"Shift to P then Desired Gear" Error

[Paul laeven]

Hallo , i have the same problem with my Ram 1500 huilt in2020 on LPG , it usually happend When breking in a bend , i also notice that the A/T shifts roughly When I get this message . My dealer connected the Ram to the Witech but no error messages were recorded . They have no explanation or solution for it .

 

[Ruben-Ram5th 1500]

Hey everyone.

I have a 2019 Ram four-door with approx. 44k miles. I had it for about 6 months when I got this alert for the first time. I was coming to a stop light, and the truck dings at me, gives me the error code "Shift to P then Desired Gear" and shifts itself into neutral. Once I come to a stop, I can then put it back into Drive and continue driving. This only happened once then so I let it slide at a quirk. (see picture below of notification)

Fast forward to now. The error code comes up at least 4 times per week, sometimes multiple times in a day. Always happens when I'm coming to a stop. I do notice that the truck seems to shift very hard when accelerating from a full stop or slowing to stop. It's going into the shop on Monday to get this looked at, but has anyone else experienced this? I'm assuming it's a transmission issue.
View attachment 100751

I had the same issue, and cleaning the throttle body has fixed the issue so far.
It’s happening because the butterfly in the throttle body is dirty and it is sticking on the closed position. So let’s say you are driving at 25mph, you are coming to a stop sign and let go the pedal, the butterfly holds on the close position. While the tranny is doing the downshifts, the throttle still is on the closed until the tranny gets in 1st gear, then the butterfly is supposed to gradually get in to idle position, but since the butterfly it is sticking to the sides, it releases rapidly giving the impression of a hard down shift. But if you pay close attention, it actually launches the truck forward, even your a/c blower revs up, and it happens after the truck has been stopped for hours.
I figured this out because it did it so often that I already knew when it was about to happen, so I was testing by putting the truck in neutral before the “hard shift” happen and I heard that the engine was holding low rpms and then was doing a hard rev.
With the truck off, ignition off, and cold. I removed the clamp holding the air intake at the throttle body, disconnected the sensor on the intake tube right above the clamp, disconnected the plug going to the throttle body, removed the 4 bolts holding the throttle body down, sprayed it with throttle body cleaner, wiped it clean, and reinstalled everything back. I didn’t have to do relearn

Hey everyone.

I have a 2019 Ram four-door with approx. 44k miles. I had it for about 6 months when I got this alert for the first time. I was coming to a stop light, and the truck dings at me, gives me the error code "Shift to P then Desired Gear" and shifts itself into neutral. Once I come to a stop, I can then put it back into Drive and continue driving. This only happened once then so I let it slide at a quirk. (see picture below of notification)

Fast forward to now. The error code comes up at least 4 times per week, sometimes multiple times in a day. Always happens when I'm coming to a stop. I do notice that the truck seems to shift very hard when accelerating from a full stop or slowing to stop. It's going into the shop on Monday to get this looked at, but has anyone else experienced this? I'm assuming it's a transmission issue.
View attachment 100751

Dirty throttle body. I removed mine, sprayed it with throttle body cleaner, wiped it clean, and reinstalled. No relearn or anything like it. Fixed my issue.

 

[Hookie]

Joining the crowd! 2020 RAM 4X4, truck threw "shift to park" message while braking then leached forward and tapped the vehicle in front of me! Luckily the other driver didn't make a stink about it! Sounds like yet another trip to the dealer for yet another issue and to be told "couldn't replicate the problem", so FRUSTRATING!!!!!

 

[DelmonicoRed34]

I had the same issue, and cleaning the throttle body has fixed the issue so far.
It’s happening because the butterfly in the throttle body is dirty and it is sticking on the closed position. So let’s say you are driving at 25mph, you are coming to a stop sign and let go the pedal, the butterfly holds on the close position. While the tranny is doing the downshifts, the throttle still is on the closed until the tranny gets in 1st gear, then the butterfly is supposed to gradually get in to idle position, but since the butterfly it is sticking to the sides, it releases rapidly giving the impression of a hard down shift. But if you pay close attention, it actually launches the truck forward, even your a/c blower revs up, and it happens after the truck has been stopped for hours.
I figured this out because it did it so often that I already knew when it was about to happen, so I was testing by putting the truck in neutral before the “hard shift” happen and I heard that the engine was holding low rpms and then was doing a hard rev.
With the truck off, ignition off, and cold. I removed the clamp holding the air intake at the throttle body, disconnected the sensor on the intake tube right above the clamp, disconnected the plug going to the throttle body, removed the 4 bolts holding the throttle body down, sprayed it with throttle body cleaner, wiped it clean, and reinstalled everything back. I didn’t have to do relearn

Dirty throttle body. I removed mine, sprayed it with throttle body cleaner, wiped it clean, and reinstalled. No relearn or anything like it. Fixed my issue.

Hi Ruben,

Did this indeed fix your issue 100% and has not duplicated since you cleaned the throttle body?

