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Rust protection and ceramic coating, is it worth it?

Rammit

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My new truck is here and I was planning on doing a ceramic coating to help protect it. I am in and out of steel mills and go through some nasty black water and sludge. I’d like to protect the truck the best I can. I got a quote from Ziebart for $1799. This includes rust proofing, undercoating, ceramic coating and interior scotch guarding and leather conditioner. If it works well, it could be money well spent. However, it is a substantial cost and I am wondering if the long term benefit is real. I was wondering if anyone else has had good or bad real world results and opinions.
 

Agitated

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This subject can be worse than discussing politics or religion.

Others will disagree and jump up and down, but the simple fact is marketing is a very powerful tool and many people believe what they read and take it as gospel. If you were to take some time and find out factual information from a paint expert you will find that there is no such thing as a magic coating for your exterior clear coat paint. If you want it to appear polished, wax it a couple times a year. There's just no such thing. Remember a few years ago all the rage was to use products on your car that replenish the natural oils in the paint? That's laughable. If these oils (there aren't any) can dissipate and be replenished then the clear coat is no good. Now everyone wants to "seal" a clear coat that is already sealed. If it isn't sealed, then the clearcoat is bad.
There is already corrosion protection on your vehicle body panels, no need to Ziebart. Once the Ziebart undercoating gets old it cracks. Stuff gets in the cracks, and exacerbates any corrosion. These products just make people feel good and placebo takes over. That's my thoughts, you can do your own research and find out for yourself.

You can buy some scotch guard and leather conditioner for your seats at walmart and save a bunch of money.
 

356

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I agree with Agitated. I lived in the rust-belt, iron ore area of Minnesota for many years, and once the Ziebarted trucks started rusting, they were worse than any others. I bought a "hunting truck" that was rusted so bad the floors were plywood and the sides gone The only thing NOT rusted out was the Ziebart sticker on the tailgate. Save your money and keep it clean. Wax it twice per year. The car washes that do the underside will help. Get the wheel liners for the rear if they were not already installed on the truck.

My new cars in the rust-belt went 10 years with no rust. Plus, I heard nothing but complaints about those with the Ziebart warranty who did get rust.

Scotch guard is cheap...you can do the whole interior for $15 and 20-30 minutes of careful spraying.
 

troutspinner

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FWIW, I am going to have ceramic coating applied to my truck. The only reason is that it is black and I want to try and prevent swirl marks from continued washing. My thought is, the ceramic coating will make it easier to wash and will last longer than me waxing it every 6 months.

I would not expect ceramic coating to “protect” your truck from scratches or environmental hazards.
 

dutchman187

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This subject can be worse than discussing politics or religion.

Others will disagree and jump up and down, but the simple fact is marketing is a very powerful tool and many people believe what they read and take it as gospel. If you were to take some time and find out factual information from a paint expert you will find that there is no such thing as a magic coating for your exterior clear coat paint. If you want it to appear polished, wax it a couple times a year. There's just no such thing. Remember a few years ago all the rage was to use products on your car that replenish the natural oils in the paint? That's laughable. If these oils (there aren't any) can dissipate and be replenished then the clear coat is no good. Now everyone wants to "seal" a clear coat that is already sealed. If it isn't sealed, then the clearcoat is bad.
There is already corrosion protection on your vehicle body panels, no need to Ziebart. Once the Ziebart undercoating gets old it cracks. Stuff gets in the cracks, and exacerbates any corrosion. These products just make people feel good and placebo takes over. That's my thoughts, you can do your own research and find out for yourself.

You can buy some scotch guard and leather conditioner for your seats at walmart and save a bunch of money.


