circuits. Again will it work. yes in most cases. But if a tech sees it, it raises an immediate red flag and makes him wonder if there is a potential connection to a problem he is trying to isolate. The lazy ones will just blame that.

 

[securityguy]

I never said to cut and solder anything to the factory wiring. I said to solder a pin to a wire and install it in pin 9 of the C1 connector. This connection is direct to the same power relay circuit as the power outlet. It is a blank unused socket which is fused by the F66 fuse. Ask any electrical engineer what they think of a power tap on a modern Can bus vehicle. There is one commenting on this thread. I can tell you any chance of arc or corrosion will drive a can bus vehicle crazy as it depends on multiplex resistance circuits. Again will it work. yes in most cases. But if a tech sees it, it raises an immediate red flag and makes him wonder if there is a potential connection to a problem he is trying to isolate. The lazy ones will just blame that.

Never in my life have I experienced a problem using a fuse tap. I solder all wires to the fuse tap and heat shrink them. Been doing this since fuse taps were invented.

 

[baccigalup]

Silly question for you. I just got my truck this week.When i bought my truck and drove it home the instrument cluster and 12 inch screen went dark on me three times while driving but the radio continued to play. Then it would come on again. i called the dealer while on the road and he was advising me to check the fusebank and make sure the fuse was seated properly as it could possible be loose...i was driving home to a 3 hour trip and couldnt do that...on the last time it happened i noticed it was still light ever so dimly and looked completely dark....i found the dimmer panel and turned it bright to dark and left it in the middle position.and its been fine. .i am still reading the book but it seems there is a timer button for the cluster to turn off..either i was set to that timer or close to it...have you checked that?

 

[securityguy]

Never heard of a "timer button"??? No "timers" should activate while the truck is running...only after the truck is shut off.

 

[baccigalup]

Then what are these

 

[securityguy]

Then what are these

Not timer buttons. Here is your answer...all in the manual My understanding is that pic of your 12" headunit only applies to the Uconnect screen...not your dashboard. Never played with the setting but I'll turn it on and see what happens. Is this still occurring even when you have that setting on OFF?

 

[Jet55]

Ironically I read this thread while in the parking lot of my audio installer waiting to have my radar hardwired. While he was working I mentioned this thread and he said, "you already have something aftermarket installed." I wonder why its ok for a dealer to hardwire a tracker but not a radar.

 

[securityguy]

Never mind testing this...found this: Only applies to the headunit.

 

[securityguy]

Ironically I read this thread while in the parking lot of my audio installer waiting to have my radar hardwired. While he was working I mentioned this thread and he said, "you already have something aftermarket installed." I wonder why its ok for a dealer to hardwire a tracker but not a radar.

Because the Dealer's are FULL OF **** and have no idea what they are talking about

 

[baccigalup]

Not timer buttons. Here is your answer...all in the manual My understanding is that pic of your 12" headunit only applies to the Uconnect screen...not your dashboard. Never played with the setting but I'll turn it on and see what happens. Is this still occurring even when you have that setting on OFF?

View attachment 76437

I turned the setting off and lowered the dial down a notch not to have the timer square button setting set...ill try and expiriment a bit and see what it does...but that dial contols the entire instrument backlight which is what kept going off on me until i futzed with it....there nothing in the manual that explains that timer setting on the knob directly that i can find.. the dimmer section just points you to the setting on the display to turnnit on or off...nothing about the dial aetting

 

[securityguy]

I turned the setting off and lowered the dial down a notch not to have the timer square button setting set...ill try and expiriment a bit and see what it does...but that dial contols the entire instrument backlight which is what kept going off on me until i futzed with it....there nothing in the manual that explains that timer setting on the knob directly that i can find.. the dimmer section just points you to the setting on the display to turn it on or off...nothing about the dial aetting

There is NO timer function associated with those knobs...that's what I am trying to tell you.

 

[Laramie6x6]

You are right about the law saying after market mods does not void warranty. You can’t sue though because most likely you signed an arbitration agreement when buying the vehicle. So go to the arbitrator and let the process work itself out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JRR33]

Ironically I read this thread while in the parking lot of my audio installer waiting to have my radar hardwired. While he was working I mentioned this thread and he said, "you already have something aftermarket installed." I wonder why its ok for a dealer to hardwire a tracker but not a radar.

Where was this located??

 

[baccigalup]

There is NO timer function associated with those knobs...that's what I am trying to tell you.

Understood...doesnt negate there is a timer for the display and evetything went off at the same time and came back on when i moved that control...ill putz with it as i drive and see if it is the cause or if its a true short