Troop2865
Active Member
Yes, getting the struts back in with ORP and 2.5 inch spacer is a royal pain. I needed a big pry bar and second set of hands.
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/4×4-off-road-package.949/page-4#post-95329So if I'm following you correctly, The distance from the lower mounting bolt center line to the spring perch is the same, The rod is a little longer and the spring is a little taller? It was PITA squeezing the non ORP assembly back in place with a 2.5" spacer on top. The ORP strut assembly must be a royal PITA to get back in there. I'm guessing the compete strut assy is about 5/8"-3/4" longer than the non ORP version.
I keep forgetting to ask this question, but I'm wondering why I'm not seeing the use of spring compressors to keep the strut slightly compressed either when it's removed or when it's put back in. It looks like there's room to slap a set of compressors on the spring while it's compressed (by jacking up the lower control arm a little) which would help give you an inch or two when removing, and the same when putting it back in.Yes, getting the struts back in with ORP and 2.5 inch spacer is a royal pain. I needed a big pry bar and second set of hands.
I keep forgetting to ask this question, but I'm wondering why I'm not seeing the use of spring compressors to keep the strut slightly compressed either when it's removed or when it's put back in. It looks like there's room to slap a set of compressors on the spring while it's compressed (by jacking up the lower control arm a little) which would help give you an inch or two when removing, and the same when putting it back in.
I did try to use spring compressors. The way the strut tower is shaped it made it almost impossible to turn the strut assembly to line up the top bolts. I ended up taking the spring compressors off because for me they were a pain. Others may have used them with success.
Forgot to point out, on the trucks I was under over the weekend (checking out part numbers), all of them had some type of cant to the dust cover (most of them had the dust cover touching the strut on the inboard side) just like yours, so that's a factory condition, ORP and non-ORP. It's possible that the natural angles of the strut top causes that. It's possible with a lift, that the angle is exasperated enough to cause it to push a little harder against the strut.
As well, I just watched some youtube videos on 2019 front installs, and saw the same thing. When they were in the truck, there was a cant, when they were out, there was no cant.
Have you noticed if it has gotten worse? It seems to have gotten really bad really quick (over a few days, right?), I would think you'd notice additional wear very quickly.Well that's pretty interesting. Thanks for the info!
Have you noticed if it has gotten worse? It seems to have gotten really bad really quick (over a few days, right?), I would think you'd notice additional wear very quickly.
Now there is a solid band of bare metal. Last pic I took there were still streaks of paint mixed in. However the "grooves" don't feel very pronounced.Have you noticed if it has gotten worse? It seems to have gotten really bad really quick (over a few days, right?), I would think you'd notice additional wear very quickly.
Yeah, I see that. I'm wondering if all you need to do it jack it up, reach in there with a knife, and score the boot about 1" vertical on the left and right side of the wear to alleviate the pressure enough to stop the wear.Now there is a solid band of bare metal. Last pic I took there were still streaks of paint mixed in. However the "grooves" don't feel very pronounced.
One thing I also note in both of the OP's pictures in this thread is how off-center the shock body is inside that coil spring. I've crawled under a few trucks to get part numbers lately, and watched my share of videos, and I don't recall ever seeing anything where the shock wasn't pretty much dead center. But in both the pics here, the coil is pretty close to the shock body on one side compared to the other. Curious.