I'll agree with this for the most part. Marketing is indeed a huge tool. I wrote the following on a prior thread regarding ceramic coatings:

One thing to keep in mind is what it isn't. It will not save you from hard dings or more serious scratches. Even the pros version normally offers around 9H scratch resistance, which is the same as a glass tempered screen protector on my phone. I'm easy on my phone, but it has scratches on that protector. Chemical etching can still occur. It'll definitely add a layer of protection to your clear coat and a sacrificial coat sort to speak (same reason I have the glass on my phone). So it is definitely nice, but beware of some marketing hype out there.

It will certainly allow for your car to sheet rain more easily, but you will still have to care for it properly to ensure longevity. Again, you will have a little more leeway here with a professional version compared to consumer grade ceramics or plain sealants. You might not need to be a two bucket grit guards and boar brush fanatic like myself, but you can't just let the salt and crud sit for months on end. It's a fine product, but not a miracle.

The nice thing about a properly prepped and sealed vehicle (commercial or consumer grade) is it makes keeping it that way so much easier. You can see from the pictures posted in this thread how beautiful a properly corrected and detailed truck looks. Once the hard work has been done, you can start to finish wash and dry in less than 30 minutes. That includes the two bucket wash, dryer (I use a leaf blower that only is used on my cars), and a booster gloss/sealant/wax depending on what my base layers are.

If you want to obsess over products to keep your truck looking better than it looked on the lot, check out some detailing forums like Auto geek. I've spent an incredible amount of money there since I bought my Camry five years ago. Lol, sexy family sedan, coming through!

I'm personally going to add a Cquart UK 3.0 coating to me truck when it arrives. But since I'm doing it, it will cost me about 100 dollars total. It will last 2 years and I'll do it again. I'll add to that one small comment on the scotchguard. I personally think there are better consumer level productions available. Check out 303 Fabric Guard for example. I just purchased 303 Leather cleaner and conditioner as well, but there are plenty of good brands on that front.
 

dutchman187

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Tell us how it wont prevent scratches or environmental hazards but will somehow prevent swirl marks.

Not to answer for him, but the answer is pretty straightforward. There are different levels of swirl marks. This helps prevent against light swirl marks, as it is a bit harder than clear in general. Same would be true of very light "scratches" but not really against what most people would consider a scratch. It won't help against moderate to deep swirl marks caused by dirty wash media, improper wash techniques, etc. Chemical etching absolutely can still occur in coatings. So basically it is all a matter of degree in what it will help add protection against.
 

Rammit

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Thanks for the feedback. I have been researching this and it seems like there are arguments both ways. My current truck is 8 yrs old with no visa me rust and no I didn’t do any Ziebarting. The last couple years my job has brought me through some unbelievably filthy places (google zug island). Want the best chance to keep this truck looking good. I am leaning toward saving the money and buying some new detail products.
 

356

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My 2012 Ram 1500 was a farm truck. as is my new Ram. It has no dealer or aftermarket protectants. I waxed it annually during ownership, and washed it regularly. It was driven in rain, snow and mud. Here in Missouri, they salt the roads., so 25 of the just over 30 miles to work (each way) was on salted roads. The other five were on dirt/gravel roads, so keeping it clean and free of dust was impossible. When I sold it, the dealer offered above KKB Trade because the truck looked "so good." The 7 year old paint looked great! The interior was very good. I don't have dogs or kids, at home, so that likely helped. At night the truck was always parked in the garage/barn.

My point is, keeping the finish looking good is possible without the extra's. I do agree some colors are easier than others to keep clean and looking good. Swirl marks can be prevented by proper polishing. I used clay prior to waxing.

The OP asked "any thoughts on this." Mine are, use the money for some good car care products--that will set you back about $100 and will last 5 years. Invest the balance of what you would have spent in the market, and when it comes time to trade the truck in, you'll be ahead of the game by a huge margin.
 

drsubie

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I have to mirror the good advice that's already been given; no need to spend a lot of $ buying "ceramic coating"--it's a truck afterall! I have used CQuartz UK on some of my other cars--and it's debatable how good it works--I certainly didn't notice dirt and grime "not sticking"; here in the Pacific NW, it's rainy 8 mos out of the year, so cars get pretty dirty and grimy regardless. Maybe if I lived in southern Cali or the desert, my experience w/ CQuartz would be better...
 

