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Thoughts on set up 7,500 gvwr trailer

Is this reasonably doable?

  • Yes

    Votes: 7 77.8%
  • No

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • Buy a 3500 Cummins HO dully 😂

    Votes: 1 11.1%

  • Total voters
    9

Cr250Ram

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Truck 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 3.21 CCSB
Steer axle: 3900
Drive axel: 4100
GVWR: 7,100
GCWR: 13,900
Trailer 2020 Springdale 260TBWE
GVWR: 7,525
Advertised hitch: 525
Water full is 500 (451 trailer 50 hitch)

I have a WD hitch
I went by Cat scales after picking up trailer. Trailer was dry with full propane and batteries and WDH. I got the following readings (with me in truck);
Steer axle: 3420
Drive axel: 3160
(Veh weight: 6580)
Trailer axle: 5150
Gross: 11,720

Base on Ram specs I have the following weight left over that can be added;
Steer axle: 480
Drive axle: 940
(Veh weight: 520)
(Combo weight: 2,180)
(Trailer weight: 3,080)

I estimate I will add 1,000 pounds of gear/food/etc to my trailer. I estimate the following will be added to my GVW; my family will be 350 added, 50 to hitch from trailer water and 120 from gear added to trailer (@.102% as calculated dry). This would put my GVW right at 7,100 which is in spec. Obviously I will be pushing the truck to it’s max but we are only weekend warriors going hopefully 5-10 times a year to places within a few hour drive. Any thoughts? Obviously for comfort I would upgrade truck but I would prefer not to.

estimated final specs:
Steer axle: 3595
Drive axel: 3505
GVW: 7,100
GCW: 13,521

anyone have any suggestions or advice? Anyone tow to max levels like this?
 

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cj7

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Did you weigh the truck before hitching? That would be useful.

Im sure a lot of folks tow in a very similar configuration, including me. As you suspect, your loaded tongue will likely be close to 1000# (as the TT advertised dry/tongue weights are always substantially lower than reality.)

what does the yellow sticker on the trailer say the trailer payload capacity is?

ps - nice camper! enjoy it!
 

Cr250Ram

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Did you weigh the truck before hitching? That would be useful.

Im sure a lot of folks tow in a very similar configuration, including me. As you suspect, your loaded tongue will likely be close to 1000# (as the TT advertised dry/tongue weights are always substantially lower than reality.)

what does the yellow sticker on the trailer say the trailer payload capacity is?

ps - nice camper! enjoy it!
I did a while back when leaving the dump. I recall having 1,100 lbs left over with me sitting in truck. That calculates to 6,000 lbs empty but with me (not the family tho) sitting in it. The trailers yellow sticker says 2265 lbs, its gvwr 7525.

Thank you for the compliment, im looking forward to showing my kids the joy of the wilderness.

what weights are you towing with yours? And how does it handle?
 
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cj7

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Truck has 1310 stickered payload. 5.7, 3.92, eTorque short bed crew.

Trailer advertised 7600 gross / 600 tongue / 1700 payload but at the scales ready to camp, its 6900 total, 1000 tongue w/heavy hitch. 29’ hitch ball to TT bumper ( Mesa Ridge 2504BH), 11’3” tall and as aerodynamic as a barn door. Did replace the cheapo Chinese tires with Goodyear Endurance E rated after 2k (added Dill TPMS then too), and was money well spent.

Using a EZLift Recurve R6 w/1000# bars. Very good WDH/anti-sway, and have received fantastic tech support.

very pleased with this rig towing. Do feel semis blowing by, but never any white knuckles in any situation yet. Have crossed the windy Bay Bridge many times, no worries, have done the NYC bridges (omg, truck drivers wouldn’t give an inch) no problem. Would like bigger truck brakes, but brake controller set at 9.0 seems to bring 13k to a stop well enough. A bit of yacht-ish up and down under the right conditions, but if I switch aero height to normal, helps compensate a little bit for the softly sprung/damped rear (that makes the normal ride so nice).

quite happy with this combination. Wouldn’t go much bigger, and do not need a 2500 at this level. Have towed my 16’ cargo trailer at 7k also, although that is more aero with a v nose and lower floor. Worked well. In fact, will pick future campers such that I do not need more than a 1500.
 

Cr250Ram

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Update;
First time fully loaded
Steer: 3520
Drive: 3560
Truck: 7080
Trailer: 6200
Gross: 13280
My *Guess*; trailer is 7,000 hitch at 750 at 10.7%
 

devildodge

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Update;
First time fully loaded
Steer: 3520
Drive: 3560
Truck: 7080
Trailer: 6200
Gross: 13280
My *Guess*; trailer is 7,000 hitch at 750 at 10.7%
Those numbers look great. Just under GVWR and just under GCWR.

That my friend is hiw to squeak every pound in.

Still plenty of axle capacity and having both nearly identical...means you still have tires at the front that can steer and stop.

Did you get the other 2 weighs.

1.Just truck.
2. With out WDH connected.

Just curious. Do not think you need them as that is about perfect.
 

Cr250Ram

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Those numbers look great. Just under GVWR and just under GCWR.