I am going through the same issues as everyone on this thread. Dealer has not been able to replicate once and said it was the battery.

 

[DelmonicoRed34]

Just wanted to give everyone an update from my end - the issue is STILL happening. Took it to the dealership a total of 2 times for this issue alone and they didn't do jack. Always "we couldn't recreate your issue". This happened twice yesterday just coming home from work. Straight highway, with the code happening when coming to red lights, typically lights that are red (begin braking) but turn green as I approach. @Basen71 explained it best by saying "Rolling to a stop. I feel a rough shift and it “pop” out of gear then the display to shift to P then desired gear flashes with a few audible beeps and the D is flashing above the shift knob."

@RamCares this issue is going to get me or someone else killed. Try crossing a busy highway when this Error throws and you have to quickly shift to Park then Drive to avoid getting T-Boned by oncoming traffic. Do better.

Oh, and to add to my frustration, apparently my 4WD doesn't work. Actuator or a wire harness, TBD. But that's for another post.

What was the final verdict from the dealer? Or from Ram Cares? I am going through the same with my ‘19 Big Horn 2WD, dealer can’t replicate. I left the dealer and 30 miles later before I got home it did it again. Service director had previously driven the truck and it never happened ti him. He put 50 miles in a 3 day span. This is such a frustrating issue and dangerous.

@RamCares

 

[Ruben-Ram5th 1500]

Hi Ruben,

Did this indeed fix your issue 100% and has not duplicated since you cleaned the throttle body?

I am going through the same issues as everyone on this thread. Dealer has not been able to replicate once and said it was the battery.

No issues so far. The scanner can’t see this issue, so instead of doing a proper diagnosis, they start throwing parts at it.
Not sure if you are mechanically inclined, but I would try cleaning the throttle body, you don’t loose anything and it is very ease to do. A new battery is over $200.

 

[bigwidge]

No issues so far. The scanner can’t see this issue, so instead of doing a proper diagnosis, they start throwing parts at it.
Not sure if you are mechanically inclined, but I would try cleaning the throttle body, you don’t loose anything and it is very ease to do. A new battery is over $200.

Thank you for sharing. I'm going to try this tonight.

 

[Vulpes]

Thank you for sharing. I'm going to try this tonight.

I agree with Ruben-Ram5th 1500 on cleaning the throttle body. I was getting the drop into neutral fairly regularly, then on some advice I got on here, cleaned mine well over a year ago, and it has not dropped into neutral since. It wasn't even very dirty IMO.

Although I've heard from others, that this did not fix their problem, so I dunno.

Hope it works!

 

[gian maria]

Ciao ragazzi vi scrivo dall' ITALIA ed il mio fantastico RAM 2019 hemi limited aveva lo stesso problema (andata in folle in frenata) e l'ho risolto brillantemente seguendo il consiglio della pulizia del corpo farfallato. Consiglio di insistere nello spruzzare il liquido anche se il motore si affoga e si spegne durante la procedura( va fatto con il motore in moto altrimenti non serve a niente).Una persona sarà al volante e controllerà l'accelleratore cercando di mantenere il motore sui 1500/1800 rpm mentre un'altra persona spruzzerà il liquido ben all'interno del corpo farfallato.Come dicevo, se il motore si affoga e si spegne,niente paura ,riavviare e continuare a spruzzare in modo che si puliscano bene anche gli iniettori.Presumo che chi ha provato ma non ha avuto risultati si sia fermato troppo presto

 

[Ruben-Ram5th 1500]

Ciao ragazzi vi scrivo dall' ITALIA ed il mio fantastico RAM 2019 hemi limited aveva lo stesso problema (andata in folle in frenata) e l'ho risolto brillantemente seguendo il consiglio della pulizia del corpo farfallato. Consiglio di insistere nello spruzzare il liquido anche se il motore si affoga e si spegne durante la procedura( va fatto con il motore in moto altrimenti non serve a niente).Una persona sarà al volante e controllerà l'accelleratore cercando di mantenere il motore sui 1500/1800 rpm mentre un'altra persona spruzzerà il liquido ben all'interno del corpo farfallato.Come dicevo, se il motore si affoga e si spegne,niente paura ,riavviare e continuare a spruzzare in modo che si puliscano bene anche gli iniettori.Presumo che chi ha provato ma non ha avuto risultati si sia fermato troppo presto

I wouldn’t clean the throttle body with the engine running. This could probably damage your cats and who knows what else.

 

[bigwidge]

Sorry to revive an old thread- but this issue is still ongoing for me. Cleaning the throttle body makes my truck run GREAT for a day, but the issue quickly returns. Since my previous post on February 6th, I have cleaned the throttle body a total of 5 times. I remove the hose coming from the air filter, clean the butterfly valve with Throttle Body Cleaner and wiping all areas with a towel/workjing the valve back and forth, and then put it all back together. Are there any other suggestions I can try? Should I be looking at replacing the throttle body itself? It's happening more frequently now. I'm talking 1-3 times for each daily commute (20 min drive), when I am approaching a stop - typically one that's at an incline.