Neurobit

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Not to answer for him, but the answer is pretty straightforward. There are different levels of swirl marks. This helps prevent against light swirl marks, as it is a bit harder than clear in general. Same would be true of very light "scratches" but not really against what most people would consider a scratch. It won't help against moderate to deep swirl marks caused by dirty wash media, improper wash techniques, etc. Chemical etching absolutely can still occur in coatings. So basically it is all a matter of degree in what it will help add protection against.

Yep, totally correct. Looks like we have the same OCD...

BTW, cQuarz UK is among the best coatings you can buy. I may do it in the future, but in the meanwhile I've found Hydrosilex which so far has been fantastic (applied like a detailer spray).

Cheers,
 

dutchman187

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Yep, totally correct. Looks like we have the same OCD...

BTW, cQuarz UK is among the best coatings you can buy. I may do it in the future, but in the meanwhile I've found Hydrosilex which so far has been fantastic (applied like a detailer spray).

Cheers,

Hydrosilex is pretty amazing. I have something similar in Mckees 37 hydro blue Si02 coating. You can't beat the ease of use of these type of products.
 

RAM 4times

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i have never done any thing other than waxing my truck many times a year, and keeping the leather seats clean with protection gels. my opinion, is what you are asking would be a waste of money.
 

Neurobit

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Hydrosilex is pretty amazing. I have something similar in Mckees 37 hydro blue Si02 coating. You can't beat the ease of use of these type of products.
To answer Rammit's question. IDK about the undercoating, but regarding ceramics, dutchman is right on the money.

You can also go a cheaper route by sealing the paint with an inexpensive sealant like Meguiar's M21. Seriously good product, and it's about 17 bucks @ Amazon. I been using it for years, and each coat should easily last about 3-4 months. Spend a little more and go with Mckees 37 or Hydrosilex. These are like spray on waxes, so ease of use is key. Very hydrophobic, which I can confirm helps the truck stay cleaner longer, and even if they lasted less than the 6-8 months advertised, you could apply this once a month or so since it's so user friendly.

Many options out there.


Here are some pics of M21 coat that was about 6 or 7 weeks old at the time. IMG_4459.jpeg IMG_4457.jpeg IMG_4442.jpeg
 

dutchman187

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To answer Rammit's question. IDK about the undercoating, but regarding ceramics, dutchman is right on the money.

You can also go a cheaper route by sealing the paint with an inexpensive sealant like Meguiar's M21. Seriously good product, and it's about 17 bucks @ Amazon. I been using it for years, and each coat should easily last about 3-4 months. Spend a little more and go with Mckees 37 or Hydrosilex. These are like spray on waxes, so ease of use is key. Very hydrophobic, which I can confirm helps the truck stay cleaner longer, and even if they lasted less than the 6-8 months advertised, you could apply this once a month or so since it's so user friendly.

Many options out there.


Here are some pics of M21 coat that was about 6 or 7 weeks old at the time. View attachment 4564 View attachment 4565 View attachment 4566
Beautiful truck. But I'm also admiring your detailing cart. :p Very handy.
 

Agitated

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How can you seal something like paint that isn't porous? When that question gets answered with science and proof, and not marketing, then it'd be easier to not roll my eyes at this subject.
 

Neurobit

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How can you seal something like paint that isn't porous? When that question gets answered with science and proof, and not marketing, then it'd be easier to not roll my eyes at this subject.

Well... I'm pretty sure it is porous at microscopic level. Doesn't really matter what they call it.

Paint sealants, do make paint more hydrophobic, which in turn makes it easier to wash (stuff like bugs and dirt come off a lot easier), and therefore keep clean longer.
That's not marketing, it's verifiable and works for me. Only you can decide if that's something you want or not.

Cheers,
 

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