That my friend is hiw to squeak every pound in.

Still plenty of axle capacity and having both nearly identical...means you still have tires at the front that can steer and stop.

Did you get the other 2 weighs.

1.Just truck.
2. With out WDH connected.

Just curious. Do not think you need them as that is about perfect.
I hope to weight the truck with my family soon. We were ready to get along with our trip so I didn’t want to take the time to unhook the trailer. I do hope to run through a scale soon next time I take the family on a drive tho. I’ll be sure to update this thread
 

cj7

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Update;
First time fully loaded
Steer: 3520
Drive: 3560
Truck: 7080
Trailer: 6200
Gross: 13280
My *Guess*; trailer is 7,000 hitch at 750 at 10.7%
Good numbers. I bet your tongue is more like 900-950....
 

Willwork4truck

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Update;
First time fully loaded
Steer: 3520
Drive: 3560
Truck: 7080
Trailer: 6200
Gross: 13280
My *Guess*; trailer is 7,000 hitch at 750 at 10.7%
You are slightly low on TT tongue weight tho'. Shoot for 12-13%. Quite doable. You sound like you understand...
 

Dragonmaster13

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You're good to go on those numbers. Great job understanding the requirements and weights. Just be careful as over time when the kids grow you'll start hitting the max. You could look at taking off skid plates, relocating truck spare to trailer, and put the wife's purse in the trailer (know that one from experience at the limits of my 4th gen ;) ).
 

Cr250Ram

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You're good to go on those numbers. Great job understanding the requirements and weights. Just be careful as over time when the kids grow you'll start hitting the max. You could look at taking off skid plates, relocating truck spare to trailer, and put the wife's purse in the trailer (know that one from experience at the limits of my 4th gen ;) ).
😂😂😂
 

Cr250Ram

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I decided to share the spread sheet I made for my truck based on its 1,505 lbs payload door sticker. Hopefully this will help someone else understand their trucks capabilities better.


C93D5C2A-7B61-438B-B7BC-461730E181BC.png
 

Cr250Ram

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I have towed the trailer 4 times now long distance. My latest tow was going up to Tahoe forest off 80 and Emigrant Gap exit. I “think” the grade was 6%. I stayed at 55 and made it up to 70 a few times to pass. The truck was towing the trailer in my first post of this thread, 60 gal water tank was full, family in truck, large generator in trailer, I was fully loaded for a 4 night dry camp experience. The truck did MUCH better than I thought it would up and down the grade. I wouldn’t go heavier than I am at by much tho. I would probably go for a heavy duty if I towed this set up for often, especially if I was doing it full time. I plan/hope to take the trailer out 4-6 times a year and this truck will be good for that amount. I thought the 3.21 would limit me but after running the numbers the limiting factor on 1500s is their payload, not their GCWR. The 3.92 seem to only be helpful if you plan on putting bigger tires on. This 8 speed never heated up during my towing and simply downshifted when need to pass. I am happy with the 3.21s especially since it was $5,000 cheaper than the truck I was planning on buying that had 3.92s.
 

5thGenLoco

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I have towed the trailer 4 times now long distance. My latest tow was going up to Tahoe forest off 80 and Emigrant Gap exit. I “think” the grade was 6%. I stayed at 55 and made it up to 70 a few times to pass. The truck was towing the trailer in my first post of this thread, 60 gal water tank was full, family in truck, large generator in trailer, I was fully loaded for a 4 night dry camp experience. The truck did MUCH better than I thought it would up and down the grade. I wouldn’t go heavier than I am at by much tho. I would probably go for a heavy duty if I towed this set up for often, especially if I was doing it full time. I plan/hope to take the trailer out 4-6 times a year and this truck will be good for that amount. I thought the 3.21 would limit me but after running the numbers the limiting factor on 1500s is their payload, not their GCWR. The 3.92 seem to only be helpful if you plan on putting bigger tires on. This 8 speed never heated up during my towing and simply downshifted when need to pass. I am happy with the 3.21s especially since it was $5,000 cheaper than the truck I was planning on buying that had 3.92s.
Nice, that stretch is a good test for sure. Did you fill the water prior to departure due to dry camping?

That spreadsheet is very helpful too; mine has the same payload and gearing.
 

Cr250Ram

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Nice, that stretch is a good test for sure. Did you fill the water prior to departure due to dry camping?

That spreadsheet is very helpful too; mine has the same payload and gearing.
Im glad it was helpful.
Yes it was full of 60 gallons of water for the whole trip, including the downhill return until we dumped in Sacramento.
 

Willwork4truck

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Dang that was a bit o' weight for the 3.21 but as others have said, RAM/FCA got that gearing very well spec'd for the truck.
While I couldn't wholeheartedly recommend others do the same, if you limit to your stated 4-6 trips and watch your speed/temps then why not. My views of our trucks capabilities have changed over the decades and with the exception of grossly overloading (which you didn't seem to be), as long as speeds are kept down and there is allowance for braking maneuvers (distances, road conditions), you should be ok. That is a tough pass to climb and go back down, been there...
 

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