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WARNING: FCA will void your warranty if you do this.

Understood...doesn't negate there is a timer for the display and eveything went off at the same time and came back on when i moved that control...ill putz with it as i drive and see if it is the cause or if its a true short
Maybe a faulty control or a bad BCM? Let the dealer continue to troubleshoot it as you clearly have something going on, but a "timer" it is not.
 
Understood...doesnt negate there is a timer for the display and evetything went off at the same time and came back on when i moved that control...ill putz with it as i drive and see if it is the cause or if its a true short
Could it have been the auto lights coming on and flipping the interior lights to their dimmer setting for night driving? Were you going through a overpass, under a dark cloud, wipers on? I’ve noticed that mine can change pretty drastically depending on the setting.
 
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Could it have been the auto lights coming on and flipping the interior lights to their dimmer setting for night driving? We’re you going through a overpass, under a dark cloud, wipers on? I’ve noticed that mine can change pretty drastically depending on the setting.
Interesting point, and I also believe there is a sensitivity setting that can be programmed for LOW - MED - HIGH (I think...haven't looked in quite sometime). If it's happening during a sunny day...maybe it's a bad ambient light sensor on the top of the dash???
 
Sounds like you screwed with the electrical system and RAM is trying to call you out on it. I don't see how the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act would even apply. I'm sure that's how the dealer is seeing it.
 
Sounds like you screwed with the electrical system and RAM is trying to call you out on it. I don't see how the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act would even apply. I'm sure that's how the dealer is seeing it.
Are you serious??? The guy installed a RADAR DETECTOR like thousands of others like me using the exact same fuses and zero issue. This is not the problem!
 
Then what are these
This is the controls screen-
ItcrTS6.jpg

This setting you have pictured will keep the controls screen indefinitely up when called for, or automatically close the controls screen when not in use-
R7mNCmE.jpg
 
I had electrical issues with my 2019 Limited. Entire head unit replaced one, some big silver box behind the 12" display that a bunch of wires plug into a second time and continued having issues like the GPS not being in sync with my location and the backup camera staying on for an entire 40 minute trip. The service department in collusion with the ?Star team? made me remove my radar detector and Dashcam that were both hardwired the truck. Not only unplug but had to remove all the wiring.

The problems continued and I should be picking up my Lemon replacement hopefully before the holidays.
 
I had electrical issues with my 2019 Limited. Entire head unit replaced one, some big silver box behind the 12" display that a bunch of wires plug into a second time and continued having issues like the GPS not being in sync with my location and the backup camera staying on for an entire 40 minute trip. The service department in collusion with the ?Star team? made me remove my radar detector and Dashcam that were both hardwired the truck. Not only unplug but had to remove all the wiring.

The problems continued and I should be picking up my Lemon replacement hopefully before the holidays.
That big silver box behind the screen is your radio. Dealers may be good, or OK, with mechanical items. However, throw in an electrical issue and it blows their mind:oops: Most dealers have no idea how to troubleshoot anything electrical and will blame anything aftermarket they see to shift the blame back to the customer. Just a bunch of morons IMPO. You would not believe the arguments I have with stupid people that know nothing about electronics.....
 
I never said to cut and solder anything to the factory wiring. I said to solder a pin to a wire and install it in pin 9 of the C1 connector. This connection is direct to the same power relay circuit as the power outlet. It is a blank unused socket which is fused by the F66 fuse. Ask any electrical engineer what they think of a power tap on a modern Can bus vehicle. There is one commenting on this thread. I can tell you any chance of arc or corrosion will drive a can bus vehicle crazy as it depends on multiplex resistance circuits. Again will it work. yes in most cases. But if a tech sees it, it raises an immediate red flag and makes him wonder if there is a potential connection to a problem he is trying to isolate. The lazy ones will just blame that.
Okay, I misread your last post
 
Perhaps your dimmer switch is bad. Think of it this way. When you turn the radio knob up the volume goes up as the resistance goes down. The potentiometer inside the switch might have a loose connection thus the dimming or cutting completely off until you turn the switch to a section where it makes a good contact.
Think of Ohms Law. 1608087277958.jpeg
 
The magic cure for BS like this is to ask for it ( the denial and reason ) in writing.
 

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