 

[Snekpete]

Should I be looking at replacing the throttle body itself?

Yes.

 

[N7GZN]

Have you replaced the pcv valve? The pcv valve would affect the amount of idle air entering the engine when the TB butterfly is fully closed. The pcv is underneath the engine dress cover on the passenger side of the intake.

 

[bigwidge]

Have you replaced the pcv valve? The pcv valve would affect the amount of idle air entering the engine when the TB butterfly is fully closed. The pcv is underneath the engine dress cover on the passenger side of the intake.

No I have not! I’ll look into it!

 

[ic3man5]

I just happened to come across this post. Worth checking intake manifold bolts also. They tend to come loose on me roughly every oil change interval and will cause performance issues.

I've been trying to tune this transmission with downshifts (unsuccessfully so far) and I can tell you if it senses the shift is taking longer than it should it will "slam" to make it happen. This transmission seems to not like fluid temperatures above 170F. Haven't decided if it's old fluid or bad factory tuning or both yet.

My Chevy 6L80 I had to remove the thermostat on the transmission to get reliable shifts. I'm convinced the fluid viscosity is too thin at the higher temperatures.

 

[Snekpete]

This is a preliminary report:
I just did the 25,000 mile oil change. I replaced the throttle body with a new one and calibrated it. Easier and quicker than changing the oil filter. It's made a big difference so far. Much smoother starts from a stop. No hiccups around sharp turns. Better and smoother slow speed throttle response. The old throttle body was not dirty at all. But it had a significant amount of lash. The valve could be moved maybe one sixteenth from gear wear. I believe that there is quality control issue with this part. I will report back after a thousand miles but so far it feels like a new truck! Thanks @Vulpes!

 

[Snekpete]

After a few days I can say that the new throttle body made a significant improvement, it was obvious from the very first drive. It also got me to pay way more attention to my driving habits. My foot spends ninety percent of its time in the first quarter inch or so of accelerator movement. Even on the highway at 70mph I'm no more than a quarter of an inch into the pedal travel. If the throttle body does not respond smoothly in that first range, or if it gets worn and slack, drivability issues will arise.

One hiccup remains. On a slow, sharp left turn feathering in the throttle results in a back/forth drivetrain lash. This only happens if I touch the brake a tad entering the turn. My analysis suggests that the brake tap engages the regenerative charging, further slowing the engine and vehicle. Then, almost immediately adding a bit of accelerator while the MGU is still in generator mode causes a bit of a mix up with the engine computer and probably software. The MGU is dragging, the engine is starting to accelerate, and then the MGU switches to no drag or even to power mode and a back-and-forth surge results. If I could figure out a way to turn off regenerative braking, I could test my theory.

 

[Vulpes]

This is a preliminary report:
I just did the 25,000 mile oil change. I replaced the throttle body with a new one and calibrated it. Easier and quicker than changing the oil filter. It's made a big difference so far. Much smoother starts from a stop. No hiccups around sharp turns. Better and smoother slow speed throttle response. The old throttle body was not dirty at all. But it had a significant amount of lash. The valve could be moved maybe one sixteenth from gear wear. I believe that there is quality control issue with this part. I will report back after a thousand miles but so far it feels like a new truck! Thanks @Vulpes!

You're welcome! I was just passing on what another member found. So my truck has almost 80,000 miles, a bit more than 25,000 miles and now you got my curiosity going, so I'll have to check the lash on my throttle body. Did you check the lash by manually pressing on the butterfly valve until it showed some resistance?

Also, for the ETC relearn, did you perform that by just pressing accelerator to the floor key on/engine off and waiting, or was it performed with an Autel or similar computer?

 

[Snekpete]

You're welcome! I was just passing on what another member found. So my truck has almost 80,000 miles, a bit more than 25,000 miles and now you got my curiosity going, so I'll have to check the lash on my throttle body. Did you check the lash by manually pressing on the butterfly valve until it showed some resistance?

Also, for the ETC relearn, did you perform that by just pressing accelerator to the floor key on/engine off and waiting, or was it performed with an Autel or similar computer?

With the intake snorkel off you can manually move the valve and check for lash. IMO, for $200, it's worth replacing.

I have always calibrated the TB by putting the ignition in RUN without starting the motor. After everything finishes booting, slowly depress the accelerator, hold at max for a second and then slowly release. If the intake snorkel is off, you can watch the throttle body valve respond.

 

[bigwidge]

With the intake snorkel off you can manually move the valve and check for lash. IMO, for $200, it's worth replacing.

I have always calibrated the TB by putting the ignition in RUN without starting the motor. After everything finishes booting, slowly depress the accelerator, hold at max for a second and then slowly release. If the intake snorkel is off, you can watch the throttle body valve respond.

Would you mind sharing where you purchased the replacement throttle body? I’m going to try this next.