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The OFFICIAL Answer......... MOPAR Front Upper Control Arm (UCA)

Has anyone used the MOPAR UCA's (68323530AA and 68323531AA) on a 4x2 1500? I ordered them to be installed with me 5100's, but i've been given information that these are only for the 4x4 versions.
 
Well it's not the hitting that has me worried.

My thought is if my UCA's are able to flex enough to hit the spring that would lead me to believe that my stock UCA's are good for the amount of lift I have. In other words, I still have a ton of flexibility by my factory UCA's. So my thought is I don't think I would need to upgrade to the Mopar ones as of the amount of movement still offered by what I have. I'm not a cheap man, don't get me wrong, I love upgrading things on my vehicles regardless of needing them haha. But I'm just curiously thinking out loud that are people changing their UCA strictly because of the angle or is it because of the flexibility being maxed out at a much earlier spot? Example if my downward droop was only an inch and I could tell that my UCA's were the culprit at that point I would understand that I need UCA's, but if the factory ones are allowing my UCA's to still touch the springs before getting maxed out I should be good right? haha

Hope that makes sense. If it doesn't well dang my bad, I think too much. :D

No makes sense! you have to think about downward travel flex too, which is where many ball joints will fail and pop out. Is your ball joint now limiting travel at the downward stroke of your shock? Not sure we’d be able to tell thy unless you had a go pro. I’ve seen so many ram ball joints fail when leveled on these trucks I would venture to say extra travel in any direction is a no brainer.
 
All in all it is probably a good idea to change your upper control arms as I did to Rough Country along with a Leveling struts,. When it all comes down to it, do you really want to be driving around on a UCA that is plastic with a metal cap on top of it.
A friend of mine snapped one offroading and it wasn't fun to fix in the woods...
 
No makes sense! you have to think about downward travel flex too, which is where many ball joints will fail and pop out. Is your ball joint now limiting travel at the downward stroke of your shock? Not sure we’d be able to tell thy unless you had a go pro. I’ve seen so many ram ball joints fail when leveled on these trucks I would venture to say extra travel in any direction is a no brainer.
Makes sense. I'm glad I don't offroad my truck at all right now, but by beginning of the year I plan to upgrade UCA and install some coilovers as well :D
 
All in all it is probably a good idea to change your upper control arms as I did to Rough Country along with a Leveling struts,. When it all comes down to it, do you really want to be driving around on a UCA that is plastic with a metal cap on top of it.
A friend of mine snapped one offroading and it wasn't fun to fix in the woods...
Yeah when I upgrade I'm probably not going to go Mopar. I want some tubular ones that will hold up some abuse and stress of the bigger tires.
 
Yeah when I upgrade I'm probably not going to go Mopar. I want some tubular ones that will hold up some abuse and stress of the bigger tires.
Check Out Rough Country , you wont be disappointed.
 
Can't go wrong with ready lift uca's. And yes they work on 5th generation. One ton ball joints!

Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk
 
i went back and got another alignment and my steering is still sloppy as heck but all numbers are in spec and ive gone underneath and made sure leveling kit and everything was torqued down
Ihad the same issue for a month with my brand new rebel, was like that when I got it. Ok so here's your answer. Dealer called crhysler found out they were aligning it to a regular factory ram without the factory 1 inch lift. They need to take that into account and get the right numbers for the lift to be accurate. Mine goes straight as an arrow with 2 inch top hat on strut.
 
Just a data point but my factory UCAs began to fail shortly after a 2" level. I do a fair amount of off road driving so that probably contributed to it. I installed the MOPAR lift UCAs and have had no issues in approximately 5000 miles.
I've had my 2binch top hats on my rebel since new and I have 13000 miles now and they look brand new still.
 
I had the 2" Mopar lift installed, my mechanic did not install the UCA's at first because he said they were exactly the same. His logic was to keep the ones that came in the lift for when I needed them. I was uneasy because of reading all the Ball Joint issues that stem from lifting these RAMs. My UCA's had the air ride nipple on them, so maybe they were the "updated" UCA's. Long story longer, I had my mechanic put in the UCA's that came with the lift because I believed there had to be something different. i.e. more travel with the ball joint. My mechanic was kind enough to throw the UCA's in, and took measurements of the ball joint movement. He stated there was absolutely no difference between the two UCA's. Pretty frustrating RAM...
 
Does anyone notice if the Mopar UCA has running issues with wider tires (285+) on positive offset wheels (like factory +19mm wheels)?

Asking because I heard many aftermarket UCAs need negative offset wheels to clear.
 
Does anyone notice if the Mopar UCA has running issues with wider tires (285+) on positive offset wheels (like factory +19mm wheels)?

Asking because I heard many aftermarket UCAs need negative offset wheels to clear.
Just had to replace my UCAs to to ball joint failure. Ordered RC OE spec and they groved the tires which are 295/65-20 (35x11.8) on factory wheel so tried another UCA and they rubbed as well. Had to go back to the factory ones which clear. Chrysler told my mechanic the new polymer arms are a lot stronger than the old one so will have to see. To run aftermarket on bigger tires, going to have to run smaller tire or change wheels to a zero or neg offset
 

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