Truck stuck in ACC mode when turning off.

[Newbe2Ram]

Bad power button.

Really! How confident are you? I'll order one today if you have a high confidence level.

 

[Darksteel165]

Really! How confident are you? I'll order one today if you have a high confidence level.

No idea, but I have seen people report the same problem. Something with the button using voltage when it should not be.
Your first permanent code also says ignition switch, which is the button.
Looks like it's under $40.

 

[Newbe2Ram]

I ordered one, fingers crossed. Does anyone have any other thoughts?

 

[Newbe2Ram]

For anyone interested in a conclusion. I had my battery unplugged for a few days and i needed to move my truck, so I did and when I turned it off, everything worked properly. SOOOOO, I do not have a reason this happened.

 

[Newbe2Ram]

OK... the problem is still there, came back yesterday. I installed a new start/stop button, this did not fix the problem. Any other suggestions?

 

[kapinallinen2]

OK... the problem is still there, came back yesterday. I installed a new start/stop button, this did not fix the problem. Any other suggestions?

P2535 comes back as a Hybrid Control Processor Module, ignition switch run/start position circuit high.


"When Monitored and Set Conditions

When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following condition are met:

Ignition on.

The module is awake.

The Body Control Module (BCM) CAN message indicates that the ignition switch status is in the OFF/ACC position.

Set Conditions:

The Hybrid Control Processor (HCP) has detected that the Fused RUN/START circuit is open or shorted to voltage.

Default Actions:

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on.

Possible Causes

OPEN RUN/START FUSE

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT OPEN

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE

MOTOR GENERATOR UNIT (MGU)


Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/Standard Procedure) "

I would recommend a multi-meter, OBDlink MX+, SGW bypass cable, alfaOBD and a subsciption to ALLDataDIY if you are going to dig into this.

 

[RamLtd19]

P2535 comes back as a Hybrid Control Processor Module, ignition switch run/start position circuit high.


"When Monitored and Set Conditions

When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following condition are met:

Ignition on.

The module is awake.

The Body Control Module (BCM) CAN message indicates that the ignition switch status is in the OFF/ACC position.

Set Conditions:

The Hybrid Control Processor (HCP) has detected that the Fused RUN/START circuit is open or shorted to voltage.

Default Actions:

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on.

Possible Causes

OPEN RUN/START FUSE

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT OPEN

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND

FUSED IGNITION RUN/START CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE

MOTOR GENERATOR UNIT (MGU)


Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/Standard Procedure) "

I would recommend a multi-meter, OBDlink MX+, SGW bypass cable, alfaOBD and a subsciption to ALLDataDIY if you are going to dig into this.

Any solution to your problem? I’m experiencing the same thing.

 

[ayyidk]

this happens with my truck but after like 2-3 minutes it turns off, the radio and gauges are what stay on btw. i checked in the radio settings for the delay and they’re at 30-50 seconds each so it shouldn’t be staying on beyond that it happened after the truck was used to jumpstart another suv. not really a huge issue

 

[1ramrunner]

This is now happening for the 4th time on my 2009. The first time, I was in a parking lot and couldn't figure out why my radio and dash lights were still on after removing the key. I put the key back in and jiggled the floor shifter and after a few tries it corrected itself.
It happened again sometime later and this time I was able to use my spare fob and everything worked.
The 3rd time was just before my 5 year warranty check up and the dealer guy said my fob needed a new battery. I told him they were just replaced. When they brought my truck back from service to pick up, he left the door open and walked the keys to me in the waiting room and my panic alarm went off. I hit the panic button and everything went back to normal.
The 4th time was this weekend. I have tried everything like pulling fuses, changing batteries, moving the shifter, slamming all the doors, and the problem is still there. The remote that gave me the problem will still operate the truck, but with the key removed, dash lights and radio stay on. The lock, unlock, and panic buttons do not work. I grabbed the other fob, the truck can be driven, the lock, unlock, and panic buttons work, but the dash lights and radio stay on.
I even switched the batteries between the fobs, put the in Faraday pouches, and walked far far away from the truck. Locked it with the fob that will and opened the door with the key which should trigger the factory alarm and nothing.
I went and purchased a battery dis connector so I can just spin the dial to disconnect with a 10 mm all the time.

I can tell you, there is noise coming from behind the HVAC and radio areas when the key is taken out. Not sure what is running, I have messed with the controls on HVAC and nothing.
I have spent most of today going in and out tested whatever I find on the internet.
I even tried to reprogram the fob.
I don't think it's the switch because why would one work and not the other, but it things the one is still in there.
If you have any more ideas of what I should try, please share.