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Utility Bed Rails Install

Would it be smart of me to install the bed rails before I have lineX sprayed in?
 
That might work

line-x would have to do some taping off, not sure if that would cost more.

but also not sure if installing the rails first is going to make it any easier. Maybe someone that installed but has not sprayed can say how the install goes. Might require a rivnut kit no matter what.
 
Would it be smart of me to install the bed rails before I have lineX sprayed in?
I have not done the line x, but have done the bed rails. People have installed the bed rails after the line x with some degree of difficulty. The line x will add thickness to where the rivnuts are installed which may make it difficult to get a bite when installing the rivnuts and the line x needs to be reamed out from the hexagonal rivnut holes. I think installing the rivnuts first and talk to line x as far as what needs to be done to be able to install the rails. Perhaps an appropriate number of screws or bolts with washers that could be removed after the line x.
Best of luck, keep us posted if you proceed.
 
Would it be smart of me to install the bed rails before I have lineX sprayed in?
Yup, the riv-nuts are difficult enough to install without the liner. Just put them in and use a slotted head machine screw to prevent the liner from getting in the riv-nut. I recommend the slotted head as it would be the easiest to cut the slot back in and remove after the liner was applied. I would think masking would a bear with the small area of the riv-nut although you could stuff plastic wrap into the nut. I'd still use the machine screws IIWM.
Just cut around the screw head with a sharp blade and take them out.
 
Yup, the riv-nuts are difficult enough to install without the liner. Just put them in and use a slotted head machine screw to prevent the liner from getting in the riv-nut. I recommend the slotted head as it would be the easiest to cut the slot back in and remove after the liner was applied. I would think masking would a bear with the small area of the riv-nut although you could stuff plastic wrap into the nut. I'd still use the machine screws IIWM.
Just cut around the screw head with a sharp blade and take them out.
Copy. Now when you say slotted machine screw, do you just mean a flat head machine screw versus a Phillips?
 
Copy. Now when you say slotted machine screw, do you just mean a flat head machine screw versus a Phillips?
If you can find them with a slot for a flat blade screw driver I would think they would be the easiest to clean out so you can back them out.If you get them longer than needed, in a pinch you could get to the back side to start them turning after you cut around the coating as a metric slot head could be difficult to find. You could also cut a slot in any style head with a hacksaw.
 
Hey there,

Fedex just delivered a present - the Bed Utility Rails I ordered. I'm about to start the install, and want to make sure I'm not making this harder on myself than it needs to be.

They mount to existing holes in the bed walls, using M6 nutserts and corresponding bolts. The Mopar instructions suck (see picture attached), and seemingly show that you put the nutserts in and expand them by running the bolt in 4 times, to a torque of 10Nm. That would be a glorious idea, if you could actually do that, but as soon as you start to get the torqued down, they start spinning in the hole.

Am I missing something in these instructions, or am I going to just have to bite the bullet and pick up a nutsert tool such as this one:

View attachment 23960
Hi, do you have the parts numbers of the insert (D) like show there?
 
Does any one have a recommendation on stainless steel vs regular steel for the nutserts? I obviously want them to be as strong as possible (steel), but they will definitely get wet and have the potential for rust (so stainless). Not sure what to order and looking for advice.
 

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